| [ Total Views: 16125 | Total Replies: 69 | Thread Id: 97043 ] |
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 ian.mezz
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| posted on June 25th, 2012 at 03:21 PM |
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so do you think that you will save money on fuel compaired to the old vw motor and the the stock subaru with out charger ????? or have you change from
saving money on fuel and now going for power.
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tweety
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| posted on June 25th, 2012 at 06:05 PM |
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Ian.mezz I stand by my original reason for going ea81, being simplicity and old school engine OHV, no EMU etc. I can work on this engine but what I
see as complicated engines eg the EJ series engines I cannot work on them.
The ea81 as it was without the sC was adequate but not excessive. One mistake I suppose I cana dmit is the auto VW trans zapped too much power from
it. Add a 500kgms caravan and you are ok at cruising until you hit some hills.
For anyone else in this situation an EJ20 would eb the way to go. As for me I'm glad I cans ervice this engine and trans and do the tappets etc and
it is done in 15 minutes.
As for economy Joel found there is little difference. I exoect it to consume a little more. But it should also fly up the hills easier and use less
fuel then. Time will tell.
I wished I had originally designed the manifold to accomodate a 50mm length of silicone hose. Now that its secure it doesnt matter but it cost me 3
days of work.
Had the trike not had the roof then air filter assemblys would be an issue either. As it is the SC plus the Datsun half manifold and Delorto end up
beign so wide as an assembly that there is little room for an airbox at the end of the carbie. in fact the box will end up only 25mm at one end and
40mm at the other in thickness so the roof frame clears it when it tilts back. I couldnt mount the SC further to the left as the SC outlet would have
gone past the intake hole. I want ed to avoid long silicone hoses from the SC to the intake and achieved that but this is the cost of that
location.
It'll work out but as most of us know if there is any restriction in an airbox, in this case due to it being thin, then you lose power.
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tweety
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| posted on June 26th, 2012 at 07:47 PM |
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 helbus
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| posted on June 26th, 2012 at 08:26 PM |
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I totally respect the mechanical masterpiece you have built. It is Hot Rodding at it's best. Make the best of what you know, and what you have and
what you can afford.
I have an EH Holden with 202 red motor 6 cylinder engine. Supercharged on straight gas. Hey it may only get the same power as a 3.8 V6 Commodore
engine, but it is way cooler.
Like your engine. A stock EJ20 may have done the same power, but the journey of the build and tweaking (tweeting LOL) would have been missed.
There may be some people that will see the entire package you have built, and out of sheer jealousy will diss it. Personally I would love to see
Tweety one day and have a little squirt.
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tweety
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| posted on June 26th, 2012 at 08:47 PM |
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Thanks Hellbus. You are welcome for a ride if and when you come for a visit. Near Euroa Vic.
I dont blame some for querying my choice for the ea81. Lets face the facts, a half cut for a EJ20 is relatively cheap, adapters available etc etc.
But there are reasons. See I'm mid fifties. I burned myslef out totally in my 20's on high performance Lotus engines. Not being trained as a
mechanic, always self taught with some advice from more knowledgable friends. But I recall one Lotus twin cam engine I pulled apart. After reassembly
I ried to connec the connecting link in the cam chain and it fell down into the sump. Out it came again and this time I forgot to insert a rubber tube
that is sandwiched between the head and the block. off came the head. Then finally I cranked it up and bent the four inlet valves. Cam timing was out
one link.
From then on I always stuck with OHV engines. and never felt uncomfortable working them. the ea81 is such a simple engine. no cam chains, no OHC's,
no shims, no timing belts, no tensioners (although I have one now with the SC), single intake and so on. 5 wires. no loom no EMU's. and to boot I
have that extra boost now and still its simplistic. best of both worlds.
So EJ isnt always suitable and this engine is a delight. Dyno results will be interesting
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tweety
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| posted on June 28th, 2012 at 06:10 PM |
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Well today I nearly finished the airbox. The top cap on an angle has to be recut to make it look more presentable. But for $24, it was cheap for
what I wanted it to do.
The box has 75mm plumbing to the vacuum style air hose to the cone filter further towards the front to get all that cool air. Ther is also a join for
the blow off valve.
Replaced the 145 jets with 135, then 130 then 125. Not much change with the bogging down of the engine. So with the 125's in place took to it with
the timing light. Bearing in mind the standard ea81 has its timing marks on the flywheel at the rear and I dont have a flywheel anymore being an
adapter and auto trans from VW.
