| [ Total Views: 130390 | Total Replies: 74 | Thread Id: 41172 ] |
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 pod
A.k.a.: paul mrvw061
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| posted on July 8th, 2005 at 11:45 PM |
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are you sure some of your air noises arent the mech fuel pump still moving as they will suck in air an blow it out of the other side,just a thought as
had it on an old val i had with elect pump and mech pump stil in:blush
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General_Failure
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| posted on July 9th, 2005 at 12:03 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by pod
are you sure some of your air noises arent the mech fuel pump still moving as they will suck in air an blow it out of the other side,just a thought as
had it on an old val i had with elect pump and mech pump stil in:blush
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Well, I'm pretty sure the squeak isn't coming from the pump.
And the hiss when I was cranking, well it was accompanied by faster rotation through that compression stroke. When a battery has trouble spinning a
starter motor, compression differences seem to become obvious.
Great idea though. It probably does make a noise too. Just been drowned out by louder ones.
Unfortunately it's raining today and my other half is in a lot of pain so I can't do anything 
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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76camper
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| posted on July 11th, 2005 at 02:42 PM |
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Thats no good, Have you been out since? weather seems to be getting better in syd...
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General_Failure
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| posted on July 11th, 2005 at 04:50 PM |
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I just had the opportunity to do some more testing on the van. Bub is at her grandparents for the night and Amy is in bed asleep sick. Possibly a lung
infection according to the doc. Those things are nasty Hi Ho Penicillin.
AWAY!
I did a cold test on the noisy side of the engine. ie 3&4.
No. 3 came back with 60PSI.
No. 4 gave me roughly 30PSI.
I know doing a compression test on a cold engine yeilds a lower pressure, but seriously, what?!?!
I tried reversing and going forward. It was a gutless wonder. I decided to leave it where it was, because I don't like my chances of moving it on my
own if it decided to die.
I managed to restart the engine a couple of times. Oddly enough if I gave the accelerator a pump and then left the throttle wide open it'd take 1
maybe 2 revs to start it.
I decided to restart the van to get it into a slightly better location. i was a bit off. Couldn't start it. Mr Battery decreed it was time for some
R&R(removal and recharging). So I didn't get to do a warm compression check.
The hiss on cranking is still there, and the squeak is still very audible too.
Fast idle was doing its job when i first started the van. It gave me another chance to go round back and listen. While it's still cold the squeak has
a 'shape'. It's a high pitched squeak that tends to slack off to a hiss at the end. This is when it's still cold.
Oh yeah. No 3. sparky was black with soot. No.4 had some tiny tendrils of something bridging the gap. Fixed that.
I was surprised the lower compression was on 3. The sound seems to come from around 4.
Is the compression on 3 low for a cold test? 4 just seems plain wrong to me.
Is it possible to remove the head with the engine still in? I believe it is, but have never tried it. Has anyone else done it?
Either way it'll mean a partial tinware strip. When I get to do that, and before I pull off the heads, I think I'll check the stud tension.
i checked the ones under the rocker arms before the van was shipped. They were still good IIRC. I'll recheck them anyway.
If stud tension is still good on the accessible nuts, is it a fair bet that the top ones are good too?
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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76camper
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| posted on July 11th, 2005 at 05:54 PM |
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Sooty spark plugs isnt a worry, you have only been running it for a min or two on startup with choke so i wouldnt be too concerned. If the squeek was
going away as the engine warms up (runs longer) and you were running it only for 1 or 2 mins then it is most likely part of the cylinder head.... It
may be a bit of crap caught in a pushrod oil passage and not giving the rocker any lunbricant, as you run longer the oil may splash around and get on
the effected area?? How does that sound? I would run over the effect rockers and see if anything looks out of place, lots of wear, metal shaving, play
on the studs anything like that. Then soak it in wd40 (might be a bad idea if it mixes with the engine oil but some1 else will have to answer that) if
not wd40 then some sort of spray oil that wont afffect your engine oil and then start it up and see if its gone. Also because its every 2 cranks then
that might make the rockers even more suspect. With the psi, i remember reading somewhere that the psi in each post was apprx 100-110psi, seems like
your pretty down. If you end up taking off the heads then it might be a pretty easy fix, rings in wrong pos, valve not seating properly. We had a hole
in one of our valve (bit cracked out) and the engine was still ok to drive around but that was a 2l engine with 1600 gearbox but you should still be
able to move the car. Give what i sed about the rockers or if anyone suggests a better method and give us some feed back. Good luck!
