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 volumex
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| posted on July 10th, 2012 at 09:00 PM |
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I'll make a pdf copy of my manual and post it up soon.
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subimanx
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| posted on July 11th, 2012 at 07:36 AM |
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That would be great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on July 11th, 2012 at 07:57 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Uber Kafer
Does anyone know what oil can be used in the governor. It states that SAE 10 oil is required, so is there a product thats readily available that
suits that requirement.?
thanks.
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Here's some help:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil
"The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity
characteristics. SAE viscosity gradings include the following, from low to high viscosity: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The numbers 0, 5,
10, 15 and 25 are suffixed with the letter W, designating their "winter" (not "weight") or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature. The number
20 comes with or without a W, depending on whether it is being used to denote a cold or hot viscosity grade. The document SAE J300 defines the
viscometrics related to these grades."
I thought i saw it in my tribology notes, but that was converting ISO# oils to SAE weights based on predicted operating temperatures. Google pulled
through though. So from that paragraph, a 10W oil (single grade) should suffice.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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JEP1957
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| posted on July 11th, 2012 at 08:26 AM |
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Have checked RPM and it is at 3000 which is specified, voltage does not drop under load and the trim pot does not work so i need a manual to check the
wiring diagram and get the relevant ohms resistance for a new trim pot. Thanks for the info. Volumex posted a picture of the manual that he has on
20th June 2011 but haven't been able to contact him.
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JEP1957
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| posted on July 11th, 2012 at 08:44 AM |
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Would be great to get the manual.
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Uber Kafer
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| posted on July 11th, 2012 at 07:24 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by subimanx
Slow the engine RPM. ..
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to reduce an overvoltage problem on an alternator? dont think so. The governor needs to maintain nominal output volts at 50Hz. Only reduce the speed
if its an over-frequency problem.
But yes, it would be great to get a copy of the manual in to the public domain. And lets not turn this into a debate about copyright ......
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Uber Kafer
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| posted on July 11th, 2012 at 07:54 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Uber Kafer
Does anyone know what oil can be used in the governor. It states that SAE 10 oil is required, so is there a product thats readily available that
suits that requirement.?
thanks.
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Here's some help:........, a 10W oil (single grade) should suffice.
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thanks, but I was onto that already.
So does anyone know of a product readily available thats SAE10 / 10W? I suspect that pneumatic tool lubricant might fit the bill but I cant confirm
the oil weight.
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JEP1957
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| posted on July 13th, 2012 at 08:45 PM |
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Fuchs make a 10w oil it is Titan Hytrans 10w
A special purpose fluid designed for a range of mobile equipment.
http://www.fuchs.com.au
ph fuchs techniical 1800333674
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Uber Kafer
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| posted on July 13th, 2012 at 10:30 PM |
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thats great news, a big help. thanks. I will see if I can get me some.
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 barls
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| posted on July 13th, 2012 at 10:35 PM |
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| Quote: | But yes, it would be
great to get a copy of the manual in to the public domain. And lets not turn this into a debate about copyright ......
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might actually be more an issue of security classification rather than copyright.
depends on what level its been classified as. i know the equipment i use to work on was all secret and above and that was radios, comms gear and
weapon systems.
hopefully someone doesnt get in trouble for posting it if it happens.
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subimanx
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| posted on July 14th, 2012 at 10:57 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Uber Kafer
| Quote: | Originally
posted by subimanx
Slow the engine RPM. ..
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to reduce an overvoltage problem on an alternator? dont think so. The governor needs to maintain nominal output volts at 50Hz. Only reduce the speed
if its an over-frequency problem.
But yes, it would be great to get a copy of the manual in to the public domain. And lets not turn this into a debate about copyright ......
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We are trying to determin if it is actually an overvoltage problem and there is definetly nothing wrong with checking the speed at load is actually
what its supposed to be,its the first thing in the diagnostic you would check. And I'm sure you actually meant to type "overvoltage from the
altenator" Barls...there is no security problems for release of the manuals etc....if anyone is afraid to copy etc send them to me and I'll do
it.