So the triple crank pulley originally on this engine has a mark on it, and was found from riding uphill slowly until the pinging ceased. A friend had
his Brumby/brat here once and we compared markes and by chance I'd timed it to 8 degrees with that mark in the vertical position on the block
halves...odd eh..
When I replaced that pulley with a standard single V belt pulley I copied that mark over. Then my engineer fixed a 5 ribbed pulley to that. Well I
checked the timing and it was about 20 degrees. Dont know why. But I loosened off the dizzy and the timing light decided to go bush!!.
With the info I had though I could retard the timing quite a lot. I kept doing this until it revved cleanly. Until I get another timing light I dont
know what degrees it is at idle or high revs for that matter. But I'm fairly happy I got the hesitation out. But was I now running lean?. Seemed I
was because at medium revs it seemed to run out of fuel as it slowly died down.
I replaced the 125's with 145's. Smelt quite rich. Replaced them for 135's and it was the happiest its been. That'll do till a tune.
Wanted a test ride but its dark.....lol.
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ian.mezz
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| posted on July 4th, 2012 at 06:50 PM |
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I didnt say nothing about a ej motor .
I was refer to your vw and stock ea81 subaru . before sc added.
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tweety
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| posted on July 4th, 2012 at 08:26 PM |
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Yeh, see what you mean ian. no stress. The Vw engine was poor on economy but it was down on power I think about 20% and was ideal for the buyer to
fiddle with for his beetle.
So the ea81 install I put the weber on straight away and new dizzy and get 10L/100kms compared to 13L/100kms.
Will be interesting with the SC. Power to weight changing and effortless hill climbing might just come out even. But I epect 10% increase in
consumption.
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tweety
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| posted on July 4th, 2012 at 11:06 PM |
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Anyone contemplating adding a SC to their engine might want to consider the following:
there are a number of things I wouldnt do again.
1/ By far the mistake that cost me many hours was the one peice manifold joining the sc to the intake. Had my time again this would ahve been in two
halves and made for a 1 inch section of silicone tube. This would have made mounting easier.
2/ Be aware that the entry and exit mounting bolts are 6mm and often can have worn threads. This might temp you to insert longer bolts for strength
BUT....the holes go through to the spinning lobes meaning damaging them is easily done. I was lucky to realise this as I bolted a longer one up. In
the end I retapped a few of them for larger stubbier bolts that did the trick.
3/ As a novice I didnt realise until later that the first thing to do is line up the pulleys both vertically and horizontally then secure the mount
rather than thinking small amoutns of adjustment is easy.
4/ When purchasing a sC 12 or 14 try and get one with the manifolds. they could come in handy even for bolt hole templates for gaskets etc..
5/ I think the Dellorto 40 DHLA was a good chice. seemed to have no issues with it and can handle the 3-5 psi of my elecric fuel pump with no return
to tank feed needed.
6/ I was happy that I got my engineer to fix the clutch pulley with three precision bolts and the crank pulley also. wasnt that costly and takes the
guessing out. In hindsight the tensioner mount could have been on a better adjusting angle. Works fine but if its not 90 degrees from the belt
adjustment suffers. Is located just above the water pump pulley.
7/ I was happy with the following decisions: location of the supercharger, utilising the cast iron alternator mount, Ford belt tensioner is a gem
to use, carbie choice, supercharger size (didnt need the SC14), draw through rather than blow through, the digital boost gauge (cheap on ebay and easy
to read), ribbed belt rather than V-belt which was my first choice, utilising a 5pr-0965 belt a common size.
looking at a dyno tune. 3rd test ride tomorrow and if all goes well will book it in and results will be scanned and put here.
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tweety
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| posted on July 10th, 2012 at 07:52 PM |
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I've allowed for the gasket goo to set.
At least I know there are no leaks there now on that custom manifold.
Fiddled with jets a bit ended up with 145 mains and 6 degrees timing close to standard timing. But there is still just a little hesitation and as I
got rid of most of it then it has to be a tuning issue. Wont know how ridable it will be until the rain stops.
Click on the next pic for video.
And yet again while fiddling with timing the engine backfired and that BOV worked so well.
