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Author: Subject:  proud to be a T25 owner
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posted on April 23rd, 2014 at 09:22 PM



wow, really? I assumed that was just part of the back seat.....maybe it was back in the 80's when kombi's were stiil air cooled (just) and cool :P

Did you take those seat swivels?




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posted on April 25th, 2014 at 07:23 PM



So after my broken fuel line incident the fuel lines were top priority. I changed all the lines for SAE 30R9 spec.

While pulling the injectors and fuel rails out I also noticed that the injectors sat somewhat off kilter, turns out the seals that hold the injectors into the manifolds where well past there use by. One was missing entirely! Lord know how it was sealing. I could only get the seals in lots of a dozen, so I have 2 whole sets left over for anyone who has the same problem. Say $15 for a set? (4 top seals, 4 bottom seals) The pictures show how badly the old seals where swollen.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpsffd067c8.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps39ea520e.jpg

I also have finished the window tint, if only the weather would hold out I would post a photo.

Quote:
Originally posted by Boozo
wow, really? I assumed that was just part of the back seat.....maybe it was back in the 80's when kombi's were stiil air cooled (just) and cool :P

Did you take those seat swivels?

Nah, they are welded in. With is a bummer, maybe if I have more time when I come down some time. That or you have to start work on that thing!




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posted on April 25th, 2014 at 08:45 PM



Good work, I love how Volksies look after you and break at home, my T3 did the same thing but it was the plastic water hose that comes off the #3 cyl head by memory. Better check that too Nils. Mine was after a Sydney trip towing the car trailer. :)



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posted on April 26th, 2014 at 07:48 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
Good work, I love how Volksies look after you and break at home, my T3 did the same thing but it was the plastic water hose that comes off the #3 cyl head by memory. Better check that too Nils. Mine was after a Sydney trip towing the car trailer. :)

I am pretty shocked on how well this thing behaves although I come across more and more worn out pieces.

Cleaned out the window squirter lines today and fitted new squirters to the front panel. As well as polishing out the HI beam lenses, which made the world of difference to the lighting.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpsd93cb036.jpg
And finally some photos of the new window tint,
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps6082230b.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps98aa9bac.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpsee1b4730.jpg
Also touched on what plans lie ahead for the van, I have a small temptation to lift it alittle to make some more space underneath for some of my plans. Anybody know wether I can just bolt on syncro front and rear arms,spindles,springs ect and just leave the front axles blank?
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps788fc1b6.jpg




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posted on April 26th, 2014 at 09:23 PM



Syncro rear arms are the same. You would need the Syncro front subframe which bolts on to a syncro but requires some serious mods to just bolt up to a 2WD. Check out the PreRunner Vanagon thread on TheSamba for some tips on lifting a 2WD http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=389820 

Syncros use different springs and shocks to get extra height in the rear, raising the rear of a 2WD is harder on CV angles as the syncro gearbox sits lower in the chassis.




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posted on April 26th, 2014 at 10:08 PM



Thanks for the info. I have spent a bit of time on the samba thread, I'm not completely convinced on the front end mods. The cv angle is not an issue as i plan on using a Subaru gearbox, which will drop the output shafts 55mm



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posted on April 26th, 2014 at 10:14 PM



That was a good call mackaymanx. Seems they are quite capable off road.



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posted on April 27th, 2014 at 10:23 PM



nils cant help himself....just road it and use it to tow the Baja



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posted on May 24th, 2014 at 09:35 PM



Been a little while, Been doin' alot of driving. Have managed to clock up a little under 6000km since purchasing this bus. Went back to Queensland again last week to see the family and attended Dubs by the Abbey while I was there too.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps0f1558a3.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpsc55eb0af.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpse3a2bb07.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpsc7ffc496.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/IMG_07271_zps88245f72.jpg


Though the van did come down with a case of VS on the way home, so have the recommended capacitor on order and hope to install that once it shows up. Fingers crossed.
Now that I am home again, I thought a bit of time wrenching was in order. Spent Saturday installing remote central locking, The old solenoids were not compatible so are now changed out to the more common style and have a satisfying CHUNK noise instead of that weird winding noise. The tailgate also now unlocks every time instead of most of the time.
As a result, I have 4 original solenoids lying here all in working order. Anybody chasing some? free to a good home
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps587535c7.jpg


Also picked up a K&N filter for less than a paper, Normally I won't use these but for a road car it seem convenient
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps0440c3f2.jpg




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posted on May 25th, 2014 at 09:35 PM



Good move on the central locking kit.

I replaced my factory set with a $100 aftermarket kit which has never failed me and is keyless - brilliant!

The K & N filter is a good investment.




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posted on May 26th, 2014 at 05:40 AM



Yeah keyless locks sure are great, I used the kit from Jaycar and have a alarm to match still to be installed



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posted on June 2nd, 2014 at 05:35 PM



Hi guys, few things going on this fortnight.

