| [ Total Views: 268207 | Total Replies: 705 | Thread Id: 77027 ] |
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 colonel mustard
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| posted on January 10th, 2010 at 12:49 PM |
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shotgun kamei...?
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Joel
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| posted on January 10th, 2010 at 01:00 PM |
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its pretty well fubar and has a decent crack along the bottom and the gel coats gone where its been bottomed out to many times at the base
oh and now has lots of holes
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1303Steve
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| posted on January 10th, 2010 at 11:16 PM |
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Hi Joel
I made an alloy section that fitted where the old deformation element bolted it and I completely boxed in around air intake behind the front apron.
Steve
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Joel
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| posted on January 17th, 2010 at 11:00 AM |
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so ive now got over 600kms on this thing since the new engines gone in
all is going sweet, its getting better fuel economy than the old motor
i'm averaging 8.2L/100 which is about 60%city/40%highway which will get alot better once i stop driving it like its stolen
my city cycle sux cos every stop sign or redlight theres always some young dickhead in a falcodoore or rice burner that hears it and wants to race
anyway oil and coolant levels havent moved and the only error code ive had was when i broke the wire off the TPS connection when i was getting the eng
cert done
ive already hacked about my kamei, figured i may as well hack up my car bra as well
had a small issue of it blocking the rad intake
easy fixed with a pair of scissors 
when i get a chance ill get the upholstry shop to sew in some fabric mesh like mainstream car bras have
this will help give it some strength and stop animals and small children being sucked in
not too many people saw my bug before i resprayed it in 2001 but it had what could easily be described as the worst case of gravel rash on the north
coast.
i live out on some very dodgy roads so it doesnt take long for it to get bad hence the need for a bra now that im using it alot more regularly
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71-BEETLE-SEDAN
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| posted on January 17th, 2010 at 12:07 PM |
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I was gunna say why you usiing that i think they look like crap on every sort of car.
Mine is the same but only cause havent got running boards and at the moment we are working at saleyards and they have a massive area which is just
gravel and i kinda had to show off to the guys i work with. I must say it is fun.
Is there any more accesories youve got for your bug that are gunna be cut up cause they black the intake?
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Joel
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| posted on January 18th, 2010 at 11:14 AM |
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umm no theres not too much more than can be in the way
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colonel mustard
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| posted on January 18th, 2010 at 09:19 PM |
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car bra's worth it on expensive paint. 
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Joel
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| posted on January 19th, 2010 at 08:46 AM |
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its a 9 year old 2 pak respray so its not exactly an expensive paintjob
the car bra may look stupid but its a good preventative measure, it new at $50 is alot cheaper than what it cost me nearly 10 years ago to have the
car sandblasted cos the stone chips were so bad
now ive pretty much finished the mechanical side of things i'll finally get into gear and repaint this year, the new paint i have for it has been
sitting in the back of my shed cupboard for over a year now and i dont feel like having to have it sandblasted all over again
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Joel
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| posted on January 21st, 2010 at 07:33 PM |
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I guess by now everyones wanting to know the $64,000 question
i kept track of everything that went into it right down to silly little things like $2 check engine light etc
my initial gameplan was on the road and engineered for $3k and 3 months
that was with me doing the entire lot
the 3 month part was way off but that was my doing.