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pete wood
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| posted on July 17th, 2012 at 03:43 PM |
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When you put it on the dyno, you should tune it with the airbox open, then try it with the airbox sealed up. Coz I suspect that thin box will be quite
restrictive. I know you're gonna say, "but the supercharger will overcome that". However, no point doing all the hard work on the blower, just to
have the airbox steal 5 hp back.
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tweety
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| posted on July 17th, 2012 at 09:00 PM |
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Pete - you're dead right. Tune up was done with airbox off.
Today was more sweet than bitter but it could have easily turned horrible.
Took off at 6:30am bound for Croydon to my friends at VW performance Centre. Got to yea and broke down at the servo when Tweety's engine wouldn't
restart.
Turned out much later that there was a lot of condensation in the electronic dizzy. Not the first time!
Eventually restarted and the engine broke a supercharger belt at Glenburn. Inspection revealed the belt had a tendency to move towards the engine.
Later Daniel from VWPC found it was out iof alignment by about 3mm resulting in one of the 5 ribs on the belt to fray, break then the rest of the belt
followed.
Luckily I had a spare and pushed on from Yea to Ringwood East where the second belt snapped. I heard it go. But pushed on regardless and found that
indeed the engine can maintain power without the belt...no boost of course.
So Daniel took about 2 hours to make a spacer between the crank pulley and the SC ribbed pulley, plug weld it together etc. Then it was dyno time.
I had had 145's as a main jets in the 40 DHLA Dellorto,. In the end we had 225's so you can imagine how lean it was running. Air jets were
matched. Accelerator "pump" jets had to go to greater sizes too. Initial runs were disappointing. Last years HP maximum was 60 hp at the wheels.
These runs were 58. I asked Daniel to check the throttle. Yep...less that half effective throttle when squeezed tight- my fault. We spent some time
remaking a better throttle set up with more throw and a better link.
82.2 hp at the wheels compared to 59.6 last year. a good jump of 32% in hp. I began to raise a smile.
Torque last year was 440lb this year 570. another substantial increase.
Here is the graph. The green is last years results after the weber carb was installed. Todays is in red. Power is the humped curve, torque the
flatter lines.
That was at the wheels. last year the flywheel HP was 75. This year....well we got it way up toward 98 then we had an issue. The engine firstly
wouldnt idle under 2500 rpm. Then it wouldnt start. The condensation was blown out with air. Then Daniel found a leak between the custom manifold
and the base adapter plate. I recognised that spot. The gasket and hence the gasket goo area was less than 3mm wide between the intake neck and the
mounting stud.
So we packe dup our box of tricks and decided I'd remake the manifold. Daniel supplied me with some 75mm pipe and a leice of 75mm silicome tube.
Homewood bound and the difference was- well extraordinary particularly acceleration between 80-110 kph. Truly quick by previous standards. Tackling
hills is a breeze where previously I'd drop speed to say 80kph or even drop down to second the trike maintains 100 kph effortlessly. When the trike
does hit a slower steeper incline and drop down to second the front of the trike lifts. Not off the ground at that speed say 60kph but you do get that
sensation of the machine sitting on its haunches- nice.
Boost max indicated was 5psi. I think I'll be happy with that. I wont rule out at a later time changing the SC pulley to a slightly smaller one to
get a bit more boost but I'll leave it alone for some time yet.
Now to rebuild that manifold and get the manifold between the Sc and the carbie shortened to make way for a wider air box
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pete wood
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| posted on July 23rd, 2012 at 09:07 AM |
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tweety
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| posted on July 27th, 2012 at 09:16 PM |
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Its taken a while but am ready to install the new improved manifold each side of the SC12.
This is a pic of the original set up. You can see the grey airbox and how thin it had to be due to the roof frame coming very close to it as the roof
was tilted back. The black manifold on the left mounts above the intake. It had an adapter/spacer alloy made by redline under it that had very
littel meat to create a good seal- hence a leak.
This is the new set up. I used the spare lynx manifold half to get it shortened.. This allows for the new airbox. And I'll have one centimetre
spare. The new manifold to the intake is made out of 4x2" steel tube for the top onto 75mm steel tube under to to the intake the latter being halved
for the silicone tube.
Look close enough you might see the Devcon plastic steel lining insdie the lower mount to allow for smoothness for the fuel mix. Good stuff but not
cheap.
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tweety
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| posted on August 5th, 2012 at 01:45 PM |
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Ok, have almost got it all sorted now.
