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Author: Subject:  Superbug Searching - Completed!
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posted on April 22nd, 2010 at 05:44 PM



I bought a pair of chrome ones from Classic VeeDub and they seem pretty good



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posted on April 22nd, 2010 at 05:58 PM



Irocically, the "broken" one on my car is actually just missing the knob. So all I may need is the knob off a broken one. :smirk:



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1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
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posted on April 22nd, 2010 at 06:24 PM



How about the name 'Martini'.

Not sure where I got it from :D




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posted on April 22nd, 2010 at 09:09 PM



Hi

The best factory style handle is this one, used on later water-cooled cars.

Steve

http://www2.cip1.com/v/vspfiles/photos/VWC-321-837-581-2.jpg
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posted on April 26th, 2010 at 10:03 PM



Well, I arrived home with my "Prize" around 5pm this afternoon after leaving Marong (near Bendigo) about 3pm and stopping for a very late lunch and some fuel in Woodend. I'm very pleased with my purchase. :D

The only problems coming home was that the battery decided to die, so I had to push or jump start the car every time I stopped. No big deal.

The more I drive it, the more the car seemed to free up. In the early part of the jopurney I was sitting between 100-110km/h and havaing to floor it up the hills. By the time I got home I had to watch my speed, as I crept up to 120km/h on the flats a couple of times, and also found I was accelerating up the hills if I floored it. But the country was flatter, so that's probably part of it.

Oh yeah, the odometer decided to freeze up halfway through the journey.

So now I have a few questions for L bug owners:
- What do the knobs on the dash do (I have no handbook)? I worked out the two speed blower, but not what the other two beside them do?
- Similarly, the two levers between the seats for the heater. Is one heat for the front and the other rear? Or is each one the heat for that side?
- How do I fix the odometer (mileometer) in the speedo? Lubrication?
- Is it possible to set up electric washers using the factory stalk on the column? Or will I have to fit a non-standard push button on the dash? Alternatively, how do I get the factory spare tyre setup working again?

Cheers,
Brett.




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1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
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posted on April 26th, 2010 at 10:08 PM



Brett,

go to samba.com you can search and download a owners manual i have a 69 one here if you need it




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posted on April 26th, 2010 at 10:34 PM



You have 7 days to down load the driver manuals from here

https://www.yousendit.com/download/OHo1eFVkWkI1R00wTVE9PQ 




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posted on April 26th, 2010 at 10:45 PM



Thanks Bizzare. I will download them this week. :tu:

Pics at my home:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/bnicho/VW/DSC08646.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/bnicho/VW/DSC08648.jpg

The family check her out:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/bnicho/VW/DSC08639.jpg

My Beetle-crazy son Kenzie gives his approval:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/bnicho/VW/DSC08641.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/bnicho/VW/DSC08643.jpg

Cheers,




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1974 VW Superbug L - Olive :cool:
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
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posted on April 26th, 2010 at 10:59 PM



My L bug speedo wasn't working when I got it but the needle did, I removed a cover on the back and the fuel guage and the drive cog for the odometer wasn't meshing and only needed pushing sideways a little, has worked fine ever since. Speedo just pops out, need to mark wires etc and unscrew cable, 1/2 hour job.
Heater levers: closest to driver is for the front, left for the rear
The two knobs next to the fan switch operate the butterfly valves to allow fresh air from the grill on top of the boot to the tiny vents above the knobs, if you don't get air there might be a plastic pipe missing somewhere, I had to replace a few bits and re-attach the knob cables but works well now, well enough to leave the wing windows closed most times which is a bit quieter. If your L is cruising at 110 it is in good nick:tu:
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posted on April 27th, 2010 at 12:35 AM



The speedo may also just need a little lubrication. I had to do that once.

The levers on the tunnel beside the handbrake - the right one (drivers side) turns on the heat from the engine to both sides of the car - The left one (Passengers side) turns on the 2 vents under the rear seat, in the footwell. Heat only comes out if the other lever is pulled up.

There should be a heater vent in the front footwells (near the floor), each with their own lever to turn them on. Once again, heat only comes out if the right hand lever on the tunnel is pulled up. Pull the levers back to turn them on, foreward is off.

The 2 round knobs on the dash - the right hand one opens the air to all the vents to the dash - windscreen, side windows, and centre vents to the occupants - The left hand one opens the centre vents to the occupants (you only get air if the right hand knob is open). If the right hand lever on the tunnel is pulled up, you get warm air out of all these dash vents. Turn the vents anti-clockwise to turn them on - they start with a 'tight' bit of a turn - and clockwise to turn them off, turning untill you get past the 'tight' bit to close them right up.

Of course, this is all if everything is in place and hooked up.




