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 tweety
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| posted on August 19th, 2011 at 06:39 PM |
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A top adviser for me is a fellow from Western Australia. "Toonga" told me today that the valve breather hoses hooked up that way wasnt right.
The hose on the dizzy side sucks clean air in at the original air filter housing. Then the air circulates and comes out the other valve cover hoses
(alternator side) to go back into the engine through a PCV valve.
Prior to that PCV valve air also comes form the air cleaner housing to meet up with these fumes so the engine isnt saturated with gases, effectively
making the mix less toxic.
The easiest way to rectify this with a weber conversion is to gwt two mini filters
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MINI-AIR-CRANKCASE-VENT-BREATHER-FILTER-15MM-CHROM...
place one on the end of the breather hose of the dizzy side. I will then secure the filter to the top of the adapter plate.
The other filter I'll use a "T" peice prior to the PCV valve so air can be sucked in there. Essentially though they are treated as two seperate
systems, one sucking the other blowing.
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tweety
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| posted on August 27th, 2011 at 08:29 PM |
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Ready to strart up in the morning only for a few seconds as I havent got a radiator yet.
Electric fuel pump hooked up (safety cut off switch to come), all electrics at this point seem ok (labelled most things) Exhaust is to get me to the
exhaust shop only. roo deterant
I had made a small pulley arrangement for the throttl BUT too much friction. ended up making this set up witha cable that doesnt snake and a lever
that is simple.
I have swapped ideas on radiator location mant times. finally I am to order a custom one that will fit vertically over the transaxle. even though I
reversed the oil filler it is still too far to the front so will get my engineer to alter it to angle rearward clear of that radiator. Radiator to be
about 850mm wide, 260mm high and up to 40mm 3 core thick. plenty of wind from the sides available. two small thermo fans maybe 3 or 4.
Bit nervous starting it up. I'm no mechanic, in fact I'm a poor back yarder too. When younger I owned a Lotus powered car. It needed head work. I
ended up pulling that head off 4 times before I got it to run. 1/ forgot to install a oil drain tube that sandwiches between head and block 2/ chain
driven twin OH camshafts and chain had a split link...dropped it as I tried to connect it and down to the sump it went 3/ didnt syncronise the cams
and bent all 4 inlet valves on the pistons 4 forgot to cut out the S/steel off the cheaper headgasket that would have coroded the alloy head. was an
expensice excercise. hope I have success in the morning...
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tweety
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| posted on August 30th, 2011 at 09:50 PM |
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she's running!
got to order a custom radiator for above the transaxle and new exhaust.
http://s804.photobucket.com/albums/yy330/eaglefree/?action=view¤t=M...
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 helbus
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| posted on August 31st, 2011 at 08:33 PM |
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Good on ya. Don't you love it when a plan comes together?
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tweety
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| posted on August 31st, 2011 at 09:34 PM |
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yeh Helbus. good feeling.
A custom radiator was $1200 including expansion tank. No thanks.
Ordered a Racing two core Toyota MR2 radiator. not as wide as a Jeep Cherokee but the Jeep is too wide anyway.
Couple of weeks to sort it all out then engineer. A friend of mone is having problems with his conversion in SA. A Oztrike he put a EJ22 in it.
Weight, balance issues. hope he gets it through. And I'm hoping I dont have issues.
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tweety
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| posted on September 6th, 2011 at 08:59 PM |
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radiator is secure now.
hardly visible from rear
scoops found on ebay will direct air from ladder bars
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tweety
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| posted on September 10th, 2011 at 08:40 PM |
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More progress. This is a $10 item at Bunnings. A steel shelf type rack.
Protects the engine side of the radiator. you can also see the expasion bottle mounted
Here is the expansion bottle access to the cap in an opening ormslly reserve for a glove compartment, an option I didnt take when trike was
ordered.
air filter remounted.
The filter will poke out a bit less than this. Too far and it will impede on the roof retracting mechanism. This shot also shows the S/steel plates
for the glove compartments. 5 louvre vents to cover these and add forced air to the radiator.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 11th, 2011 at 07:58 PM |
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the expansion bottle needs to be higher then the radiator 
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 11th, 2011 at 08:03 PM |
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I would take that $10 steel shelf type rack off and mount a one or a couple of electric fans there.
