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 Lateral
A.k.a.: Greg Hanley
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| posted on March 15th, 2013 at 06:45 PM |
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Thanks Ian
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 matberry
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| posted on March 15th, 2013 at 06:46 PM |
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Running boards are bolted to the body and won't be effected
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Lateral
A.k.a.: Greg Hanley
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| posted on March 15th, 2013 at 06:47 PM |
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Oh yeah! Your right!
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vwo60
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| posted on March 15th, 2013 at 06:48 PM |
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All depends on how well you want the job to come out, you are the one that has to look at the work you have done and be happy with it, i would not cut
the body or the muffler as you are treating the symptom not the cause of the problem, center the body and check the engine is central in the engine
bay, this way you will not get a surprise when you fit the new engine, vw54 i have a 60 model beetle with a 36HP engine bay, it has a 2054 with
44IDF's and it all fits including closing the engine cover wiithout cutting anything, all i do is remove the tappet covers before i fit the engine to
the car.
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Lateral
A.k.a.: Greg Hanley
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| posted on March 15th, 2013 at 07:12 PM |
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Good point
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Lateral
A.k.a.: Greg Hanley
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| posted on March 17th, 2013 at 07:59 AM |
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Hi Guys
What "issues" am I likely to encounter should I choose to reposition the body?
ie: breaking the seal between the body and chassis will cause leaks?
Are there any things that I need to disconnect, unplug etc prior to unbolting the body or is it a simple matter of:
1. unbolt body,
2. raise body a few mm off the pan
3. move body to the left 10mm
4. lower the body
5. Rebolt the body to the pan.
Regards
Greg
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HappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
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| posted on March 17th, 2013 at 08:56 AM |
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If you know exactly how much it needs to needs to move, take an accurate measurement, then un-do the four M10 rear body bolts.
Ideally, a Porto-Power is used , if not available you may be able to push the body across using the good-old VW jack. Use a suitable diameter and
length of pipe over the shaft of the jack, and push between the chassis and a 'hard point' on the body. When the measurement is 4-5 mm PAST the
desired point, tighten the 4 bolts and release the jack. If not far enough, repeat the process, taking it further before tightening the 4 bolts.
Good luck.
Another Greg
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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Lateral
A.k.a.: Greg Hanley
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| posted on March 17th, 2013 at 09:16 AM |
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Thanks Greg!
Do you see a problem in using the distance between the top bolt of the shock towers as a reference point?
Also, I assume the the 4-5mm PAST the desired point is due to some "spring back"?
Also, are you refering to the 4 M10 bolts that are under the rear seat?
I would also think that I would need to loosen the bolts on the trailing arms as well?
Regards
Greg
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HappyDaze
A.k.a.: Greg Mackie
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| posted on March 17th, 2013 at 09:43 AM |
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Doesn't matter what you use for reference points, although if it is the engine bay that is 10mm out, then that's where you should be measuring. If
it needs to move 10mm, then that's how far it has to go at the engine bay. The shock tower measurement may only change by 2-3mm?
I find a Plumb-bob is the best way to accurately measure these movements. Mark a 'X' on the floor down from a suitable point on the chassis, then
another under another on the body [close to where it needs to move]. Alternatively, you could make a simple 'pointer', attached to the chassis, with
the 'pointer' near the part of the body that needs to move.
May require some 'Lateral Thinking'.......had to get that one in.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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Lateral
A.k.a.: Greg Hanley
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| posted on March 17th, 2013 at 09:51 AM |
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vwo60
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| posted on March 17th, 2013 at 10:04 AM |
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Put your mock up engine block back into the car and use it as a center line to set the engine in the middle of the engine bay, if this is already on
center then you might have a problem with the car being hit at one time, i would leave the two of the front bolts loose in place at the front of the
car and break the seal, once the seal is broken you should be able to move the back end of the car by simply lifting it and gently moving to wear ever
you require it to be, if you are concerned about leaking use a sealing compound between the body and the rubber before you put it back together.
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Lateral
A.k.a.: Greg Hanley
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| posted on March 17th, 2013 at 10:12 AM |
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Thanks mate.
Regards
Greg
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Lateral
A.k.a.: Greg Hanley
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| posted on April 4th, 2013 at 03:45 PM |
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Update:
I decided to unbolt the body from the chassis hoping that it would simply be a matter of me gently pushing the body over the required
amount......well, after 2 hours of pushing, jacking, nudging, swearing and levering not a single millimeter was moved!
I'm going to jack up the drivers side oft he car overnight and see if gravity over a number of hours might help.
.....and yes, I'm sure I've loosened every bolt
If somebody doesn't come up with another idea and this doesn't work it's off to Westie to get the muffler modified.
Regards
Greg
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on April 4th, 2013 at 03:53 PM |
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list down all the bolts you have undone and we can check if you have done them all !
