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 General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on June 1st, 2011 at 05:05 PM |
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I managed to power up the digital cluster today. Partially anyway. Both standby and running. The backlighting still has me stumped. Both inputs to the
bulbs according to the manual are positives from different circuits and then there's a third mystery wire which may control things. It's a little
unclear though. Unlike standard gauges these have to be lit whenever the ignition is on, and I think the brightness changes when the headlights are
turned on.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Joel
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| posted on June 1st, 2011 at 06:42 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by General_Failure
I think the brightness changes when the headlights are turned on.
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You got it.
The LCD display dims when you turn the parkers on so it's not as glarey at night
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on June 1st, 2011 at 07:01 PM |
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Trouble is I don't really remember it too well any more in its original application. The backlight wiring is still a bit mysterious though. I'll
have to empirically test the states of the backlight wires and the mysterious third wire.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
Threads: 107
Registered: June 15th, 2004
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Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on June 28th, 2011 at 06:51 AM |
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The magnets arrived a week or two ago. The proximity sensor finally arrived yesterday so I can get back to it. Thought I'd say it hasn't been
abandoned. Just slow postage.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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vlad01
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| posted on July 7th, 2011 at 07:55 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by General_Failure
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
 Hence it's name.
There are far more elegant ways to do it, in the front hub sensing the wheel bolts for example would be a neat way.
I just went for the easy solution and I also wanted it on the rear driving wheels so it didn't spack out on dynos when the front wheels aren't
turning.
I did actually try the magnets and reed switch deal, worked briefly then failed miserably.
another subi conversion guy I know tried it too but using the subaru reed switch, same deal worked for a bit then stopped.
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Ahahaha. I think I know why that failed after a bit. Possibly magnetic flux in the CV, but I think the most likely thing is that all those big
spinning magnets magnetised the angle iron bracket the reed switch is mounted on.
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hahaha you used a read switch you dufus
I am surprised it even worked above 30km/h. That would be a good one to post to "thereifixedit.com" . You must admit, its a good one to use an
alarm read switch and some glued on magnets. 
Plenty of hall effect sensors out there in all different shapes and sizes.
Check these for example.
http://www.etbinstruments.com/Sensors_ancillaries.htm
ETB instruments are great to deal with, good quality stuff.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Joel
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| posted on July 7th, 2011 at 08:02 PM |
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What you think stock was?
omg a reed switch....
Worked fine upto about 100km/h.
Others have been using the same setup for years, for $9 i was happy to try it.
Proximity sensor has been working fine for nearly 17,000kms now
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vlad01
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| posted on July 8th, 2011 at 08:47 PM |
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stock? um a speedo cable lol
yep proxi sensors work on hall effect most of the time some use induction coil i think? they are a good choice.
you can also use photo interrupter sensors but need to a type that is resistant to dirt and water.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Joel
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| posted on July 8th, 2011 at 09:00 PM |
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Stock Subaru.
Using an inductive prox setup now.
I've only had it to 180km/h so far but in theory its good for 300mph
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vlad01
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| posted on July 9th, 2011 at 01:18 PM |
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180? how is the aero of a bug at that speed?
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Joel
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| posted on July 9th, 2011 at 02:42 PM |
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I would not wanna do those kinda speeds in a stock car with it's nose in the air, you would take flight but a lowered Lbug with big shoes is very
firmly planted at those speeds feels like it's sitting still.
Even the vids on youtube of Wallys turbo type4 Lbug doing 220km/h on the autobahn looks like driving Miss Daisy.
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vlad01
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| posted on July 9th, 2011 at 07:26 PM |
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hmmm? thats rather interesting. Well there you go, a bug is more aerodynamic than people give it credit for.
I also know the type 3 is very stable at speed. I have managed to push a late squareback down a massive 800m long 20o decline and got it to 150Km/h
was a pretty stable, wobbled a little on those summer days with strong cross winds.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Joel
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| posted on July 10th, 2011 at 12:22 PM |
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VW's are alot more stable at speed than people give them credit for.
It's only when they have rooted shocks, flogged out bushings and tyre pressures all over the place that they get hairy.
You only have to look at how well they do on the track to see how well they can handle with some work.
Even a kombi can hang on well, watching Steve Muller I think it was flog around the Raleigh track in the splitty camper was pretty impressive a few
years back.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
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Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
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Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on October 23rd, 2011 at 09:41 AM |
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I've put this project on the back burner for a while. I have everything I need but it's in my best interest to get it roadworthy by end of year-ish.
To make the cluster fit I'd have to fab a new heater lever setup because the OE one interferes. besides that the cluster is the right shape and size,
with a small gap to have the vent flap lever going through still. Problem is I want to drill some gauge holes between the ashtray and stereo. Why is
that a problem? Well because the cluster I have would obsolete all those gauges. I suppose in the mean time I could fab a multi gauge bracket instead
of all the warts all over the dash it has now. Hole saw, the 2.?mm steel I've got and a bit of grinding and welding. All good hahaha.
Now I think of it the LED bulbs I have on the way are the same type the Magna cluster uses. Hmmm. Honestly I don't want to give the inspector any
extra ammo. I know that I can do it legally and all, but blue slip with a 36 year old bay which while in good physical condition looks like it was in
a battlezone, and with drivetrain work that is on a razors edge of needing engineering, best to play it safe until then.
If I can figure out how the hell the backlighting circuit in the cluster works I'll be well ahead. I think I said it before but what is in the wiring
diagram just plain doesn't make sense for the digital cluster. The analog cluster is fine though. They both seem to use an entirely different method
of controlling the light.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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