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General_Failure
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| posted on July 11th, 2005 at 06:33 PM |
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Sorry, I meant the sound of each individual squeak. It still stays the same volume.
So you reckon give the rockers a clean up? Easy. It only takes a few minutes to pull them aout and give them a good cleanup.
You mean maybe a ring has rotated? I guess that's possible.
A badly seated valve is another possibility.
it worries me that both cylinders were down so much. I haven't checked the other side of the motor for comparison though.
I have an 1800 with a 1600 box, so it wouldn't be too different.
Even running on 3 cyls, or in the vehicles pre-dropped valve seat state (ie. totally rooted topend) it still had heaps of power compared to its
current state.
It ran beautifully for the first hour or so after the rebuild. Then in a matter of a couple of seconds it lost its power. I reckon whatever happened
was pretty catastrophic to do that so quickly. It really sounds like a whole lot of pressure is getting out. Just wish I could think of a way to
figure out where!
I mean, if I knew whether it was escaping from the head, past the rings, or past a valve, it would make everything so easy.
I'm not even going to attempt pulling the sparkies out of the other side until I take the tinware off. There's a funny sparkplug hole helicoil
making life a pain.
If I could drop out the engine I think I'd end up doing another rebuild. Only thing is time. Last time it took me a couple of weeks fulltime. There
are so many things to pull off!
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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76camper
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on July 11th, 2005 at 07:41 PM |
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Did you have any work done to the heads? It sounds like a valve/valve seat problem to me. Maybe the valve springs are too weak. Take out the rockers
and give em a clean up... just keep eliminating possibilities! Take out the pushrods at the same time and just check the that oil can still flow
through them. They might have got some debris caught in them that will stop the oil flow and make the rocker squeek. I think you should be able to
figure out the problem pretty easily by just taking the heads off and checking valves, seats, guides, springs and piston rings. It is hard to tell
what it is out of those tho. Give cleaning and lubing the rockers a go and see if the squeek goes away. Did you try taking off the alternator belt and
running it like that?
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General_Failure
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| posted on July 12th, 2005 at 01:56 AM |
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nah. Didn't have any work done on the heads. All i could do was give them a quick cleanup. I only had a timeframe of a couple of weeks to do it all
in unfortunately. I think that mistakes may have been made.
Forgot to try taking off the alternator belt. My primary concern was compression testing and power testing. Now that I've done those I can check
other things.
Fun and games.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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76camper
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| posted on July 12th, 2005 at 08:51 AM |
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Wats your knowledge on reconditioning heads like? Ours was bad, we got a set fully rebuilt for $550.... its not cheap but we had hardened valve seats
put in etc etc. and hopefully if we look after the engine they will last for a while... Anyways, clean up the rockers and tell us how you go
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General_Failure
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| posted on July 12th, 2005 at 11:47 AM |
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Well, I know what is done to heads to recondition them. I can't do it though.
Because the engine hadn't really done too many kms since it was recon/rebuilt before I bought he kombi, all I did was clean up the good head a bit.
Just cleaned off carbon deposits really.
As for the replacement head, that's a slightly different story. I have it a really good de-carbon treatment. In some areas the burnt on crud was a
few mm thick. I cleaned up the head seal area and made sure it looked pretty clean so that I wouldn't have a leaky head gasket.
I checked the valves moved properly and that the springs didn't feel weak. The seals between the valves and seats looked pretty good so I didn't
touch that.
After I put the motor back in, a problem was made apparent on the replacement head. The inlet manifold studs were pretty bad. A couple of them didn't
even survive a mild tightening. Loctite, silicon and care seemed to remedy the situation.