Added some power points front and rear, Changed the front ciggy lighter for a USB (that's all you us them for now days anyways) and added a dual USB/power plug to the rear. Both have a blue back light.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpsdd5597b0.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpsd62cddc0.jpg

Little more detailing went on, on the outside, Gave the front and rear badges a little bit of love. I can't bring myself to spend the $50 for chrome ones and this looks nice and neat now at least, If I had to be honest the paint I used being a wheel paint (I was hoping for some fleck) turned out to be texture which I'm not real happy with, but will do for now.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpsbc697d88.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps416aecac.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps30015fb8.jpg

Did the capacitor mod to the AFM wiring harness. I know most open the box up and go internal, but mine was so well sealed up I decided not to mess with it. The capacitor sits under the boot of the AFM plug which is now full of silicon. Very happy with this recommendation actually, Not sure if it has cured my long trip VS but time will tell on that one. I has however smoothed out a lot of the bucking the ole' vanagon has, on backing off the gas hard it is gone gone and that low gear kicking as you pass the top of the torque curve is cleaned up a lot. At car park speed it is also very civilised now. Generally is just a lot more forgiving to drive now, I think with some new cv's it would feel just like a new car. Best $8 spent to date.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpse4e7f65c.jpg

And lastly, something I've been wanting to do for awhile now. Put the passenger swivel seat base in.
I got them pretty rough a few weeks ago out of the old mans '82 rusting in the backyard. A sand blasting, coat of epoxy and just some rattle can semi gloss back looks new again
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpsa2c6a145.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps1634ba06.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpsf1ae045c.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps8f10daa6.jpg

Still looking for a few parts for my brake and subi conversion, check my signature line and PM me if you have any. Cheers




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posted on June 2nd, 2014 at 05:59 PM



You won't regret it. Got this fired up today after a bit of fiddling.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vDnML5MUcUE/U4wgCpfwuRI/AAAAAAAAAPg/PYG_paKVcgk/s800/IMG_20140602_145324.jpg




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posted on June 6th, 2014 at 09:11 PM



Quote:


Did the capacitor mod to the AFM wiring harness. I know most open the box up and go internal, but mine was so well sealed up I decided not to mess with it. The capacitor sits under the boot of the AFM plug which is now full of silicon. Very happy with this recommendation actually, Not sure if it has cured my long trip VS but time will tell on that one. I has however smoothed out a lot of the bucking the ole' vanagon has, on backing off the gas hard it is gone gone and that low gear kicking as you pass the top of the torque curve is cleaned up a lot. At car park speed it is also very civilised now. Generally is just a lot more forgiving to drive now, I think with some new cv's it would feel just like a new car. Best $8 spent to date.


Curious what you mean by this mod Nils as I am having what sounds to be the same issues.




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posted on June 7th, 2014 at 07:50 AM



It is supposeably very common. The yanks call it vanagon syndrome (VS) figured it was a thing here too. I do most of my VW related research over on the American and German based sites. If you want hundreds of pages to read on the subject type syndrome into the samba vanagon/eurovan search engine.

Or I'll make it easy and here is the link to the original VW service bulletin from 1992

http://www.members.shaw.ca/bilbo/WBafm.html 

the bulletin states to use a 10uF capacitor, but 20years of trial and error by enthusiasts has come up with the magic number of 22uF 16-25v tantalum capacitor.




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posted on June 7th, 2014 at 07:56 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by mackaymanx
You won't regret it. Got this fired up today after a bit of fiddling.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vDnML5MUcUE/U4wgCpfwuRI/AAAAAAAAAPg/PYG_paKVcgk/s800/IMG_20140602_145324.jpg


the subi motor looked as lot smaller in there, I am thinking to make a throttle body relocation neck that allows the use of the OG VW aircleaner snorkel arrangement. Or does it look that the subi intake manifold would hit it?




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posted on June 7th, 2014 at 09:44 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by baghall
Quote:


Did the capacitor mod to the AFM wiring harness. I know most open the box up and go internal, but mine was so well sealed up I decided not to mess with it. The capacitor sits under the boot of the AFM plug which is now full of silicon. Very happy with this recommendation actually, Not sure if it has cured my long trip VS but time will tell on that one. I has however smoothed out a lot of the bucking the ole' vanagon has, on backing off the gas hard it is gone gone and that low gear kicking as you pass the top of the torque curve is cleaned up a lot. At car park speed it is also very civilised now. Generally is just a lot more forgiving to drive now, I think with some new cv's it would feel just like a new car. Best $8 spent to date.


Curious what you mean by this mod Nils as I am having what sounds to be the same issues.


Interesting, in all my years I've never heard of this one. Surprisingly my '91 has no issues like this at all, low speed response and smoothness all good, max torque kicking.....what the??? very interesting.

Good work Nils




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posted on June 7th, 2014 at 05:55 PM



If I didn't spend some time on the side of the highway scratching my head wondering what the hell happened on the way back from the abbey the other week, I would have told you its a bunch hokey and is just an excuse people use to justify poorly maintained cars. I spent days looking for an air leak/fuel starve/struggling injector and used this as a hail Mary move, But this made a fantastic difference to the vans composure.

