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ian.mezz
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posted on December 17th, 2009 at 02:27 PM |
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WTF
No Pink or Blue belt
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Joel
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posted on December 17th, 2009 at 06:53 PM |
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pffft i dont go for fancy schmancy stuff like you turbo guys
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11CAB
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
If ya got it....Baja it
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posted on December 17th, 2009 at 07:20 PM |
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One thing you didnt mention which I always do when replacing timing belts, is rotate the crank 2 revolutions and rechecking the timing marks, before
firing up the engine
65 Meyers Manx
68 Country Buggy (KO 367)
68 Country Buggy (KO 669)
68 Country Buggy (KO 789)
68 Country Buggy (KO 815)
68 Baja Bug
76 Baja Kombi Twincab
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Joel
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posted on December 17th, 2009 at 07:39 PM |
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good point
all i do is unplug the ground harness and wind it over with the starter a few times
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Jak Rizzo
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posted on December 18th, 2009 at 02:48 PM |
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Pfft, twin cam, try replacing the cam belt on a quad cam rexxy engine, it's a lesson in patience. I installed a blue Gates belt in mine a few months
ago, now sounds like I have a supercharger driving sowly in traffic zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz, zzzzzzzzzzzz or straight cut cam gears on my Engle K-8.
Is the twin cam an interference engine like the quad cam, ie: valves will hit pistons if not careful Joel?
regards
Jak
PS I hope u are going to bring that thing to the Nationals Supersprint this year, I've never seen it in the flesh
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Joel
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posted on December 18th, 2009 at 07:24 PM |
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yeah hardly anyones seen it in the flesh since valla 08
all SOHC up to about 97 are non interfernce, but beyond that they are interferance but of the ones ive seen that have spat the belt, they only ever
bend the valves, the pistons dont seem to cop any damage
those 4 cam belts look like a prick of a job
how old is your belt Jak?
my belt was doing exactly what you described,
i can only really hear it when im loping around town about 1000-1500rpm sounds like what you said, a blower/straight cut whine
i thought it may have been a worn idler but they were all new and now with the new belt it does it even louder
im thinking its just the belt bedding in, the old belt was almost new aswell, got me a spare now lol
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Jak Rizzo
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posted on December 18th, 2009 at 08:01 PM |
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Apparently u are supposed to replace the belt every 100000k's, mine had well over that though. The belt that I took off had a few small nicks &
1mm sized stones in it.
The gates belt was installed about 6 months ago from memory & it's still making the zzzzzz sound.
I was in an undercover carpark today & it sounds absolutely fantastic! I can't beleive after all this time my car still makes me smile.
Jak
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Joel
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posted on December 18th, 2009 at 08:10 PM |
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i know that feeling
i was cruising into town today driving along side a concrete center divider just enjoying the note bouncing off
im getting good value outta all the WRX guys rubber necking expecting to see another REX, the look of disbeleife on their face when they see an
innocent vw is priceless
would be more fun if i had the power to really embarrase them but oh well itll come one day
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Jak Rizzo
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posted on December 19th, 2009 at 08:01 AM |
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I had 2 flanalet wearing mullet headed bogans in an SS commodore give me the thumbs up yesterday bringing the kids home from the beach. They couldn't
keep up climbing up & hill & then through a roundabout.
The looks on their faces were priceless, after all this time it never ever gets old.
Jak
PS I don't think getting a thumbs up from bogans is a good thing is it?
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pete wood
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posted on December 19th, 2009 at 08:47 AM |
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totally. I'm a bogan.
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ElusiveStranger
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posted on December 19th, 2009 at 11:15 AM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by Jak Rizzo
I had 2 flanalet wearing mullet headed bogans
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Bogans???
Advacheersnce
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Joel
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posted on December 19th, 2009 at 04:58 PM |
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thanks jak, now i got this stuck in my head
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDXRT53QduU
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colonel mustard
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posted on December 19th, 2009 at 05:39 PM |
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Classic!