I had serious air leaks between my custom made manifolds. And after much trouble have found that the SC exits are not fully flat...why? Because as
standard they dont need to be!!
Standard manifolds in Toyota cars where these sC12 and SC14 SC's are fitted appear to have tin like material which would flex with the base. Its
about 1mm but enough to cause and issue when using 5 or 8mm plate as a manifold face. I originally used 3mm and that warps when welding takes
place.
I kept the 3mm manifold face but had it linished and used a far better gasket than paper. I picked up some rubber gasket with a strip of alloy in it.
About 2mm thick it is THE stuff to use in this application.
A smear of gasket goo and assembly took place. Now I have an idle to die for. A test run ahve me 5psi and good idle. But it now runs rich- back tot
he dyno machine. Update to come.
The rubber gasket. Superb stuff.
The now two peice custom manifold. Top ring is for the blow off valve. Silicone sleeve and clamps compelte the assembly. A top mount seen on the
left hand side now braces the top of the SC. Note the tensioner is on the "slack" side of the ribbed belt. I plan to purchase two VW generator
mesh shields to make the belts a safe place for fingers. Besides they are law here.
A test run and I'm reminded how effective this Supercharger is. It is more noticable at low revs. The throttle is more touchy and the front wheel
gives me the sensation of lifting. Then there is a progressive acceleration at full throttle that is so much better than non sC. But ti is the speedo
diference that is where the tell tale is. Adn the trike around corners under certain revs seems to sit on its haunches, more on the back wheel as you
power on- a sensation that increases my testosterone...lol . Easily reaching 130kph (private property ok police!! if you are reading) before I backed
off. Am not interested in what it does top speed. This trike is a cruiser and always will be. Dont want my sunroof to reach New Zealand.
There is a slight increase in noise, not loud but a course sound with the added sC spinning away. I'm happy, and happier when the dyno results come
out with it jetted correctly this time.
The manifold face
The rubber gasket- good gaskets
Note the now two peice manifold. Top of SC is now braced see left hand side of pic
Devcon is "gold" both in price and material. but it helps when you line your manifolds with it to make them smooth and resist fuel "pooling"
Top brace needed as manifold is now 2 peice.
Electrical box from Middys for $24 make a reasonable airbox. make sure you place some devcon or araldite in the corners of the see through lid or the
corners break with vibration. Units are sealed well.
This black adapter was founf at supercheap. fits ptretty well. again devcon was used for strength and seal.
Tensioner on the "slack" side of the ribbed belt. Alignment of the belt is important (I broke 3) Take tyour time aligning the SC pulley so the SC
is in the right location.
I just cut down some trumpets so the redline red filters fit on. There is also a cold air intake up the fornt.
Now I'm off to the dyno for the last time
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lou0060
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| posted on August 5th, 2012 at 05:25 PM |
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good work Tweety. looks like you have worked thru the main issues. I reckon you might get another lift in hp now that the air intake is sealed with
no leaks. looking forward to seeing the new graphs.
1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising 
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust 
1968 race beetle - twin turbo Subaru - stress relief 
1960 beetle - old school low & slow  |
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Joel
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| posted on August 5th, 2012 at 07:25 PM |
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You've got that 2 piece manifold nailed now, that joint will help allow for any movement as well as making it easier to assemble/dissasemble.
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tweety
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| posted on August 5th, 2012 at 08:18 PM |
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Yeh, iou0060 end next week hoping for Friday.
Yeh Joel, the number of times I pulled off manifolds were many. its far easier now. In fact If I had my time again 60mm tube would be used even
50mm. because the intake gullet is small anyway. That way mounting bolts/nut would be well out of the way.
That solid manifold I made didnt allow for any movement of the SC when the belt kept coming off. I've ordered 2x VW mesh genny shields to mate them
to cover all belts.
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tweety
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| posted on August 12th, 2012 at 06:18 PM |
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the situation now is this: dyno tune with no airleaks took place Friday and main jets went down from 225 to 180 a heap less. the supercharger produces
4psi with the rare 5psi showing on the guage. Sadly I've lost any economy gain I had when going from the VW 1916cc engine to the ea81. Shame, I
enjoyed the extra 100kms to a tank (50 litres). Dual fuel is still a thought. I need to investigate this- even if I have to use a different carbie to
a single throat but LPG tank size (scuba size) and if I can fit them???(unlikely). 13-14 L/100kms is a bit hard to swallow especially when we want to
ride 17,000 kms around Oz towing our van which will drink more.
