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 DylanTheDubber
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 09:42 AM |
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Ok mate,
If it is setup right you should be fine I know many people running stock fuel pumps with dual kads. best of luck Seb.
From Dylan
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Joel
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 12:02 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
Nah, in that one, the T-piece is coming off of the lower hose connected to the fuel pump, the top line is straight from the tank...
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Yep you're right was just an optical illusion.
Also as smiley mentioned there is 2 different lenght pushrods 100mm for alternator pumps and 108mm for generator.
That style pump with the outlet facing straight up I'm sure use the long one.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 12:43 PM |
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Sure was Joel!
Will try the different pushrod for the different pumps tonight when I get back from work.
I shall see what I can find at home, but should have everything to get her running tonight.
Will see what I can do!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 07:09 PM |
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Have taken a look, swapped around the hoses and I definitely had them the right way first. I tested this by pumping the crap out of the pedal and
there was definitely fuel getting sucked into the pump.
It just isn't sending it to the carbs. Which is the weird thing...
I haven't tried putting the new pushrod in, as I don't have a 13 socket to get the nuts off to get the pump off to replace the pushrod thing.
Maybe tomorrow night. Charging the battery because it sounded like she wanted to start, so might give it a go in another two/three hours and see if I
can get the petrol to the carbs.
Any ideas, would love to know what the hell is going on, it seems like it would be something very simple but it is driving me insane.
Edited on Tuesday, 24 January 2012.
I was taking a quick peek around Zelda, and I was finding all sorts of things. Such as the fact that Zelda already must have a H4 conversion as,
peeking through the really crappy lenses, I could see the writing on the bulb. Woot!
Which means I can get some new ones, but I think my issue now is the fact that the lenses themselves are shot to death. Any ideas on getting new
lenses and where I should be looking? I'm going to assume I have the bucket to attach any 7" sealed beam if I have H4 bulbs in there, but I am not
100%.
Any information would help!
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Smiley
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 08:51 PM |
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I'm no pro on this. But when I did my Baja I just bought the 7" Narva lenses from Repco.
I also bought the buckets to mount them into because It doesn't really matter what you use on a Baja, you make it fit 
You could just buy a pair of them and fit them to your current mountings.
I also run 90/100W bulbs in mine. But just watch out, cause I've burnt out a headlight switch with bulbs that big. Shouldn't be an issue if you're
running relays though.
Smiley
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Joel
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 09:19 PM |
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Outta luck, they're just stocko headlights fitted with H4 halogen bulbs fitted, youll still need mounting buckets like Smiley did.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 10:09 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
I'm no pro on this. But when I did my Baja I just bought the 7" Narva lenses from Repco.
I also bought the buckets to mount them into because It doesn't really matter what you use on a Baja, you make it fit
You could just buy a pair of them and fit them to your current mountings.
I also run 90/100W bulbs in mine. But just watch out, cause I've burnt out a headlight switch with bulbs that big. Shouldn't be an issue if you're
running relays though.
Smiley
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Thanks for that Smiley!
I'll try and take the headlight rim off and take a look to see if I have the buckets there.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
Outta luck, they're just stocko headlights fitted with H4 halogen bulbs fitted, youll still need mounting buckets like Smiley did.
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I'll have to find a place that do RHD mounts, or are they the same for LHD & RHD?
Would love to finally upgrade my headlights and what not, and hopefully get me new front fenders and a front bumper.
Soon everything should piece together, just need to get the engine working which I am pretty sure is going to have to be an electric fuel pump at the
front but we shall see.
From what I have heard, the dual carbs that I am running are plenty for a bone stock 1600tp. I might upgrade her a little bit and get her to a 1641cc
or just jump the gun and get her up to a 1916cc.
What's the maximum you can bore out a 1600cc?
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beetleboyjeff
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 10:17 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
Have taken a look, swapped around the hoses and I definitely had them the right way first. I tested this by pumping the crap out of the pedal and
there was definitely fuel getting sucked into the pump.
It just isn't sending it to the carbs. Which is the weird thing...
I haven't tried putting the new pushrod in, as I don't have a 13 socket to get the nuts off to get the pump off to replace the pushrod thing.