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Lateral
A.k.a.: Greg Hanley
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| posted on April 4th, 2013 at 04:49 PM |
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He of little faith!
Ok, I loosened quite a bit the following:
1. 18 (9 x 2) x underneath near the running boards
2. 4 (2 x 2) x underneath in front (Frame head)
3. 4 x inside car under rear seat
4. 2 (1 x 2) x near top of rear shock towers
5. 2 x under fuel tank
Total = 30
Regards
Greg
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on April 4th, 2013 at 07:57 PM |
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6 under the rear seat 
Check the front seat belt anchors don't tie in body and pan
I'm not so sure just loosening them will be enough either...... The heater channel bolts normally pierce the gasket when inserted, so at least those
would need removing completely IMO
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on April 4th, 2013 at 08:15 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Lateral
He of little faith!
Ok, I loosened quite a bit the following:
1. 18 (9 x 2) x underneath near the running boards
2. 4 (2 x 2) x underneath in front (Frame head)
3. 4 x inside car under rear seat
4. 2 (1 x 2) x near top of rear shock towers
5. 2 x under fuel tank
Total = 30
Regards
Greg
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What about the two under the rear seat that screw into the rear torsion housing ? They are located in the corners near where the top of the back seat
(pivots) mounts to the sides. So total of 6 inside.
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Lateral
A.k.a.: Greg Hanley
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| posted on April 4th, 2013 at 08:50 PM |
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Hi Craig
I just had another look and inside and can't see the 2 extra bolts you mentioned......remember that the car is a 1967 model.
Can you send me a photo?
Daimo, I'll check the seat belt bolts tomorrow. I removed a few of the heater channel bolts to see how much movement I would have and there seemed to
be enough for me to be able to move the body and leave the bolts in.
Regards
Greg
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on April 4th, 2013 at 09:02 PM |
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You can see them just above the torsion bar caps from outside the car Greg
From inside the car they are right under the back edge of the rear seat, higher and further back from the other 4..... Adjacent to the hinge for the
top half of the seat
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on April 4th, 2013 at 10:17 PM |
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Greg, I have sent you a photo of the bolts in my 63 and 68 model.
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on April 5th, 2013 at 08:01 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Craig TorrensWhat about the two under the rear seat that screw into the rear torsion housing ? They are located in the corners near
where the top of the back seat (pivots) mounts to the sides. So total of 6 inside.
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Hi
A lot of cars from the factory never had bolts in that location.
Steve
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matberry
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| posted on April 5th, 2013 at 08:06 AM |
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^^ don't know about that Steve, pre 60 (or there abouts) had 4 M10 (2 each side) and post had the two.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Lateral
A.k.a.: Greg Hanley
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| posted on April 5th, 2013 at 08:20 AM |
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Hi guys
I had a look at Craig's photos and inside the car and guess what?
I found the 2 "rogue" frigging bolts!
Lucky I did as I was about to get the biggest baddest Porta Power possible!
Anyway, I'll loosen these and see what happens and let you all know the results.
Regards
Greg
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on April 5th, 2013 at 08:26 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Craig TorrensWhat about the two under the rear seat that screw into the rear torsion housing ? They are located in the corners near
where the top of the back seat (pivots) mounts to the sides. So total of 6 inside.
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Hi
A lot of cars from the factory never had bolts in that location.
Steve
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Hi Steve, I think you will find only late models didn't have them ie 74,75,76.
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on April 5th, 2013 at 08:45 AM |
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Hi
Sorry I forgot we were talking about biblical cars here, correction, my 72 & 73 bugs never had them, not sure about earlier cars, I always fit
them to my own cars, the hole usually has a bit of tape over it.
Steve
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matberry
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| posted on April 5th, 2013 at 09:05 AM |
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Ahh, your talking about that foam filled rubbish that we don't even consider to be beetles, more like a poor Indian copy........
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on April 5th, 2013 at 09:12 AM |
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Yeh the ones that have all the good parts to make your old stuff seem a little modern
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Lateral
A.k.a.: Greg Hanley
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| posted on April 5th, 2013 at 09:57 AM |
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Update!
I totally removed the extra bolts and it looks as though there is not really any room in the holes so they will need to be "elongated" if I can
moved the body.
I also found that the drivers side seat belt bracket was hitting the body so I removed it.
I then lifted all of the glued down carpet.
I then pushed, shoved and levered to no avail.
I have not yet totally removed any of the other bolts and would prefer not to if I don't need to but I am thinking that I may need to.
What are the best locations to use as "leverage" points?
Regards
Greg
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on April 5th, 2013 at 11:04 AM |
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Lever under the corners...start at the rear
If I mention the sledge again will it be taken in jest this time round 
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on April 5th, 2013 at 11:25 AM |
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Hi
Would it help if you put a big bit of wood across the rear of the car, about under the bumper bracket and lift the body with a jack and then try
moving the body
Steve
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