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Uber Kafer
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| posted on July 14th, 2012 at 12:35 PM |
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Ok, sort of lost me there with your logic, but as long as we agree that the governor's job is to maintain the speed at 3000 rpm (=50Hz on the
frequency meter) and the regulator's job is to maintain the volts regardless of load current, provided its within the nominated load rating, and at a
reasonable power factor.
So if the governor is doing its job maintaining the right speed, and apparently it is, and the volts are too high, I agree that regulation is the area
to concentrate on. Anyway, after 20 years commissioning, testing maintaining, operating, (and sometimes breaking), alternators with a lot more zeros
in the kVA rating, thats my 2 bobs worth.
JEP1957, As for the regulator control pot, assuming its the one labelled 'RAISE VOLTS' is there a part number marked on the body of the pot or any
other markings? Equipment built to mil spec was always fairly robustly identified so it should have something still legible. I know its the most
likely point of failure but you should be able to test it. But regardless, we still need the schematic in the public domain. Make fault finding a
lot easier.
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subimanx
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| posted on July 14th, 2012 at 02:39 PM |
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Sorry i lost you with "my logic"  ...the first place to start is
with engine speed,which we agree is 3000rpm.He has checked that and it is 3000rpm. If you increase the engine speed the Hz will increase,as will the
Volts generated.If you LOWER the engine speed the opposite will occur...still with me? At idle speed the volts/Hz will be lower (mine is around 90
Volts at idle) as the speed is increased the volts etc also increase (u still with me?) My suggestion,which is the first thing you do for diagnostics
is to ensure engine speed is correct. If the pot doesnt control the final trim,then it is most likely at fault.
I'll see if i can get part numbers.
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
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| posted on July 14th, 2012 at 02:46 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by subimanx
I'll see if i can get part numbers.
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RYCO A256 for the air filter...
tssnq.com.au
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Uber Kafer
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| posted on July 14th, 2012 at 04:59 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by subimanx
If you increase the engine speed the Hz will increase,as will the Volts generated.
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as for engine speed = alternator speed = Hz, then thats a no brainer for some of us.
But as for increased engine speed = increased volts, well thats a pretty basic/poor voltage regulator, and would have been a bit unstable on varying
load. A decent regulator shouldnt really be affected by a couple of % rpm variation around 50Hz. I assumed it to regulate better that that, hence my
earlier comment.
Anyway, thats what you have found on yours and I still havent run mine yet. Wait & see.
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Uber Kafer
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| posted on July 14th, 2012 at 05:00 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by MickH
RYCO A256 for the air filter...
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great, thanks for that.
cheers.
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
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| posted on July 14th, 2012 at 05:17 PM |
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So you're suggesting that at idle mine should be 240 volts???? LOL
Wrong....
tssnq.com.au
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tar76
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| posted on July 14th, 2012 at 05:27 PM |
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One thing i like to say to all vets "Thank you" (volumex)
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Sorry for hijacking the thread but whenever i meet a vet i like to shake their hand and say "thanks mate"!
"Obey your Dreams"!
62 Std beetle.
65 11 wnd Split "The Cross".
6? coming very soon!!!!
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JEP1957
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| posted on July 28th, 2012 at 09:14 PM |
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Hi All
In my endeavours to find what is wrong with my generator i have come across a guy who has 15 of these generators for sale. He tells me 2 work fine,
one overcharges like mine and the rest don't charge at all, so he is also looking for a cure for the overcharging problem. If anyone is interested in
these generators I can email his contact number.
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Uber Kafer
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| posted on July 29th, 2012 at 10:47 AM |
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I would be interested but I'm on the wrong side of the island, freight would be big $. I am also interested in getting a schematic of the generator
as well. We cant trouble shoot effectively without one.
On another note, I got mine running yesterday for the first time. Runs beautiful, very quiet.
Good thing I persevered with the governor oil. I ended up buying a Nulon product, Hydraulic Fluid ISO 32. SAE10 equals ISO 32 on some charts, but I
am not certain that the properties of Hydraulic fluid are ideal for the Governor. Open to suggestions from lubricant gurus. Anyway, the old oil that
came out was rubbish.