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Baja Wes
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posted on December 19th, 2009 at 10:36 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
tipped the scales at 1004kg today
admittedly thats with a full tank of fuel, about 50kgs of audio gear, probably 30kg of my tools in the front and various other bits like central
locking and powerwindow motors etc not in the original 860kg tare weight
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That's nothing. My V6 powered, climate controlled, electric windowed, kombi gearboxed, subwoofered audio, lift kitted, offroad tyre fitted Baja
weighs 1140kg!
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Jak Rizzo
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posted on December 19th, 2009 at 11:12 PM |
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I think that was the guy driving!
jak
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colonel mustard
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posted on December 19th, 2009 at 11:15 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by Baja Wes
Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
tipped the scales at 1004kg today
admittedly thats with a full tank of fuel, about 50kgs of audio gear, probably 30kg of my tools in the front and various other bits like central
locking and powerwindow motors etc not in the original 860kg tare weight
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That's nothing. My V6 powered, climate controlled, electric windowed, kombi gearboxed, subwoofered audio, lift kitted, offroad tyre fitted Baja
weighs 1140kg!
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isnt that a bad thing.....?
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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posted on December 19th, 2009 at 11:40 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by colonel mustard
Quote: | Originally
posted by Baja Wes
Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
tipped the scales at 1004kg today
admittedly thats with a full tank of fuel, about 50kgs of audio gear, probably 30kg of my tools in the front and various other bits like central
locking and powerwindow motors etc not in the original 860kg tare weight
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That's nothing. My V6 powered, climate controlled, electric windowed, kombi gearboxed, subwoofered audio, lift kitted, offroad tyre fitted Baja
weighs 1140kg!
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isnt that a bad thing.....?
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It's a Baja, so going fast isn't the greatest thing, I'm sure Wes's car would give most a run for their money though. Plus a lot of the weight is
over the rear wheels which helps add traction while offroading. Still weighs a darn sight less than just about every 4WD out there.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Baja Wes
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posted on December 20th, 2009 at 08:45 AM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by colonel mustard
isnt that a bad thing.....?
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Depends on what you crash into.
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surfbeetle
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posted on December 28th, 2009 at 02:29 PM |
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I have been reading this entire thread over the last few days in my spare time. It's very impressive. Also I must say thank you as it has answered
questions I had regarding the alternator wiring as well as the surge tank. Hopefully I can get my EJ20 Turbo up and running soon as money permits. I
am in California, out here in the desert, a lot of people have been using EJ's for a while in their sand buggies. I was able to pick up a Link ECU
for it on ebay with a wiring harness. It plugged in with no issues.
One thing I must comment on is the oil pressure and oil light sender. On my VW motor, I used a VDO sender that was both a pressure and the dash light
sender, not two separate items. Also, I saw on a vanagon/subaru conversion website that they used a stainless steel braided line to allow the sender
to be mounted out of the way of the alternator. This is what I plan to do as I am leaving the alternator and air conditioning in the stock
location.
Again thanks for the great thread and motivation to continue with my project.
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Joel
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posted on December 28th, 2009 at 06:17 PM |
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Hi Surfbeetle
this time last year when i was first considering this conversion i just couldnt find any real thorough info on it which is why i decided to make the
thread.
Its becoming more and more popular conversion so the more info there is out there the easy it will be for people in the future
the oil sender issue really is a PITA....
because of the alternator/powersteering bracket and even the alternator itself its just not possible to screw a pressure sender directly into the port
like the stock idiot light sender
those duel pole ones like you have are good as they eliminate the need for a tee and a the idiot light sender
ive seen them fitted by using a pair of 45degree adapters so it clears the alt and powersteering bracket
the other option is at the flywheel end of the block is a second oil gallery with a blank plug in it
with an 90 degree elblow fitted here you can just squeeze in a pressure sender like the pic below
i kept the gallery fitting from my old engine with the intention of doing the same, but in too much of a rush to get the new engine in its on the
still to do list
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Jak Rizzo
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posted on December 29th, 2009 at 05:57 AM |
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My Autometer Oil Pressure sender fits fine under the alternator, maybe it's different on my rexxy engine? Mine is in a VDO T-Section so that I can
run a 2.1L wasserboxer oil pressure switch hooked up to an Autometer warning light on my dash.
