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humpty
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posted on January 16th, 2012 at 06:52 PM |
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30cc accel kit arrived today.... Will whack it in tomorrow.... Also on the jobs to do list is move the O2 and boost gauges from the rear view mirror
to the lower 'A' pillar, and the shift light to the tach.... Looking for some better/lighter rear tyres too... Anyone got any suggestions?
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ian.mezz
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posted on January 16th, 2012 at 07:16 PM |
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thats funny , we are looking at some tyres.
http://www.hornityres.com.au/tyre-range/hoosier.aspx
Dangerous says 26 slicks and these on the front.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NANKANG-DRAG-FRONT-RUNNERS-suit-15-x-4-5-rims-SLIC...
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matberry
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posted on January 16th, 2012 at 08:47 PM |
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If not slicks the choice has to be M/T ET Drag radial.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Dak-A-Tak
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posted on January 16th, 2012 at 09:51 PM |
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Just be careful of front tyre height , If car is lowered a little , a tyre about 24inches works well and looks good .
So check nankang tyre height first .Most front runners are smaller (lower)then what is writen on side.
On Rod's (48IDA) car we run Hoosier 23X4.5-15 on front and back MH racemaster 6X26-15slicks.
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humpty
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posted on January 16th, 2012 at 10:27 PM |
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This is what I'm looking at for the rear.....
http://www.vwparts.net/MSS-016.html
Is there anything wrong with running 135 Nagkangs on the front and the M&H Cheaters on the rear??
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humpty
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posted on January 17th, 2012 at 08:53 PM |
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Think might have just broken it....
It's too hot to check for sure.... It's cooling down right now, but it just made a very scarey noise whilst I was setting the carb, then stopped
abruptly...
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matberry
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posted on January 17th, 2012 at 09:07 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by humpty
Think might have just broken it....
It's too hot to check for sure.... It's cooling down right now, but it just made a very scarey noise whilst I was setting the carb, then stopped
abruptly...
| Oh no, while idling......??? May not be too bad. Keep us informad. Had you been working on it.....any chance of injestion???? Was
everything sounging ok while running, asny noises at the track.....?????????????
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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humpty
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posted on January 17th, 2012 at 09:25 PM |
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It was idling.... Only just got it up to temp... Was a little rich, as I had just fitted the new accell pump and had gone back to base settings....
All seemed good, no noises, no oil pressure issues, no problems at the track.... Just now, before I shut the shed, I noticed the EDIS timing wheel had
fallen off the pulley!!!!???? Can't get a socket onto the bottom pulley to turn the engine over, scared to try the starter..... I'll pull the apron
and rear tin off and check it in the morning.... I really hope it's only a timing issue and nothing major has failed as a result.
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matberry
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posted on January 17th, 2012 at 09:48 PM |
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She'll be right mate, just the chopper wheel coming off, that'll stop it for sure, nothing else should have been harmed. Any noises would be timing
related.
Fingers crossed dude, throw a spanner on the pulley and have a swing.......
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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humpty
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posted on January 17th, 2012 at 10:24 PM |
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Hope so...
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Doug Sweetman
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posted on January 17th, 2012 at 10:54 PM |
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I second Matt - loss of ignition control could have made all sorts of nasty pops and farts..... But with little likelihood of causing mechanical
damage internally....
Good luck !
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Stanley
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posted on January 18th, 2012 at 12:21 PM |
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Thirded(?) you'll be right Simon
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humpty
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posted on January 18th, 2012 at 01:10 PM |
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Just got everything off, and the engine turns over fine.... No scarey noises.... The damage is minimal.... The pulley (made by Dave Stoker back in the
day) is scratched up, a broken thread from the timing wheel mount is stuck in the pulley, the timing wheel is a little banged up but not bent, the
sensor took a couple of hits, but looks ok and the sensor mount is bent....
Looks ok, just a little beat up.... Yet another battle scar to add to the POS' history book!
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LIFE IN THE LOW LANE
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posted on January 18th, 2012 at 05:28 PM |
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Good to hear mate!!
[size=4] ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE[/size]
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
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Doug Sweetman
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posted on January 18th, 2012 at 07:38 PM |
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Hooray
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matberry
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posted on January 18th, 2012 at 07:41 PM |
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cool as, a few battle scars just add to the
'patina'.....