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Check your hoses from the pump to the carbies aren't blocked. I had my carbies off for a few weeks at one stage, and when I re-fitted them, I
couldn't get fuel to them.
After LOTS of stuffing around, I ended up finding it was mud from wasps in the fuel lines - they had found the open ends.
From your ole' mate Jeff
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Smiley
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 10:17 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
What's the maximum you can bore out a 1600cc?
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For a street engine, 94mm.
When you combine this with the stock 69mm stroke crank this gives you the 1915.
He's a handy little link that I like to use for engine sizing.
http://www.offroadvw.net/tech/wes/enginesize.pdf
Smiley
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 10:21 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by beetleboyjeff
Check your hoses from the pump to the carbies aren't blocked. I had my carbies off for a few weeks at one stage, and when I re-fitted them, I
couldn't get fuel to them.
After LOTS of stuffing around, I ended up finding it was mud from wasps in the fuel lines - they had found the open ends.
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Hey Jeff,
The hoses from the pump to the carbs are all brand new, I checked them as well to make sure.
It has to be the fuel pump then, I'm going to try the pushrod and if that fails, I'll just install an electric fuel pump.
Thanks Jeff!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 10:25 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
For a street engine, 94mm.
When you combine this with the stock 69mm stroke crank this gives you the 1915.
He's a handy little link that I like to use for engine sizing.
http://www.offroadvw.net/tech/wes/enginesize.pdf
Smiley
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That is a great link Smiley, thanks for that!
I'll see if I can get into contact with a decent engine builder and get them to bore her out to 94mm. Then need to find some decent pistons.
Yeah, I don't want to stroke her any higher than the standard crank. Although, I'd love to stroke her up to a 2332cc, that would be amazing, maybe
one day...
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Smiley
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 10:29 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
That is a great link Smiley, thanks for that!
I'll see if I can get into contact with a decent engine builder and get them to bore her out to 94mm. Then need to find some decent pistons.
Yeah, I don't want to stroke her any higher than the standard crank. Although, I'd love to stroke her up to a 2332cc, that would be amazing, maybe
one day...
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If you have the money I wouldn't bother having an old block bored. At the end of the day it's still 40+ years old. When my engine was built by Rod
Penrose he just used a brand new block. They are surprisingly cheap and brand new, so you should expect no problems or cracking.
An engine that big would be nice. My current is 2054 and a type one. My next engine will be 2.5L and a Type 4.
Smiley
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 10:33 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
If you have the money I wouldn't bother having an old block bored. At the end of the day it's still 40+ years old. When my engine was built by Rod
Penrose he just used a brand new block. They are surprisingly cheap and brand new, so you should expect no problems or cracking.
An engine that big would be nice. My current is 2054 and a type one. My next engine will be 2.5L and a Type 4.
Smiley
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Yeah, that's a pretty good point. I'll just do a tiny upgrade and get the 1600cc to a 1641cc and then just run this engine into the ground. By the
time it gives up, I'll have enough to do a monster Type IV build as well.
We'll see what happens, just have to get the new engine up and running so I can stop relying on the misses car. That and I really want to get back to
driving Zelda in the heat.
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Smiley
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 10:40 PM |
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Personally I wouldn't bother pulled the engine down to a short block just to fit a set of 87mm pistons and cylinders. You're not going to get a
noticeable performance boost by doing this mod. You're certainly not going to be able to feel it in the seat of your pants.
That's a lot of time and a bit of money to spend for no real gain.
Just run with the stock 1600 and save your time and money for the next engine.
A stock engine will be nice and reliable and gives enough power and good fuel economy if driven gently.
You can do whatever you want, it's your dub. I just think that there's more important things to spend your money on than an extra 56cc.
Smiley
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 10:51 PM |
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Fair enough!
I guess the money that I save from not doing this tiny performance upgrade, I'll spend it on a very nice set of wheels that will look awesome.
Need to save money for something else that will surprise a lot of people on here.
I guess I shall just continue to prod along and keep doing bits and pieces until I get enough for the big surprise.
Just need to get the current engine working properly and then I can continue going on with the current plan.
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Smiley
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 10:53 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
Just need to get the current engine working properly and then I can continue going on with the current plan.
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Well get out in the garage and fix her then!!! 
