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Author: Subject:  Humpty's finally got off his arse and begun a real drag car project!
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posted on June 13th, 2012 at 08:27 AM



Troys car is going to run methanol once finished. Biggest advantage is cooling properties as it will be running 30 psi as well!!



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posted on June 13th, 2012 at 09:52 AM



Cheers for the advise DB..... Always glad to hear from someone who's been there..... Currently I do run premium, but the plugs are not enjoying the experience.... Mostly I believe this is down to the engine rarely getting to temp..... I fitted hotter plugs a while back, and they did last longer, and I know the bolt on combo is too much for the mild long block, but now I know it works, it's time to step up the capacity.... And this is where the fuel question comes in.... With methanol you can get away without running all the cooling gear in place too, correct?.... If this is a by product of cool running, how does the engine get to temp in the first place?.... Or don't you guys worry about that?



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posted on June 13th, 2012 at 10:05 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by nbturbo
A bit off the topic Dave( Methanol Man ) Do you use any form of additive with the Methanol ?


I really should run an additive Gary, but am a bit lazy.
I have in the past.
I have heard great things about the VP M2 brand additive!
(from guys that use it)

Simon, yes it is very difficult to get any decent engine temp without some load.

Don't forget to use some common sense when it coms to plugs fouling.

Unless it is some super cold plug,
and 3:1 compression ratio,
look at the cause first before blaming the fuel.

It is either too rich at some point in the curve
(probably at idle),
or it is oil contamination.

Don't forget all the modern cars around
that use that fuel and go at least 20000 km before the plugs need anything....usually mch more with irridium and modern ignition...LIKE YOU HAVE!!!!

Poor atomisation/manifold can mean you have to run a rich idle mixture...
"fix the cause not the symptom"
This is bit of advice my doctor gave me but it works well from everything from cars to relationships!!




Quote:
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posted on June 13th, 2012 at 11:37 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by dangerous
"fix the cause not the symptom"
This is bit of advice my doctor gave me


ha ha ha ...Dr Berg I believe.....been practising that one for many years...except for the relationship bit:lol:

EDIT: Oh, and I agree re fouling plugs...has to be a rich condition happening somewhere, from your vid, I feel it is in the idle circuit area (yeah I know it's a Holley :) )




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posted on June 13th, 2012 at 06:13 PM



Yeah it's very rich in the idle circuit.... It's real sweet under boost.... I have attempted to tune it out a little.... Unfortunately I haven't found the 'sweet spot' for the baby motor... Either too much fuel or not enough.... There just isn't enough intake velocity to compensate in the lower speeds..... The carb, turbo and header are way too big for the little engine (which I figured they would be).... I believe that the (long planned) larger capacity engine will go a long way to alleviate the low speed/over rich mixture problem, and be a way better match for the bolt on bits.

But I'm sure other challenges will crop up when that engine is finally installed!




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posted on June 13th, 2012 at 08:40 PM



I had all sorts of problems with plugs fouling. The biggest issue was the low comp ratio I ran originally but I still have a 600 Holley on a 1641 with big jets to account for leaning under boost. It has bogging issues but I found simply screwing the idle up has made a difference.
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posted on June 13th, 2012 at 08:57 PM



That's a good point Andrew.....My little 1776 i's only a 7.5:1 comp deal!!!!
Have always been surprised as to how well it goes considering the passive nature of the engine.... Guess it's down to those amazing heads I got off Adam (Keith Hauslers old mate) all those years ago.... Shimo gave them some love back in 94 for me... Done naught to them since but a set of exhaust valves! :lol:




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posted on June 14th, 2012 at 05:53 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by dangerous
Quote:
Originally posted by nbturbo
A bit off the topic Dave( Methanol Man ) Do you use any form of additive with the Methanol ?
.
Thanks Dave - what is your experience with methanol and initial break in for a new engine ? Guess some sort of additive would be useful then.

I really should run an additive Gary, but am a bit lazy.
I have in the past.
I have heard great things about the VP M2 brand additive!
(from guys that use it)

Simon, yes it is very difficult to get any decent engine temp without some load.

Don't forget to use some common sense when it coms to plugs fouling.

Unless it is some super cold plug,
and 3:1 compression ratio,
look at the cause first before blaming the fuel.

It is either too rich at some point in the curve
(probably at idle),
or it is oil contamination.

Don't forget all the modern cars around
that use that fuel and go at least 20000 km before the plugs need anything....usually mch more with irridium and modern ignition...LIKE YOU HAVE!!!!

Poor atomisation/manifold can mean you have to run a rich idle mixture...
"fix the cause not the symptom"
This is bit of advice my doctor gave me but it works well from everything from cars to relationships!!
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posted on June 15th, 2012 at 12:07 AM



?



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posted on June 15th, 2012 at 05:14 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by nbturbo
Quote:
Originally posted by dangerous
Quote:
Originally posted by nbturbo
A bit off the topic Dave( Methanol Man ) Do you use any form of additive with the Methanol ?
.

