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 Joel
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| posted on October 9th, 2010 at 09:42 AM |
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Such an important skill to have, will look great on your résumé.
Now I don't know if these ECU's have a CMOS battery inside or what but my first ECU from the the original donor Liberty used to erase the codes
after only a few hours of no power.
Since I made that vid it has sat for a full 24hours almost to the dot and when I reconnected the power the code is still in the memory 
Looks like I may have to learn the ancient black magic voodoo art of clearing error codes
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colonel mustard
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| posted on October 9th, 2010 at 12:11 PM |
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or find a dealer with a computer.... 
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DylanTheDubber
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| posted on October 9th, 2010 at 12:43 PM |
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Joel , you done it again mate , just another thing i cant belive you and i are on the same wave lenth. I saw in your picture with the cat , computer
and console that you put your air con switches in and also the compressor. have you got it opperational yet? Where did you get the switches from?
From Dylan
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Joel
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| posted on November 23rd, 2010 at 12:20 PM |
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Just an update on a couple of things
Most will remember when I first put the engine in the standard EJ22 oil filler sat to high for the decklid to shut
i got around that by cutting abut 1" out and joining it back with some rad hose and hose clamps.
Bit of a hokey fix but its worked for over a year now
I had to get some A/C lines out of a 97 Outback for the aircon conversion and that same car kindly donated its oil filler.
The EJ25 have a short one thats cocked over at more of an angle with a dogleg in it.
A good OEM solution to the problem
If your putting a SOHC engine in a bug this will do the job well....... as long as you dont have A/C
Discharge line is in the way but without a compressor in the way it would work well
The other change I made was a new surge tank.
My fuel system worked fine, but after 30-45 mins running in hotter weather my EFI pump started getting noisy.
It wasnt cavitating but it certainly wasn't happy either.
The first one was only 1L and the fuel rail return was right next to the EFI pump supply so it was doing alot of recirculating hot fuel.
Matt that made my first one knocked up a new one the same only twice as tall and with a supply at the bottom but all the returns at the very top.
Fuel pump is much happier now, even after giving the car some shit through burringbar range on the way home from goldcoast on sunday it was still
quiet as a mouse.
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Bugaru03
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| posted on November 23rd, 2010 at 11:57 PM |
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That's pretty good find Joel, the oil filler will help the situation!! Thanks for the update..
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Inane Cathode
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| posted on November 25th, 2010 at 04:05 AM |
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Subaru svx has a really short oil filler, its probably about 4 inches tall, it might also work.
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Joel
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| posted on March 24th, 2011 at 07:23 PM |
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I guess this thread is due for an update seeing as engine number 2 has been in 18 months and over 12,000kms now.
Aside from the radiator swap all I've done in that time is change the oil and filter once and late last year I built a new exhaust for rego as my
"temporary" one was disintergrating.
The baby Alfa radiator has been working out well, the ultimate test was coming home from dubs by the pub on a 40c+ day with the 2 of us in the car,
sitting on 115 on the motorway with the A/C on, the highest temp in the memory (my new temp gauge has peak recall) was 98c.
And I know when that happened too, the A/C decided to cut in at the bottom of the Gateway bridge and ran almost till the top which was when the
highest temp was reached.
Not even breaking a sweat.
The standard Subaru temprature gauges dont even move between 80-110c to stop people worrying - common feature in most jap cars, my Laser is the
same.
Average Fuel mileage which for me is 20kms into town and back out on windy hilly country roads is 8.5-9L/100
Stop/start round town with A/C use is 9.5-10 worst I've ever got was 10.4
Still havent beaten my Valla return trip Grafton to Ballina of 6.6 but an average highway run yeilds 7.4-7.6
So all is well but I wasn't about to break Joel tradition and leave good enough alone.
Hanging around with the Subi boys is becoming a bad and expensive influence.
They have discovered my weakness and are exploiting my Magpie Syndrome:
MMMMMMM Shiney Stuffz
It all started innocently enough.
I was just having a chinwag with the boss (he's an old VW nut from way back) eyeing off the EJ20 Sequential Twin Turbo package sitting on the
floor
Thinking along the lines of that would go really sweet in the back of my bug.
But I haven't heard from many people inclusive of most Subi mechanics with a nice thing to say about the twin turbo engines and the boys have just
done 2 conversions in the last few months fitting them and refuse to have part of another.
Also by the time you go through all the bullshit involved in converting one to single you may as well start off with a single turbo package.
But finding one of them than hasn't had the arse flogged off it is a mission all of it's own.
As it turned out when it was fitted to the dark blue Liberty in the back ground and fired up it had a bad big end knock 
So anyway I had a discussion with him about creating a hybrid engine - An EJ20 turbo bottom end with SOHC heads so it would fit my bug with no body
work.
