| [ Total Views: 25520 | Total Replies: 208 | Thread Id: 85506 ] |
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 Sides
A.k.a.: Dave Sidery
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| posted on August 28th, 2010 at 01:58 PM |
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And so it begins.... some "before" shots.
Engine bay: an admittedly filthy, yet pretty darn hypo 1915. The main change here is that the 44 IDF's will be replaced with twin 48
IDF throttle bodies with billet rails, and the generator will be replaced with an alternator. Oh and the whole bay will get a bl00dy good clean too of
course... racing is a lot of fun, but man things get filthy. 
In the cabin: the Innovate AF meter and logger comes out... I'll be integrating everything to the ECU and using it's logging
instead.
And in the rear seat area: the Innovate AUX box (left) comes out, as does the Mallory Hyfire and coil... all to be replaced with a
heap of Haltech gear. The thick layer of dust makes me think a bit of cleaning required in here too...
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Sides
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| posted on August 28th, 2010 at 02:08 PM |
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And the Innovate gear that's come out... off to a new home in a drag Beetle. Pretty nifty setup really if you haven't come across
'em before... lets you log AF (Lambda), RPM, Acceleration (g's) and up to 5 other things depending on what sensors you hook up... throttle position
and road speed for example.
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cnfabo
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| posted on August 28th, 2010 at 02:16 PM |
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geez dave, you have a lot of stuff in there.....heavy weight beetle  .......
keep up the great work.....
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Sides
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| posted on August 28th, 2010 at 03:54 PM |
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Heh, yeah - she's not exactly a lightweight... and neither is the driver... which is probably why I'm enjoying the extra power so much !!!
Shiny new alternator kit to go in: just a POS Chinese jobby, but still light years ahead of the 'ol genny.
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sander288
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| posted on August 28th, 2010 at 05:51 PM |
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I hope you love IT dave  ... theres to many things in your
interior for me!! I have enough trouble getting the horn to work properly !! 
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STIDUB
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| posted on August 28th, 2010 at 06:34 PM |
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maybe some door seals could be put in since there will be power to overcome the weight of them
...especially without the dust/dirt, clean it & u might loose about 2kg! hehe
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Sides
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| posted on August 29th, 2010 at 08:15 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by sander288
I hope you love IT dave ... theres to many things in your
interior for me!! I have enough trouble getting the horn to work properly !!
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Heh heh... yup - being an IT geek I've just gotta have a few toys in there, tho yeah - Jezzi's horn doesn't work properly either !!!
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colonel mustard
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| posted on August 29th, 2010 at 10:37 AM |
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Horn? Thats dead weight!
Give me a Buzz on msn if you want a hand with it some time. I hold the torch and clean things. - speaking of which, ask stidub how clean his cave and garage are now... Friday arvo was clean up time..
ps, thanks for the shocks its over an inch higher in the rear now 
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Sides
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| posted on August 29th, 2010 at 02:24 PM |
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Yeah, cool - no worries Mustard. I warned STIDUB when he took 'em that they'd lift the rear, but surprised it's as much as an inch... man your bars
must REALLY have sagged !!!
Ripped most of the uneeded stuff off the engine: Carb's, dizzy and genny are gone for good, and breather box gone temporarily...
possibly relocate it pending how the wiring etc. all fits in.
Also found a minor little oil leak... seems one of the fittings at the breather box had worked loose, and instead any captured oil draining back to
the engine it would drip into the airflow going to the fan... made the dust stick like you wouldn't believe.
Realized something I hadn't planned out tho... need some sort of block off for the dizzy hole !!! 
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SuperOwen
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| posted on August 29th, 2010 at 04:22 PM |
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http://www.boostengineering.net/product_p/vwplug.htm
Should be easy enough to make, I was lazy and just got that one though.
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hellbugged
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| posted on August 29th, 2010 at 05:25 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Sides
Realized something I hadn't planned out tho... need some sort of block off for the dizzy hole !!!
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use a plug with oring rather than a plate Dave
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Sides
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| posted on August 29th, 2010 at 07:56 PM |
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Yeah... plug with an o-ring was my initial thinking too. That boostengineering one looks all right, but I'd rather not have to keep the dizzy
clamp.... we'll see I guess.
Reasonable progress today:Alternator in and dummy fit of throttle bodies. Thought clearance might have been a prob, but there's a
lot more room around them than the IDF's, which kinda surprised me.
Also knocked up a bracket for the hall effect sensor that bolts onto the alt stand... need to put some windows in it yet so the engine number is still
visible.... and to reduce weight of course !!!
Next step will be the fuel system changes... hopefully get the injectors and fuel rails sorted this week.