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posted on April 27th, 2010 at 10:29 AM



the odometer is a common one.
the drive gear is only plastic and breaks in half
if your feeling adventurous early speedos have the cog made of brass and that can be retrofitted

jeff has nailed the heater system but the way i remember the 2 fresh air knobs is this

V W
left one Vent
right one Windscreen

if you turn them clockwise i think it is youll feel they lock just at the end, thats off
the otherway opens then up letting fresh air from outside in
vent one is just for the outlets above the radio

windscreen one is for the outlets below the windscreen and the 2 round ones on the edgeof the dash that do the door glass
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posted on April 27th, 2010 at 06:16 PM



Jeff,

I assume the vent levers are the same for my 69? Awesome explanation until reading your post i still couldn't figure it out




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posted on April 28th, 2010 at 08:07 PM



Thanks for the replies. I've figured out how the heater/fan/vent controls work now. They are all connected and working fine!

I will worry about the odometer after she is registered.

Did a bit of fiddling today. The handbrake cables are adjusted to the max and don't do anything, although there is a little tension on the cables. I reckon she may just need to have the rear drums adjusted up, or even new shoes.

We have decided she will be called Olive. The name just seems to suit her, being that colour. :)

Cheers,




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posted on April 28th, 2010 at 10:24 PM



The name olive suits her so what are your plans? New set of wheels???



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posted on April 28th, 2010 at 10:33 PM



Plans are to get her registered.

After that, I'm thinking;
- Add some tunes.
- Fix the headliner.
- Add a set of wheels (preferably chromed widened stockies - Mangels?).
- Drop the front end 1-2 inches.
- Add a 2" tacho in the dash and volt and oil pressure guages under the dash.

Basically nothing radical, just subtle changes that can be easily reversed.

I have the inspection booked for Monday. Almost every car fails, so I'll just let it fail and fix what's on the list I guess.




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posted on April 28th, 2010 at 10:36 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by bnicho

- Add a set of wheels (preferably chromed widened stockies - Mangels?).



There is a set of mangels with tyres for sale on here for $200 I would by them but my family prefers the Empi 8 spokes




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posted on April 28th, 2010 at 10:38 PM



Yeah, I'm waiting on a repy from the guy with the mangels.



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posted on April 29th, 2010 at 07:28 AM



Be a little careful with the chrome wheels

I use to have these on a 75L bug and the offset is wrong
The sit too wide

You can see them in the very first pic on page 1
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=36756&page=1 

For offset look here
http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp 

Ideally for a 6" rim you want an ET between 36 and 50

The chrome mangets are 20
In fact most 4 stud wheels are

Also the chrome on new mangels is not very good - and the quickly rust in the joins.

A 2" drop will rub with a 51/2" - 6" rim with an ET of 20




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posted on April 29th, 2010 at 08:56 AM



Thanks Bizzare. I was concerned about the offset and tyre size. Hence I asked the seller those questions, so I could do some measuring. If they have the wrong offset anyway, I won't bother with them. It's not a priority spend at the moment anyway.

What rims, other than the stock ones, do have the correct offset for my Olive? I prefer the mangels because I like the classic widened stockies look. I'd even settle for stock front rims and widened ones on the rear, as long as it didn't cause wierd handling problems.

By the way, since I needed a new battery, I bought a DIN53L. It's the low-line type used in many euro cars. It fitted perfectly in the carrier and gives a bit more clearance between the seat springs and battery top. Plus it has a built-in cover for the positive terminal to help prevent shorting. I've still put the plastic cover back over it though.




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1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder
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posted on April 29th, 2010 at 10:06 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by bnicho
What rims, other than the stock ones, do have the correct offset for my Olive?


This is where it gets difficult

Anything wider than 5 1/2" you really need to go to a thin spring strut. At that point you mas as well go adjustable
These are 3 bolyt - yours should be 2 bolt, but you get the drift

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d170/blue74l/Marty/3boltstrut.jpg

A 6" 36ET - 50ET is the go

A Porsche Cookie Cutter and a V Force Spider is 15" x 6" x 36ET
One is 5 bolt the V Force is 4 bolt
A Porsche Boxster is 16" x 6" x 50ET

Have a look in my Members ride post and you will see both the Spider and Boxster on my L bug

Take your time and work out what you want

Barry




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posted on April 29th, 2010 at 09:42 PM



Thanks, I had a look at your thread. Martini Olive must have been a popular colour.

Besides the mangels, I like the Spider rims on it best I think. I'm not so keen on any of the Porsche rims.

Can you fit two bolt struts into a three bolt car and vise versa? Maybe by changing the strut tops?