Seems to be more common on high KM vans. Wonder how many vans have been given up on for such a easy fix after spending big money try every fix imaginable with no change while VW service have know about it for 20+ years




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posted on June 7th, 2014 at 06:27 PM



Only high milage, phew. I'm only aty 420 000km so should be right for a while ;)



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posted on June 7th, 2014 at 09:56 PM



i have 653000 km on mine and smooth as silk ! once i fit a new gearbox lol . crown and pinion bearing and mainshaft bearing has got noisy dyna truck style :-(
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posted on June 8th, 2014 at 11:54 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by nils
the subi motor looked as lot smaller in there, I am thinking to make a throttle body relocation neck that allows the use of the OG VW aircleaner snorkel arrangement. Or does it look that the subi intake manifold would hit it?


Ok I wedged an original aircleaner in where it should go and this is the result. Not enough room and this is in a syncro where the engine sits lower.

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posted on June 8th, 2014 at 02:33 PM



Thanks for that mate, though it does look like only the fuel an vacuum lines are a problem, guess time will tell



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posted on June 8th, 2014 at 06:01 PM



Except for too much eating and drinking, not as much is going on this long weekend. A little bit of kombi time was had while the girlfriend was in a food coma.
I finally got the wiring in for my heated seats that seemed a good idea for the up and coming snow season, The seats go to the trimmers on Tuesday to add the pads as well as a rebolster and add a lumber pad to them.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps72906f24.jpg

I decided to completely hide all the wiring well under the carpet. So out came every inch of carpet factory deadening and centre console, definatly no rust here.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps2a843732.jpg

And then things got crazy.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpse3179b36.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zps9ceedeae.jpg

The dash, doors and front end are yet to be done, waiting on when I do the air conditioning and power windows. I also started filling all the rear half cavities and sliding door with this close cell foam and MLV combo which is a great product, But run out of contact glue :fakesniff:

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/baja53/2014/temporary_zpsafd5543e.jpg




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posted on June 8th, 2014 at 06:19 PM



Looks great mate, wow I wish any of my old cars looked that nice under the carpet! All I ever found was broken glass and rust.. where did you get the heated seat elements from? I'm thinking about doing that to my buggy.



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posted on June 8th, 2014 at 07:57 PM



Ebayed them mate. The seller is overseas, but has fantastic feedback and service. I'm very happy with the service and the quality is good,can't tell you how well they work yet give me a few days on that front.

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/151007991914?txnId=1089980272005 




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posted on June 9th, 2014 at 03:45 AM



My seat swivel looks good :P

the capacitor trick looks like it may be the origin of the $20 HP chip you can buy on Ebay which fuck with your AFM signal....and don't work. good to see there is one aplication it works for, even if it isnt HP.

What brand is that sound deadener mat?




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posted on June 9th, 2014 at 05:45 AM



It's very worn out actually, my passsenger seat rattles when not occupied, maybe some teflon sheet iin the runners or just squash them flat a bit.
. The deadening is resomat and comes from trufit carpets along with all the other foams and felts. I'm adding a little under 40Kg in deadening :no:

HP chip and kombi in the same sentance :lol: there is also a VW loom extension that plugs between the AFM and its harness that goes for well over $100




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posted on June 9th, 2014 at 01:30 PM



You have PM

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posted on June 9th, 2014 at 06:05 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by matberry
Quote:
Originally posted by baghall
Quote:


Did the capacitor mod to the AFM wiring harness. I know most open the box up and go internal, but mine was so well sealed up I decided not to mess with it. The capacitor sits under the boot of the AFM plug which is now full of silicon. Very happy with this recommendation actually, Not sure if it has cured my long trip VS but time will tell on that one. I has however smoothed out a lot of the bucking the ole' vanagon has, on backing off the gas hard it is gone gone and that low gear kicking as you pass the top of the torque curve is cleaned up a lot. At car park speed it is also very civilised now. Generally is just a lot more forgiving to drive now, I think with some new cv's it would feel just like a new car. Best $8 spent to date.


Curious what you mean by this mod Nils as I am having what sounds to be the same issues.


Interesting, in all my years I've never heard of this one. Surprisingly my '91 has no issues like this at all, low speed response and smoothness all good, max torque kicking.....what the??? very interesting.

Good work Nils


Matt I've been having the exact same problem. Put it down to my driving but I have never done it in any other vehicle.

Thanks for the link Nils. Will have to do this as soon as I get some more time.




68 Baja - It's a growing pain!
58 Baja ute - and the pain spreads!
85 T3 Kombi - still growing
89 T3 Kombi - parts car
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posted on June 9th, 2014 at 07:04 PM



Yes please sir, PM sent

not sure whether 85's are early or late though. The difference is the caliper attachment point




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