Smiley
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 10:59 PM |
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Wish it was that simple. Might go and take a night photo of her where she currently is with my new fancy camera...
I need the cash, I spent too much in Europe and am only just making ends meet. Pay day is soon though!
Which means more cash spent on making Zelda one mean Germanlook 1303S.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 24th, 2012 at 11:16 PM |
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Quick snap from tonight.
Currently her grave. We'll see what happens.
Going to fix it as soon as possible. I want to drive Zelda again so badly!
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Joel
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| posted on January 25th, 2012 at 12:02 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
It has to be the fuel pump then, I'm going to try the pushrod and if that fails, I'll just install an electric fuel pump.
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If ICTs are anything like Kdogs you'll need a pressure regulator as well if you electric.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 25th, 2012 at 01:41 PM |
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What do you mean ICTs and Kdogs?
I am getting a pressure regulator anyway just to be on the safe side.
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snitz
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| posted on January 25th, 2012 at 04:21 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
It has to be the fuel pump then, I'm going to try the pushrod and if that fails, I'll just install an electric fuel pump.
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If ICTs are anything like Kdogs you'll need a pressure regulator as well if you electric.
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Aren't 3-4psi Facet pumps okay without regs?..Do higher psi pumps without regs cause pulsing in the fuel lines causing havoc with floats and needle
and seats?..sorry to ask but you have got me intrigued..lol
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Smiley
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| posted on January 25th, 2012 at 04:48 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by snitz
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
It has to be the fuel pump then, I'm going to try the pushrod and if that fails, I'll just install an electric fuel pump.
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If ICTs are anything like Kdogs you'll need a pressure regulator as well if you electric.
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Aren't 3-4psi Facet pumps okay without regs?..Do higher psi pumps without regs cause pulsing in the fuel lines causing havoc with floats and needle
and seats?..sorry to ask but you have got me intrigued..lol
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Kadrons don't like anything more than 2psi max fuel pressure. Otherwise it just pushes past the needle and seat, overfilling the float bowl and
spilling out into the throat of the carby.
Smiley
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 25th, 2012 at 08:04 PM |
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We have semi-lift off!
Engine started and I got a video of it too, not going to call it first start, but will call it second start (first successful one).
You can watch it here. Enjoy!
Replaced the little rod thingy in the fuel pump, took out the one that came with the engine originally and replaced it with the one that I had in the
old engine and booyeah, she started after some pumping. Now the carbs just need to be tuned, the heater hoses reattached and the pre-heats on the
exhaust need to be blocked off, then we have real lift off!
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Joel
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| posted on January 25th, 2012 at 08:27 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
Kadrons don't like anything more than 2psi max fuel pressure. Otherwise it just pushes past the needle and seat, overfilling the float bowl and
spilling out into the throat of the carby.
Smiley
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Yep and I bet those ICTs are no different.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 25th, 2012 at 08:29 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
Yep and I bet those ICTs are no different.
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I'm taking her to carby specialist to get her tuned. He'll be able to tell me what is needed, right?
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Joel
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| posted on January 25th, 2012 at 08:35 PM |
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If the stock mechanical pump is working fine you should be able to leave good enough alone unless the carbs need rejetting.
was this new engine a runner out of a car or built up and not used?
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 25th, 2012 at 08:39 PM |
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Yep, sure is working fine, and the dual carbs have never been used, so they just need a tune.
It was running 18 months ago, then teared down and sold to me teared down.
So I have built it all up myself and yeah.
Was definitely a good learning experience that is for sure!
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 Bizarre
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| posted on January 25th, 2012 at 09:04 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
I'm taking her to carby specialist to get her tuned. He'll be able to tell me what is needed, right?
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Make sure he knows Webers and ICT's
No good paying for some one to learn 
Futue te ipsum!!!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on January 25th, 2012 at 09:07 PM |
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Thanks for the kind words Bizarre, I'll head down there (not in the bug) first to make sure he does know his way around them.
They're EMPI branded carbs, 34's, are they Weber's or ICT's?
I'm going to assume ICT's. But don't want to seem like a fool.
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Bizarre
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| posted on January 25th, 2012 at 09:09 PM |
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I am 99% sure they are the EMPI copy of ICTs
Same as the EMPI copies if IDF's
Futue te ipsum!!!
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