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tweety
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| posted on September 12th, 2011 at 04:31 PM |
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thanks ian.mezz
I tihnk the angle that pic was taken makes the bottle look lower. in fact my I think the top of the radiator is about one third the level of the
bottle. Also I cant get it higher- there is no location higher to mount it. I'll see how it goes and check for air pockets.
I know sucker fans are more efficient but a DCraig 12"fan is on its way to be mounted as a pusher fan. a sucker fan will crowd the engine area and
fingers (?). there is enough room between the fan and the seat back for the 51mm needed for the fan. and extra space for air flow.
It remains an option though as the DCaig fans are reversible.
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helbus
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| posted on September 12th, 2011 at 05:35 PM |
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I wish you were my next door neighbour. I would love to hang out and engineer stuff together. You are doing great.
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tweety
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| posted on September 12th, 2011 at 07:13 PM |
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thanks Helbus. yeh, love to do this stuff but like to tour around more. cant wait to hook up the van after I strengthen the tow bar etc. wait to I
get the exhaust on- its going to be a hell raiser custom job. not like way out truck stacks, bit more subtle than that.
having a look at the pics of the expansion bottle it looks too low as suggested. will look at that tomorrow when I get home.
thanks again guys.
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tweety
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| posted on September 13th, 2011 at 07:22 PM |
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Good news and bad news.
Good news is my Hawse pipes arrived today. held one in position here
hope that will allow a little cool air into the thermo fan area with a duct.
Bad news is that in this pic the spirit level doesnt lie. the top neck of the expansion bottle is at the very top of the radiator core- too low as
has already been pointed out. I've looked at the bottle location. I could squeeze out an inch or so by mounting it higher and maybe rearward but it
isnt much.
Suggestions?
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 Bizarre
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| posted on September 13th, 2011 at 07:33 PM |
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well done!
Interseting stuff
Futue te ipsum!!!
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 13th, 2011 at 08:34 PM |
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you can fit a air bleed plug in the highest part of the radiator to allow for the different height.
You just use a plastic funnel sitting in header tank when filling the system up.
You also need to get some yellow pool noodles to fit nice and neat between the back of the seat and radiator.
across the top and down both sides of the radiator to make sure all the air get forced into the radiator.
and not just pass over the top.
Pool noodles are great because they don't hold water or loose shape.
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tweety
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| posted on September 13th, 2011 at 09:18 PM |
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thanks bizaar
Ian.mezz had to google pool noodles! now I know what you are suggesting and thats been on my mind a gfair bit- the sealing of the air flow. are
these noodles heat proof? can they withstand heat form the radiator?
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vlad01
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| posted on September 14th, 2011 at 09:06 AM |
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Its not uncommon for radiators to be lower than some of the system.
Thats why they invented bleeders and the overflow tank system.
With the overflow system it draws in coolant when the system is cooling down after a run using a sort of siphon principal and negative pressure.
If also comes down to the rad cap as in a overflow system the caps has a one way valve.
On my car the rad and coolant tank is lower than the thermostat housing and hose. Its got a bleeder on top of that housing to allow initial bleeding
but after that is set the system works perfectly.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 14th, 2011 at 03:27 PM |
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yeah , I have them around the front of my radiator for 3 years.
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tweety
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| posted on September 14th, 2011 at 05:32 PM |
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Thanks again. Well did what all guys do when they have an issue- ask the wife......yeh right!. She did make a point in that if the cooling system is
sorted and working right then access to the radiator cap on the expansion tank is not that relevant.
So I found the highest point. And the bottom of the bottle is in line with the top horizontal core of the radiator.
You can see here the flexi radiator hoses are installed. one was 60cm the other 50cm.
One Hawsie pipe has been fixed. I am happy with this option.
You can see here the flow direction of air towards the radiator. Need some ducting. 12 inches circumference. so ducting about 4.5 inches
diameter....have to start looking.
The temp gauge. I have a favourite spot beneath the instrument cluster.
gotta seek our some 50mm internal pipe...maybe pvc and paint it or chrome exhaust tip or similar to house it and protect it from the rain.
So what's left. Will get back my engine protection bar and modified oil filler Friday. Then start up and tune the best I can. Get it to the exhaust
joint. Ride home!. engineer.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on September 15th, 2011 at 12:53 PM |
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does that radiator have rubber mounts,
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tweety
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| posted on September 15th, 2011 at 01:05 PM |
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another pick up ian.mezz. no it doesnt. didnt occur to me at all. will buy some.
thanks.
