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Author: Subject:  Have put engine back in but now it doesnt work??? solved. now onto next problem
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posted on April 24th, 2009 at 03:10 AM



Just wanted to say I have been following this thread from start as I was looking at all areas to poach from. Ironic that we both get cars going at same time. Mine initially was also running fast but the idle adjustments fixed that. Your very lucky having mustard so close to you.



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posted on April 24th, 2009 at 06:58 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by matara
Also run it with the throttle cable disconnected just to eliminate any sticky cable or pedal issues.


start here

In fact you should start tuning your carbs with the linkage disconnected




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posted on April 24th, 2009 at 10:16 PM



ok we figured out that it is not a sticky linkage.. so now thats eliminted.

i played with the mixture screws a bit more... i think i took them all out of sync so i wound them back down to the bottom and turned them anti clockwise 2 turns each...
i think this could be a bit lean though?

it seemed to run a lot slower but it still does seem to pick up a bit... seemed different every time we started it up
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posted on April 24th, 2009 at 10:57 PM



We did some cool stuff on the t3 today. I hope to post up some pic's tomorrow morningish. I took this sweet cat for a run this morning, and I'm over kadrons and onto dells. Totally. Amazing. Seriously, It goes super hard for a 1600. And no offence to Izac - but he did pretty darn good for a non pro tune. A pro could get it amazing - but I'm now sure I could and would run these on a type 1. Justness to really watch the linkage on this kit... Can cause scary sounds if you don't tighten everything.

If think we established that it's mega important to have each barrel tuned the same, obviously - ( that was causing it to run lean). We also established that it's important to put the exhaust back on tightly - ( we got a fair bit of mini backfiring and clamps rattling)
The idle was speeding up and getting faster - I speculated that it may be the linkage? Anyone have any thoughts on that???? It did dissapear however - it had gotten hot by that stage. It will be interesting to hear reports of what it does next time it's cold.

Anyway. Breather wise - I got a nice one thad ready to go in and some good quality braided hose. The pod look filter is just a temp measure, hopefully izac gets the breather box in the next few days and I should be sweet. Photo's in the morning.
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posted on April 24th, 2009 at 11:24 PM



siezing bearings on the throttle shafts
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posted on April 25th, 2009 at 08:23 AM



Daimo, I will check this out.. what should i be looking for?
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posted on April 25th, 2009 at 08:27 AM



would spraying some wd40 on the bearings help maybe?
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posted on April 25th, 2009 at 08:31 AM



from what i can tell, you're playing with dual dellortos that are running at all sorts of different idle rates?.......

disconect linkage, open and close each carb individually to see if one or the other is not consistently falling back to the idle adjustment screws.......the spring right near those stops can get full off gunk and be sticky/inconsistent.........behind there, are some bearings in the body of the carb that the trottle shafts run through.......try some wd 40 or inox etc........bearings on vboth ends of carbs to clean........

seen em siezed before....

but who knows, could be many thimgs

keep us informed
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posted on April 25th, 2009 at 11:49 AM



http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu341/jason_aniolkowski/IMG_0205.jpg
That is the temp breather... looks lameish... but the box will be good.

http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu341/jason_aniolkowski/IMG_0208.jpg
Thats where the breather will go..... most likely. Has anyone ever done this on a square before.... any suggestions for not doing it this way???

http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu341/jason_aniolkowski/IMG_0217.jpg
the man himself tuning those carbs!!!

As I stated last night... Izac did well with this set up, they are tuned pretty darn good, and it goes pretty hard. I like it.

http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu341/jason_aniolkowski/IMG_0224.jpg
he is the proud owner on a Type 3. :)



Hey Izac, that guy on thesamba still has the dells up for sale... do you think he had more than one set>???
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posted on April 25th, 2009 at 11:59 AM



Get yourself a test light and start tracing.

It,s slow and boring but the only way.

Cheers Col
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posted on April 25th, 2009 at 12:16 PM



its running now Col! :)
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posted on April 25th, 2009 at 04:41 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by colonel mustard

http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu341/jason_aniolkowski/IMG_0208.jpg
Thats where the breather will go..... most likely. Has anyone ever done this on a square before.... any suggestions for not doing it this way???




yeah, oil collected will leak out the lid........and it will collect there if you DON"T have a line from the carb tops to the vacumn the crank case!
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posted on April 25th, 2009 at 06:25 PM



cool thanks for that Daimo will try and work something out..

made an interesting discovery today. I was talking to a grumpy old man (good friend) who has been into Volkswagens since the 60's and he was telling me that the reason its idling fast could be that the chokes havent been dismantled properly and could still be partly operational causing the higher idle speed.
i took off the cover i had put back on the chokes after dismantling the and found that there was still a gold thing that moves up and down inside it...?? anyway it was getting dark so i put the cover back on and went to put the car away...BUT as i was turning it around in the drive way the engine kept cutting out because it was idling so slowly!! i think playing withe choke thing might have disengaged it... even though i only touched one side..
you can see how ive covered the choke in this pic
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww225/izac_photos/100_2816.jpg

Daimo i dont think it is a seized bearing because I took off the thottle rods and started it (so each carb was operating separately) and the idle started off at a nice speeed then got faster and i didnt even touch them... :fakesniff:

i will look at it more tomorrow... hopefully i am on to something though:yes:
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posted on April 25th, 2009 at 08:00 PM



Keep tinkering mate, you will learn sooooo much.