We rode to Ballarat to see our new pup (mini foxy) through rain and freezing cold temp. The only issues with the engine was a very small leak
(again) in the manifold area me thinks the silicone sleeve. The two halves of the tube it covers is oval shaped- not a good seal. easy fixed and
fixed it will be.
The up side is the performance. Up hills it flies. Easily exceeding my expectations and this is with 1 or 2psi on a light throttle. As a comparison
going up the Euroa to Strathbogie mountain Tweety with the VW engine would slow down to 60kph, into second for 300 metres before enough speed to go
into top. The ea81 unblown would slow to 80kph into second also but enough revving ability to maintain 80. With the blower 105kph easily reached and
maintained top gear likley more if full throttle used. You soon realsie that you rarely need full throttle. This is a big difference. Also
overtaking is done in a blink of an eye - a safety feature.
The engine is noisier understandably. A few options. One is ear plugs, ipods whatever. The other is some soundproofing under the body of the trike
fixed to the fiberglass. Its a gitsy sound but a bit of a drone after some time. When we got home and its idled I touched the SC and it wasnt hot. I
was udner the belief it would be too hot to touch. So I'm thinking of making a jacket for it out of fireproof material, something I could slip over
it and take off easily. However I'd assume this is going against logic as the sC needs to emit heat so I might go the other way with
soundproofing.
What is a positive is the supercharger drivability with the VW 3 speed type 3 auto. The old 3 speed can be a durable unit but like all 3 speed autos-
a slug really. With this extra power and torque with instant response from 32% more mower and 30% more torque you dont need those extra gears you long
for. Its an impressive result for me. Just the economy and noise has to be looked at.
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tweety
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| posted on August 14th, 2012 at 07:07 PM |
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With a slight leak in the manifold I've decided to track down some good gasket material for the supercharger especially the seal between the SC and
both sides entry and exit.
Clark rubber have a material called Nitrile. Available in black 3mm or white 1.5-6mm (I think white is for food contact) Its 3mm thick and resembles
basic black rubber. It is a massive $120 per metre 150mm wide. ouch! So bought 300mm strip for $40. But you dont normally use a lot.
Temp range is about -30 to +90 C. Suitable for petrol and oils.
Furthermore it might be reusable. I'll try it.
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tweety
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| posted on August 23rd, 2012 at 05:47 AM |
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The NITRILE rubber gaskets worked perfectly and now there are no leaks at all.
It means I'll need now a thrid dyno tune to get smaller jets but as I'm checking out water injection I'll wait till that is installed.
Can now concentrate of cosmetics. Two vW Scat belt guards protect fingers- a legal requirement in Victoria.
There are two belts now and too wide for a single guard.
3 wing nuts with welded bolts make detachement easy and quick.
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ElusiveStranger
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| posted on August 25th, 2012 at 08:21 PM |
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Nice work Tweety 
Is there a slight bearing rattle on one of the videos?
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tweety
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| posted on August 25th, 2012 at 08:48 PM |
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There has been a few rattles here and there. All gone now though.
One came from the dizzy before it was dismantled and retarded by the ingotion place. One came from a small bolt that I inserted into a stud hole in
the SC and it was a little too long causing it to just touch the lobe. Took the tiniest bit of coating off but no real harm.
Once I fixed those it quietened down a lot but I could still hear a knock. That was before the dyno. Ignition set and since then had to retard it
only 2 degrees or so to rid it of pinging altogether. Glad all those knocks were easily fixed.
Tonight I started him up in the cold. choke, two throttle squirts, starts straight away. the tune is spot on except it is a little rich. Water
inejction not far away.
Will be on dosplay at Melbourne motorcycle expo Novemebr 24th thereabouts. in the foyer.!!!
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pete wood
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| posted on August 25th, 2012 at 09:41 PM |
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I'd still say that airbox was a little small.
How are the power figures now?
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tweety
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| posted on August 25th, 2012 at 10:25 PM |
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the pwoer figure didnt change. I realsied why and thats because even though nealry all the leakage was fixed, and the jets went from 225 down to 180
the jets were still a bit big due to the leak around the silicone rubber seal due to the tube being oval shape.
now that that is fixed fully and there are no leaks at all it is running still quite rich hence now change in output. Sure is running nicely
though.
