| [ Total Views: 155189 | Total Replies: 188 | Thread Id: 50894 ] |
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 tassupervee
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| posted on October 7th, 2006 at 11:42 AM |
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K, If its a To2, its not watercooled and perfect for your clobber, if its a T2 then its watercooled (same guts as To2 tho). Probably not the best
thing to run it without water as the housings are so much larger due to water galleries and retain a lot more heat on shutdown.
Having said that, plenty of Pulsar boys run them without water and get away with it.
Perfect choice M8.
The most i have ever paid for one of these is 100 bucks. ( I have 6 of them, T2's and To2's. Im a small turbo slut!)
You can buy rebuild kit for them anywhere and rebuild them yourself. Its a no brainer so long as you orient the comp wheel and nut the same as it came
off to maintain balance.
Its the same turbo Im using on my 1600TP playtoy engine.
You can happily bost up that turbo to about 1 bar at the revs you will be using but the little T2 will be getting pretty breathless about then and the
air temp will be pretty hot as well. Highflowing it will help but if you want more than a bar of boost then its time for a good sized GT17, a T25,
folowed by a T25G and then a T28 respectively.
The T28 will have enough clout to give you up to 25 PSI boost all day long on your engine but as a pullthru arrangement, i expect youd have grenaded a
couple of engines before you got it reliable LMAO. (I know I know, Im getting ahead of myself here!)
However, ask Ian Swinkels and a legion of other blower nuts, Boosting up engines is an addiction, a sickness that cannot be controlled and nothing you
can do will control the urge to tweak it up bit by bit untill you grenade it. By the fuck youll laugh your head off grenading it tho.
Be prepared for impending turbo size changes, intercoolers and programmeable EFI........... Its coming M8........... You have just joined the club.
YOU have been placed on alert! Bwaaaahahahahahaha U fool!
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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Joel
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| posted on October 7th, 2006 at 06:07 PM |
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^^what he said 
once u start u just wanna keep getting bigger and better LOL
u cant beat a garrett tho
my first was a toyota CT12 and i was having real trouble getting a rebuild kit when the bearings went in it
-Joel
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Robo
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| posted on October 8th, 2006 at 06:34 AM |
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Stanley
Your a worry. Dose the better half know whats going on in the shed, or do you tell her your just going out there to sharpen the mower blades?
Rob...
Boxer Power
Member of DMLRK.....Die Mittler Lebuns Resto Komeradschaft
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Stanley
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| posted on October 8th, 2006 at 06:27 PM |
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It's all good Rob. Just can't wait till the ej22 conversion to Bens kombi is finished. Then I'll get my shed back to myself and can concentrate
back onto my engine.
Will get the flange adaptors made this week and get some tube for the intake manifold and carb adaptor. What should I use aluminium or some
stainless?.
I think I will need to put the engine in to work on the final position but the attached position should be fairly close to where I would like it.
Because of the waste gate actuator I can't rotate the housings although I can totate the centre housing to get the oil drain in the right place.
[ Edited on 8-10-2006 by Stanley ]
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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| posted on October 8th, 2006 at 09:31 PM |
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| Quote: | Because of the waste
gate actuator I can't rotate the housings although I can totate the centre housing to get the oil drain in the right place.
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Neh, of course you can.
The wastegate actuator is simply bolted to the back of the compressor housing.
Just piss it off while you are setting up your turbo orientation. Once done, simply redrill the holes in the housing and tap them for M6 x 1.25
All too easy.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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Stanley
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| posted on October 12th, 2006 at 07:43 PM |
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Got some ally tube today to make the adaptor between the SU and the turbo inlet. Is there a rule of thumb for length. or can I just make it as short
as i like for aesthetic reasons.
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shiftyvw
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| posted on October 13th, 2006 at 10:02 PM |
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Just for interests sake the ron lummus race setups have the turbo at the back like yours and the holley mounted in an airbox at the side windows, and
connected to the turbo by a loooong pipe, apparently theres some theory in the cooling effect on the ambient air in the long intake with the fuel???
Everyone else seems to use short setups though.
Was the conversion to carbon seal expensive?
testing 1 2 3...
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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| posted on October 14th, 2006 at 07:09 PM |
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Make it nice and short M8 and try, if you can to angle the carb slighty down towards the turbo inlet or fuel condensation and subsequent puddling in
that manifold will shit you off on cold nights.
I made this mistake once.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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Stanley
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| posted on October 15th, 2006 at 06:35 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by shiftyvw
Was the conversion to carbon seal expensive?
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Not sure shifty....I bought the turbo completely rebuilt and had it fitted as part of the deal. I hear people say thay can get turbo's for $100. The
only one I saw for that price was gummed up with oil and was cracked around the wastegate. Apparently the cracking is fairly common though. Although
these went right thru.
I looked on ebay and did the rounds of the wreckers and I'm pretty happy with the deal I got even though it cost me substantially more than $100.
Trouble free turbo and looks like new.
