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Author: Subject:  $250 labour + parts for a clutch fork replacement??
MemberEdmond
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posted on January 17th, 2006 at 12:28 AM



The pressure plate. You can see a circular scoring that the clutch fork arms were obviously making. Probably when I over tightened the clutch cable.

When i was considering the costs of a mechanic (while staring at the raised rear end) , I had your $250 figure in mind, plus towing from home to mechanic plus whatever they charge for spares plus the labour for the job. I was guessing around $600.

Its not a walk in the park to drop the engine. I still have to do the repairs and reinstall it.

I hope my pics help with your diagnosis and good luck whichever way you go
Ed

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posted on January 17th, 2006 at 05:29 AM



so just to prove a point how long did it take you to get it out?



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posted on January 17th, 2006 at 06:10 AM



the list goes on



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posted on January 17th, 2006 at 09:25 AM



I have done lots of work on VWs and also used VW mechanics.

I think you need to decide how much time you have, and how good at working on mechanical things you are. With my last beetle, I always had the car serviced by a VW specialist. This was for a few reasons. A. the car was my daily transport and I couldn't afford to have it off the road. B. if something went wrong with the service then I had recall and mechanic had to fix it...which I knew they would because they are reliable and well established. C. there are a number of things I didn't have the time, tools or experience to do satisfactorilly.

With the buggy, I had more time to learn how to do things so I did a lot of the mechanical stuff. However, I still had my VW mechanic do a rear main seal for me, rebuild the gearbox and get the subie engine and gearbox mated correctly.

The plus of using a qualified experienced VW mechanic from my perspective is this. I now have two mate who are VW specialists. If I ever need to know something, I can ring or drop in for a chat and they give me the rundown. If I need a big job done on a gearbox/engine or something else complex, I have two mates who can do it...and do it well. In that situation, I'm glad to pay them to do what they do.

So in the end, Yes, going to the mechanic costs money, but there is a pay off for having him work on your car. Firstly, you get a well serviced car and secondly, you get a sounding board when you need advice.

BTW, I think $250 for an R&R of an engine is very reasonable.




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posted on January 17th, 2006 at 11:35 AM



Hi Pete, Dave. Things seemed to have now settled down with some meaningfull info. At least the guy now has some idea of what it really takes to remove the engine and NEXT time it'll be much easier. If, and it would be best, the cluch assembly needs replacing, he could now get the engine to someone to have a look at the flywheel seal etc. Sorry to the real mechanics for doing you out of $$$ but the money he has saved can purchase the bits needed to repair the clutch maybe from you. He just has to be careful that he doesn't bend the friction plate when getting the engine back in. Also, while the engine is away getting the bits done, he will have the time to replace the fork. Maybe he can afford doing it this way but the other way may put it out of reach.

As for qualified mechanics being the best ones to work on the mechanical parts of an engine, I would like to point out that MOST railway engines with large GM and ALCO diesels are only worked on by Fitter and Machinists. Thankfully I do fit into this category and many of the modified VW engines of the 60s from the Blacktown (the fellows from the old Lennox Motors) area had the parts machined at Eveleigh Loco Workshops! You'd be surprised what we got up to in those days and we all scratched each others backs. It didn't matter what trade we were from.

I actually passed my Ford to my local mechanic to replace the welsh plugs........... because the weather was too hot and the care factor was zero at the time, I had another vehicle as well as the Notch to get around AND I could offset the cost with machining work! However, the head gasket problem was done at home as I did have time and all of the machinery in my own workshop AND quite qualified to use it.

With that, if the Ford head fits on the mill, the VW ones certainly do as does the crankcase .................... anyone local in trouble give me a call.

Cheers for 2006 and roll on Valla!





[ Edited on 17/1/2006 by 1500S ]
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posted on January 17th, 2006 at 11:46 AM



I took 3 days
first day- wiring , plastic hoses, bits of tinware - about 2 hours of overrly meticulous documentation and carefulness.
second day - removed the little pipe stubs that connect the freshair hoses to the muffler, put back of car on stands, heater wires, accel cable and fuel hose plugging - 2 hours mostly on getting those pipes out cause they were stubborn
day 3 - the four nuts/bolt and dropping the engine - 1 hour with my wife as moral and physical support.

A lot of time was spent with hand on chin psyching up and wondering whether I was doing the right thing and rechecking the manuals over and over. I won't be wasting so much time next time. I'm guessing about 1 hour of careful work just to remove the engine.
It would have gone a lot quicker if I had someone who had done it before with me.
I dont know how long it will take me to put it back yet.

Ash- One thing that I learned is that the engine only just has clearance between rear apron and trans. Now I understand the fantastic idea of a removable rear apron.

I have had had good and bad experiences with mechanics. I would send this off to the shop if it were crankcase related or the gearbox, but I like to see whats going on and find the fault myself.
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posted on January 17th, 2006 at 10:14 PM



Edmond, good on you for having a go. Beats sitting with mind in neutral and watching TV. You can now take the other half out for dinner for all that moral support!!
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posted on January 17th, 2006 at 10:37 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 1500S
Edmond, good on you for having a go. Beats sitting with mind in neutral and watching TV. You can now take the other half out for dinner for all that moral support!!


i second that , i remember the first dub motor i helped pull out, we were 16 yrs old ,we labeled where all the wires went and used bricks and a board to get it up and down:thumb




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posted on January 18th, 2006 at 02:41 PM



Thanks for all the replies people. It is nice to see a range of opinions and experiences out there.

Having spoken to the mechanic again and after reading this thread i have decided to leave this one for the mechanic considering there are other issues that need sorting before rego. Knowing that the job will be done correctly and by someone with experience will give me the peace of mind i am after.

Special thanks to Edmond for posting up the pics and the time breakdown. It definelty helps put it all into perspective.
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posted on January 18th, 2006 at 06:38 PM



No worries Ash and hope it works out well. And thanks to others on the tech forum for support and kind words.
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