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 Yogie
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| posted on May 26th, 2005 at 02:41 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bugeyedbabe
yogie, can u put details up, so i know what im asking for when i go into the shops...otherwise i get strange looks when i say...i want sum fingies to
go into that fingy....
Ur set up looks good, and I'd rather be putting in something that doesnt require drilling/welding/ fixing or altering of the body of the car. If
u've seen me weld/drill/fix...u'd know why
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No worries. I will try and find the part number of the belts and the bracket as well. Will put them up probably tomorrow for you.
Yogie
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 Chewy
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| posted on May 26th, 2005 at 02:43 PM |
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How much were the repco belts?
Do they say who they were made by?
Cheers
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Yogie
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| posted on May 26th, 2005 at 02:48 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Chewy
How much were the repco belts?
Do they say who they were made by?
Cheers
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I think they were about $90 each and the company was Kimco or something like that. I will try and post a picture of the box with the part number if I
still have it.
Yogie
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StenGuns
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| posted on May 26th, 2005 at 02:53 PM |
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http://www.aussieveedubbers.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=36854#pid327855
Buy new ones.. The ones to get are Klippans..
The cheapest supplier is ARFA out in Campbelltown
He is a decent guy.. 1/3 cheaper than autoone retail etc..
T: (02) 9603 3902
http://www.arfa.com.au/productlist.html
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Chewy
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| posted on May 26th, 2005 at 02:57 PM |
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Hey Yogie, was it Hemco?
What length did you get?
thanks
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Brad
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| posted on May 26th, 2005 at 03:20 PM |
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Most beetles use 300 mm stalks and stock retractables which retail at $85 ea brand new in a variety of colours.
Engineering in QLD will cost between $88 and $185 depending on who you go to.
Seats are quite easy to fit but just remember when you fit them to get engineered you often need to fit new seat belts. As I guide we charge $660 to
supply and fit seats to a beetle including engineering approval. On top of this you have to pay for seat belats and mounting if req'd.
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Yogie
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| posted on May 27th, 2005 at 10:15 AM |
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I couldn't find the boxes the seat belts came in or the receipt but I think it is the Klippan brand and the typw was "1532" or something similar.
The 90 degree bracket came from CIP1 in America and their part number is C26-857-024 and they were US$19.95 for the pair. They call it a seat belt
bracket for retractable seat belts.
Yogie
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 barls
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| posted on June 10th, 2005 at 09:07 AM |
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klipan also make a braket similar to the clp1
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General_Failure
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| posted on June 11th, 2005 at 01:10 AM |
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Wish I had a clearer recollection of the setup in my S. It was in there when I bought it.
I do know it had Audi reels. There was a steel plate bolted in where the lower loop went originally. It went up 10cm or so. The reel was bolted to
that. I think the lower loop was still bolted on there. Of course there was a new top thingy on the B pillar too in the original position. The setup
worked quite well for me.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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andytlr
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| posted on June 13th, 2005 at 03:20 PM |
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I just went to check that this would all work in my bug... On the passenger side the stock belt was installed properly and on the drivers side it was
bolted through the pan. There was a whole for it to go in the proper place but I couldn't find a bolt to fit. Ended up taking the bolt out from
through the pan and it was the original one... Put it back where it was supposed to be and all seems totally fine. So no idea why they would have gone
through the pan.
Anyway, Inertia belts are definately next on my list. I don't feel totally safe in the stock ones and regardless they are a pain in the ass,
especially when different sized passengers get in and you have to wait for them or help them adjust.
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General_Failure
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| posted on June 14th, 2005 at 01:52 PM |
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Tha audi belts were a tad too short. Anyone larger than average struggled to put them on.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Marz
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| posted on June 15th, 2005 at 09:04 PM |
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I put VL seat belts in my oval it was just a simple matter of altering the shape of the pracket to a right angle and bolting it to the floorpan with a
decent 10mm plate on the underside. I also put a tapped plate up into the semiphore hole to bolt the top plate to, this was so there wouldnt be an
ugly bolt showing on the outside of the pillar, plus spread the load over a plate rather than a shitty bolt. Mine wasnt cert but it did passroad
worthy, just hope i dont have to use them in a serious situation!
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barls
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| posted on June 15th, 2005 at 09:51 PM |
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hey marz what you have done is right but with out certification its illegal. just cause it passed roadworth doesnt mean a thing as a roadworth is just
that while the full inspection ie a blue slip in nsw also includes a design check to make sure all things like this are safe and done correctly to the
standard of the ADRs
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andytlr
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| posted on June 15th, 2005 at 11:30 PM |
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I'm a little confused and I think a couple of other people are too. I understand that if you mount the new seat belt through the floor pan, i.e. in a
different place, then it needs to be engineered. But if you bolt it to exactially the same places as the original belt was...?
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Chewy
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| posted on June 16th, 2005 at 12:45 AM |
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My 66 bug originally came with holes in the pan which the factory belts were fitted too.
Pretty much if you modify anything from stock like that it needs an engineering cert to remain legal.
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andytlr
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| posted on June 16th, 2005 at 07:27 AM |
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Ok. But that still sounds a bit wishy washy. If you were being technical then instaling new seat belts would be modified. But are you saying that if
it is in the stock place then it is alright?
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andytlr
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| posted on June 16th, 2005 at 07:27 AM |
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Ok. But that still sounds a bit wishy washy. If you were being technical then instaling new seat belts would be modified. But are you saying that if
it is in the stock place then it is alright?
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barls
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| posted on June 16th, 2005 at 07:34 AM |
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andy if you use the stock mounting points thats fine doesnt need engineering but if you create a new mounting point it needs to be certified. thats
what i was trying to say but there are too many people on here that are blarzay about what they do and think that what they do is good enough with out
finishing the job ie certification of the job. im not picking on marz personally but hes method is right just hasnt followed through fully
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andytlr
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| posted on June 16th, 2005 at 08:06 AM |
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Righto. Thanks. All clear on certification.
But what I have just realised is that you need two places to mount the new belts near the floor (one of the real and one of the other strap) so you
are pretty much always going to need to drill through the floor pan arent you? Or is that what this 'bracket' that people were talking about does?
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andytlr
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| posted on June 16th, 2005 at 08:06 AM |
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Righto. Thanks. All clear on certification.
But what I have just realised is that you need two places to mount the new belts near the floor (one of the real and one of the other strap) so you
are pretty much always going to need to drill through the floor pan arent you? Or is that what this 'bracket' that people were talking about does?
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barls
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| posted on June 16th, 2005 at 11:17 AM |
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actually the belts are 3 point mounts. they used the top mount and 2 bottom mounts. i use the stock point for one and the bracket bolted to the pan
for the other. the bracket they have been talking about bolts in to the stock point near the bottom of the door pillar and comes out at 90 degrees so
the real is near the rear seat going across the car
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andytlr
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| posted on June 16th, 2005 at 02:13 PM |
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That sounds like a good solution then. No drilling the floor pan.
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barls
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| posted on June 16th, 2005 at 04:17 PM |
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they could be but not 100% sure
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