Anyway, I know that's not the problem now. It's horrible compressioin loss from parts unknown.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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76camper
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| posted on July 12th, 2005 at 01:52 PM |
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is the replacement head on the cyl 3 & 4 (low compression) side? Was it second hand? I would be leaning on a component of that head being suspect!
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General_Failure
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| posted on July 13th, 2005 at 04:48 PM |
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it was well and truly second hand. It didn't look too bad, but I guess looks can be deceiving.
Yesterday's brief start the squeak was horrible. Didn't get to remove the fanbelt. I wanted to make sure it would start first. I don't exactly
trust it.
Just had a quick look undernerneath. Looks like there4'd be enough clearence to do the heads,and maybe even pull off the barrels again without
pulling the motor out. I hate the thought of pulling the gudgeons again. That was a horrible job.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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kombikim
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| posted on July 13th, 2005 at 05:35 PM |
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I know for sure that a friend also had this squeak & it turned out to be the head "gasket" shim, the compression was blowing out there, the reason
it makes the noise is the same as if you whistle
I changed the 3/4 head over on my kombi with no trouble
dunno about the 1/2 side though
Please, I need drivers side window regulator (winder mechanism) for my '54  |
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General_Failure
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| posted on July 14th, 2005 at 03:16 PM |
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You changed the head with the motor in?
1-2 wouldn't be too much different to 3-4. It's clearence between the heads and the chassis that's the main concern.
I was going to do a rough measurement with a spare barrel today to figure out if it were possible to remove the barrels with the motor in too. I'd
like to pull them off again to check on the rings.
I don't think there would be too much of an issue with disturbing the grooves, as the engine would have had maybe 2 hours of operation total.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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VWENVY
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| posted on July 14th, 2005 at 03:25 PM |
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EDIT - SORRY! i just read one of your earlier posts - if your compression is that low pull both heads!! Dont dick around - pull the motor and have a
good look!! Much easier in the end!!!
Point to note: if you back one head off, back the other at the same time - always!!
good luck
nn[ Edited on 14-7-2005 by VWENVY ]
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kombikim
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| posted on July 14th, 2005 at 03:31 PM |
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yes,
if you are all set up with plenty of room & jack & hieght & nice flat garage floor it may be easier to pull motor out,
but when I did it I was not happy, as not much room & getting motor back on by myself a bit hard
so this time with other kombi, just did it in back yard at leisure, one night after work & it was off, only real hassle is fiddling with all the tin
at the firewall end
if you cant unscrew the screws that hold all that together (from underneath & forward of motor) then you have wasted your time pulling anything else
apart 1st
Please, I need drivers side window regulator (winder mechanism) for my '54 |
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76camper
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| posted on July 14th, 2005 at 05:07 PM |
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Hey general failure, was reading up on http://www.ratwell.com and
"Head replacement is easy once the engine is out (the hard part). You can replace the heads with the engine in the bus but it ends up being much more
work because of the awkwardness of the working area."
Something to think about. Also read about leak down tests. Maybe give that a go if you can. Check out his site... its like all the vw info i have ever
read on one site. VERY helpful!
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76camper
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| posted on July 14th, 2005 at 08:45 PM |
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Also on his site i think, pic of the preheat part of the tinware near the fuel pump you were asking about. This is what it looks like...
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General_Failure
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| posted on July 14th, 2005 at 11:02 PM |
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wow! I didn't expect all these replies!
I can only give a quick reply right now. I'll be more thorough later.
Didn't check compression on the other side of the motor. I'd like to pull it apart to source an oil leak anyway.
kombikim, could you please tell me where you positioned the jack to lower everything out?
I was going to buy a subaru motor from ebay when all this first happened.. It was won by someone ebay id kombikim. coincidence?
Thanks for the site 76camper. i'll look at it tomorrow.
Thanks for the pic too. I was wondering what that bit looked like. Now I know what I need.