The wasserboxer switches come on at a higher pressure than the standard Subaru ones.
jak
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Joel
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posted on December 29th, 2009 at 06:57 AM |
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they would surely be the same
mine with a 690pk can just get the alternator low enough to actually get the belt on the pulleys
maybe with that underdrive pulley on yours jak it lets the alt sit abit higher??
looks like you have got the alt sitting pretty high on the tensioner bracket?
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Jak Rizzo
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posted on December 30th, 2009 at 12:57 PM |
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my alternator height came about purely from belt length. i could definantly do with one an inch shorter, which u just reminded me is on my to do
list.
regards
Jak
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Joel
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posted on January 9th, 2010 at 07:50 PM |
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ok so it was giving me the shits not having the snow plough on
anyone who has a kamei chin spoiler on there bug will know the difference they make especially at speed
for phase one i decided to go the swiss cheese route
i was just a bit worried about losing to much strenght if i just cut a whopping hole in it
i know jak has done that with his but mine has taken a hell of a beating from when my bug was stupid low and has a few stress cracks around the place
anyway with a heap of 40mm holes it looked alittle something like this
when on the move my temp gauge never budges off 90c
within about 5 mins it got there as per normal and sat there for about 5kms but not long after that it started to climb till finally the fan cut in
i was still over 5kms from town but kept it going
it ddint get over 102 which is the temp the fan cuts in at but the fan never turned off the whole way into town
had me kinda puzzled cos the opening i made was perfectly matched to the slots in my valance
then it twigged
the spoiler hanging down below the bottom of the valance was cutting off the air flow to the scoop i made
so spoiler back off problem gone
not a total loss, as i suspected putting a heap of holes in the center partially defeats the purpose
but it was still working to a degree, just not as well as it used to
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STIDUB
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Over it.
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posted on January 9th, 2010 at 09:45 PM |
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perhaps runa bit of flat ally from the kamei to the apron then passed the bottom of the radiator, so everything goes thru it not under? jak has a big
boxy looking duct going from kamei to apron seems to be very effective
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STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
The above are personal views, no more, no less
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gerrelt
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posted on January 9th, 2010 at 09:49 PM |
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Hi Joel,
I am fitting a kamei spoiler too.
I allready had it on the car, for test-fitting. I had no problems with cooling.
I recreated the slots I made in my front vallance in the spoiler:
I made some brackets to make the spoiler a little sturdier on the sides, and two lower brackets to make the part below the vents a little stronger.
I also made a plate that goes from the underside of the spoiler to the underside of the radiator.
It's screwed on to these two lower brackets (plate not in place in this picture):
I still have to paint the second hand spoiler flat black. I don't really like the purple..
But it's to cold at the moment here for painting...or working in my barn...
This all might not apply to you, btw, you've got your radiator mounted higher, and I am running a 1400 cc, which is probably easier to cool.
FWIW: See this part of my site: http://www.gerrelt.nl/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=86...
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colonel mustard
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posted on January 9th, 2010 at 09:53 PM |
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hey joel...
re: the pic above, where the two support pieces of alloy are, make it a sheet....?? air flow.......
my question is, does it work as well with holes in it??
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ian.mezz
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posted on January 10th, 2010 at 11:15 AM |
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Hmmmm
you may have trouble cause your radiator sits so hi and its not a cross flow and only the bootom half doing all the cooling, and you may need two
small fans????
I ran my around over winter with no hole and the fan used to say on longer at idle. but still go off.
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71-BEETLE-SEDAN
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posted on January 10th, 2010 at 12:17 PM |
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May i say thewy are some nice welds on that rad frame.
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Joel
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posted on January 10th, 2010 at 12:23 PM |
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Gerrelt, yours works well because your radiator is right down low in the air flow,
due to size of my rad its up on top of the frame head
i've got my setup so the radiator cap and headertank cap are both level with each other and the highest point of the system
so all i have to do is tip the coolant in and drive, no bleeding needed
if i ever have to get a new radiator ill get a small low profile cross flow one from an alfa or a pug but the problem with those are theyre a pain to
bleed cos there so low and dont have a cap
i know the alfas have a bleed port on the top but im happy with my current setup its proven itself to be more than adequate in 40c+ weather and my
current rad is freshly reco'd so it probably wont come to that
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