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Author: Subject:  New Weber IDF 40's - initial set up.
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posted on October 18th, 2009 at 10:48 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Bizarre
just use the manifolds you already have??

Otherwise the ball pein hammer
Or go to a 36hp style fan housing.




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posted on October 19th, 2009 at 07:18 AM



BTW - they definitely wont fit untill you take off the cold start / enrichment circuit thingy



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posted on October 20th, 2009 at 06:27 PM



I will have to junk my painted tinware I think - to be really honest I am not a big fan of the bright green engine tin. Looks a bit girly. So I think I will get a matt black :ninja: one instead.

Are the 36HP with heater tubes the same shape or do I need to go with the tinware without the heater tubes to make it fit? Terry




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posted on October 20th, 2009 at 07:51 PM



mmmm................. a 36HP shroud with heater tubes is the same shape as a 36HP shroud with out

http://images.google.com.au/images?hl=en&source=hp&q=VW+36+HP+shroud&...

trouble is they dont have the correct veins inside to direct the air as the one you have

Why cant you use your current manifolds??

A 36IDF and 40IDF is the same shape




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posted on October 20th, 2009 at 08:09 PM



Here is a picture of the motor. The tinware on mine seems to step out where the heater tubes emerge. Not sure what version they are but the 36HP stuff seems to have a cleaner profile / arch down to the heads.

Do I need to change the rest of the tinware to suit?

Also I made a booboo and sold my whole kit - 36's manifolds / linkages etc etc before I got my new set- so I don't have the old manifolds anymore. I learned a lesson there. Sell it at the end - after it all works and is together.

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posted on October 20th, 2009 at 08:16 PM



I am 99% sure they are the same width at the base
They just curve over quicker

Again - i would just e putting the 40's on the manifolds you have




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posted on October 20th, 2009 at 09:02 PM



The same lower tin will work, the 36hp shroud doesn't flare out above the barrel covers like the normal vw heater fan housing. It sure makes access better.



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posted on October 21st, 2009 at 06:39 PM



Nice and neat - sounds like the go.

What's the deal with the internal baffles though - I don't want to cook it!




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posted on October 21st, 2009 at 06:57 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Bizarre
mmmm................. a 36HP shroud with heater tubes is the same shape as a 36HP shroud with out

http://images.google.com.au/images?hl=en&source=hp&q=VW+36+HP+shroud&...

trouble is they dont have the correct veins inside to direct the air as the one you have

Why cant you use your current manifolds??

A 36IDF and 40IDF is the same shape


As far as I know most of the doghouse style 36hp shrouds do have the veins inside, I know the one on my car certainly does.
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posted on October 21st, 2009 at 09:26 PM



Thanks Gracey - Don't suppose anyone has a picha? Tez



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posted on October 21st, 2009 at 09:49 PM



you want the one that has the 5 veins............this is the same as the OEM Doghouse fanshroud.



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posted on October 21st, 2009 at 10:05 PM



My old 2332 IDA motor with the 36 shroud. Has vanes inside, the compromise is the vanes are only welded to one skin of the housing not both sides. It makes for a clean front so I feel an acceptable tradeoff if kept an eye on.

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posted on October 21st, 2009 at 10:24 PM



hey matt
bet you DONT drive that down my dusty street.. ;)




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posted on October 21st, 2009 at 11:09 PM



Right there Paul, gonna terrorise your street with this one day

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posted on October 22nd, 2009 at 07:41 AM



Most of the adds say this
"THESE 36HP STYLE SHROUDS FEATURE EXCELLENT FIT AND FINISH ALONG WITH CORRECTLY ENGINEERED INTERNAL AIR BAFFLES"

AC.net says this

The 36hp shape is cleaner and gives more dual carburetor clearance than the later model styles.
IMPORTANT: SCAT tin is the best available new (old german tin is the best, but they have 3 small problems you need to know about before you order!

1: the generator/alternator backing plate mounting screws are rotated about 5 degrees CCW from straight. This doesn't matter unless you look real close, OR if you use a BERG carb linkage! Since BERG linkgage mounts on the shroud, it won't be straight without modification!

2: the little air vanes on the inside are spot welded in place. Engine vibration WILL break these spot welds, unless you get some silicone and smear it between the shroud and vane (this dampens the vibration and they won't break loose anymore), do as many as you can!

3: the cylinder covers are MISSING the little air deflectors that route the air away from the center/upper head nuts (look at stock tin), you may want to omit these, or weld them in place. This kit is NOT available without these pieces, you would have to buy the components separately.

See, we don't BS you on our parts

I have seen several that had NO deflectors inside.
Just as long as you know what you are buying




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posted on October 22nd, 2009 at 08:08 AM



Funky linkage Matt. Haven't seen that one before.

Thanks guys for the input - I think I should be able to get the right thing with that information!
The cylinder covers etc etc - I will pull it out and check it. Cheers. Terry




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posted on October 22nd, 2009 at 09:28 AM
.


out of interest would 44 idfs be too big for a 1916 with large valves?



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posted on October 24th, 2009 at 09:30 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by rexy
out of interest would 44 idfs be too big for a 1916 with large valves?

Short answer. No

Long answer
Depends on other factors, cam, comp ratio, desired rev range, driving style, car type and gearing.




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