I'll post more later. Thanks.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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kombikim
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| posted on July 15th, 2005 at 12:19 AM |
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coincidence - ohh dear another one of me! probably a girl
wonder what else I bought
I am not an expert on dropping kombi motor, just put a flat peice of wood under centre of motor a bit towards flywheel end
with tolley jack & a coupla scissor jacks, for safety & fiddled round til I had it balanced - exact spot irrelivant anyway because I have an auto,
which has different balance
(rear or car was on stands, as high as they would go
Please, I need drivers side window regulator (winder mechanism) for my '54 |
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76camper
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| posted on July 15th, 2005 at 08:32 AM |
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yea, just fiddle round till you get it about right. You can use a rope around the front of the gearbox and connect it to the chassis on each side and
use that as a saftey rope and slowly let that rope down while you let the jack down. You can do that with the rear cross memeber aswell. Loop some
rope around each side and then around the rear part of the engine bay... its hard to explain but its really useful. As you let the jack down you just
let each rope off a bit and if you balance is totally out your not going to f**k your engine from it falling. If you dont understand i will take some
pic's. Using the ropes makes it ALOT easier and gives you more confidence. Use the ropes when you put the engine in aswell...
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Andy
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| posted on July 15th, 2005 at 11:46 AM |
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Wow, what a saga!
I have not read this post before, looks like you’re in for some troubles!
Like has been mentioned in posts above, it’s very hard to diagnose without seeing the motor and hearing the problem, so please understand I am only
guessing on the cause of problem from your explanations.
Firstly I think you have two problems not one. As you already know you have a very bad leak somewhere in the top end. The squeak, hiss and poor
starting are definite symptoms of this. As you get some pressure in a compression test, at least there is not a massive failure like a hole in a
piston or a broken valve. Are you sure the compression test was accurate? Pressures that low mean a sizable leak. How you can narrow down where the
leak is using a leak down test as 76camper mentioned. If you don’t have equipment to do this, see if you can have someone crank the motor while you
listen in the engine bay (or you may be able to hear it just turning the motor by hand?) Make sure you disconnect the coil so it doesn’t fire.
If possible you may also want to remove the carbie and exhaust to hear the hiss better. A leaky valve (make sure valve clearances are right first!!)
will put the hissing sound into either the inlet manifold or the exhaust pipe. Leaking past the piston you should be able to hear in the case (remove
the steel case breather box next to the fan housing and listen in there. If you still can’t narrow down the hiss it’s more than likely the head
gasket.
Next is why the sudden power loss. A leak in the combustion chamber will not stop you driving, in fact a leak in the head gasket in my 2L kombi which
was quite noisy resulted in very little power loss and only a slight variation in compression. I drove from Adelaide to Perth like that before
discovering what the problem was. Assuming your compression test is accurate, you have suddenly developed a very large leak in two cylinders at least.
I would guess there was either a pre existing problem in the head you never noticed or for some reason the head studs are very loose (maybe the ones
under the tinware?). One good test to see which cylinders you have a problem with, try to keep the motor running for a few minutes to warm it up, make
sure the chokes are off and get it to run as slow as possible and still be steady. Then pull the plug leads one at a time and not the difference in
engine speed, probably for Cyl. No 3, 4 you will not notice a change.
I still think there is more to your woes than that, some old parts kombi’s I have picked up I could drive OK only running on two cylinders, sure its
down on power but still enough to drive around with. So my guess is either you are losing pressure on the No 1, 2 side as well or there may be a fuel
delivery or spark issue as well.
See if you can run through some of what’s above to get a better idea on where the problem is.
It’s not a rosy outlook, but the type 4 is a robust motor that can handle a fair bit of abuse. If you are confident the rest of the motor is sound,
just pulling the heads either with the motor in or out of the bus will probably get you running again. Be wary of second hand heads as they are the
weakest part on a type 4 motor. If you can afford it I’d recommend having them checked by some one who can test them for you.
For your information, a new motor should get 140-150psi (with stock compression) and a warn motor ~100psi. Below that and you start to loose too much
power.
Also new heads are ~$600ea, so re-built second hand is cheaper, but not always the best.
Good luck!
:blah
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Andy
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| posted on July 15th, 2005 at 11:53 AM |
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Oh, as for removing the motor, if you have the space and flat gound, my preference is two floor jacks, one in the middle on the motor, one at the
front of the GB. It balances OK like that and you can lower each end separately. You only need to remove the mount above the bell housing and lean the
rear of the motor down enough so you can disconnect it from the GB. Then jack the bus up enough to slide the motor out from under it.