everytime something got hard i cracked the shits and walked away from it, sometimes for several weeks
and if it wasnt that i was waiting on parts or just busy working on other cars
after i bought the S coupe i spent over a month tinkering with it and never once touched the bug
then people kept dumping their own cars on me for work
Well anyway before the first engine replacement the budget looked alittle something like this with me instead taking the smart option and paying the
pro's for the loom and sump
1992 Subaru Liberty 500
ENGINE/ADAPTER PARTS
Adapter plate and flywheel 480
Flywheel pilot bearing 08
5PK690 alt belt 23
flywheel bolts 10
adapter bolts 04
Sump modification 605
ELECTRICAL
Bosch EFI Fuel Pump 51
mod to wiring loom 250
reed switch VSS MK1 09
terminal block largex2 16
terminal block small 06
Fuse holders x3 14
Check Engine light 02
temp gauge 52
circuit breaker 30AMP 11
earth cable lugs 08
Proximity sensor VSS MK2 25
COOLING SYSTEM
Radiator 20
header tank 129
radiator cap 12
Stainless steel tube 1.5" x8M 113
bend pipes 45
Commodore V8 top hose x2 32
EA-ED Falcon top hose 18
XG falcon ute/van btm hose x2 40
box of 20 Tridon hose clamps 31
marine ply for radiator 12
pinch welting 12
FUEL SYSTEM
Surge tank 57
7M spool of codan EFI hose 70
1M 12mm fuel hose 14
Fuel tank fittings 16
Fuel Filter 39
Assorted grommets 20
replacement lift pump 80
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Catco Hi-flow catalytic converter 50
impreza header 20
mandrel bend 2.25" 45* 20
mandrel bend 2.25" 90* 19
press bend 42mm 10
stainless steel exhaust tips 44
cat flange gaskets 10
INTAKE SYSTEM
pod filter 12
silicon hose straight 3" 13
Silicon hose 3" 135* 23
mandrel bend 2.5" 90* 16
mandrel bend 180* 2.5" 40
TOTAL 3167
if u took out the $250 for the loom and 605 for the sump and factor in engineer cert ($350) i woulda been under the original budget had i have gone
with my original plan
but looking back im so glad i made the right decision and had those 2 professionally done, they're the 2 main areas that make life hell if you
skimp
In the end with the new engine costing me $550 and the engineers cert costing $350 I still only ended up just over $4k which is less than what my 1776
cost me to build 4 years ago even with me doing all the assembly
$4k now wont even buy one of those 1600 mexi crate motors after the price jump they had last year and im not even going to comment on the quality of
those, i doubt even a stock reco would be under that if done properly
and to build a 150hp vw engine would take double that $4k figure and at the end of the day it will only have 1/3 the lifespan, wont be anywhere as
smooth or economical and when it blows up will cost another $8k to replace
i know which i'd rather
there are alot of things missing off that list that i already had like
radiator fan
facet Lift pump
HD clutch
relays
wiring
electrical connectors
clamps
sealants
epoxys
muffler
welding supplies
various nuts and bolts
various scrap metal plate and box section RHS
I did fluke afew things cheap, the chances of getting a brand new hiflow catco cat for $50, bosch EFI pump for $50 or a reco radiator for $20 are
pretty slim but with other things it was the opposite
there no real reason to go all out on a custom tigged alu header tank when a plastic factory one from something european works fine and the alu surge
tank....well lets not open up that can of worms again
Also i dont really count the kafer bar as being part of the conversion
its a fixture of the car and would always stay even if the subi went for good and knowing now the difference it makes i woulda fitted one regardless
its been a huge job, the amount of welding done has been obscene, especially all the stainless welding on the coolant lines and exhaust
i felt like giving up several times but with alot of perserverance in the end with the way the car now performs now i couldnt be happier
yea a turbo engine woulda been nice but then I'd need to spend another $4k on a gearbox to be able to enjoy it instead of driving like a grandma and
hack my car up a whole lot more to get the engine, turbo and intercooler to fit
this engine has more than ample power for me and has surprised more than a few people already
besides my bug is just a toy/cruiser not a race car
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Joel
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| posted on January 21st, 2010 at 07:34 PM |
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damn it my price list didnt copy and paste too well
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STIDUB
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| posted on January 21st, 2010 at 07:48 PM |
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$64,000!!!!!!!!! woah! i thought this was supposed to be a cheap conversion!!!!!!! now id really hate to know how much micks' cost him
you can tell you dont have a minister of war & finance posting up the expenses :P
Volkswagen Drivers Club of Queensland - member
STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
The above are personal views, no more, no less |
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Joel
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| posted on January 21st, 2010 at 09:01 PM |
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thats 64,000 japanese yen 
with change left over
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1303Steve
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| posted on January 21st, 2010 at 10:08 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by STIDUByou can tell you dont have a minister of war & finance posting up the expenses :P
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Hi
When people ask you do you want a receipt you need to say no, its only incriminating evidence.
