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Author: Subject:  Zelda the '73 1303S
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posted on May 10th, 2012 at 10:55 PM



Must be still putting them in...Hurry up Seb!..:lol:
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posted on May 11th, 2012 at 02:15 AM



They are in, just need to take some photos and upload them.
Have to get a wheel alignment at some point today as well.

Until then.




The sold one, '73 VW 1303 - Zelda
The project, '74 VW 1303 - Gretl
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posted on May 11th, 2012 at 12:35 PM



This is gonna be one sweet bug!
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posted on May 12th, 2012 at 11:13 AM



Have decided on the exact colour that I will be painting Zelda's new body once all the work has been done on it.
Painting it a Lamborghini colour called Grigio Telesto. Paint code is PPG *0098.

Very nice colour, have seen it on a 1303 before and have fell in love with the colour.
Here's a preview of what Zelda will look like, colour wise anyway...
http://www.bugster.at/_galerie/p7lsm_img_4/fullsize/horn_2_med_fs.jpg

Taking a couple of photos in the day time today of the nice drop Zelda now has at the front.

Wheel alignment was also done yesterday so she is driving as good as new. Bloke said there isn't a way to adjust camber on the rear of an IRS bug... Is this right or wrong?




The sold one, '73 VW 1303 - Zelda
The project, '74 VW 1303 - Gretl
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posted on May 12th, 2012 at 12:52 PM



Alright, quick happy snap from today.

Happy with the drop, but kinda feeling going down a couple more steps...
Will look at what happens when the new wheels arrive and I also have to get some brakes done for me.
Going to convert Zelda to all disc brakes, will buy blank rotors and get them studded locally.

Before.
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After.
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posted on May 12th, 2012 at 01:16 PM



Yeeeeeeeeeees! Dat colour



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posted on May 12th, 2012 at 01:23 PM



Yes sir, now to find out how much the paint costs that is the next step...

Give it six months and everything will be done.




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posted on May 12th, 2012 at 01:28 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by SebastienPeek
Yes sir, now to find out how much the paint costs that is the next step...


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posted on May 12th, 2012 at 01:57 PM



^^ LOL.

Hate the fact that I now have to wait like, six weeks before my wheels come.
Albeit, gives me time to save for the brakes and tyres...

Have to adjust tappets soon, almost hit 500km's on engine three.




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posted on May 12th, 2012 at 02:27 PM



pretty sure camber is adjustable to a certain point, something to do with rotating the bearing housing on the trailing arm. Joel or someone else in the know will help out here I'm sure.



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posted on May 12th, 2012 at 06:28 PM



Is that the remnants of a whitewall flapper still stuck between the tyre and rim?
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posted on May 12th, 2012 at 06:32 PM



Sure is ;)
I'm seriously not concerned about the current look of Zelda. I am thinking, couldn't get much worse, the roof is screwed as is and she just looks hilarious.

But, when the wheels come and the new body is done, then I'll be taking the utmost care of her appearance that is for sure.




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posted on May 13th, 2012 at 07:49 AM



PM Sent.



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posted on May 13th, 2012 at 08:53 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Special Air Service
pretty sure camber is adjustable to a certain point, something to do with rotating the bearing housing on the trailing arm. Joel or someone else in the know will help out here I'm sure.



There's no adjustment as such but you can tweak with it slightly by loosening the spring plate bolts and moving the trailing arm in a sort of scissor movement up and down.

You just have to avoid moving it front to back and upsetting the toe in/out settings.
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posted on May 13th, 2012 at 12:20 PM



Dean,
PM replied to!

Joel,
I don't think I'll need to be changing it, but I was just curious because the wheel alignment bloke said that there was no way to adjust it.

Went for a nice cruise last night with a mate in his TA22. Zelda handled like a trooper, but let's just say, I need slotted/vented rotors as soon as possible if I'm going to do hill runs like we did last night. Pulled over to the side of the road because they were feeling a bit spongy. Smelt like absolute shit!
Took it easy the rest of the way down, went to a servo and bought some DOT4 brake fluid and filled her up. Brakes feel much better today that is for sure.