I have a starter and headlight issue ATM so am otherwise occupied. But soon I'll have water injection. Planning 25:1 ratio or 20:1. just enough to
allow for 2 litres of water per 50 litre tankful. Hoping that is enough to allow for a little advance and better economy. Then a final dyno. If the
water inj and all leaks fixed gets me more power I'll be wrapped. a few HP maybe.
But first the water injection. Getting a SNOW injection pump, commodore spray washer bottle, low elvel indicator switch, nozzles etc. The jets will
be reduced after that.
I will say this pete. Never before has tweety raised its front wheel on take off so easily. I like to raise it say 50mm fo 5 metres or so for the
sensation. And uphill kickdown from 3rd to 2nd give a feeling like it will lift. It is a reflection of the hp. Reckon it will tow nicely too but
been too busy to hook up Sylvester (van) to try it. A humble ea81 now at 82hp pushing 550 kgms is quite a delight when blown. Uphills are a beeze.
Everything Joel described with his blowing the bug thread is right on.
Will consider a larger airbox.There is another size. The same size as the original one I sliced down but now I have the room having cut down the lynx
manifold carbie to SC I can consider it.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on August 26th, 2012 at 05:01 PM |
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It could be that it's running rich coz it's not getting enough air. Sure, the supercharger is positive displacement, but anything that impedes the
air supply also impedes the efficiency.
What you are feeling re lifting is torque. Supercharger gives you instantaneous torque.
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tweety
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| posted on August 26th, 2012 at 05:20 PM |
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Thanks Pete- makes sense. I'll change that box for the bigger one that about three times bigger. see how that goes. economy could improve also.
will advise. thanks mate.
Yeh that torque increase is nice low down power. the standard ea81 has maz torque at 2400 rpm. reckon with it blown it is at a lower revs now and 30%
more its like its added 2 cylinders.
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on August 27th, 2012 at 01:09 PM |
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Because the rootes pump is positive displacement, the extra power is literally the same as a bigger engine being filled at atmospheric pressure.
Greedy's old baywindow had a 1600 with a blower. He did the maths and reckoned the pump made it equivalent of a 2.1L stroker. So yeah, for you it
feels like extra engine capacity.
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tweety
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| posted on August 29th, 2012 at 11:37 AM |
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Cant wait to see this engine leaned out to where it should be.
The economy issue is getting clearer. My wife followed me up the freeway today. A black misty wet cloud came out of the exhaust on several occasions
unbeknown to me. Seems accelerator jets or main are far too big maybe. Its running nice otherwise but very rich. At lights for the forst time I
floored the throttle and boy....smiles...very quick off the mark.
So on with the water injection, replace the airbox with a larger one of similar shape (thanks) and back for a final dyno.
Water injection parts so far received:
VT-VY Commodore (black) washer bottle ebay $28.25 this with a long neck to reach up to the vent that gives access to the overflow bottle on the body.
I found it has a 2.6 litre capacity. (from Carsareus) +postage.
Inline caravan carbon filter $47.95 free post
2x water atomising jets ($24 ea). part number B1/4TT+TX-4 (Assembly) 1mm oriface size. Think might need only one of these. as nozzle calculator
suggests 0.60mm size but roots blowers take up to twice that amount.
Spraying Systems Co P/L 0393180511 (Vic)
Snow performance pump 150 psi is yet to arrive
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tweety
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| posted on August 31st, 2012 at 05:28 PM |
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Set up the pump and connected the nozzle assembly. This being the finest nozzle you can use for atomisation being 0.036 from Spraying Systems
Australia. 220psi pump.
As you can see here the result is best described as "cold steam".
First run, pumped one litre in 8 minutes.
unscrewed the small screw at the pump and second run pumped one litre in 10 minutes.
Means if running the pump only on boost I could run boost say for 25 minutes a tank of fuel. Thats ok I think. If not I'll need to increase the
water storage from 2.5 litres.
So am on the search for a system that will switch the pump on at low boost or at half throttle. I'm concerned that less than half throttle will hit
boost say uphill and not turn the pump on. Gotta check this out.
Emailed Huson instruments for a 0.5-1 psi hobbs switchand they told me quote:
Tony,
I don’t believe that you will get an accurate switch point this low
03 94574755
Regards Rodger
Ho hum!!!!
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