Most importan of all is BE SAFE and make sure everything is properly supported before getting underneath. Kombi's are heavy, you don't want one
dropping on you!!
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General_Failure
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| posted on July 15th, 2005 at 11:54 AM |
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so there are 2 kombikims? weird. It was a subie motor with all the fittings for a kombi too.
OK, so it's most important to be able to unscrew the tinware on the firewall end? Why do you need to take that off first? I don't think it was taken
off when the motor/transmission was dropped out to find an unspecified transmission problem (turned out to be a cut clutch cable. yes, cut). I know it
only took dave a few minutes to undo everything and raise the van up, leaving the motor sitting there. I wish I had a lift.
So, should I put it up on ramps or keep it on the ground for this procedure?
It's a bit off-topic, but what's the type of piston ring compressor called that I need? I never ended up getting it last time round, and I can't
remember what it's called anymore. It's probably still waiting for me in Dalby.
I'd rather use the proper thing this time round than my badly made homebrew one. It was a cheap oil filter wrench with a chunk of plate cut from a
stinkpipe cap assembly to make everything wide enough for the rings.
I was afraid there would be something about scissor jacks mentioned. I've been considering getting a couple if I can find them cheap enough. They can
be very useful things. I even used one for moving a commodore motor to fix an incorrectly installed engine mount. Bent the jack though. Ah well, it
was only a council car's jack.
I used ropes last time round dropping out just the motor. If there was anything I learned it was this. Get thicker rope. I had the unpleasant
experience of it snapping when the motor slipped. I had the motor tied up in 4 places too.
I had an auto. It's manual now  Best thing I ever did. Automatics don't
like me.
Ah geez. I have to find some wood. These here city folk don't seem to have any lying around.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
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Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on July 15th, 2005 at 05:16 PM |
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Sorry, the last couple of posts happened while I was typing the last reply.
Wish I had a decent way of recording the sound of the van. The best ways I can think of is to use the mobile phone or get a mic->line level converter
and use the md recorder.
Firstly, I can assure you the valve clearances aer correct. It was one of the first things I checked. All of the lifters are operational too. I turned
the engine by hand to check they all moved.
There are no broken valve springs. As for weak ones, well, none of them felt weak on a simple push test with the back of a screwriver.
The starting issue has me a bit confused. It hates starting cold. Sure the buggered battery doesn't help much. Once it's been started and ran for a
minute, it barely even needs to crank before it sputters to life. It is curious how I need to have the throttle wide open to start it though. Maybe it
can't suck too hard.
So I have a few things to try for finding the source of the leak. Problem is, I don't have anyone to assist me.
I'm pretty sure the bigend is okay. I have no reason to think otherwise. Everything moves and oil pressure is fine.
I agreee that the amount of power loss is just stupid. My motor was in really poor shape and I drove it interstate while towing.It still had piles
more power than this.
It sounds like it's running pretty even apart from the squeaky barrel. That sounds weak. It's just very, very gutless.
The electrics seem okay I think. It has a new GT40 coil in it too. It's got a good spark still.
$600 for heads? Hmm, I'm about $600 short on that. and then x2? ouch.
Unfortunately I have no idea if the compression gauge is correct. It's new so I have nothing to compare it to.
Excellent. Theres some really good ways of removing the motor. Thankyou for that.
Should be interesting getting the motor running without throttle. So adjusting the throttle stop screws is the best way to do it?
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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76camper
Fahrvergnugen
Posts: 884
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Registered: January 13th, 2005
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Location: sydney, northern beaches
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Mood: happy :-)
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| posted on July 15th, 2005 at 05:42 PM |
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Should be interesting getting the motor running without throttle. So adjusting the throttle stop screws is the best way to do it?
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Definantly the quickest.... will probably take you a whole 30 sec's lol. Get the motor running and then bump up the idle enough to keep it running...
Will make working on the engine alot easier.