I really should run an additive Gary, but am a bit lazy.
I have in the past.
I have heard great things about the VP M2 brand additive!
(from guys that use it)

Simon, yes it is very difficult to get any decent engine temp without some load.

Don't forget to use some common sense when it coms to plugs fouling.

Unless it is some super cold plug,
and 3:1 compression ratio,
look at the cause first before blaming the fuel.

It is either too rich at some point in the curve
(probably at idle),
or it is oil contamination.

Don't forget all the modern cars around
that use that fuel and go at least 20000 km before the plugs need anything....usually mch more with irridium and modern ignition...LIKE YOU HAVE!!!!

Poor atomisation/manifold can mean you have to run a rich idle mixture...
"fix the cause not the symptom"
This is bit of advice my doctor gave me but it works well from everything from cars to relationships!!


Thanks Dave - what is your experience with methanol and initial break in for a new engine ? Guess some sort of additive would be useful then.




If you are not breaking in a new cam and lifters
then your first dyno session is all you will need to break the engine in.
Other than making sure you do not contaminate the oil with methanol,
it would be no different to any other break- in.
ie get some load on it to assist the rings' seal.




Quote:
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posted on June 15th, 2012 at 09:59 AM



That's great info Dave..... But since mine will be a totally new engine.... Would it be safer to break in with PULP first?



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posted on June 20th, 2012 at 01:00 AM



Thinking, thinking....

http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/92000038/images/xntu2x7b9ab50teb.jpg

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221044943769?hlp=false 




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posted on June 20th, 2012 at 01:39 AM



Wow , it only weighs 3 lbs !
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posted on June 20th, 2012 at 09:24 AM



I know.... And 500CCA too!!..... Should be more than man enough to turn the Dub over hey?



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posted on June 20th, 2012 at 11:41 AM



Nice, a great way to save weight. :tu: Must save 10-12 kg :tu::tu:



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posted on June 20th, 2012 at 06:12 PM



I was looking at that battery that Morgan has in his car, but the price was crazy... Then I found out about these from a dude I know who's into Harleys :crazy: But the lead was solid.... They look prefect for the job IMO.
Think I'll order one.... With all the weight saving going on, I might even crack a full power run one day.... :rolleyes:




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posted on June 21st, 2012 at 06:43 AM



the word ballistic in the desription amuses me....:)
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posted on June 21st, 2012 at 08:50 AM



Gotta love LiFePo stuff!
I need a new battery for my ride, and since it takes a bloody great Harley battery, this will save 5 or 6kg.
Onya Simon! Cool link.
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posted on June 21st, 2012 at 09:44 AM



That's massive Output for such small dimensions,
Thanks for sharing.




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posted on June 21st, 2012 at 03:29 PM



could you put this in a street driven bug?
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posted on June 21st, 2012 at 08:09 PM



yep....



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posted on July 24th, 2012 at 11:43 PM



Morg's has been hanging around my place the last couple of days.... So I put him to work this arvo....

We built up some new plug leads, which fixed some of the crappy and fiddly connections I had before.... We then got the POS running after only a few cranks....

It's actually running and idling better than ever..... I reckon these more positive connections on both the plug and coil have improved things markedly.

Might get a road permit for the weekend and go for a spin on the street!!!! :lol:




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posted on July 25th, 2012 at 09:12 AM



http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/shop/search/536/deka-power-sport.html 

Arrives in 2 days. They are ATV/Seedoo batteries. Little heavier than above, but far cheaper




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posted on July 25th, 2012 at 09:51 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by BiX
http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/shop/search/536/deka-power-sport.html 

Arrives in 2 days. They are ATV/Seedoo batteries. Little heavier than above, but far cheaper


I hope it has enough CCA s to get you started. Mitchell




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posted on July 25th, 2012 at 09:56 AM



I wouldnt waste money on a battery like that.



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posted on July 25th, 2012 at 12:51 PM



The battery BiX suggested or the ones I am looking at Ian?

I have to also say.... This seemingly stronger spark has made some difference in other areas.... The AFR's on the POS are much better now too..... Idle's around 12-13 (1000rpm... The high idle rpm keeps the intake velocity up and fueling to a minimum), and rev's around 10-11.... So the referenced PV is working fine as it always had.... Ill see how she goes under boost later.




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posted on July 26th, 2012 at 07:42 AM



they also have the Yausa brand which are very light and still cheap.



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posted on July 30th, 2012 at 10:43 PM



Dumb idea time.....

I want to turn the POS into a consistent 11.0 car.

Asking too much?




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posted on July 30th, 2012 at 10:46 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by BiX
they also have the Yausa brand which are very light and still cheap.


Cold Cranking Amps are no where near what the other batteries produce.




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posted on July 30th, 2012 at 11:17 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by humpty
Dumb idea time.....

I want to turn the POS into a consistent 11.0 car.

Asking too much?


Onya Humpty!
Rattle those LSx cages........
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