Got one of the air cleaners, RYCO A256, which turns out to be stock size for an early Mini. Changed the oil, cleaned the screen filter. Set the
valves. Cleaned out the fuel tank, got half a tonne of sludge n crap. that crap was right through the rest of the fuel system, but the carby still
good. So its had quite a birthday.
Rolled the set out of the shed for a good solid run but then flooded it on restart... damn. By then it was beer-oclock so I left it.
Big run today hopefully.
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
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| posted on July 30th, 2012 at 09:38 AM |
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Is yours a crank start or electric start??? "Someone" rebuilt mine and it appears they have used standard pistons...difficult to turn over normally
as the compression is too hight,impossible to crank start by hand.....bumma for no electric start
tssnq.com.au
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Uber Kafer
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| posted on July 30th, 2012 at 10:04 AM |
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mine is hand crank, and boy am I feeling it in my arms and shoulders today. Theres defintely a technique to doing it, and it would be an incentive
to keep them in good tune.
i've been wondering about some sort of electric starter. got a couple of ideas but would be interested to see if anyone else has done something
already.
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
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| posted on July 30th, 2012 at 11:33 AM |
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yeh ive got a few ideas for electric start. It has a large diamond drill on it at the moment but is rather large and not practicle,but makes it
easy......
tssnq.com.au
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Uber Kafer
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| posted on July 30th, 2012 at 11:48 AM |
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What, so you mean the gen-set is not 'hand-portable' anymore ???
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
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| posted on July 30th, 2012 at 01:30 PM |
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Yeh mate still fits in my pocket ,just sticks out a bit
tssnq.com.au
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
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| posted on July 30th, 2012 at 01:39 PM |
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SO....how many volts you got at idle????? Hopefully not 240....
I've got a plaque on mine from the company that rebuilt it (flood damage) and it's local so i might go there next week to see what info they
have..... HOPEFULLY they have some type of
schematic for it!!! Will let you know!!!
tssnq.com.au
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JEP1957
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| posted on August 1st, 2012 at 08:07 AM |
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Uber Kafer - Its a shame you are so far over there in the West and I agree the freight would be costly to get the generator over there. As for the
Hydraulic oil it does not have the same additives as gear type oil, with occasional use it should not be an issue. Another good choice of oil would be
automatic transmission fluid as it is a light weight oil with very good wear protection.
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JEP1957
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| posted on August 1st, 2012 at 08:25 AM |
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As for the engine being hard to turn over, if it has not been started for some time, remove the tappit covers, spark plugs put a couple of squirts of
engine oil in each plug hole to lubricate the cylinders, turn the engine over slowly and watch to see if all the valves are freely moving as they may
be seized from moisture, if they do not appear free, lubricate the stems, tap gently with a soft hammer while rocking engine crankshaft backwards and
forwards. As my engine was sitting for quite sometime, this is what i did to loosen the engine up. If you lift the unit up, either sit it in a
trailer or something half a metre off the ground it will give you greater leaverage to start the engine.
As for an electric start, if you remove the fan belt and use the pully connected to a starter motor with the belt and a tensioner it will spin the
engine over fast enough to start it, you need a far size starter motor without a nose cone, some English vehicles had these starter motors. Buy a V
belt pulley mount it to the starter motor shaft, mount the starter motor to the frame, tension the belt by using a bar to lever the starter motor
across and it should turn the engine over, remembering not to run it long without the fan running.
I plan toput an extra pulley out where the crank handle fits so i can start and run mine with fan still operating but don't forget you must be able
to disconnect the belt from the starter motor as soon as the engine starts as the starter motors are not designed to continuously run. 
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
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| posted on August 1st, 2012 at 01:21 PM |
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i was looking at mounting the starter to the front of the unit and making an adapter to utilise the crank start bolt,that way when the starter spins
it throws towards the crank bolt and retracts when not in use. Crank bolts are cheap.....
tssnq.com.au
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volumex
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| posted on February 4th, 2013 at 11:16 AM |
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OK - I am a bit slow.
Linky to pdf of the manual: Army VW
Generator Manual
Unfortunately no wiring diagrams.
Also, apologies if I led anyone to think I was a vet - I am not and I also am very grateful for the sacrifice made by all vets.
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