Guess the next step is getting new rotors (going discs on the back too) and getting them studded for 114.3x5. Is it possible to put Nissan brake calipers onto a VW rotor or do I have to install Nissan discs instead of getting VW rotors studded? I want to upgrade my brakes, and I've heard the stock Silvia brake setup is quite a good one, so was wondering if I could transplant a Silvia setup onto Zelda? I'd assume Joel of all people would be able to help out here, but any help would be appreciated!

Got some nice photos last night too, will upload them later.




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The project, '74 VW 1303 - Gretl
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posted on May 13th, 2012 at 07:03 PM



Seb, I have just put honda NSC brakes on my car. I think they are very similar to nissans. It is not as easy as you seem to make out you think it is. First you need hubs made to bolt the disks too. After this you need to work out the offset of the disk to be able to mount the caliper without fouling of the wheel any suspension. Once you do that you then have to built caliper mounts that are strong and at the perfect offset so you caliper is true to the disk rotor.

On top of this it all has to be engineered.
It took me 4weeks of reaserch and testing different disks from all models of 114.5 cars.
Ford are not the only one.

You can use different disks that are within the caliper limits and close to the original disk diameter.
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posted on May 13th, 2012 at 07:31 PM



Unless you're riding the brakes all the way down a hill they shouldnt get hot and fade.
I've really gotta hammer mine hard with some extended spirited driving before they start getting hot.

You really have to be careful when upgrading VW brakes as being RR cars the front to rear bias is crucial.
You put huge big 4 pot calipers on the front and they will wanna just lock up.
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posted on May 13th, 2012 at 10:50 PM



Others will know better ..... but wouldn't the need to top up brake fluid indicate potentially leaky cylinders?



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posted on May 14th, 2012 at 01:25 PM



Heath,
Thanks for all of that, really do appreciate it! I may look into just getting a set done for me (blank VW rotors studded to 114.3x5) as it may be a lot simpler. I may upgrade the caliper though, so will see what I can find. I may even get into contact with Pete from Airkewld and see if he'll do a BAD series brake setup for me but with the aforementioned pattern.

Joel,
Wasn't riding the brakes down, but when I did have them off the other day, I'm pretty sure they are the originals. Had quite a bit of wear on them already and I really should have replaced the brake pads on the calipers while they were off... Ah well, next time I guess!

Dean,
The need to top up brake fluid does indicate that. I do remember a while back my master cylinder leaked a little bit, but didn't think much of it. Will keep an eye on it now however.
I have to admit though, I've had Zelda for almost a year now and I haven't touched the brake fluid since having her. I guess she was due for some as the bottle itself was actually empty!




The sold one, '73 VW 1303 - Zelda
The project, '74 VW 1303 - Gretl
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posted on May 14th, 2012 at 01:55 PM



Just got off the phone with Das Resto Haus, plan is to get blank hubs and cross drilled rotors and build up the brakes myself.
Will the get the hubs studded to the correct pattern and just go from there.

I have six weeks so it isn't a major rush, but would like to get the ball rolling as I get quite bored on the weekends when I'm not doing something to Zelda...




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posted on May 14th, 2012 at 02:03 PM



Have a chat to Richard from VForce Seb..He's a wealth of knowledge when it comes to brake setups/suspension..anything really.Helped me out with my suspension with the wifes car.
I would look at making sure the stock system is up to scratch first.
Non-leaking master/good lines/ full fluid flush/ decent pads and machined or new disks rotors is what I would be looking at first.

Brake upgrades will neccessitate more than just calipers. The front/rear bias can be screwed with and the master cylinder may need upgrading to a bigger bore size. Brakes are best left to the experts like Hopper Stoppers and the like. Get it wrong and you could lose more than just your car in an accident.
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posted on May 14th, 2012 at 02:31 PM



Hey Jason!
Yeah, that's definitely the truth. I might take it down to the local brake specialist and see what he says, like you said, it is best left up to the professionals.
It might be worthy of me actually talking to someone here in Adelaide that actually races VW's... Might be worth taking a look at his brake setup so I can get some ideas.

I do need to get new hubs though, that is something that I definitely need as soon as possible to accommodate the new wheels coming. I guess, making the stock system work appropriately with new hubs would be the best thing to do right now, once that is done, then I can look into upgrading. Just worried me that they were stinking up quite a bit coming back down the Corkscrew and so forth. Got a bit spongy under foot but that's all good now that brake fluid is in and they have cooled down.