Cheers Col
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posted on April 25th, 2009 at 11:16 PM



I just had a thought about what damino is saying. it will leak.... so maybe making up some brackets (or buying some) is a good idea... so the lid is on top, not the side, then no oil can leak out. and then you have better clearance and you can service the breather without taking everything off. yeah???
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posted on April 26th, 2009 at 10:41 AM



yeah i was thinking of doing something like this...


[ img ] http://www.vwispwest.com/ebay/type3breather.jpg  [ /img]

check out the cool air filters in this photo..
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posted on April 26th, 2009 at 10:49 AM



that looks good. any other photo's of how they mounted that??? that is going to tappet covers hey.... you could do that. drill them out or buy some bolt ons so you dont kill your originals.
Looks sweet. Have you got the idle speed sorted out???

Also, those air cleaners look a bit shorter than yours hey..... and they have used dome nuts rather than the wingnuts....... that would make the one on the very right on your car easy to undo. maybe a bit extra clearance also.
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posted on April 26th, 2009 at 11:06 AM



What vents did you end up using??



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posted on April 26th, 2009 at 11:22 AM



some pre taped covers...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=757390 
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=701640 

or you could get some nice ones...
http://www.classicveedub.com.au/SpareParts/Parts_Results_Monthly_Specials.asp...
http://www.classicveedub.com.au/images/SpareParts/body_trim_parts/EG-164-B.jpg
(the flat 4 set... $150)
Or ... Classic also has CB ones for like $95...
http://www.classicveedub.com.au/images/SpareParts/engine_performance/1702d.jpg

You just need two more of the breather things... Yes I have 2 more, if you need them, or these..
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=734424 


there you go... easy research.
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posted on April 26th, 2009 at 03:56 PM



ok got the idle speed all sorted out! it ended up being the chokes that were the problem... i took the covers right off with the circle thing inside them and now it idles very nicely at about 800 - 900 rpm (just a guess).. the chokes must have been stuck causing more fuel to get passed the butterflys..

however they (the left side especially) make a hiss noise every once in a while at random... when it happens you can see the gold thing in side the choke chamber spin around... im not sure why this is???

Bizarre, I ended up using the 32's as suggested and they work very well thanks!

Jason, I'm gonna make up some brackets to come off the fan housing bolts to the left of the oil breather... im not to keen on running hoses to the tappet covers if i can get away without it...?

I also had a small fuel leak from where the fuel line (going to left carb) comes from the fuel pump. i had to use a bigger hose so i could get it on the carb inlet which is bigger than the fuel pump nozzle... so now im running another inline filter with a smaller line on the pump side as a temporary fix until i figure out what to.... i dont really like having the second filter there...
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posted on April 26th, 2009 at 03:58 PM



as for carb clearance issues, i am goiing to try and put some rubber spacers under the 5 subframe mounts to try and lift the body up off the engine a bit.
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posted on April 26th, 2009 at 04:21 PM



so that fuel line came in handy? and the filter?? What does it look like now.... sounds a bit scary. You can get away with not going into the tappet covers, if you can find a way to breathe into the air filters... Not sure how you will do this, as there is no clearance on the top... so you have to find a spot to do it underneath there. Sounds like you got it running better, nice work man!
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posted on April 26th, 2009 at 08:48 PM



nah that fuek line is way too big man :sniffle: but the problem is that the fuel pump fitting pulls out from teh pump and causes a leak (because it is not sealed properly)...
i think i am going to buy a new one... where can i buy these from in Oz? i here a rotary one is best for Dells...
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posted on April 27th, 2009 at 05:11 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by izac
as for carb clearance issues, i am goiing to try and put some rubber spacers under the 5 subframe mounts to try and lift the body up off the engine a bit.


:no:
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posted on April 27th, 2009 at 06:15 PM



no?:blush:
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posted on April 27th, 2009 at 06:23 PM



heres some pics of the pipe that keeps pulling out of the fuel pump... i dont think it shoud do this,..

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posted on April 27th, 2009 at 06:35 PM



Step One

GET THAT FIXED!!




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posted on April 27th, 2009 at 06:36 PM



pipe pulled out of pump stuck in fuel line

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww225/izac_photos/100_2839.jpg
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posted on April 27th, 2009 at 06:41 PM



Get a new pump
A German one - not Brazillian/Mexican
Better still get an old german one and get it repaired

Yours is the fixable sort (all the srews)

Personally i wouldnt chance sticking that back in your one you have

You have WAY TOO MUCH to loose




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posted on April 27th, 2009 at 06:48 PM



dude!!! wow. wow!!! fix that!!!!!!

Surely custom would have a few boxes of old ones......... get them to rebuild one for you.

scary stuff......


Could you use a type 1 alternator pump on there??? I got one from classicveedub for $50 or so, just make sure you have the right size pushrod, and that the plastic block is in good condition.
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