| [ Total Views: 1994 | Total Replies: 45 | Thread Id: 105394 ] |
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 Adsman
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| posted on April 27th, 2011 at 05:03 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
| Quote: | Originally
posted by waltermitty
| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
ok so lets say average $175 per m3.
ok 18 x 10 ummm 5 inch? I wont be driving any heavy vehicles.
so where was I? oh yeah 18 x 10 x 0.127 = 22.86m3 = $4k just for concrete
x 2 the price for reo, plastic and labor only the concreting itself. My team and I will be doing the digging, leveling, compacting, plastic, foam
separators etc...
yeah 8k is doable. My half bro does sheds and has been doing for well over 20 year, he actually built my shed. Got some friends of his who do
concreting for a living which will join the project
at a mates rate  dam I feel cheap. My half bros idea I swear!
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Your budget is missing BEER all concreters drink their weight in beer immediately the job is screed. I believe the rate increases for mate rates. M
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is 200 buks in beer good? lol. I wouldn't know I don't drink.
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that should get them by till the pub opens
What my garage isn't messy........Well chaos is a form of order isn't it?
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vlad01
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| posted on April 27th, 2011 at 05:51 PM |
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lol
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Austcan
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| posted on March 12th, 2014 at 02:09 PM |
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How much is concrete if you make it yourself per cubic meter
| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
anyone know a rough current price for concrete per m3 ?
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Austcan
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| posted on March 12th, 2014 at 02:12 PM |
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Making concrete yourself
What is the cost of a cubic meter of concrete if you buy all materials and mix yourself, is there a big savings ,less the sore back lol |
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Austcan
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| posted on March 12th, 2014 at 02:15 PM |
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Slab thickness
Given you have a well prepped sub grade base, is a 100 mm concrete slab with 10mm rebar ok for a slab in a house ? |
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HappyDaze
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| posted on March 12th, 2014 at 02:23 PM |
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House!!!!!!!!....I thought you were building something important, such as a shed. 
One slab won't be enough.......you may even need a keg. 
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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Governor
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| posted on March 12th, 2014 at 02:33 PM |
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You have only made 3 posts and all about concrete?
I am thinking you are on the wrong forum??
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Austcan
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| posted on March 12th, 2014 at 02:36 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by HappyDaze
House!!!!!!!!....I thought you were building something important, such as a shed.
One slab won't be enough.......you may even need a keg.
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,, no just a house slab, no shed at this time, 100 mm should be ok ? |
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Austcan
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| posted on March 12th, 2014 at 02:41 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Governor
You have only made 3 posts and all about concrete?
I am thinking you are on the wrong forum??
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thought I was in general convo, is there a concrete chat ? |
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vassy66T1
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| posted on March 12th, 2014 at 03:49 PM |
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You would be wise to have an engineer give some design to your slab.
There are basic designs but even these are particular to the building as to where external and internal beams go.
Send me a PM if you want a basic slab engineering to compare with. Anything less than that is money down the drain. Your slab is your major termite
barrier in a home.
I can't believe anyone even mentioned in this thread in the past the idea of not using reinforcing steel ... are you f#$@!in nuts!!!
Steel holds the slab together in tension. Doing your own mix is a very bad idea for a house slab as the quality control will be up the creek.
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vlad01
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| posted on March 12th, 2014 at 04:45 PM |
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whats this thread?
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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modnrod
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| posted on March 12th, 2014 at 11:08 PM |
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We had a new concrete base just poured where I work for a new antenna base. It's a 13.6m antenna dish, and has to comply with minimum wind loading
ratings, which means a certain volume and weight and size, etc, etc, etc.
Anyway, I was quite surprised when the job was done for only $325/m3, I spose the 50-odd cubic meters had something to do with the discount.
Normal quotes here are around the $390/m3.
Oh, and as for reo being necessary?
I don't see any in the Colosseum and that's still standing, but I can't see many 200yr old reinforced concrete floors still standing anywhere.
Hhmmm.
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bajachris88
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| posted on March 13th, 2014 at 06:34 AM |
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You show me where in the colloseum a concrete floor with no reo exists?
In the colloseum I only see bricks and mortar.
Standards exists for a reason. I'm sure structural engineers from a registered NATA testing facility could give a thorough low-down for the need of
reo.
200 years ago, typical domestic buildings involved brick and motar walls (excluding timber walls), with timber beams spanning across the walls and
floors on top. Floors were elevated off the ground. Back then they didn't have concrete trucks. Pouring slabs would have been heavily laborous if a
bloke needed to shift couple tonne of concrete. I'd feel sorry for the donkey thats gotta tow that cart. He also wouldn't necessarily have town
water to mix it in with either. Hence why you don't see many 
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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HappyDaze
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| posted on March 13th, 2014 at 07:43 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vassy66T1
You would be wise to have an engineer give some design to your slab.
There are basic designs but even these are particular to the building as to where external and internal beams go.
Send me a PM if you want a basic slab engineering to compare with. Anything less than that is money down the drain. Your slab is your major termite
barrier in a home.
I can't believe anyone even mentioned in this thread in the past the idea of not using reinforcing steel ... are you f#$@!in nuts!!!
Steel holds the slab together in tension. Doing your own mix is a very bad idea for a house slab as the quality control will be up the creek.
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Wholeheartedly agree.
A concrete slab is like a re-built engine.......if it's not done just right, you will be sorry forever. At least an engine can be done again without
too much trouble, and without the use of a jack-hammer 
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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mactaylor
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| posted on March 13th, 2014 at 09:31 AM |
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hand mixed crete is so 20 years ago! We do a bit for our tanks but not much anymore, Water to cement ratio is what gives you your MPA or strength, as
a guide you will require approx 380kgs of cement with 170 litres of h2o and approx 2000kgs of graded quality 20mm conmix to achieve 25MPA at 28 days
for 1m3 of concrete, this is with no admixtures or water reducers. The biggest day I have ever done is 8m3 hand mixed by me and i can tell you it
wasnt fun. A good bloke can mix 1m3 in about 40 minutes. The main no no is to make the concrete like piss, nearly all concreters do it and it is very
detrimental to the concrete. Also if youre going to attempt to pour it your self the reinforcing needs careful attention make sure it is placed where
the specs say it should be, not just poured over and left at the bottom of the crete, it is no use having there if it cant do its job.
EVERLAST CONCRETE TANKS
1800 552 123
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vlad01
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| posted on March 13th, 2014 at 02:40 PM |
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btw, I did get my slab done just coming up to 2 years ago now.
about 200m2 floor space including apron. 6" thick with reo. They used a high grade mix for strength, semi burnt finish and slab cut. All up I got the
whole job done including, 3 man labor, reo, sand, bar chairs, plastic, expansion joint foam etc.. was grand total of $8300
I did all the prep work and we had extra helpers during the pouring.
Still stoked at the results. its smooth, level and hard that hammers bounce off when dropped without damaging the surface.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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