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 SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 24th, 2011 at 04:27 PM |
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So that, when I do my engine next year sometime, it'll mean less work to get the current engine out and the new one in.
But you're right Brass Munky & waveman1500, it isn't really necessary unless I was planning on taking the engine out and so forth, every
weekend. Which I won't be doing.
I'm curious about your bug, those T-bars in your signature, are they legal in Adelaide?
Also, say I want to get Zelda's stance, well, lower. What needs to go into Zelda to get her say, 2" lower all round?
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 24th, 2011 at 04:51 PM |
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Look at what found it's way onto Zelda!
I'm just about to take her out for a quick trip around the block. Hopefully she holds up and nothing goes while driving...
Will report back once I am back!
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Joel
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| posted on August 24th, 2011 at 04:53 PM |
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Hope you tightened up that B+ wire before you start up.
Thats Live all the time, might wanna get a rubber boot for it.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by waveman1500
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Brass Munky
Why are you cutting the rear valance?
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Amen to this! You have more important things to worry about at the moment. Removable valances are for drag cars, unless you're going to have the
engine out every weekend then you really don't need one. Keep up the good work!
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I used to think like that once, till I actually did it to my own bug.
It's one of the most sensible and logical modifications, they should have come from the factory like it same as Kombis did.
You don't actually cut it, just drill out the spot welds and grinding off a couple of tack welds, same as replacing the apron only you dont weld it
back on, bolts in place instead.
all easily reversible and is not even visibly different.
Has far more purposes than just easing engine removal.
Makes replacing the engine bay seal a 5 min job without removing the engine and muffler replacement is alot easier too as is removing the crank
pulley.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 24th, 2011 at 05:18 PM |
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Alrighty, reporting back my findings after driving around the block a couple of times.
She's very bloody sluggish, like, accelerating takes so bloody long now!
Gave Siggi at GHR a buzz, he reckons it is timing. Just did some research into it and will most likely do it myself tomorrow at some point. I have
like, 5 litres of petrol in her, so if I make it to school and home again, I'll time her.
I think Joel has swayed me to do it once again, bloody hell. Looks like I'll be undertaking it really soon, should be good!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 24th, 2011 at 05:39 PM |
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Found the issue! Went and had a look again, after studying the picture above.
Check out where the tube from the vacuum advance on the distributor goes... DOH!
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Brass Munky
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| posted on August 24th, 2011 at 06:46 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
I'm curious about your bug, those T-bars in your signature, are they legal in Adelaide?
Also, say I want to get Zelda's stance, well, lower. What needs to go into Zelda to get her say, 2" lower all round?
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If I could give you a straight answer on those, I would... A Police officer couldn't give me a straight answer, we did talk about the legality over a
beer, I don't remember his EXACT words, but I think its going to come down to the individual officer, their mood, and my attitude at the time.
To lower yours, I believe that you have a strut front end and not a torsion bar, so the front end would be a spring change or compression, the rear is
a simple case of adjusting the torsion bars to where you want. There are lots of tutorials around the place to do it...
| Quote: | I used to think like
that once, till I actually did it to my own bug.
It's one of the most sensible and logical modifications, they should have come from the factory like it same as Kombis did.
You don't actually cut it, just drill out the spot welds and grinding off a couple of tack welds, same as replacing the apron only you dont weld it
back on, bolts in place instead.
all easily reversible and is not even visibly different.
Has far more purposes than just easing engine removal.
Makes replacing the engine bay seal a 5 min job without removing the engine and muffler replacement is alot easier too as is removing the crank
pulley.
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No doubt that it has its uses, (The next time my engine comes out, im doing it to mine) but I think his time right now would be better spent getting
the car running perfectly and back on the road for regular use. If the 1916cc engine he keeps talking about eventuates, then it could be a fantastic
Idea then, but for now, there are better things to be spending time and money on...
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 24th, 2011 at 08:39 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Brass Munky
If I could give you a straight answer on those, I would... A Police officer couldn't give me a straight answer, we did talk about the legality over a
beer, I don't remember his EXACT words, but I think its going to come down to the individual officer, their mood, and my attitude at the time.
To lower yours, I believe that you have a strut front end and not a torsion bar, so the front end would be a spring change or compression, the rear is
a simple case of adjusting the torsion bars to where you want. There are lots of tutorials around the place to do it...
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Ah, fair enough! I'm currently driving around with no rear bumper as it is. I'm just hoping that when I do get pulled over, there isn't any issues
and I'm able to work myself out of a fine if anything was to eventuate from it...
Yeah, I'm pretty sure I have a MacPherson Strut Suspension setup at the front, so I'll have to do some more research into how to go about lowering
her. Thanks though!