Time to focus on the new body though. That is the next thing to tackle! Going to do some cool stuff hopefully, will see what I can do with a 1303 dash and some bits from a Subaru.
:)




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posted on May 14th, 2012 at 03:35 PM



Seb, why don't you speak to adam debiasi and get him to build you a set of brakes. The Ford stud patterned ones he had on his turbo car where cheap to build and would be overkill for your 1915. You should have a think about how you are going to use them and what you want out of them.

I asked a guy at a petrol station one day how his brakes in his NSX performed. He said 'from 300kph to 200kph there pretty average but everything under that there great.
I thought to myself that they should do the trick!

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posted on May 14th, 2012 at 03:46 PM



Yeah, I might give Adam a buzz, but not necessarily doing it because of engine upgrades, for now it is just body work and getting Zelda to look intense.
I'm actually leaning towards a nice 1776cc instead of anything bigger, for now anyway. Got off my P's so I'm hoping that if Zelda is looking good (instead of terrible like she is now), and they see no P's, she won't get jumped on. That's my main concern, if I'm putting big dollars into the body work, well, let's just say she won't ever be parked on the street unless I'm heading into town or something.

Regardless, 300kph to 200kph?! Where in Adelaide is there even a road that he can get up to those speeds? Holy crap!
But, for me, just getting blank hubs and fitting them to the current discs and maybe upgrading the rear to discs as well, that should be enough until I do go insane one day with a Type IV donk. Won't be a while, not for a couple of years anyway.




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posted on May 14th, 2012 at 04:18 PM



Look at Type 3 drums on back and disk on front. Tried and tested with good results and cheap on the wallet.
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posted on May 14th, 2012 at 05:30 PM



Thanks Heath, I might actually investigate that sooner rather than later.
Will be good, just had a couple of mates talk me into doing some crazy stuff interior wise.

Will see what happens!




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posted on May 14th, 2012 at 08:03 PM



Hey Seb.
Have you flushed the brake system yet?The older the brake fluid the lower the boiling point.
Flushes all the cr#p out too.
Don't underestimate the original braking system, either.
New stock drums, discs & linings are not dear and work quite well.
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posted on May 15th, 2012 at 02:24 PM



Hey Phil!
There was actually no brake fluid in the bottle as it was, so I don't know how long it has been like that...
I'm not underestimating it, I just need to change the hubs for the new wheel application.

On a side note, I have been interested in installing a MSD Ignition setup for quite some time.
Can anyone give me any information on how to setup one? What is needed to setup one?
A parts list would be great. From what I am aware of, Zelda will be a daily and once or twice I'll take her around Mallala.

I also have a neat little idea that I want to accomplish. I want to graph in a Subaru dash cluster into a 1303 dash.
Now, the graphing isn't a problem, it's whether or not the dash will actually work. If I get the MSD ignition kit, then the tachometer is sorted.
However, the oil temperature is a little bit of a concern for me. Is it possible to install oil temperature senders into a VW engine? If so, where?
Also, being a new dash cluster from a Subaru, is it needed to be connected to the ECU? Can I just buy a mechanical to electronic adapter to get the speedo working?

I'm going to start working on the interior and new body as soon as possible, would just like to know the above before diving onto the path of getting a Subaru cluster into the dash and then into Zelda... She'll be as modern as possible when I'm done.




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posted on May 15th, 2012 at 03:41 PM



Bah, I remember when I hated the 1303 dash.

Now, a year later, I'm in love with it. Retro fitting other dash clusters are going to be easy as.
Picking up some stuff tomorrow morning and then hopefully Saturday can start cutting up a dash and seeing how it'll fit.
Have to get some expandable foam, fibreglass and some MDF to get everything sorted, will definitely be documenting the dash creation.

Until tomorrow!




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The project, '74 VW 1303 - Gretl
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posted on May 16th, 2012 at 01:36 AM



Have decided to go MSD Ignition. Have contacted Mr Robinson to get some more details about it so I'll see what he says. I guess I get what I pay for and I'm really wanting to get Zelda as perfect as possible in the coming months.

Got to be up early tomorrow morning to head down to Lonsdale to pick up some shiny bits for the interior!
Time to get excited again about more changes to Zelda.




The sold one, '73 VW 1303 - Zelda
The project, '74 VW 1303 - Gretl
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