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 Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on November 27th, 2011 at 11:36 PM |
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I managed to get a new can of paint on Friday. Nice and blue 
I also did the outward facing area of the new caliper pistons.
Then bake on a low heat for one hour, or until your mum asks WTF is in her oven 
Smiley 
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on November 27th, 2011 at 11:41 PM |
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Then reassemble with new seals and bolts. Always remember, when lubricating seals for the braking system, the only thing you use is new brake
fluid.
With any luck my calipers brackets and spacers will be CNC plasma cut this week and I can put everything together for a final check over. Then I just
need to work out how to rebuild these Country Buggy spindles so I can fit everything to the car.
That's all for now, more soon.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Anthiron
A.k.a.: Nicko McKay
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The Baja Rejuvenation Begins
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| posted on November 28th, 2011 at 06:57 PM |
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Hi Smiley
Yeah as you probobly know I am Chasing down a set of CB spindles.
I probobly will put them aside when I get my hands on some as there are more pressing things to spend money on atm.
But when the time comes I will PM you.
Finding your build very inspirational.
Cheers
Nicko
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Anthiron
Following your brake build smiley. Looks like the goods so far.
If it all works and you don't mind I would love a copy of the list of compenents etc.
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No worries man. If you decide to go ahead with it I'd love to help you out. I can get a set of caliper brackets made or even do a up a full brake
conversion kit for you. Remember this is only for Country Buggy spindles though.
PM me if you are interested.
Smiley
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62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on November 28th, 2011 at 10:37 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Anthiron
Hi Smiley
Yeah as you probobly know I am Chasing down a set of CB spindles.
I probobly will put them aside when I get my hands on some as there are more pressing things to spend money on atm.
But when the time comes I will PM you.
Finding your build very inspirational.
Cheers
Nicko
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No worries man.
And I am loving the progress you are making on your car! I need to take a leaf out of your book and actually get stuck in a do some more mods to
mine.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Scarab
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| posted on December 8th, 2011 at 10:31 AM |
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hey mate,
just thought Id drop in and say hi.....and congratulate you on the Baja.....looking the goods mate, and the brakes should be a huge imporvement!
keep up the great work!
Scarab (aka: Paul)
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 14th, 2011 at 09:04 PM |
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It's a long story, but basically I broke the gearbox while offroading last Saturday. Currently stuck in 2nd gear with broken selector forks 
So that's put a little bit of a handbrake on proceedings for the time being.
Despite being able to get another Type 3 box for nothing, I've decided to fit a Kombi box instead. I know that I would probably just break another
Type 1 box, plus the ratios aren't very good for offroad use.
Luckily enough I happen to have a few Kombi boxes lying around. A 5-rib 1800 box was selected as it has the best ratios for offroad and highway use,
remember this car is still my daily (when it's not broken)
Here it is ready for a degrease.
And after I scraped some of the sludge off it and a quick degreasing later.
The bellhousing still has some heavy gunk in it. I have to pull it off to cut the input shaft down anyway, so I'm going to take it to work and run it
through the thermojet hot wash to get it nice and clean.
Smiley
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 matberry
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| posted on December 14th, 2011 at 09:09 PM |
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Had to happen, good decision going with the 1800.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 14th, 2011 at 09:14 PM |
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It wasn't long before I had the bellhousing off and the input shaft removed. The box was actually quite clean inside, and the oil wasn't burnt or
smelly when I dropped it.
I've spoke to Dave Butler this afternoon and I've ordered a few bits that frequently wear out under the nose cone and are easy enough for me to
replace by myself.
I'm also going to replace the CV flange seals and the main input shaft seal.
Another plus is that my Cranky kit bolts straight up to this box so I'll be able to continue using it.
Things are probably going to slow up for a while now, I'm hoping to have the box fitted before new years.
More soon.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 14th, 2011 at 09:20 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
Had to happen, good decision going with the 1800.
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I was hoping later rather than sooner
It's only been in there 2 months, and only done about 10500km
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 16th, 2011 at 06:10 PM |
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Took my gearbox input shaft into one of the local brake places that happens to be into VWs. He was kind enough to allow me to use his lathe to trim
the end down to the correct length for use with the Type 1 engine. Got to love fellow dubbers that are always willing to help out.
I also had a package show up today from Mr Dangerous Dave. Many thanks for the speedy service
And I went down to Repco and rifled through their draws until I found some bushings that I liked. They are off a Ford Fairmont I think they said. Soon
to be 10° transaxle mounts for a Baja Bug I told them!!!
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 16th, 2011 at 06:15 PM |
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Here is the bellhousing after the little clean up it got today at work. It's a shame I'm running on such a tight deadline otherwise I would have
smoothed it and gotten rid of all the casting flash like I did on the calipers.
And now all pretty blue!!
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 16th, 2011 at 06:17 PM |
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I pulled the nose cone off the box and removed all of the shiftery bits. I have a new pivot ball and the shim plate ready to be fitted. I also picked
up a new shifter shaft seal today too.
Hoping to maybe get the box back together this weekend
More updates soon.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 18th, 2011 at 10:59 PM |
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I installed a new shifter shaft seal in the nosecone.
And fitted a new swivel ball to the linkage. Plenty of grease.
Here's all the bits greased and reassembled. Ready to fit the shim plate and nosecone.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 18th, 2011 at 11:02 PM |
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I reassembled the thowout arm back into the bellhousing and fitted it to the box. You can also see the cut down input shaft.
I also put new output flange seals and seal caps.
Box is ready to fit 
This was done by about lunchtime yesterday. So I decided to get carried away and rip into the car.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 18th, 2011 at 11:11 PM |
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Didn't take long to go from this...