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Brass Munky
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| posted on August 24th, 2011 at 11:19 PM |
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I drove my type 3 Panel for years with no rear bar, and my old white type 3 wagon, for years with no front and never had any issues... Deal with them
when they arrive... Alternatively... I'm pretty sure you can get brakets that adapt early bumpers to late cars if you want to go that route...
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 24th, 2011 at 11:29 PM |
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Nah, I'll just drive without my rear bumper for now anyway, just have to see what happens.
I have to be more focused on getting her back on the road and working perfectly before going into customisation and so forth.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 25th, 2011 at 04:59 PM |
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Drove her to school and back again. Noticed the engine having a nice high whine...
Could be something to do with the belt, but here's a video below!
http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/SebastienPeek/?action=view&curre...
Also, have noticed a weird thing going on with the generator light. I videoed me turning the car on and then turning the car off. All focused on the
dash. Watch the generator light.
http://s1099.photobucket.com/albums/g388/SebastienPeek/?action=view&curre...
Any ideas? Really struggling to find any information on such, well, weird things going wrong :l
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 26th, 2011 at 05:04 PM |
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Fixed Zelda's whine!
I was using the old generator belt, not the supplied alternator belt.
All fixed now, she's running perfectly.
Hopefully this fixes my issue of her guzzling petrol like a V6.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 28th, 2011 at 12:25 AM |
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Since the alternator conversion, Zelda has been aggressively guzzling petrol.
What would be the main cause for this?
It almost sounds like it is time to take her in for a service, or better yet, complete one myself.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 30th, 2011 at 02:02 PM |
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Alrighty, has been a while (yes, three days in my eyes is a while) and just thought I'd update everyone on what has been happening.
Like I have mentioned before, Zelda is guzzling petrol like no tomorrow and she is starting to smell of fuel inside the cabin.
Now, I'm pretty sure this isn't just because of the alternator conversion but I could very well be wrong. I have taken a look at the fuel lines from
the fuel tank to the engine (ones that are clearly visible in the bonnet area) and couldn't find anything that would be causing it to leak...
However, I found this, and have no idea what is doing here nor what it is meant to be doing...
Also, while driving the other day, a bit of my chrome trim fell off. Good thing I was at the lights and heard it, jumped out and picked it up. No
thanks to the people behind me honking, the lights weren't even green!
So I'm currently deciding whether or not to rip the whole trim off and bog up the holes. Would look very clean, have seen a lot of other bugs with
the same look too.
I also found something very interesting in my drivers side front wheel arch. I have noticed that whenever I go full lock in a clockwise direction, I
get some sort of rubbing. Think I found where it was rubbing. But funny enough, there are no marks on the inside of the wheel itself...
Hopefully by the end of today I have installed the LED strips under the dash and they're working perfectly. Then it comes down to mounting and
playing with the parcel shelf setup...
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Brass Munky
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| posted on August 30th, 2011 at 11:31 PM |
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That's the tyre rubbing on the inside of the guard.... All my cars have done that... but all my cars have been LOW....
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 31st, 2011 at 01:21 AM |
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Might have to get the measuring tape out and see what height Zelda is at.
I'm pretty sure she isn't stock, obviously, I scrape everywhere, even just getting out of my driveway and that isn't even that big of a change in
the road!
Will see what I can find tomorrow. Hopefully getting the LEDs in tomorrow as well!
Tomorrow is going to be very busy, got my only trial exam.
The end of Year Twelve is coming, time to get your pants off!
(Yes, I am currently delirious and it is late).
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OldTimer
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| posted on August 31st, 2011 at 06:12 PM |
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Looking good Seb. What's a bit of rubber when the stance is right? 
Good luck with the rest of the year.
Old Timer
P.S. I KNOW who Zelda is. 
air is cool, but air-cooled is cooler!
1967 Aussie Built Type 1 1915 Deluxe
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on August 31st, 2011 at 11:10 PM |
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Ahah definitely nothing wrong with a bit of rubber, her stance is nice, just want it a little lower!
Thanks Old Timer!
...
What do you mean you know who Zelda is?! 
As in, you know the character or as in you know her before she was mine OR you know her due to the fact that my signature asks? :P
I'm pretty sure I read way too deep into that...
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on September 1st, 2011 at 03:45 PM |
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Alrighty, have installed all the LED strips that I had, two under the dash and then one each under the front seats, all wired to perfection and all
hidden.
I'll take some photos later this evening when it gets dark.
Have an issue though. Sounds like my fan inside the fan shroud is rubbing. I really don't want to have to take it out and replace it just yet, is it
dangerous for me to be driving with it rubbing?