Turbo placement would be easy as pie and a small charge cooler like Micks 58 so no firewall mods were needed.
Well as it turns out my stock EJ22 block is just as strong as your garden variety 90s Open deck block EJ20T engines and can safely support 14psi and
over 200hp
I'd read that sort of thing on the internetz before but to hear it from the mouth of a long time professional subi mechanic and race car driver put
my mind abit more at ease.
Luckily for me my bug being the weight it is and in the 74 and later ADR rules category means 2.2 is the biggest size engine I can legally fit a turbo
to.
If that's not a sign I dunno what is.
So after a quick tear down revealed my engine really is a spring chicken fresh off subi mumma's teet we made some heads abit more turbo freindly and
now baby's ready for boost.
All I gotta do now is work out turbo placement and make up a header.
I've got another stock header here I'll chop up and use.
The stock EJ20T ones hang too low and are cast so there's not much you can do with them
A chargecooler would be more suitable than an A2A intercooler but then i gotta find room for another radiator.
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1303Steve
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| posted on March 24th, 2011 at 09:49 PM |
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Hi Joel
Good news, may the boost be with you.
I was talking the local subi guy the other day, not keen on 2.5 at all, we talked about one day building a 2.2
Steve
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ElusiveStranger
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| posted on March 25th, 2011 at 06:00 AM |
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Hehe, sweet dude
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ian.mezz
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| posted on March 25th, 2011 at 07:18 AM |
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I knew that ride in my super was always going to make you want to get a TURBO  
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rocknrob
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| posted on March 25th, 2011 at 08:49 AM |
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any plans to lower the compression joel? i want to go back to my ej22 as well so i'll be watching with interest
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Joel
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| posted on March 25th, 2011 at 12:37 PM |
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It's down a tiny bit due to headgaskets used but I didn't want to drop it too much.
You can get different thickness headgaskets to play with the CR.
There is two ways to go with forced induction.
keep the CR high and just run low boost, this gives nice all round drivability with abit extra power on tap.
or run a lower CR and heaps of boost,
This can be fun and the way alot of people usually go cos when it starts spooling it gives a real kick up the arse.
The trade off is the drivability off boost is horrible.
I'm not looking for big numbers, just abit extra power to play with, it has more than enough now but like everything you get used to it.
I don't plan on running more than 5-6psi, even that will probably spell doom for my gearbox.
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Jeza
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| posted on March 25th, 2011 at 05:59 PM |
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Nice move Joel
Once again I will be watching with great interest...
What work did you have done on the heads?
Cheers
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
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Joel
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| posted on March 26th, 2011 at 09:02 AM |
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They are pretty strong heads to start with, you could probably use them as is.
I just had them stripped, media blasted, new guides and stem seals, cam seals, turbo valve springs, might be new valves I'll have to look at the
docket and some stronger head gaskets.
I was going to do some porting while they were stripped down but laziness got the better of me, just cbf getting each one identical.
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lou0060
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| posted on March 26th, 2011 at 04:13 PM |
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looking good Joel. the EJ20TT would have been an interesting conversion on a street car. I had to do a fair bit of cutting to make mine fit as you
can see from the photos. I took the whole fire wall out. anyway, your heads look nice and neat. look forward to seeing how it comes together.
which shop is this? and what did the heads end up costing?
1971 karmann ghia Cabrio - Cruising 
1963 beetle Sunroof - gathering dust 
1968 race beetle - twin turbo Subaru - stress relief 
1960 beetle - old school low & slow  |
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Collinsm1
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| posted on March 26th, 2011 at 10:04 PM |
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Hey Joel, I have been reading over your project for along time now and have been collecting the parts i need for me to do the conversion. I just
wanted to know how to contact you as i need some help with some thing.
Thanks
Mitchell |
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Joel
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| posted on March 27th, 2011 at 10:39 AM |
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Mitchell, just drop me an email boosted_bug at yahoo dot com and I can send you my mobile number.
Lou, it's Subie Village, the boss was telling me those TT motors have really good bottom and topend power when everything is working right, it's
just that transition from the small turbo to the primary one leaves the mid range hanging, and once that black box of doom starts playing up not
sending vac signals and such which control the turbos the boost levels start to drop off
Also due to the ECU control of the 2 turbos it's not easy to run aftermarket management.
I have seen a couple fitted to bugs and a split window Kombi, biggest problem is the second turbo interferes with the starter motor.
It was abit over $300 per head which for a full recondition is good value, my 1776 heads cost me alot more than that.
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ElusiveStranger
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| posted on March 27th, 2011 at 12:11 PM |
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Joel, wasn't it Rockinrob who added a turbo on here, running a low boost?
Shirley (sic) you could do better - super charger "Mad Max" stylee
Still loving this thread. You've been there, done that, then marched on.
