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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on January 12th, 2004 at 07:45 PM |
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Have a look at this website. They dont have the application guide yet, but there is a product list.
http://www.khsurfacetech.aust.com/index_autoretail.html
This site is the same, no application guide, but the products are listed. I recommend the 2Ktech Septone body filler
http://www.septone.com.au/HTML/Product%20Catalogue/automo1.htm#
Now check this site out, they have heaps of info about small body work and rust repairs and spray painting etc.
http://www.ridgeap.com/tips/diytips.htm
Hope this helps
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 kombi_kid
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Good Kid too many projects
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| posted on January 12th, 2004 at 09:41 PM |
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thanks pete!!!
so basically u get it all straight then spray it over with putty then give a light sand whip it back then another buildcoat the a rub back then top
coat?
cheers
rhys
it aint just cool its aircool'd
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 wrecker67
A.k.a.: craig
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 11:20 AM |
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if you have a lot of swells to fill,you can get a spray bog,but do recommend you use a speed file or make a large file to suit the side of the
kombie.you can make it worse if you are not carefull.but you do get a more even fill with it,not like mixing plastic filler or 2k filler,which can be
applied over paint for small dents etc,i use a brand called impa..most plastic filler the repair should be bare metal....
cheers,,, |
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Astro Boy
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 11:34 AM |
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dont worry hellbus im keeping it the same colour.
Do i need to get it back to bare metal? i am doing it on the cheap and there is very minimal rust.
after filler & primer how many coats of the paint do i use and do i put a clear coat on?(acrylic being used)
Save water, drive an air cooled Volkswagen.
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 07:17 PM |
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Have a look at the pics I have been doing for the beetle. I did not go back to bare metal where the paint that was on the vehicle was stable.
I am not doing a restoration, only a repaint. It still looks very nice, but if you want 100% confidence it is done properly going back to metal is the
proper way.
It will take a lot longer and cost more in primer and abrasives.
You will need about 6 good coats of colour in acrylic, so you have enough to rub back and polish. 8 if you want to really rub it back and make it like
glass.
This is a bit relative though, some painters may thin paint down more than others and some might put on the coats a lot wetter.
It is a matter of preference, technique and experience. Unfortunaltley I cannot help you with those.
I suggest you try painting an old panel first and buff that up.
You do not need to put clear on solid colours. especially acrylic.
Some two pack solids are made up as clear over base though.
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Sky
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 07:32 PM |
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Hi again hellbus
Just wondering how much supplies I would need to respray grimace. litres of paint.
I recently painted a yellow bug with cans, I used the tecnique of, primer, sanded cleaned, 6 coats of paint.
This was after I stripped paint to bare metal.
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 10:45 PM |
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You would need half of what you would need to paint a kombi.
Unfortunatley it is not an exact science. It depends also on your use of the gun, mistakes made, pressure, wastage, coverage of actual colour.
The respray I just did on our Beetle used $400 in paint alone, and that was trade price.
I used 2.5 litres of colour and 2 litres of clear. As it is two pak it is not getting rubbed or buffed. Well it doesn't need it anyway cause I
got only about 5 specks of dust on the whole car, and there is no peel.
If you are painting yourself in acrylic you will need more paint as you will be rubbing it back and buffing it.
Like I say, there is no exact science, but 4 litres of colour, 4 litres of clear if it is a metallic, and 20 litres of A grade thinner will keep you
on track for a Beetle or type 3.
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Sky
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| posted on January 13th, 2004 at 10:47 PM |
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ahh ok, so I would lightly sand the car at the end and buff?
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Astro Boy
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| posted on January 14th, 2004 at 07:39 AM |
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thanks so much hellbus. i dont know where you find the time to work, continue working on the beetle and answer all our num-nut questions. it is muchly
appreciated. :thumb
Save water, drive an air cooled Volkswagen.