...to this.
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 18th, 2011 at 11:16 PM |
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You can see in the previous picture that I removed the standard gearbox mounting cradle and just left the crossmember that I built in place. This will
stop the framehorns from moving around. I'm going to fabricate my own 10° Kombi gearbox mount that will be welded to the top of the horns.
I sat the box in place to see how much clearancing would be required to get the box to fit.
Going to have to trim the framehorns where they are spotwelded together.
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 18th, 2011 at 11:21 PM |
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The framehorns got trimmed down and then seam welded.
I also cut the factory front mount off the pan.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 18th, 2011 at 11:26 PM |
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You can now see the gearbox isn't sitting up on the framehorns anymore. It fits in between them and is resting on the two CV output flanges. I took a
lot of measurements of where the CVs were located before I took the old box out so I can get the new one in the same location. But I found if I move
the box back by 10mm I don't have to trim the shift rod at all. This also gives me a little more room for the clutch and accelerator cables to come
pass the box on the LHS.
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 18th, 2011 at 11:29 PM |
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One issue I did have was the reversing switch had no clearance to the framehorn and was contacting. I have my reverse light on a switch on the dash
anyway, so I decided to cut the terminals and plastic switch housing off. I then removed the plunger from the inside and filled the hole left in the
plug with silicon.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 18th, 2011 at 11:38 PM |
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Time to start fabricating a new front transaxle mount. Using those EA Falcon front suspension bushes.
First make one of these to suit your Kombi mounting holes.
Then separate these.
Make some more plates with holes in them.
And voilà! Ready for welding. Make sure you remove the bushes after you tack the pieces in place. Otherwise they get a little melty.
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 18th, 2011 at 11:43 PM |
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I cleaned about a kilo of sand each out of the clutch and accelerator bowden tubes. And I fitted the box for about the millionth time to check
clearances. I wanted to make sure that the bowden tube was going to have a nice bend in it and not run into the box too much. I'm happy to report
that with the gearbox location I've chosen the stock Beetle tube is the perfect length and has the right bend in it and everything.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 18th, 2011 at 11:46 PM |
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Last little update for tonight.
I go the last of the front gearbox mount fabbed up and welded onto the torsion tube. I'm happy to report that is works as it should and the box is in
the right spot.
Now I just need to make up the rear mounts tomorrow afternoon and machine my axles to take a Type 2 CV on the inner side.
More updates as they come, thanks for reading.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on December 19th, 2011 at 05:12 AM |
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Nice work dude!
Just a tip on fitting the kombi CVs.
Dont machine the axles, it weakens them.
Counterbore the CV inner race enough to get your circlips on.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on December 19th, 2011 at 10:31 AM |
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How friggen brilliant is that! Very happy to hear Daniel. Very
tidy work. that mount looks like a very clean installation, mine was a bit of a mutilation job but did the trick. With your mount setup, because it
looks pretty robust will you need to have a gearbox strap?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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Bone
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| posted on December 19th, 2011 at 11:13 AM |
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Thanks Dangerous for this tip as I was about to get the axles machined and will now do this instead.
BTY Dan , (pardon my ignorance) why do you fit the shim to the gearbox ?
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 19th, 2011 at 07:57 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dangerous
Nice work dude!
Just a tip on fitting the kombi CVs.
Dont machine the axles, it weakens them.
Counterbore the CV inner race enough to get your circlips on.
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Do you machine on the inside (flange side) or outside (axle side of the inner CV piece? Or an even amount into both sides?
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 19th, 2011 at 08:02 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bone
Thanks Dangerous for this tip as I was about to get the axles machined and will now do this instead.
BTY Daniel , (pardon my ignorance) why do you fit the shim to the gearbox ?
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Dangerous Dave can probably explain it a lot better than I can (he recommended I fit one)
But from my understanding it just ensures your mainshaft bearings are held down into the intermediate housing. This eliminates some play from the
input shaft and if there is any wear on your nosecone takes that play out too. Dave suggested I fit one as well as the swiveling ball that the hockey
stick piece goes into, as these are easy enough pieces to fit at home to improve the shift quality of an older box.
Dangerous, if I've explained this completely wrong could you please correct me for those playing at home??
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 19th, 2011 at 08:44 PM |
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Didn't get much done this afternoon.
I bolted the box in with the front mount in place and am happy to report that it shifts into all gears with easy. And I didn't have to modify the
shift rod length one bit.
I started to make up some cardboard templates for the rear mounts. The bushes are going to mount directly above the framehorns.
I'm hoping to get these made up tomorrow afternoon and then I can start sorting out my CVs and axles.
I'm also picking up the prototype caliper brackets from the metalshop tomorrow. They are getting CNC Plasma cut first thing tomorrow.
More soon
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 19th, 2011 at 10:45 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bajachris88
How friggen brilliant is that! Very happy to hear Daniel. Very
tidy work. that mount looks like a very clean installation, mine was a bit of a mutilation job but did the trick. With your mount setup, because it
looks pretty robust will you need to have a gearbox strap?
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Nope. No plans to run a strap. Wait till you see the rear mounts, they're going to be even better
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 20th, 2011 at 10:52 PM |
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These are the start of the rear mounts. This plate will go in between the crossmember and the framehorn.
Once I get everything sorted out in the correct location I'm going to weld the little plate onto the back of the crossmember.
This is how where the bush is going to sit. The little front plate will be welded to the top of the framehorn.
I started cutting out the pieces that will attach the bellhousing to the top of the mount, but forgot to take pictures. With any luck I'll get these
mounts sorted out and finished tomorrow. It's taking longer than I expected!
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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