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Author: Subject:  Novice attempts engine pull down and rebuild - let the questions begin
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posted on January 13th, 2010 at 10:04 PM



Yes, yasdnil01 does indeed sell engine stands because I've just bought one which will hopefully arrive in the next few days. Then I can actually make some progress on the engine.

Dumb question Joel, but what is the 'hoover bit'?

Craig




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posted on January 14th, 2010 at 09:41 AM



Its that little bit of metal bolted to the back of the oil-cooler.
It just gets rid of the gap between the oilcooler and the dog house.
Getting pretty rare these days.




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posted on January 14th, 2010 at 06:53 PM



yup,

there on the newby compulsory throw out list along with breast plate tins, lower cylinder tins and thermostat flaps
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posted on January 14th, 2010 at 08:14 PM



Don't worry Joel, if you saw my garage and shed you'd know I never throw anything out. :crazy:

Anyway, the engine stand arrived today and I've put it together this evening, should hold everything very nicely. Now I just need to attach it to the engine and put it on the stand, and then work can start..... in fits and starts :lol:




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posted on January 14th, 2010 at 09:59 PM



sadly me being the same over the last 15+ years is why i ended up with too much vw crap that im now having to send to the dump cos its just got way out of hand
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posted on January 14th, 2010 at 11:06 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
now having to send to the dump



What!!!




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posted on January 17th, 2010 at 05:46 PM



NEVER send VW stuff to the dump! there are plenty of people who can use it on here! :crazy:
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posted on January 18th, 2010 at 11:19 AM



people always say that but its never the case

i gave plenty of warning and as usual it just gets the eyes picked out with a few common parts
noone wants boxes of german tinware when u give it away, but the second it goes to the dump theres an outcry

exactly like when brad had his clean up
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posted on January 25th, 2010 at 01:18 PM



Just had my stand delivered from almetal. It was custom made to suit my Repco engine stand that used a 60mm shaft. Top job with reasonable price and very quick delivery. Highly recommend!
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posted on February 6th, 2010 at 03:38 PM
Flywheel removal problems!!!


OK, so this afternoon had Pete Wood around here with the flywheel lock and a 1300mm bar attached to the socket.

We tried every way, me standing on one side (80kg), Pete standing on the bar (90kg) and vice versa, and that sucker wasn't going anywhere.

Soooooooo, what next?

Suggestions, ideas, helpful hints, high explosives etc welcomed.

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posted on February 6th, 2010 at 04:03 PM



Rattle Gun?



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posted on February 6th, 2010 at 04:46 PM



get a longer bar and another mate on the other end. It has to let go at some point
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posted on February 6th, 2010 at 07:20 PM



Are these things of any use??

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036 




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posted on February 21st, 2010 at 02:33 PM



Well the good news is that a rattle gun sorted out the problem of the annoying flywheel in double quick time. So now the engine is finally on the engine stand, it's just a shame that I'll have no time for the next fortnight to do anything else. :sniffle:

Just as well it's not a race :crazy:

http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af296/craig179/Engine%20Pull%20down/enginefinallyonstand.jpg




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posted on February 21st, 2010 at 06:05 PM



Hey, no wish to hijack this thread however does anyone have a "hoover bit" for sale?
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posted on February 22nd, 2010 at 09:34 AM



great work man.Keep it up.



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posted on February 22nd, 2010 at 04:57 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by hulbyw
Hey, no wish to hijack this thread however does anyone have a "hoover bit" for sale?


if your handy enough or know someone who is theyre not overly hard to bend up

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posted on February 22nd, 2010 at 08:08 PM



Thanks Joel! Looks straight forward enough. Doesn't look like any Hoover I have seen though
Cheers
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posted on February 23rd, 2010 at 09:14 PM



its just cos its all flat sheetmetal

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/558791.jpg


and doesnt have pressed strengthening ribs like a stock one

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/463044.jpg
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posted on March 7th, 2010 at 03:50 PM



Well did a lot of pulling the engine apart yesterday, photos will follow a little later.

First problem was I discoverd the old metal dish I emptied the oil into had a little rust hole at the bottom, which resulted in quite a bit of oil on the floor, but once that was sorted we were away.

So, I've got the heads and cylinders off, even though 3 of the cylinders decided they wanted to stay on the heads, and I've discovered how difficult it is to remove the crankshaft pulley, even after the bolt has been removed. So now I'll probably buy myself a puller for the pulley!! The heads and cylinders and such like are now sitting in a tub part way through cleaning.

So today's dumb question: How do you remove the piston pins? I've tried arguing with them, but that isn't working. Any suggestions???