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Jak Rizzo
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| posted on March 27th, 2011 at 02:04 PM |
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Joels gettin a Turbo, Joels gettin a Turbo, Joels gettin a Turbo....................
to be honest, that took longer than I expected, u thought u were havin fun before
Joels gettin a Turbo.................u should have that as a ring tone
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Joel
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| posted on March 27th, 2011 at 08:00 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ElusiveStranger
Shirley (sic) you could do better - super charger "Mad Max" stylee
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I'd love to but sadly the old crowd favorite is abit too chunky to fit anywhere
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ttriebler
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| posted on March 27th, 2011 at 10:30 PM |
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Good to see you're gettin boosted Joel, this should make for interesting reading.
Reversed gears for Subaru transmissions.
Fit a Subaru 5 speed to your rear engined car
www.subarugears.com |
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ElusiveStranger
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| posted on March 28th, 2011 at 06:30 AM |
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| Quote: | I'd love to but
sadly the old crowd favorite is abit too chunky to fit anywhere
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I could give that a very good home, plenty of room in my bay.
Hand it over!
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rocknrob
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| posted on March 28th, 2011 at 06:42 AM |
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yeah joel...are you interested in parting with that setup? i know a young fella who is looking for some grunt out of his L bug
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Joel
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| posted on March 28th, 2011 at 08:21 AM |
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Ha, like all my old crap I tend to hang onto to it cos everytime I get rid of something I end up needing/wanting it later.
Scares me abit sometimes when I look how much stuff is sitting around gathering dust though.
I've got over $3k just in rims alone sitting around doing nothing.
By the time I sold off all my engines, gofast bits, gearboxes, audio gear, VW panels etc I'd probably have a lifetime supply of beer money
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Jak Rizzo
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| posted on March 28th, 2011 at 12:05 PM |
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Joel , have u had your bug on the dyno?, would be great to have a before & after comparison
regards
Jak
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Joel
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| posted on March 28th, 2011 at 12:20 PM |
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I'll see if i can get out to the tafe sometime and get it on the dyno but stock EJ22s in a VW always seem to hit 100hp at the wheels
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Joel
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| posted on March 31st, 2011 at 07:12 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ttriebler
Good to see you're gettin boosted Joel, this should make for interesting reading.
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Cheers Todd, I just came across some of your handy work on Youtube, that blue EJ22 69 bug with the 5 speed box turned out sweet.
Thats on my list when my gearbox finally dies
OK So quick question for the turbo guys.
If I flip my coolant manifold and mount my header tank on the other side I have plenty of room for the turbo in the stock spot.
radiator hose is stopping it sitting right up in the normal spot at the moment
If I clock the turbine housing and get the inlet facing the side more I can probably utilize my existing header.
Drain can run into the rocker cover and will still have plenty of fall
Only trouble I have that I knew I would encounter is that Kafer bar is sitting right where the turbo needs to go....
I know we had the thread about them interfering with heaterboxes but nothing really came up as an alternative.
So what is everyone else doing??
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seagull
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| posted on April 1st, 2011 at 03:01 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi Joel
Good news, may the boost be with you.
I was talking the local subi guy the other day, not keen on 2.5 at all, we talked about one day building a 2.2
Steve
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Taken from a wrx forum
Here's an interesting piece of information regarding bearing clearances as list by Subaru having WAY too much of a tolerance range & why this is
not so good for #2 & #3 con rod bigends (generally the two that fail hard) specificly in the EJ engine family.
"For example, according to the Subaru Manual, the acceptable range for the connecting rod oil clearance is 0.0007-0.0018 inches. While a tolerance of
0.0011 inches might not seem significant, it actually allows an oil volume difference of 264 percent.
In other words, the larger clearance of 0.0018 inches allows 2.6 times more oil to pass through the bearing and thereby accomplish one of its primary
functions: removing heat. This is a dramatic increase in terms of bearing heat-load management. At the lower end of the Subaru production engine
clearance scale, 0.0007 is woefully inadequate for providing effective heat removal in a performance/ high boost engine."
Whilst this ^^ is interesting from an engineering point of view and quazzi standard practice for most mass produced engines - 11 thou is a huge range
for a 'standard' bearing clearance, the following spells out why this is bad particularly to any EJ.......
Unlike the bigends for cyls 1 & 4 - which are fed from separate, individual main journals - the bigends of cyls 2 & 3 are fed oil from the
same single point on the crankshaft (#3 main journal)
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rocknrob
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| posted on April 1st, 2011 at 09:12 AM |
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Hi Joel i have a set of standard turbo manifolds here you are welcome to borrow to figure your turbo location
also here is a pic using na headers for the turbo...still pretty low
[img] [/img]
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STIDUB
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| posted on April 1st, 2011 at 10:55 AM |
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uh... wheres the V-band style clamp part that holds the exhaust housing & the center of the turbo together???
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