I spent much more than that on the motor in Davids car, next time is Suby time.
Steve
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ian.mezz
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| posted on January 22nd, 2010 at 06:40 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by STIDUB
$64,000!!!!!!!!! woah! i thought this was supposed to be a cheap conversion!!!!!!! now id really hate to know how much micks' cost him
you can tell you dont have a minister of war & finance posting up the expenses :P
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 It was $63,999
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Joel
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| posted on January 22nd, 2010 at 07:24 PM |
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you know me, not to be outdone by anyone.....
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Kabba63
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| posted on February 16th, 2010 at 04:05 PM |
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WOW...! Gee mate I only new to this site, and I have been looking for a thread like this for weeks as I am wanting to do the same conversion to mine
yet a EJ22T although in saying that you a really starting to make me think EJ22 as it cuts alot of time and work out. Its just that I really want
horse power this time round so maybe I will have to go turbo, hhmmmm Im a little lost now, "scratching my head" I must say it is really nice to see
everyone on this site seems to be helping each other out. I would really like to say thank you for such an awesome write up! And I wish there was
someone like you down here in Sydney because I would be asking them a thousand and 1 questions... good work Joel...
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rocknrob
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| posted on February 16th, 2010 at 05:37 PM |
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Yes it was a great write up Joel and it really is a hard call to decide between the EJ22 and the EJ20t...just depends what you want your car for. In a
beetle the 2.2 must be so torquey down low cos i know it was in the kombi. So glad I still have the 2.2 to swap back should i decide to
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Joel
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| posted on February 16th, 2010 at 06:03 PM |
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Kabba, just ask any questions on here, its what the thread is for.
theres probably other people with the same questions and if i dont know the answer someone else reading probably does.
overall im pretty happy with the EJ22
i still havent grown out of that leadfoot boy racer mentality and would really loved an EJ20T.
Theres a GT-B legacy twin turbo engine sitting in a little birdys shed with my name on it but still weighing up if i go through with it or not
the EJ22 pretty much fell into place and fired up where as a turbo engine needs alot of body work.
All the rear parcel tray needs chopping out and boxing in higher for intercooler or charge cooler clearance, and the quad cam motors dont fit between
beetle bodywork, see ricolas thread to see exactly what i mean, which takes some major reconstructive surgery to get around
then theres the gearbox which needs moving forward and intensive work over to handle the power.
for all that extra work involved im happy to live with alittle less power, and alot less cost
a stock liberty is no slouch, but chuck that engine in a car thats nearly half a tonne lighter and you still get one f**king quick bug
besides the subaru community widely accept that the EJ22 is one of subarus best built bulletproof engines and very under stressed.
just dont overheat them and look after the cooling system and they'll go for well over 300k. dont seem to see many turbo motors making those kinda
KMs, they have a rep for spinning bearings, and having head problems on some models but im probably just trying to find excuses not to do it
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Joel
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| posted on February 22nd, 2010 at 07:17 PM |
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first big trip report
well the run upto dubs by the pub yesterday marks the bugs first decent trip with the new engine,
up till now the longest its done is only about 50kms in one hit
its now done a tad over 1500kms since the engine number 2 went in
im happy to say the trip went well, car ran perfect up and back
i filled up as i left ballina and being early on a sunday morn there was sweet FA traffic on the roads
i drove nonstop till i got to the nudgee service center which is 5 mins down the road from the brissy entainment center where every meets
when i say non stop i literally mean NON STOP.