I agree with Andy, my bus had pretty much no compression on one pot and it still ran pretty well. The carbs were tuned up to compensate tho.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
Member Is Offline
Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on July 15th, 2005 at 07:16 PM |
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This might sound really dumb, but I adjust the stops on both carbs, right?
Oh yeah, I've been looking through that site. Something horrible occured to me.
This is it, simplified.
The engine was rebuilt, yielding higher compression.
Queensland in summer is hot.
The fuel at the servo was questionable.
There was a missing heater box/manifold nut (spotted today).
I'm wondering if it has a warped head. I really hope not. I guess it's better than some of the other possibilities.
I just want to get my van running properly. It's in about the same shape as me right now.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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76camper
Fahrvergnugen
Posts: 884
Threads: 89
Registered: January 13th, 2005
Member Is Offline
Location: sydney, northern beaches
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: happy :-)
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| posted on July 15th, 2005 at 09:51 PM |
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i dont think it matters which one.... not sure why there are two stops but yea one of them will do. Could be a warped head, i havent herd of it yet
(only been dubbin not even a year yet) but i guess you wont know until the heads come off. Maybe take off the heads and them take em to some1 who
knows their sh*t and get an opinion... I think your just denying the inevitable lol... the engine is going to have to come out. Ide give you a hand if
i lived round the corner but i guess not lol
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
Member Is Offline
Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on July 16th, 2005 at 11:11 AM |
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Sorry. I guess the flu has me down a bit. Well, that and a lot of other things.
I have decided the best method would be for me to remove the engine and transmission, and not separate them. It took me a day to get them to mate and
bolt together last time. I also had a problem with the motor tipping over flywheel first into the ground last time too. Type4 motors are so much
heavier than their type1 cousins. And I think I'd prefer extra weight and an extra 'handle'.
It'll probably end up with the spare head on it. I just hope there's enough clearance for the rockers. The valve seats are somewhat recessed.
Thanks for the offer 76camper. If I were in a vastly different location I would have taken you up on it. Probably invited a few others too and had a
bbq and some drinks too. It's the best way to work on cars I reckon.
It's a real pain in the bum not knowing anyone within a thousand or so kms.
One more question. I have a trolley jack and (maybe) a scissor jack in the EA. I also have 2 ramps and 2 axle stands (pin and hole type).
I also have a nice complement of sockets, allens, some ring spanners, torque wrench, shifters multigrips etc.
What else would I need to make this job easier, apart from some more rope that is?
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Heads.html Sounds very
familiar.
Something I forgot to reply to earlier about head stud tension. I have been wondering about the top studs too.
When I put the motor back together, I tensioned them all correctly, then retensioned them a little later. I then left the motor to sit overnight and
did a final round just to be sure. I just wish it were possible to get to the things without extracting the tinware. It'd be great to be able to
retension easily after the motor has been reassembled.
One final thing. Last time I cheated and didn't pull off the big alloy ducting assembly. I think I'll do it this time. How hard is it? my manual was
no help at all. It just told me to take it off.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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76camper
Fahrvergnugen
Posts: 884
Threads: 89
Registered: January 13th, 2005
Member Is Offline
Location: sydney, northern beaches
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: happy :-)
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| posted on July 16th, 2005 at 03:05 PM |
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ok, now youve decided to drop it your almost half way :-)
1. Reverse van up onto ramps, the angle makes taking the engine out tricky but the extra height makes it easier, also they are safer than jack stands
(i think)
2. Once ur up chock the two front wheels and then get too work undo cables, tubes, wires etc.
3. Support the engine with ropes and then put a peice of thick wood and your trolley jack and centre it (you will find it will balance nearer to the
frotn of the sump). Jack it up, undo all the bolts and gear shift then pull it back (so nosecone clears that big horizontal pole (whats it called???)
and then your done!
Sounds easy doesnt it, hardest part is balancing the engine.
The tools you have is pretty much all i used to take out engine out.... If you are doing the head work yourself you may need to get a few others (dont
know wat... just looks tricky).
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One final thing. Last time I cheated and didn't pull off the big alloy ducting assembly. I think I'll do it this time. How hard is it? my manual was
no help at all. It just told me to take it off.
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I dont know wat u mean by big alloy ducting... explain?
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