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posted on March 7th, 2010 at 04:22 PM



with a pin driver and hammer.......take the wire circlips off first, don't hit the rings against the head studs
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posted on March 7th, 2010 at 07:00 PM



Thanks for that. Are pin drivers a standard size (and therefore available at any auto store), or will I need one sized for this engine particularly?

Either way, here are some photos of some sad looking 36 year old pistons and heads. Just as well I'm planning on replacing all this with new (and larger) stuff.

Judging by the amount of goo around the outside of the cylinders, the cooling system wouldn't have had much impact on the temperature of the engine. I don't think any air could have made it through, and it certainly wasn't running over the metal taking heat away.

Cheers
Craig

http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af296/craig179/Engine%20Pull%20down/pistonnumber2.jpg

http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af296/craig179/Engine%20Pull%20down/Pistonnumber4.jpg

http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af296/craig179/Engine%20Pull%20down/headandcylinders.jpg

Note the cylinders still attached to the head, will hopefully unstick them soon.




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posted on March 13th, 2010 at 02:59 PM



OK, at the risk of sounding like the apprentice searching for left handed screwdrivers, where I am going to find something to get the piston pins out? Nothing available at Supercheap was going to do the business. I know Muir suggests using a socket of the correct size to hammer it with, and perhaps I'm just being a bit namby pamby with my whacking and I just need to hit it harder???

As always, any advice greatfully received.

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posted on March 13th, 2010 at 03:09 PM



Hey Craig,

Id remove the whole piston head mate, your going to domit anyway so there isnt much pijnt in fart arseing around getting the rings off.

The rings should flex enough to be about to pull them over the top of the piston head itself, clean them up and pout them back of I supose.

While your at it, put the pistions in some cleanser and gove them a clean aswell.

Can you do a massive favour thoigh, can you put some rags in the block opening, there is alsorts of rad crap going in there.,LOL.

Alos, if your going to spit the block, it would be easier to take your conrods off the shafts and clean them that way, watch the bearings though.


Hope it helps.

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posted on March 13th, 2010 at 03:11 PM



sorry about my spelling aswel, I broke half my nail off at work and have a bandaid on, so im hitting all sorts of keys



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posted on March 13th, 2010 at 08:13 PM



Silly question Craig but you have got both circlips out right?
those wrist pins can be tight little buggers

but i only ever use a deep socket to knock them out as well

Stute, that engine is so gunked up inside it needs a full tear down and clean out anywayz
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posted on March 13th, 2010 at 09:16 PM



Thanks guys, not a silly question Joel, because my knowledge is next to nil, but yes both circlips are out, I think I'll just have to whack harder, and yes, it'll be a long socket otherwise I'll just replace one pin with another!!!

I think everything is hard to move because I don't think it's been apart in its 36 years of life, and yep, it's pretty gunked up. Makes me wonder about the state of the one sitting in my car at the moment of identical vintage which has likewise probably never been pulled apart.

Fortuantely, I'll be replacing the pistons etc, because the plan is to increase capacity. I suspect there may not be much left of the original engine by the time I finish :dork:




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posted on April 1st, 2010 at 09:21 PM



Well I have discovered the joys of having the right tools for the job. :dork: I got myself a crankshaft pulley puller and a wrist pin pusher, and got the pulley off and all the pistons off, so tonight I've moved on to the oil pump, and having learned my lesson, also got myself an oil pump puller.

Despite having the correct tool, and following the instructions in the Bentley Manual, the oil pump does not want to come out. :grind: It's stuck. So I've liberally applied WD40 and given it a gentle love tap with the rubber mallet and given up hit and hurt for the night. All it looked like it was doing was bending (albeit not by much) the forks on the puller.

So I'll try again tomorrow. Once that's out I might almost be able to get the case apart!!!

In the meantime and hints for dealing with recalcitrant oil pumps would be appreciated.

Cheers
Craig




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posted on April 1st, 2010 at 09:40 PM



Hi Craig

Leave the oil pump in until you start to split the case, once the case starts to split whip it out then.

I cant believe how cruddy the motor was inside, it had many oil changes when we had it, I guess that's why the oil got black so quickly.

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posted on April 1st, 2010 at 09:44 PM



Ok, a bit late now, but a wrist pin puller is east to make from about 8" of threaded rod and a piece of 25mm conduit. With the oil pump, if you loosen the nearest case studs it'll be easier, but with an engine that old and crappy looking, I just pull the oil pump studs and while splitting the case it'll probably fall on the floor. A well placed rubbish bin may save your back :).



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