Here are some awesome photos. Two under the dash and then the front seats, looking pretty awesome!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on September 1st, 2011 at 08:02 PM |
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Taking Zelda into GHR tomorrow morning so that I can figure out what is going on with her.
I do know that it is the fan rubbing in the shroud, but that, from what I can determine, isn't much of a big deal it just sounds terrible.
Hopefully Siggi can figure out what is going on with her damn fuel consumption.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on September 2nd, 2011 at 07:00 PM |
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Alrighty, took her in and she is healthy again besides a few things.
So, her timing was definitely out, way too retarded according to le mechanic! So, timed and then he just yanked the crap out of the fan shroud and now
there is no rubbing.
However, I have another issue now. Woo.
Seems my oil bath cleaner is leaking like no tomorrow. It has gone all over the coil.
So, I'm buying a new coil, an air filter, and an air breather for the oil filler.
Least her donk will look nicer!
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Lucky Phil
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| posted on September 3rd, 2011 at 09:54 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
Thought I'd add this. While the Oil Aircleaner was off, we wanted to catch all the leaks. So, being German and all, we did the following.
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Errrrr. You do realise Heineken is Dutch beer, Don't you?
Still, Points for your green approach!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on September 3rd, 2011 at 11:19 PM |
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Goddammit, I did not know that actually, but thanks!
She's leaking so much oil it isn't funny. Going to have to figure out what to do to fix it.
We'll see what tomorrow brings.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on September 5th, 2011 at 09:35 AM |
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Alrighty, so yesterday was full of fun happenings with the aid of SpLiTmEiStEr even though he was a little under the weather and I may have got him in
trouble with his misses.
However, we got a breather pipe attached firmly to the oil bath cleaner, fixed the carby back on properly with a new gasket and got a new coil for her
as well.
We all know how Seb likes to put images up, I must apologise for my photo whoreness. Enjoy though!
New coil.
New breather hose, this is where oil was leaking onto the previous coil, not good!
So after all of this, I went to check this morning if she was still leaking. Yep, you guessed right, she sure is!
Now, I don't know how well the following pictures will demonstrate where the oil is actually dripping from, but lemme try and explain.
There are four bolts holding the sump onto the block I assume, the back left bolt is the culprit from where the oil is dripping off.
Now, I don't know how to fix this, and any ideas would be very appreciated. Let's see if some images help explain what I'm talking about!
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Joel
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| posted on September 5th, 2011 at 10:06 AM |
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What have you got the other end of that hose connected to?
THat's the pre-heat hose and ducts hot air into the carb when it's cold.
early ones sucked in hot air from the heaterbox and later hot air of the heads.
Little lever is a summer/winter control
Trouble is it's mix-matched and isnt for that engine, its an early 60s 6volt 1200 air cleaner so that engine wouldn't have the connection for the
preheat for it.
Oil leaks are just the usual pushrod seals and most likely oil cooler too.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on September 5th, 2011 at 10:16 AM |
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The other end of the hose just goes down under the engine bay through the back, pops out next to the gearbox.
Looks like I'll be in dire need of that bloody aftermarket air filter and so forth as soon as possible then, if it isn't really doing anything
anyway...
So, do you think it'd be best if I took it into the mechanic to fix oil leaks or if I should attempt myself?
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on September 5th, 2011 at 02:46 PM |
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Okay, so took Zelda for a bit of a spin this afternoon and took a couple of photos while out for my Graphic Design major that is coming up.
Beautiful day here in Adelaide, glad I took the opportunity to take her for a spin up Gorge Road/Corkscrew Road/Montacute Road.
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Ollie
A.k.a.: Ollie Clarke
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| posted on September 5th, 2011 at 03:12 PM |
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Looks good mate! When are you changing those rear guards?
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on September 5th, 2011 at 03:33 PM |
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Ollie!
As soon as they are back from getting painted and I've got me some white tombstone assemblies, they'll be on there in a flash!
Hopefully before next weekend, aiming to have everything done before Bay to Birdwood.
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Brass Munky
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| posted on September 5th, 2011 at 09:37 PM |
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I sold a pair of 60's rear lights not long ago! Dont have anymore to offer you though to get rid of those horrible Torana lights...
Have you thought about painting the front bar black to break up the white a little?
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on September 5th, 2011 at 09:40 PM |
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Chris!
Dammit, looks like I'll be on my toes looking, waveman1500 has a pair but hasn't returned my PM yet...
The front bumper is actually chrome, has just been painted over with what I can seriously say is a brush and a can of house paint.
I'm in the process of deciding whether or not to take it off, paint strip it and then put it back on.
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