| [ Total Views: 53510 | Total Replies: 453 | Thread Id: 50353 ] |
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 nbturbo
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| posted on June 19th, 2006 at 05:43 PM |
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Just been chatting with the bloke who did up the Auto trans for my Oval-he has picked up an auto from a 944 Porsche for me if I want it.He is
confident it will bolt up to a Kombi or Type3 diff housing and they are a lot stronger than the VW auto.I was thinking of doing it up to fit into my
Drag car.Anybody had any experience with these auto's?I have a spare Kombi and a Type3 auto,so could use the diff from either.
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seagull
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| posted on June 20th, 2006 at 01:18 AM |
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~I did talk to a guy in the USA who had a drag bug running an auto box , the motor was mid mount and the diif had been fliped .( oil holes changed )
he had a good run out of it .
The problem is the diff , 2 spider .you need to up grade it to a 4 spider for it to last .
super diff .
I realy dont think the type three auto will hold 200hp for long even with the clutch pack mods you made ( like me )
I realy like the type three auto & collect them when I find them as most get thrown away .
I am about to start my 60 bug and I can say I need a dam good box my self .I have sat on the fence for a long time as getting a gear box to hold over
150hp is not easy as for cost .
You name it I have looked at it every dam gear box out there under 3K au .
If I was building a drag bug ( not road adr ) I would just get a subaru gear box twin sincro 4x4 and then get a front wheel drive liberty box and fit
the guts to that & mid mount the motor .You could do this for $1500.00 to $2500.I have a number of very good wrx gear boxes here my self on the shelf
.
you could even just fit a 4x4 box & pug off the rear out put so the oil dont run out .
I looked at fliping the subaru manual 4x4 box up side down , but the drive shafts are then very high not only that the oil leval needs to be changed
.The diff is then loaded on the other edge not good at all .So I then looked at sending the crown wheel & pinon to my factory in tiwan and getting a
left hand set made .But with this in mind the set up need to still go on the left hand side of the box ( box not fliped ) it will not work .
costs came back at US $ 3000.00 for the set up charge .
I looked at also cuting the diff section off and making a plate to relocate the diff from another box .
so in the end were going to order rancho gear boxes yes there going to blow up , but what can you do .
mmm may be a suabaru twin turbo gear box up side down ! shit I have one of them in the shed , back soon :alien
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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shiftyvw
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| posted on June 20th, 2006 at 11:07 AM |
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Why rancho gearboxes? you can get all the good components locally and there are quite a few good box builders here in aus. Plus when they do break the
builder can repair them locally.
testing 1 2 3...
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nbturbo
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| posted on March 19th, 2007 at 10:02 AM |
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Computer's been down for a couple of months(they really piss me off)but I have been busy on my Drag car.Went to the half length strip here in early
March with my NB for a test and tune day and got a 9.54sec run which got me fired up.Finished the pan yasterday with the cage all welded.Have got the
join ANDRA now to get it inspected.Cut 70mm from the front beam with 1 adjuster and turned the bottom anchor 10mm-may still need to get it a little
lower-have got dropped spindles as well.Will be using a single side plate box to begin with-the one I had beefed up to fit the 2.7 Type 4 motor.I have
cut the body and had it blasted where it needs rust cut and general repairs.I will do the body work myself this time.Looks like I will have to find
some yellow paint from somewhere.I will make the whole back panel from aluminium and it will be removeable.Plastic windows all round as well.Have got
all the fitting and brackets to do now-oil and fuel tank,battery etc,B4 stripping completely to paint.
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nbturbo
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| posted on March 19th, 2007 at 10:05 AM |
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Some more
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nbturbo
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| posted on March 19th, 2007 at 10:29 AM |
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I have welded some RHS along the bottom of the pan and had some 3mm plates made and welded them to the RHS,the centre tunnel and stiched the floor pan
halves to it.I have welded the roll bar uprights to these 3mm hats.Theres a pic of the jigs I made to bolt the 2 torsion bar tubes together to keep
everything in line and square.The gear shift and handbrake cables now work in the new part of the pan and I lengthed the throttle and clutch tubes and
bought them out from their original positions and into the new top pan.Have now got a pan that is 4inches lower and 4inches longer wheel base.
[ Edited on 19-3-2007 by nbturbo ]
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nbturbo
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| posted on March 19th, 2007 at 10:41 AM |
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some more
[ Edited on 19-3-2007 by nbturbo ]
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on March 19th, 2007 at 04:19 PM |
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Wow! You have been busy.
Lookin' good!