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on September 2nd, 2010 at 10:14 AM |
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Sides,
This looks sensational. Cheers for all the pics... Now that you are converting to FI, would you reconmend it for a newb like me who hasn't had any
hypo motor before, or go for the traditional carbs... Budget is non-existant as always but if i am goin to spend dow on carbs etc could i run good FI
for similar money??? Is it much more powerful or just more useable??? I am aiming for 1916cc big ports and large cam at this stage. Need to be able to
drive on the street though...
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STIDUB
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| posted on September 2nd, 2010 at 11:35 AM |
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gee, your running out of room for stuff in there, maybe its time to change shells & make the ghia a racer, my garage has room in it hehe 
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Sides
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| posted on September 2nd, 2010 at 06:34 PM |
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No NO NOOO STIDUB... the Ghia WILL NOT become a race car !!!
No visible progress made the last few days... damn work getting in the way... but I've solved a lot of questions. The biggy is the design for getting
a good Home signal is now sorted, and amusingly it also addresses "how to plug the dizzy hole" at the same time.
It's stoopid how happy I am with being able to get a reliable Home signal, as it means that both Sequential Injection and Direct Fire Ignition are
back on the cards. One of the guys at work is on the case fabbing things up based on my drawings... will post details once he confirms it's
build-able. Maybe even pics if he really can do it as quickly as he thinks.
Aussie - sorry to disappoint mate, but nope - I wouldn't recommend EFI for a newby. Especially if you've got a non existent budget... just my ECU
alone cost about the same as a good carb setup. That's not to say there aren't more affordable ways to do EFI than what I've done... there
definitely are, such as what vw54 has done... but I suspect will still come out to more $$$ than a carb system.
My aim has always been drivability rather than outright power... based on last dyno session it will probably give me more power at the top end also,
but won't really know for sure till I get it all in and running...
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Sides
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| posted on September 2nd, 2010 at 06:39 PM |
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Oh... one thing i definitely WOULD recommend is to build your car with a return style fuel system... just in case you want to go EFI
one day !!!
I'm glad that I did, as my fuel system change for EFI is really just a swirl pot and extra pump and filter up front, then swap the carby regulator at
the back for an EFI one.
If I'd settled for an in-tank swirl pot it would've been even simpler again.
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johny rotten
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| posted on September 2nd, 2010 at 06:51 PM |
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any pics of your trigger and home sensors yet ?
How many magnets are u using in that pulley ?
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Sides
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| posted on September 4th, 2010 at 08:48 AM |
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Some more parts arrived... it's gonna be a fun weekend methinks !!!
Injectors: Bosch 314cc jobs... aka 'Ford Motorsport Injectors'. Depending how you calculated it, they're good for around 50-60hp
per cylinder, which will leave a nice amount of headroom on the tuning, as realistically I think 180hp at the flywheel is the most I'll see. Only
real drawback on these guys is the little Ford logo's in the molding... I feel so dirty for having purchased a Ford product !!!
Fuel Rail bits: A nice, shiny 400mm length of extrusion, plus the clips etc. to hold the injectors in. Have been advised against
welding the rails, so the fabbing up will be a case of cutting to length, milling in the injector pockets and then tapping the ends to take AN-8 port
fittings.
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Sides
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| posted on September 4th, 2010 at 08:53 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by johny rotten
any pics of your trigger and home sensors yet ?
How many magnets are u using in that pulley ?
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Nope - no pics as yet.
I have two options depending on how the Home setup works out:
- either 2 magnets set into the pulley, 1 North and 1 South so can tell TDC from BDC, which unfortunately puts me back to Wasted Spark and
Semi-Sequential Injection
- a 12 tooth chopper wheel and use the Home signal to determine position in the cycle (my preferred)
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| posted on September 4th, 2010 at 01:02 PM |
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Holy smoke Dave, I never realised how much $hit you have in your car. 9 guages plus a speedo, terratrip and the like. You really do like your gagets
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STIDUB
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| posted on September 4th, 2010 at 05:26 PM |
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sooo, my engine & box are in, whats your excuse not to be done yet?? 
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1303Steve
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| posted on September 4th, 2010 at 05:57 PM |
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Hi Dave
Looking good. Have you looked into using a 2.6 Magna EFI dizzy, they have 2 pick up coils, one for TDC and the other for cylinder reference. They are
easily adapted to fit to VW.
Steve
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johny rotten
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| posted on September 4th, 2010 at 06:42 PM |
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he is using a crank angle sensor 
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Sides
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| posted on September 6th, 2010 at 07:48 AM |
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Cheers for comments guys !!!