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Stanley
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| posted on October 15th, 2006 at 06:45 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by tassupervee
K, If its a To2, its not watercooled and perfect for your clobber, if its a T2 then its watercooled (same guts as To2 tho). Probably not the best
thing to run it without water as the housings are so much larger due to water galleries and retain a lot more heat on shutdown.
Having said that, plenty of Pulsar boys run them without water and get away with it.
Perfect choice M8.
The most i have ever paid for one of these is 100 bucks. ( I have 6 of them, T2's and To2's. Im a small turbo slut!)
You can buy rebuild kit for them anywhere and rebuild them yourself. Its a no brainer so long as you orient the comp wheel and nut the same as it came
off to maintain balance.
Its the same turbo Im using on my 1600TP playtoy engine.
Be prepared for impending turbo size changes, intercoolers and programmeable EFI........... Its coming M8........... You have just joined the club.
YOU have been placed on alert! Bwaaaahahahahahaha U fool!
L8tr
E
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TSV, was reading iswinkles page and he was running an electric water pump through his water cooled turbo via a cooler. Might even look into that
myself.
BTW wasn't having a shot at you in my last post. I have seen $100 turbo's however I really wanted something trouble free I could bolt on set and
forget. I would love to get hold of an old one and pull it apart. Might save that for the next one when I upgrade. The monster is awakening already.
Dave Butler is a bad influence....:thumb
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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| posted on October 15th, 2006 at 06:50 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Stanley
BTW wasn't having a shot at you in my last post. I have seen $100 turbo's however I really .............................. Might save that for the
next one when I upgrade. The monster is awakening already. Dave Butler is a bad influence....:thumb
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Not a problem M8, never took it that way at all.
Since im heavily involved with N12 pulsar Turbos, I have plenty of opportunities to fint small Garrett turbos.
Thats why I have collected quite a few of them. the worst one I got for 100 bucks is still quite useable.
Hehehehehehehehe "Dangerous Dave" eh? Oh yes I can see how he may have some influence!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I told you ud be planning upogrades before you even get it running LMAO
Its a disease.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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Jeza
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| posted on October 16th, 2006 at 12:40 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Stanley
TSV, was reading iswinkles page and he was running an electric water pump through his water cooled turbo via a cooler. Might even look into that
myself.
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Thinking out loud here...
what might be the negatives with running oil through the water housing on the turbo???
Would it provide enough cooling? Would surely be better than running the housing just open to the air.
...shuts up and sits down again
Cheers
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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| posted on October 16th, 2006 at 07:53 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jeza
Thinking out loud here...
what might be the negatives with running oil through the water housing on the turbo???
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Actually, i think thats a fine bit of lateral thinking and in my view I see no trouble at all!
As for rates of heat transfer...........dunno but i still see lots of merit in that idea for an air cooled engine.
Good stuff.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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Stanley
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| posted on October 17th, 2006 at 07:11 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jeza
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Stanley
TSV, was reading iswinkles page and he was running an electric water pump through his water cooled turbo via a cooler. Might even look into that
myself.
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Thinking out loud here...
what might be the negatives with running oil through the water housing on the turbo???
Would it provide enough cooling? Would surely be better than running the housing just open to the air.
...shuts up and sits down again
Cheers
Jeremy
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Just to clarify....he wasn't running oil he was running water from a tank using a small electric pump then running it through the turbo then through
a cooler tucked up inside his guard. I think he had a 20deg reduction in temp as a result. Check his website.
Cheers.
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1916
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| posted on October 17th, 2006 at 02:44 PM |
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he was using a pwr water to air barrell cooler kit...very effective but also pricey.
well over the $1000 mark i believe.
"what kinda creator would make a race of people
and make em act a certain way or else He deems 'em evil?
HOW can You give a living being the freedom to breathe
and then lead em into a sea of decievers who greet em, see!"
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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| posted on October 19th, 2006 at 07:18 PM |
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With only a modicum of imagination a very simple and importantly, cheap cooler arrangement can be made utillising the thermosyphon principle.
After all, japanese small motocross bikes were cooled like this for many years.
I still like the oil circulation idea!
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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Stanley
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| posted on October 21st, 2006 at 08:22 PM |
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Got all the flanges for the turbo back today from being profile cut.
Get the aluminium adaptor I made from the turbo to the SU back next week. Just need to get it welded and then the face machined to make sure its still
flat after welding.
Also managed to get the new 3/8 stainless fuel line installed. I've taken the easy way out and run it through the car next to the tunnel and bent it
so it stays snug next to the tunnel.
Just need to get the pressure end flared so I can run AN fittings. Now all I need to do is go shopping at work for some aluminium AN fittings.
With any luck I should be able to install the engine next weekend (depending on kombi progress) and then I can start fabbing the muffler tubes to and
from the turbo.
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Turbo54
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| posted on October 26th, 2006 at 09:50 PM |
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Keep up the good work Stanley, I too have thought about running oil through the water galleries on my turbo but I have decieded to make a little water
system soley for the turbo that goes through a 2001 CR125 right side radiator that will be mounted under tha passenger guard with my muffler. The
reason I have used the filler side is that I have mounted the tap on the under neath so it is easy to drain. A shower waterpump out of a caravan will
pump the circuit.