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Sky
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| posted on January 16th, 2004 at 07:48 PM |
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Helbus,
I know of a Paint Operator who sells cheap cheap paint, Its Unicolour by concept paints, ever used this paint before?
the price is $75 for 4Ltr of Colour, $50 for 20L thinners and 4Ltr of primer for $30.
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on January 16th, 2004 at 09:40 PM |
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I have not used Unicolour paint and cannot comment on it.
I have used only two pack in recent years being Spies Hecker, Dulux and PPG.
In acrylic laquer I have used Dulux (now PPG) , Berger (Spies Hecker) and Spartan (Wattyl) in the past.
In my experience from what I have used and what I have seen done, I would have to say that you get what you pay for. If you plan on a paintjob staying
on a car for more than 5 years you will need to get quality products.
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wrecker67
A.k.a.: craig
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| posted on January 17th, 2004 at 08:23 AM |
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concept paints are cheap put is a good finish,i use it on all my acylic paint jobs,,i think if its a daily drive,no good paying top $$$$ for
paint...is only as good as the painter,the mix is very important,you can have it to wet,or to dry...
i have read a few comments here,sounds like a lot of one timers,trying to do there cars which is great to see,,,but dont try go over the top with your
first respray,
i am a spray painter 15 years,if you want a good job,think about the prep work,if not done right,you mays well use a paint roller,,,,the top coat is
only as good as the prep work,with acylic the paint gets cut with 1200/1500 wet so you can have a few mistakes and will be cut away if your lucky....i
dont know about hell bus but i like to let acylic sit for 1 to 2 weeks b4 i cut it,let it sink back then cut /buff,you buff to soon after the paint
sinks and you lose the high shine,,,
cheers...
hell bus love the kombi cool ride dude..
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on January 17th, 2004 at 09:21 AM |
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Yes Wrecker67,
I agree totally, prep is very important.
I also used let my acrylic jobs sit for a week or two as well. Paint one weekend and cut the next or one after that.
It is good to have more than one opinion here, and find they are similar.
I like to be flexible in my thoughts on how to go about a job, as there is more than one way to skin a cat so to speak. If anyone is spraying their
own car, I hope this is helping, because I learnt the hard way. - On my own.
Just remember it wont happen overnight, but it will happen.
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on January 17th, 2004 at 05:42 PM |
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Just uploading part II and final finish now.
:bounce
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Adam_C
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| posted on January 18th, 2004 at 01:05 PM |
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the colour will b metallic, why do you ask? well i can assume this by the fact u rubbed with 800grit, when u simply say 600for solid twopac, 800 for
acrylic and metallics, and your using 2pac........
Adam
Adzslick@iprimus.com.au
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Stanley
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| posted on January 19th, 2004 at 06:59 AM |
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What you have done is fantastic both in paint and the step by step details.
One question, How do you prep and get paint into the vent under the back window. I've seen this done with various degrees of success.
Thanks again.
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on January 19th, 2004 at 04:16 PM |
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The paint in under the vent was original and there was no dirt in there, so I made sure I put as much primer in as possible when I primed it, and when
it was painted, a fair degree of attention was paid to getting colour in there.
The clear could not be squirted in there though, as it would have created runs on the outside.
It is not 100% covered in there, but it looks ok.
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Karmann Bug
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| posted on January 20th, 2004 at 03:38 PM |
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I did not see you mention anything about rubbing the final paint. Did you get so little orange peel that you did not need to do any final rubbing?
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on January 20th, 2004 at 03:42 PM |
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That is correct. There was almost no peel. This is achieved through years of experience. Being two pack it has a direct gloss which eliminates the
need for cut & polishing. :thumb
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bajaman64
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| posted on January 20th, 2004 at 11:28 PM |
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I have a bloke at work who painted his chevy with 2pak and spent an eternity rubbing it back. He says he used 2000 wet paper, folowed by a cut with
2000 milk/paste and them 3000!!! final cut.
If 2pak has a "direct gloss", does this mean he stuffed something or is he going overboard. When he showed me the photos it looked better
than a mirror finish.