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on March 19th, 2007 at 06:31 PM |
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Nice work Gary - great to see some progress! 
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nbturbo
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| posted on March 28th, 2007 at 09:29 PM |
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Finally got my hoist up and running.Ordered it early last August and was supposed to be 10 weeks-got here just B4 Xmas.Early January tried to get
somebody in to cut a hole in the shed floor and lay a thick piece of concrete to bolt it down on.Got that done a fortnight ago today and have just
finished drilling the cement and wiring it up.As you can see it going at last.Life should get a lot easier around here now when I have to work on some
of the toys.
[ Edited on 28-3-2007 by nbturbo ]
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on March 29th, 2007 at 12:16 PM |
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very cool, can you tell us again why you cut the body in half?
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nbturbo
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| posted on February 17th, 2008 at 03:53 PM |
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Geez,can't believe how long it's been since I have done anything with this-bloody Oval had taken over my life.Well it's done now so I can get back
into this.I have no real reason for making a ute-just something different and thought with either a lift up rear tray, or panels that just clip
on-would be much easier to work on either at home or at the strip.Have been doing some research on what to do with the motor and trans though.The
bloke who did the ECU on the Oval and has just had Adam Debias's Oval Drag Car back on the Dyno(hope I can get to Portland to see it run)reckons we
can run all electronic injection with Bosch injectors and pump and still run it on Methanol.I am on the lookout for a second hand Turbo and Throttle
Body from an XR6 BA Turbo for it.Will have to pull the heads and drop the C/R.
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hypo-vw
A.k.a.: Wayne Penrose
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 posted on February 17th, 2008 at 10:37 PM |
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well done so far !! I really like what I see and you look like you are really enjoying your new toys .
Did you think of doing a chop-top and lower the roof for better aerodynamics , as you have gone to an incredible amount of work in modifying the pan
and the body to manufacture the rollcage .
Keep up the good work and keep us posted .
Team 
FASTEST ET @ WARWICK 2010 & 2011
FASTEST SPEED @ WARWICK 2011
FASTEST ET & SPEED WSID 2012
PB - 6.33@113.07(1/8) & 9.88@135(1/4)
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nbturbo
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| posted on February 18th, 2008 at 12:27 PM |
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Yes thought of all different combos-even no roof at all,just the windscreen frame.There is a Karmann Ghia drag car in the States with no roof-looks
cool.This thing is hard enough to get in and out of with the normal roof-would have to go on a serious diet if I lowered it.
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RossPreen
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| posted on February 23rd, 2008 at 10:56 AM |
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I've been pawing over all the pics of this project and I've got to say you don't do things by halves. The work you have put in is incredible, and I
really hope you get the results to match. Well done.
Ross.
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nbturbo
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| posted on February 24th, 2008 at 01:06 PM |
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thanks fellas-got it out of hibernation yesterday and back into my shed.Have cleaned all the dust off ready to attack it again.First job is to cut the
frame head off and lift it 3 inches and shift the steering column up etc.Have been on the phone to the bloke who did the auto trans in my Oval-he is
doing some research to see if can build an auto to stay together with the torque we are expecting from the Autocraft motor.I am really impressed with
the one in my Oval.If it can be done-I will have to do all the mods to the pan to squeeze the auto in.Will be a lot easier than the Oval-it won't
matter where the motor ends up in the pan-no cooling issues.
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reub
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| posted on October 14th, 2008 at 11:06 PM |
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any progress on this one? 
Reub
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nbturbo
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| posted on October 15th, 2008 at 05:02 PM |
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Geezus Reub-can't believe how long it's been since I have done nothing to it.Spent weeks on my 4X4 getting it ready for a trip across the Simpson in
July/August,got a normal job which takes up too much of my life,and have still been trying to catch up with a backlog of work from my previous
life.Have been doing research still on the Auto and how I can run a Haltech ECU to change the injection from the old Hilborn mechanical to
electronic.Got another body to use which has bugger all rust in it and I cut the other one a bit short anyway.Have been stashing away as much cash as
possible for the VEC trip to the USA next year.
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reub
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| posted on October 15th, 2008 at 06:45 PM |
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Bugger. All in good time though...
I may be potentially entering the vw drag car building too, time will tell 
Reub
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nbturbo
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| posted on October 16th, 2008 at 03:51 PM |
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Please tell all Reub-if you build another car and it is only half as good as VWRX-then we are all in for another treat.So,what are you planning?