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Stanley
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posted on January 19th, 2012 at 06:56 AM |
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Chicks love scars.......apparently
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modnrod
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posted on January 19th, 2012 at 03:07 PM |
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Quote: | Is there anything
wrong with running 135 Nagkangs on the front and the M&H Cheaters on the rear??
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Are the Nankangs radials or bias?
ANDRA rules state you can only go to 12.5 with slick on the back and radials on the front, but besides the rules, running 12s with a slick will feel
much more stable with a bias on the front to match.
Up until mid-12s, it's fair game, and how it feels at the top end.
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humpty
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posted on January 19th, 2012 at 06:09 PM |
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The Nagkangs are radials....
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essex
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posted on January 19th, 2012 at 09:44 PM |
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Simon, did you get my pm, Barry
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humpty
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posted on January 20th, 2012 at 12:30 AM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by essex
Simon, did you get my pm, Barry
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Nope....
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humpty
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posted on January 20th, 2012 at 12:59 PM |
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Have finished the new sensor mount.... I clocked the sensor and wheel about 15º (ATDC) to make it easier to check TDC and timing.... And to move the
sensor and wiring away from the fan belt a little more.... I reckon it's come up pretty good....
And before you say anything about that Gene Berg timing decal on the pulley.... It is 180º out!!!.... I put it on wrong 20 years ago! :roll:
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humpty
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posted on January 22nd, 2012 at 06:14 PM |
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Up and running again.... Made a little video too.... Brushing up on my editing skills before school starts don't you know..... It's a very basic
edit so I'll post it right up later this eve....
Scored some M&H Front Runners off Barry.... Price was right, so I guess I did want them.... Gonna order some 215/65-15 M&H Cheater Slicks next
month.... Will fit these up on the ERCO's and make up a street set of BRM's for the POS.... Will have a pair of near new 145/65-15 Continental's
for 100 clams if anyone is interested.... Only done 200km and a handful of quarter mile passes....
Gonna start on making up a crankcase breather now... The engine was pushing oil out the dipstick hole at the track the other week.... I've been
putting this off for a while now, but the time has come.... Gonna fit it to the inner guard panel, just inside the engine bay, right over the intake
manifold.... Will vent the rhs rocker cover and crankcase to it, with a drain back prolly down to the TIII oil filler hole. Anyone have a problem with
that idea?.... Will go a take some mock-up pics shortly.
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matberry
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posted on January 22nd, 2012 at 07:02 PM |
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IMO I wouldn't bother with the drain back to the Type 3 oil filler, the breather pipes themselves will double as the drain back, as long as one is
dedecated to this job being fitted to the bottom of the breather tank and having a direct path with no loops or dips in the hose to gather oil.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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humpty
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posted on January 22nd, 2012 at 09:25 PM |
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Whadayareckon?
Here?
Any issue with mounting the can sideways?..... It has an internal baffle tube that sits inline with the air filter...
Or here?
This one will make it a little harder to work on the car.... But will use the fittings as designed....
Plan was the drain going back to the TIII filler in the sump.... But as Matt has suggested, the breather lines can do double duty.... The rocker cover
and one from the oil filler, or the dizzy drive plug, depending on which setup...
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Doug Sweetman
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posted on January 22nd, 2012 at 09:42 PM |
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I think if you mount it sideways it will fill with oil up to the inlet fitting before any oil feeds back to the sump. Probably no big issue to be
honest but it looks like that catch can is designed to be vertical.
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matberry
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posted on January 22nd, 2012 at 10:56 PM |
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I'm for vertical too, RH tappet cover and a big -10 or -12 to the dissy plug.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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humpty
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posted on January 23rd, 2012 at 02:02 AM |
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Yeah..... Your right... The other option is neater and cooler, but not really ideal I know....
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humpty
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posted on January 29th, 2012 at 07:38 PM |
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Thinking, thinking.....
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RCI-DRAG-RACE-FUEL-CELL-1-GALLON-W-FOAM-RCI2010D-/...
Also looking at better, light weight brakes for the car.... They must fit inside the ERCO's.... Any suggestions?
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matberry
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posted on January 29th, 2012 at 07:46 PM |
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That fuel cell looks the go, awesome price.
Not sure what brakes to recommend, I think most will fit inside your Ercos. Will they make your car go faster???
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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