Steve - yeah I'd thought about the Magna dizzy option, but really wanted to try and remove as much variability from the timing as possible... really
I want the crank angle to be the primary trigger, tho the Home will likely be coming from off the dizzy drive.
Johny - details for main trigger below. Home trigger hopefully get things back from my mate at work today... hopefully...
Crank angle sensor and mounting: This is to prove the concept, then later will be doing up something a bit more 'bling'
methinks.
Chopper wheel: My preferred option until yesterday was mounting this up to the back of the pulley... but now an electronics mate of
mine reckons that the sensor I have would be just as happy detecting a bolt going past it. So I may instead just mount up 4 countersunk steel bolts
into the pulley, depending on how testing of the sensor goes of course. And hey... nothing like having a fallback position !!!
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
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Sides
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| posted on September 6th, 2010 at 07:56 AM |
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Otherwise, progress this weekend a bit slow... time spent messing around with the milling machine, Riverfire etc. all obviously time NOT sent on poor
little Jezzi...
Throttle linkage sorted: Not much to look at, but because I run a DTM shroud the Berg style linkage didn't just bolt up... fan is
rotated slightly clockwise, and the face of the shroud isn't flat, tall manifolds etc. etc. Solution was a bit of ally C channel as a spacer... so a
couple of passes at measure, test fit etc. later it seems to work pretty nicely, with only some minor geometry tweaks needed still.
Fuel system mods started: Working this out took a stupid amount of time, but I can actually fit the swirl pot, extra pump and filter
all in the spare wheel well around the dry sump system. Woohoo - a race car that can still carry a space saver and toolkit !!!
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Jak Rizzo
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| posted on September 6th, 2010 at 09:06 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Sides
Woohoo - a race car that can still carry a space saver and toolkit !!!
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Doesn't everyone have one of those types of racecars LOL
Dave, do u have any idea how much power/driveability u will have with the injection setup? in relation to the cost?
I don't want to know how much it costs, thats your buisness, just curious as to how much more grunt say Ben & Heath have with injection over
carbs? Where do u think it will make more power, or will it be everywhere?
It will be really interesting to see how much more grunt u can get.
I keep dropping the word "injection" into conversation with CT just randomly, even on the rare occasion when we are not talking vw's.
regards
Jak
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| posted on September 6th, 2010 at 11:39 AM |
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Hi
The biggest advantage if you gain nothing else is altitude correction, but there will be nicer throttle response and more HP as there wont be a
narrowing of the air path through venturis etc.
They way doing your crank trigger is really nicely done.
Steve
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johny rotten
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| posted on September 7th, 2010 at 07:57 AM |
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Thanks for posting pics for us to see
I enjoy looking at different set ups
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danny m
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| posted on September 8th, 2010 at 09:42 AM |
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David if you mount the sensor that way it will break off quite quickly and then you will also have problems with it getting a decent signal as it gets
a signal from the majority of the tip diameter and the chopper disc needs to be around 5x5mm thick
If you need to see come and look at mine
As I said been there done that with a Haltec and I'm still waiting for the t-shirt amd I'm guessing my chances of the t-shirt turning up are as good
as getting the thing to behave it's self
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Sides
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| posted on September 8th, 2010 at 01:16 PM |
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Jak - based on previous dyno sessions and the change that switching from 36 to 38mm vents gave... and that the power curve still looks restricted in
the top end and hits max power too early... well I'd say that a 10hp gain from where I am now at the top end is probably achievable. It's more the
mid range where I hope to see the biggest improvement, specifically giving better control over the over rich section I'm getting and freeing up some
grunt there. Of course that's all just guessing until it's all together and tuned.... so I might leave the bang for buck assessment till then too
!!!
Don't think I'll see the sort of power that Ben/Grant are getting from their combo... but dunno, possibly close to Heath all going well.
Danny - yup, the sensor mounting is just temporary to prove the concept and get gaps etc. right. Once that's sorted will be fabbing up a more solid
setup where the sensor mounts through the bracket from behind... so no possibility for the sensor to move independently of the bracket. Don't have
the specs on the chopper wheel handy, but it's 145mm diameter and from memory something like 6.5mm thick with 6mm tooth forms.... actually, easiest
thing - it's a Motec 12 tooth 145mm wheel... you probably have the specs around on them !!! Where the sensor is mounted gives the full tooth passing
over it... should work I think, but if it doesn't no biggy - I'll just change it.
Love to see more details on your setup - any chance of posting some pics ??? Also saw you listed on the Speed on Tweed entry list... 1999cc and
yellow... is that the new car, or Dunnie's car ???
Good suggestion tho - just might have to drop round and check out your setup again...
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI - http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
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