i didnt get stopped at the sextons hill lights and now the gateway bridge toll gates are gone i didnt have to slow down once thanks to the low levels
off traffic
it didnt twig till i actually stopped at the servo that i hadnt changed out of 4th once between leaving ballina and pulling into nudgee service
center, thats over 200kms without a gear change....crazy
it pulled up every hill and over the gateway happilly in 4th
i didnt fill up till i headed home but that tank i got 7.6L/100km
thats sitting on 110-115km/h as its duel carriage motorway all the way from byron now but also abit of stop/go convoy driving
i took a couple of people for some rigorous joyrides too which probably didnt help things either
i had to head into the city on the way home to catch up with the younger brother who lives over fairfield way
even with all the stopping at traffic lights my fan never came on once
to date in 1500kms the only times its actually come on was my failed kamei spoiler gag and a few times when ive let it idle in my driveway for about
5mins after a drive to make sure the fan really does work
it just doesnt get hot enough to turn it on under normal driving, gets very close some times but hasnt yet, the stainless pipes underneath are largely
to thank for this
just goes to show how much energy is wasted on old RWD cars with direct drive fans
it sat on 92c the whole way up there and on the way back untill i slowed down to 100km/h around nerang and interestingly it climbed upto 98 and stayed
there.
soon as i left tweed and cranked back upto the 115km/h it dropped back to 92
so my assumption on this is the intake on the valance needs opening up abit more
im just gonna cut the bars out and make it a square hole i think
im surprised actually that it stays as cool as it does given the small area of the intake currently
only other observation was as i pulled off the highway and coasted down the hill into bangalow i noticed the EFI fuel pump was making the cavitating
noise again, alot like ians does all the time with no surge tank
a quick check proved the surge tank was pretty toasty to touch.
but im pretty sure the reasons for that is 1. my surge tank is only 1L and 2. my fuel line setup,
i run straight rubber hose all the way through the tunnels which are also inside another protective hose so theyre very well insulated.
if they were metal and running underneath the car they would be getting a good cooling effect from road draft like the coolant pipes
i had pushed the bug abit just prior to this as i wanted to see how it pulled up the st helena hill at byron
probably shouldnt be admitting this on a public forum but anyway it pulled 130km/h in 4th up there with abit more to give but i didnt wanna push my
luck,
i'd already done that enough through sleepy hollow where a red P-plater in a BA XR6 just had to play. no wonder they keep killing themselves in
accidents
damn this thing is gonna lose me my license
anyway thinking another possiblity was the fuel rails are just getting hot from the non vented decklid i chucked the standoffs on but it actually
ended up making no difference
first step is gonna be metal lines under the bug
i feel abit more comfortable doing that now that ive raised it 1" front and 2" at the back
and failing that im thinking of simplifying things with an intank fuel pump.
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1303Steve
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| posted on February 22nd, 2010 at 07:30 PM |
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Hi Joel
Sounds like fun drive, nothing like a bug with some grunt on the open road.
When I 1st fitted the WBX in my 1302 I only did city stop start driving with an occasional quick blast down the M5.
My 1st real road trip was to Valla in 1988, every time I got up to around 100-110 kph the water temp would drop, I kept getting paranoid that I had
lost coolant and that there was nothing for the sender to register.
Same thing happened driving down Dorrigo mountain stuck behind slow moving cars, the temp dropped about 20 degrees.
Its your call but I would leave it alone.
Steve
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71-BEETLE-SEDAN
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| posted on February 22nd, 2010 at 07:33 PM |
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If you loose your liscence ill confiscate your bug so you don do it again.
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Joel
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| posted on February 22nd, 2010 at 07:46 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi Joel
Sounds like fun drive, nothing like a bug with some grunt on the open road.
When I 1st fitted the WBX in my 1302 I only did city stop start driving with an occasional quick blast down the M5.
My 1st real road trip was to Valla in 1988, every time I got up to around 100-110 kph the water temp would drop, I kept getting paranoid that I had
lost coolant and that there was nothing for the sender to register.
Same thing happened driving down Dorrigo mountain stuck behind slow moving cars, the temp dropped about 20 degrees.
Its your call but I would leave it alone.