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vlad01
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| posted on September 15th, 2011 at 03:40 PM |
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the rad could form cracks from harsh vibrations if there is/will be are any.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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tweety
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| posted on September 15th, 2011 at 04:17 PM |
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YEP. THE AIRBAG REAR SUSPENSION IS GOOD BUT A LITTLE HARSH. great for levelling when towing etc.
will seek out some rubber grommets, botls and locknuts to absorb those bumps and vibrations.
your advice is valued guys
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tweety
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| posted on September 15th, 2011 at 07:12 PM |
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One of the things that annoys me with custom work is the negativity one gets from service staff at retail outlets. Some are good, others have no
vision.
Today was no exception. Arrived at a large hardware store where there is prompt service. I didnt want to go through the ordeal of explaining such-
VW chopper trike now with Subie engine and have ducts called Hawse pipes and need flexible pipe to direct air to the thermo fan etc etc. But I did
say it all and got the common reply- "hope, you wont find that here". "Ill just have a browse then".....my common reply knowing full well I'll
find something.
In the plumbing section I located a rubber sleeve and a flexible lower cistern pipe. And the rubber sleeve fitted onto the Hawse pipe perfectly.
This pic shows the advantage of that flexible section
The view from the side is more brighter with the flash. Can paint black
Add to that a straight 90mm section and it reaches the thermo fan
Not a cheap excercise. hawse pipes x2 $76, flexi pipes and rubber sleeves x2 $96, 90mm pipe $10. total $180 for this. but I think it adds tot eh
overall appearance and hopefully a little more air into that area.
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vlad01
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| posted on September 15th, 2011 at 07:44 PM |
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lol cool.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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tweety
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| posted on September 16th, 2011 at 07:23 PM |
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thanks Vlad01.
Busy day today.
Both air intakes finished.
The length will suffice
Thematic fan finished except for a thermo switch to buy soon
intakes- view from front
Finally I took off the radiator and rubber mounted it.
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tweety
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| posted on September 17th, 2011 at 05:51 PM |
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Today I fixed the 5 louvre vents in place. Purchased from ebay. They are meant for boats. I am really imprssed with the appearance of these units
and there usefullness.
Had to cut out the glove box holes (an option form the manufacturer I did not take up) with a jigsaw. then S/steel self tappers.
This shot shows the radiator under and more rearward. a small wind deflector will be added to direct the air inward more.
This shot depicts both new air intakes. Ignor the plumbing of the expansion tank....small flexi hose will be sought.
Tweety is growing teeth!
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tweety
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| posted on September 18th, 2011 at 01:59 PM |
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Rarely have I gone to purchase items and it all comes together so well. Today I had luck on my side.
I had purchased a regular temp gauge form ebay for $16. was reluctant to hook it up on the basis that 1/ I could find an ideal spot to mount it and 2/
I had to find an actual mount for it.
With that in mind I entered Autobarn today seeking out a sender unit for my new Davies Craig thermo fan. These switches dont come in the packet and
are sold seperately.
Armed with a blocking bolt from the radiator to match it up the guy initially told me he'd have to order one. Then he had an alternative. A
temperature sender that has its own housing, that is installed between the radiator hose inlet (or thermostat housing) and the hose. He informed me
that if I was to purchase also a thermo fan adjustable unit then that item can screw into the temperature unit housing.
The bonus was that the monitor on the dash, fitted with velcoe and easily fixed to my van electric brake unit, has a temperature guage as well as a
voltage indicator.
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Bizarre
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| posted on September 18th, 2011 at 03:08 PM |
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Coming together good.
S'cool when things go together
When you reckon it will be "finished"??
Futue te ipsum!!!
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tweety
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| posted on September 18th, 2011 at 06:27 PM |
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Not long Bizaar
Refit the radiator grill so its easy to get off. Pick up rear protection bar thats getting strengthened and the oil filler thats getting its neck
direction altered (so its easy to put oil in as its been rotated 180 degrees).
Rough tune without exhaust. (not much out if tune cause when I was fitting this sender unit I put the ignition on and accidentally went a bit far and
the thing started up in an instant!!!!). get it trayed to the exhaust joint 75 kms away. pick up and ride man!!
But a few loud kms around my hamlet of a town (Strathbogie Vic) wont hurt before that....eager to see how she'll go.
2 weeks
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