Also with the flanges run steel, not stainless steel. It is soft ans expands and contracts too much and will not seal properly. Adam Debaisi has these
precut and there about $8 each. (08) 8262 7533. Should have mine back on the weekend from the injection being fit.
T54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
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Stanley
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| posted on October 29th, 2006 at 07:50 PM |
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I was hoping to get the crank end float done this weekend so I could put the engine in but the gland nut and washer hasn't arrived yet.
Thought i'd take the opportunity to install a new 3/8 od stainless fuel tube and electric fuel pump. I've run it next to the tunnel and with a few
well placed bends has come out nice and snug.
A few rubber grommets to seal it all up and you don't even know it's there.
Will use the old pipe as the return. I have drilled and tapped the large inhex bung in the top corner of the tank to accept the return flow from the
press reg.
I have done a cut and shut on the old tank fittingto accept aluminium AN threaded fittings. Everything on the engine presssure end will be threaded AN
fittings.
Here's afew pics. First time i've [ulled up all the carpet. Previos owner was pretty liberal with the red oxide. Looks worse than it is.
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Jeza
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| posted on October 30th, 2006 at 09:58 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by tassupervee
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jeza
Thinking out loud here...
what might be the negatives with running oil through the water housing on the turbo???
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Actually, i think thats a fine bit of lateral thinking and in my view I see no trouble at all!
As for rates of heat transfer...........dunno but i still see lots of merit in that idea for an air cooled engine.
Good stuff.
L8tr
E
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Thanx Tass
One day I'll stop thinking about this and actually give it a go myself. I've got pretty much everything I need, mexi-beetle efi stuff and a Haltech
ECU. Maybe I'll give it a go once I've got the Type 4 fitted to my car.
Good work Stanley, keep up the updates.
Cheers
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
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Stanley
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| posted on December 17th, 2006 at 08:04 PM |
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Well finally got a spare minute to do some work on the TAT turbo. I'm supposed to be on holidays but some work stuff still going on.
Positive side is I bought a TIG welder y'day so I can now fabricate all my own intake and exhaust hence the reason for the pics.
Had to orientate the turbo inlet and exhaust flange so i'll have to make a new bracket for the waste gate actuator.
But it's now hanging where it will go and fits under the decklid with the stand offs so long as I can the pipes bent ok.
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Stanley
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| posted on December 17th, 2006 at 08:14 PM |
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mmmm...looks like a bunch of stuff got lost in the crash.
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Stanley
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| posted on December 28th, 2006 at 07:55 PM |
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This is the final resting place for the turbo. The intake manifold is done just have ti fire up the tig and weld it together.
Everything fits under the decklid with hoodjax. Although I know there will be an ambient temp increase I hope the heat generated from the turbo
doesn't affect the genny.
Hopefully I can get a blanket for the turbo. As soon as the shops reopen i'll start on the exhaust.
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dangerous
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| posted on December 29th, 2006 at 08:06 AM |
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Man, it is coming along.....it is really going to happen!!
I cant wait to see how it goes!
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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Joel
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| posted on December 29th, 2006 at 08:57 AM |
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hey Stanley
those silicon hoses on ur inlet manifolds
they'd be about 42mm ID?
im doing the same thing atm and cant get a set anywhere
anychance u could point me in the right direction?
everyone i try says thats not a common size yadda yadda ya
re the turbo and genny my old set up was pretty much in the same spot but it was a ablow thro so the turbo was directly above the genny and also alot
closer
i actually used the gen strap as a support for the turbo
but with hoodjax had no temp issues but it was only running for about 500kms
thanks
Joel
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Stanley
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| posted on December 29th, 2006 at 11:19 AM |
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Spot on Joel....The stainless tube has a 42mm od. The silicone tube I have is 40mm id.
Its a snug fit on the stainless but fits nicely on the std manifolds, vaso helps. I bought the silicone from Ipswich truck parts. They have every size
you can imagine. Try any truck place.
And Dave...I can't wait to see if it goes...:o
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Stanley
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| posted on January 8th, 2007 at 07:30 PM |
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Now the tig is up and running i've had a chance to make some progress.
pic 1 is the finished intake manifold. Had to notch it out to fit under the genny stand.
pic 2 is the turbo sitting on the manifold where it will sit. if you look carefully you will see the exhaust manifold poking up in front of the crank
pulley. This will mate to the exhaust inlet this week end.
pic 3 is the exhaust before fitment
[ Edited on 8-1-2007 by Stanley ]
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Stanley
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| posted on January 8th, 2007 at 07:39 PM |
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pic 4 is underneath looking up.
pic 5 is looking down from the rear.
I was trying to make it as short as possible and not to take up too much room.
I would also like to thank Dave Butler who supplied a header system that I was able to cut and shut to make the bends I needed and of course my wife
who allowed me to get my TIG for christmas.
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pete wood
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| posted on January 10th, 2007 at 02:38 PM |
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good stuff mate. :thumb
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VWFREAK
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| posted on January 10th, 2007 at 04:29 PM |
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Looks the goods can't wait to see how she runs, as I have the same type of project on the go.
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