Steve
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when i get it repainted im going to fit a usa A/C valance but till then just weighing up options
weather is only gonna start cooling down now and some other driving i wont mention failed to get it any hotter so maybe its best left
got another vw gathering on the goldy next sunday which will test a few changes
i'd love to unleash it legally somewhere decent like mt panorama just to properly expeirence what its really got
the back roads around here are no fun, by the time u get a decent speed up u have to slow down for a corner or dodge an animal
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colonel mustard
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| posted on February 22nd, 2010 at 07:56 PM |
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Sherman front valance for $190.. :P
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gerrelt
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| posted on February 23rd, 2010 at 06:23 AM |
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Nice drive, Joel. It sounds like you had fun!
Maybe if you cut out the front vent slots to make a square, you can put the Kamei spoiler back on?
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pete wood
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| posted on February 23rd, 2010 at 07:55 AM |
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I think 92 is perfectly acceptable. Mine sits on about 91 most of the time on the freeway. Even on a really hot day... and that's pushing 31" tyres
with a 0.77 overdrive in an 091 box. It's doing like 2700rpm at 110 or there abouts. I used to freak out when it got over 90, but really, it's
pretty good now. I mean when I first had it going with the rear mount radiator, it used to creep up to 100deg on the freeway. 91-2 is much more
acceptable. I went out on sunday arvo offroading up the mountains and the fans came on a few times then and in traffic on the way home, but the rest
of the time it's great. Afterall, the fans are spose to come on. Re the aerodynamics of the radiator box, I'd look at what's happening under the
car before opening up the front more. A little gurney flap to create extra pressure under the car might be the trick.
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Joel
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| posted on February 23rd, 2010 at 09:07 PM |
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heats getting away from the rad fine
was just that 90-100km/h threshold that it crept up abit
but anyway valance is now modified 
havent done any testing yet but its opened up by over 50%
today it hit 38c and for the first time ever my fan finally came on
but not while i was driving.
sitting in stop go lunch time traffic it came up abit but no fan,
I stopped and went into a shop for 5 mins when i came out and i fired it back up the fan cut straight in, ran about 1 min and cut off, i reckon i can
blame heat soak on that one
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JVLRacing
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| posted on February 23rd, 2010 at 09:32 PM |
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it will eventually take a toll joel...these motors still like cold air around them.....heatsoak ,fuelrails ,surge tank etc u will end up with
probs....
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Joel
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| posted on February 24th, 2010 at 09:59 AM |
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i was thinking that JVL,
curiosity got the better off me so i went for a wander next door and popped the hood of the neighbours 96 GX wagon and had a looksee
the only air entering the engine bay is coming in through the radiator, so its already preheated,
crank the a/c on a hot day too then the extra heat of the condensor is only adding to that
granted the stock airbox has a cold air feed from inside the wheel well but seems to be boy racer etiquette to throw that out and fit shiny pretty pod
filters instead so the engine can run soooo much better on hot engine bay air 
im thinking maybe of stealing jaks idea and boxing in my filter and ducting a feed into the wheel well
maybe a frenched intake in the guard, if i can be arsed doing that much body work
but at present my filter is sitting right below the louvers for the rear window intake
been meaning to chuck the digitem remote probe on it and go for a spin
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colonel mustard
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| posted on February 24th, 2010 at 10:03 AM |
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could you run a "daimo style" pipe up to the condensor, just to get some air flow onto it??
i would have to agree that jak's hole in the gaurd would logically mean cooler intake air temps.... but what evidence do you hvae that your intake
temp is too high??
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Joel
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| posted on February 24th, 2010 at 10:07 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by colonel mustard
could you run a "daimo style" pipe up to the condensor, just to get some air flow onto it??
i would have to agree that jak's hole in the gaurd would logically mean cooler intake air temps.... but what evidence do you hvae that your intake
temp is too high??
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by condensor u mean pod filter
i dont think they are high
if i had one of them flashy scanreader thingys i could see what my intake temps are but meh engine runs happy enough and putting the decklid standoffs
on for the last 30km home didnt make any differences
but the idea of a cooler intake charge is appealing
havent you read boostcruisng, coldair intakes or CAI for the cool ppl is where its at according to all the 17y/o mechnical engineers that post on
there
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