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 tweety
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| posted on March 29th, 2012 at 04:51 PM |
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Test run. I should explain- that my cooling system now includes- about 1500mm of S/S tube, the radiator is lower than the engine, the original temp
sender unit has been replaced by a Hoard instruments sender switch that activates when the temp at that point reaches 95C. on the other side of the
thermostat is a collar containing a sender to a digital temp guage and built in thermatic fan switch.
I had blocked up the one eighth hole in the stat with a rivet. 82C stat.
I had a lot of trouble bleeding the system of air. The Sud radiator has a bleed port at the top nevertheless it still wouldnt pump water around until
finally I filled all the pipes with water. Ok lesson learned there. Now another problem.
Witht he system full of water the head temp would rise so much that the truck reversing alarm would activate. So the temp at the sedner switch was
reaching 95C. But on the cold side of the stat the temp was only 77C. Meaning the thermostat hadnt opened.At 83C the stat opened but the water flow
took about two minutes for the cooler water to reach the stat area so the alarm would go off.
I had the thermfans to switch on at 90C. So lowered that to 88C. They switch off after cooling by 7C so would turn off at 81C. I hoped this would
eliminate the alarm going off by if the engine was left to idle for some time the thermo fans go on but due to the slow water circulation the cooler
water takes too long to reach the alarm sender. If the engine is revving though it isnt a problem. Circulation much better and the temp at cruising
speed remained at 81-82C.
So one remedy was to take out the stat and grind that rivet off that would allow the water to circulate a bit much earlier. Much better in that the
alarm went on but only for a few seconds.
Any recommendations? The alarm sender is a M10 thread. Cant relocate it. There's no plug in the radiator and besides if the engine has a bad leak
its best for me to know quickly, not when the water reaches 95C in the radiator.
Any suggestions as to how I can increase the circulation of the coolant. Is 95C in the head normal prior to the stat opening?
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on March 29th, 2012 at 05:45 PM |
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Hi
Tridon make a high flow thermostat according to their site "TT2041-180 Thermostat (High Flow) High Flow version of TT241-180, allows approximately
30% more coolant flow."
I wonder if one of those would help.
Regarding closing up the hole in the thermostat, did yours have ball valve in it originally?
When I had a WBX in my old bug I drilled the tiniest smallest hole I could in the thermostat to allow air trapped behind the thermostat to escape, I
could completely fill the system cold without staring the motor, I would only need to top up the overflow after few warm ups and cool downs.
Have you driven the trike again you may have had an air pocket in there.
Steve
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tweety
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| posted on March 29th, 2012 at 06:07 PM |
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yeh thanks Steve.
There was a ball valve in the stat and I'd drilled a one eighth hole in it also then at the start of this thread put a rivet in it. Now grownd off
the rivet to get the extra flow. yes, had rear about the extra flow thermostat myslef a while back.
I could go to an even colder stat say 170F (77C) if they are available. Then it is unlikely the alarmwould go off. But must admit, a secondary reason
for placing the bigger radiator up front is the heating capacity on ourselves during winter. So 77C is not hot enough.
The possibility of further air pockets is high. Will test run it more and see what happens. The bigger stat would I think fix this too.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on March 29th, 2012 at 06:20 PM |
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If you have high and low points in your cooling system you need air bleeds at highest points, lots of cars have them, eg water cooled kombi have one
in the top of the factory radiator fitted up the front of the car,holden commodore have them under the plastic engine covers. lots of people have
subaru motors fitted to their bugs with a small radiator up the front of the car and water pumps around by the stock water pump..
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tweety
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| posted on March 29th, 2012 at 08:22 PM |
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Ian.Mezz I think you've hit the nail on the head here!
Before the move to the front the expansion bottle off the radiator was high and nearby with a 220mm hose only.
Now it is still the highest point of the cooling system BUT it is at the rear of the trike and the heater hose it uses runs all the way from the
radiator 2 metres away. Now thats fine but previously it was a easy way for air to escape. So I think a air bleeder on the engine itself would be
the way to go.
Remedy- If I had an extension from the alarm sender unit to a "T" peice with a small hose and bleeder (I have one on the top of the Sud radiator)
then I can bleed it until virtually no air is left.
Thanks mate. That is the answer- off to enzed in the morning.
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Shuffs
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| posted on March 30th, 2012 at 06:42 AM |
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Tweety is it possible to elevate the front of the trike enough,so that the bleed point on the radiator becomes the highest point?It definately sounds
like you still have air in the system,because water pumps won't pump air,and hence when you rev the engine the coolant flow increases,and there is
less chance of the air sitting in the one spot (ie water pump).Ians suggestion of putting another bleed point at the engine should solve the bleeding
problem,but my main concern is that because you have removed the rattle pin from your thermostat,your'e back to square one with your heater not
working properly again.
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tweety
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| posted on March 30th, 2012 at 02:24 PM |
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No, raising the front is not possible. the new hot rod tyre is already 3 inches bigger in diameter then standard.
Went to enzed today and spoke to a guy that has a Subie engined car. His suggestion is that the original heaer hoses that come out of the engine and
now are connected eg a loop to stick a bleed tap there. Then when I fill the cooling system I open it up and the radiator one and firstly close the
radiator one when water comes then close the heater hose one. That will ensure water is in the engine, in the radiator and basically filled so the
pump can do its job.
Thanks to all about this little issue. it might come in handy for others with remote radiators that have become popular. eg two air bleed valve are
recommended, one at the top of the engine and one on top of the radiator.
picture of a beetle at the Yea show and shine
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Shuffs
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| posted on March 31st, 2012 at 07:16 AM |
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Sorry misunderstanding on both our parts.I meant jack it up whilst you bleed the air out not permanently,and I thought you were still using heaters
hence rabbiting on about the thermostat.
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ElusiveStranger
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| posted on March 31st, 2012 at 11:50 AM |
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No drillings - set it up right (can be troublesome)
As said above, Subaru (and other manufacturers) spent millions doing it that way. They know better than you (us)
If you have an underslung rad, you will encounter problems. These can be sorted cheaply. Subaru et all have their rads mounted higher than the motor.
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tweety
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| posted on March 31st, 2012 at 09:30 PM |
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Right Shuffs- makes sense now and yes, easy to raise the front end, never thought of that easy option. couploe of stands and the radiator bleed tube
will be the highest point.
Also. opposite the thermostat is one of those small water tubes for the manifold. If I have a bleed valve off that I can bleed it thoroughly with
fluid then start up. think we are nailing this issue.
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