Bastard wont paint my car for me!!!
Says it has to many curves.
Mind blowing topic. Looks a million bucks.
thanx Todd :jesus
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on January 21st, 2004 at 07:52 AM |
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Direst Gloss just means that you do not 'have to' polish the paintwork. If you need to rub runs, dirt or peel out, you can.
You won't stuff it by rubbing it back & polishing it.
If you want ultimate showclass look you will do whatever it takes. My paintjob took a total of 8 hours to paint two colours including masking,
painting, baking and unmasking. It is now finished.
I will not be spending any more time on the finish as it is complete. This is one of biggest advantages of two pack. It is quick on big jobs.
That is why OEM paintjobs are all two pack.
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on February 3rd, 2004 at 12:04 AM |
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Whoo hoo.
Got a call from the trimmer today and the carpet and bit of headlining lower is done.
Will be able to put the rear windows in now and Beetle will be ready for Hanging rock.
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blutopless2
Veteran Volks Folk
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| posted on February 6th, 2004 at 09:41 AM |
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just wondering where in melbourne you did the work and had the use of the spraybooth/equipment etc?
see.... air and water do mix 
1974 1300
1997 MK3 Golf GL
2003 NB Cabrio
2012 Golf VI GTI
2014 Audi A4 Quattro |
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on February 14th, 2004 at 11:57 AM |
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I did the work at the smash repair shop I manage. We only do accident repairs.
Resto and respray not what the shop is set up for.
I had to do this over a few days at Christmas time in my own time with my own materials.
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on February 15th, 2004 at 09:49 PM |
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Hey Peter, thanks for all the info it is much appreciated.
Can you give me any tips for spraying metallic colours to avoid getting stripes in the colour (base coat clear coat 2 pack system)? I have done some
painting before but not professional by the furthest stretch of the imagination!!
I have a 15cfm compressor with dual filters to help get some of the moisture out, regulator of course, and a fairly low-mid range gravity feed gun.
The stripes don't happen all the time, I thought I may have had the spray fan to small?
Any help is appreciated. I seem to get a few darker stripes through the basecoat every now and again.
Cheers
Alan
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on February 15th, 2004 at 10:13 PM |
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That is a tricky one.
There are a lot of reasons
- spray fan is too narrow. should be nice and wide
- Paint is too thick - should be a fair bit thinner than straight paint
- paint is too thin. should be a fair bit thicker than water
- nozzle is blocked. Spray close to a piece of cardboard and see if an even spray patch appears, not a figure 8 pattern.
- painting too close. At least 20 cm away.
- painting in hot weather. Acrylic doesnt like hot, especially over 35C using light coloured metallics.
- Moving too fast or too far each line!
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on February 16th, 2004 at 09:10 PM |
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Thanks for that, I'll keep an eye on those things (I'm using 2K base coat clear coat by the way).
I think I may have been a combo of too close and spray was too narrow. Mixed paint before so know roughly how it should flow off the mixing stick (had
a spray painter friend give me some pointers once).
Cheers again
Alan
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on March 1st, 2004 at 10:33 PM |
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Spray painting is a bit like Tai Chi.
You have to have stamina, but be gentle at the same time. Strong but smooth.
It comes with experience.
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lil bug
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| posted on March 23rd, 2004 at 06:45 PM |
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Hey Hellbus I gotta say thanks... I didnt take too much info from your step by step but you helped me with the one big thing that we punters need to
do our own paint, you gave me the confidence to do it...
This thanks is well overdue as I'm just bolting Vernon back together now I'll post pics when its done.
a wise guy once said... "it took thousands of experts to build the Titannic, and a lone amature built the Ark"
Thanks again.
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on March 23rd, 2004 at 06:49 PM |
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That's great. There is definitley a feeling of satisfaction when you paint a car yourself. I remember when I did my first respray, my confidence grew
a lot from that.
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