I did some more fiddling today. Fixed a bad earth in the left tail light which was causing the left indicators to stop when I put my foot on the brake. The spare wheel only had 20psi in it. With 42psi in it and the plumbing reconnected the screen washers are working. :)

I discovered my interior light is broken, as is the plastic clip that holds the passenger side sunvisor to the roof, near the interior mirror. So those two items go on the shopping list. I will adjust the rear brakes and handbrake on the weekend and then it's off for an RWC on Monday. I expect it will fail on the floor pan weld and whatever is causing the shimmy.




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posted on May 1st, 2010 at 01:58 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Paulc1964au
Jeff,

I assume the vent levers are the same for my 69? Awesome explanation until reading your post i still couldn't figure it out


Sorry for the late reply Paul, I went for a job interview in Newcastle on Wednesday morning, and unexpectedly started straight away. Just got home for part of the weekend, then back to Newcastle for the Pit Stop cruise and then work for the week.
Yes, it is the same for the 69.




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posted on May 1st, 2010 at 10:32 PM



While working on Olive again today I noticed something interesting. Three bolt struts on an August 74 compliance car??

Myabe olive sat around for a year or so before the complaince plate was fitted, just before going to a dealer?

Chassis is: 134246723X
Engine is: AS11261X

(Last digit replaced by X to avoid the unscrupulous rebithring her details!)

I adjusted up the rear drums, but the handbrake is still useless despite adjusting the cables to the max. I guess I have broken or streched cables.

Cheers,




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1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
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2009 Nissan Pathfinder
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posted on May 2nd, 2010 at 08:18 AM



I have been brourght up with superbugs cause before i was born dad had a few 1300 and 1500 bugs but then he got rid of them when he knew i was comming thinking the car would'nt be suitable for babys with the seat harneses and all. but then when i was 10 we got a 1972 super bug followed that was a 1973 L super bug then followed that was a 74 superbug and now i have got my own 72 superbug. I love all bugs but supers seem very modern to me with the strut suspension and IRS i think there the safest beetles you can get.

Good luck with your new car binicho = ]

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posted on May 2nd, 2010 at 11:47 AM



Thanks Dylan.

My Dad had a 64 Beetle he bought new, which he managed to roll over somehow. He never did tell me the details, but I suspect being a single soldier in the sixties, alcohol may have been involved. His insurance repaired the car, but he sold it a few years later, well before I was born.

I've always had a soft spot for Beetles. I wanted one for my first car, and that lead to me gaining a part-time job at a local VW specialist when I was 15. I ended up getting a Mini as my first car instead.

In the late 80's Superbugs were not rated highly. The cool models to have were a 1500 or a 76 and it was a 76 I wanted back then.

Now I've got a family of my own, the larger boot and more modern feel makes sense. Especially as I intend to use the car daily.

So far I'm having fun with this car. It's so simple to work on.




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1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
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2009 Nissan Pathfinder
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posted on May 2nd, 2010 at 12:58 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by bnicho
My Dad had a 64 Beetle he bought new, which he managed to roll over somehow. He never did tell me the details, but I suspect being a single soldier in the sixties, alcohol may have been involved. .


I would be blaming swing axles and torsion front end :lol:

Be happy you bought a Super :tu:




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posted on May 3rd, 2010 at 12:34 PM



Olive is now in the hands of Gary at Wolfsburg in Geelong.

I nearly flipped when I walked in his shed. Not only does he have one of the last Mexican beetles, he also has an early Czech Tatra and my highlight, a Schwimmwagen!!!

The Schwimmwagen was just a shell and looked more like a rusty colander than a car/boat. But anything is restorable given enough time and money. :)




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posted on May 3rd, 2010 at 12:50 PM



might wanna fix that typo quick lol

its possible 3bolt is original but highly unlikely asthe swap happened abit earlier in the year

it maybe a case like mine, where i swapped it over myself
2 bolt supers were only made for 1.5 years and by early 74 beetle sales were really dropping off so 2bolt parts are really hard to come by where as 3 bolt were made or 3.5 years and were sold in higher numbers too

the 3 bolt has a couple of other adavantages aside from being easy to find, it can go lower, can run a bumpsteer kit and gets the track same to the rear, 2 bolt have a much wider front track
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posted on May 3rd, 2010 at 12:57 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Joel
might wanna fix that typo quick lol



Oops, typo fixed! Freud would have had fun with that one. :lol:

It looked like it was three bolt struts originally, as there were no extra unused holes in the shell. But I'm glad it's three bolt, since it makes mods easier.

Hmm, earlier dash and earlier struts? I hope I haven't bought a rebirthed car, or one that's had a cut and shut! :no:




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posted on May 3rd, 2010 at 01:04 PM



theres no extra bolt holes or anything, its a direct swap
everything else about it is 74 though aside from the dash

its definately the original engine
mines a september 74 and is pretty close chassis and engine number
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