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nbturbo
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| posted on December 8th, 2008 at 09:33 PM |
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Took my NB Drag Racing Saturday here and the best I could do was a 9.72 so got the urge again to get my Drag Car going again.Got into it again all day
Sunday(with the occasional look at the Supercar race) and made some jigs to let me cut the front off the pan to lift the front beam up 3inches.
Stripped a standard beam down to use as a template and got all the jigs welded into place and just finished cutting out the frame head.I have fitted
8mm spacers under the lower bolts to save using castor shims,but think it may be too much.I welded some strengthening pieces to the 2 threaded tubes
for the 4 bolts, to stop them pulling thru.One side was already starting to pull.Will sart welding it all up tomorrow night.
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nbturbo
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| posted on December 8th, 2008 at 09:36 PM |
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some more
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Turbo54
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| posted on December 9th, 2008 at 09:16 AM |
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Gary, You should speak to Mike @ MV Automatics in Blackwood. No.1 with auto boxes.
1 Stirling Rd, Blackwood, SA 5051
p: (08) 8370 0430
He has the orange rodeo ute you might have seen at the drags up your way
Heath
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
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HGFS
A.k.a.: Greg
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| posted on December 9th, 2008 at 01:57 PM |
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So, LHD pan & pedals, RHD shell. Which one is it going to be?
Would be cool to see a LHD car.
Your rollcage looks good, did you have a template to build it from or are you that good that you can make it up as you go along??? Nice work either
way.
I'm going to need one someday for my car.
Hey it turns out your brother is a supplier of mine, I talk to the little old man every other day at work. Small world. He mentioned you when he saw
all the VW's on my screensaver.
Cheers,
Greg
1954 Oval long term project going nowhere
1958 Beetle drag car project
1959 Beetle project I need to sell one day
1969 Squareback
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nbturbo
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| posted on December 9th, 2008 at 03:56 PM |
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He told me he knew somebody into VW's-way over his head-he just doesn't understand.It's going to be LH drive-I got 2 sets of pedals and 2 master
cylinders out from the US-just to try something different.Bought the cage bits from a bloke in the Adelaide hills-can't remember his name at the
moment-but it will come to me.He builds drift cars/hot rod chassis etc.I had to notch all the ends and weld it in place.(it's come to me-I think
it's Leon Walker-Walker Chassis at Inglewood.
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Dak-A-Tak
A.k.a.: Peter Page
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on December 9th, 2008 at 07:05 PM |
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You need some where between 7 to 10 degrees lay back on frame head .On mine I cut hole frame head off at join just befor pan so I could make big holes
inside for any lines or cables to pass through and weight savings .
Keep the work happen mate .
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HGFS
A.k.a.: Greg
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| posted on December 11th, 2008 at 07:54 PM |
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Peter that sounds a bit like what I saw on thesamba a while back, have been planning on doing the same on mine. This was laid back 10 degrees from
memory, hopefully the pics load up.
I spoke to Adam Deb today about rollcages, he's setting up his bender in the workshop and making a cage for a car soon, so I'll probably get it done
by him. Hey Gary next time you're talking to Ray call him Snively Ray he'll have a laugh and know we've been talking 
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1954 Oval long term project going nowhere
1958 Beetle drag car project
1959 Beetle project I need to sell one day
1969 Squareback
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nbturbo
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| posted on December 11th, 2008 at 11:07 PM |
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Yes Adam knows what's needed for a cage.I have finished welding the frame head mods to lift the front beam.I cut the top plate and the horseshoe
shaped piece from inside another spare pan and welded it all onto mine for strength.Just welded some 3mm flat bar on to fill up the gaps after lifting
it up.I took out the 8mm spacers and fitted 6mm ones to the lower bolts.I ended up with 10 degrees of + castor so will put the beam back tomorrow to
check it out.
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nbturbo
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| posted on May 21st, 2009 at 10:10 PM |
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Finally bit the bullet and decided what I'm doing for a transmission-procastinated for way too long.Used some of the jigs I made to fit the auto
trans into my Oval ,and a few different pieces and have cut off the frame horns and have the Bus auto sitting in position ready to fabricate all the
hardware to make it fit.Will be a lot easier than the job on my Oval,because it will be solid mounted.
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nbturbo
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| posted on June 8th, 2009 at 06:36 PM |
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Used some of the long weekend to do a bit more.Have fabricated enough of the chassis that mounts the motor and transmission, I have cut off all the
jigs that located everything.Used inch and a half chrome moly left over from the roll cage to make the trans cage.Had to cut into the torsion bar tube
to have enough room to make the solid front mount.
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