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 Robo
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| posted on December 31st, 2005 at 07:05 AM |
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So whats everyone up too tonight! Im going down the beach to watch the fireworks on the Gold Coast.
Rob...
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pyr0
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| posted on December 31st, 2005 at 10:31 AM |
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sounds like a good plan to me rob  im having a bbq at a mates house
and watchin the fireworks on the tv :sandrine
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 helbus
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| posted on December 31st, 2005 at 11:37 AM |
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Spa party and BBQ at a friends house. Topless spa! 
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hipichic
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| posted on December 31st, 2005 at 12:09 PM |
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bbq and party at me mums.... :S not terribly exciting, but at least its kid friendly I guess :?
[size=5]Time is a great healer. Unless it's a rash, then you're better off withointment.[/size]
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zac_smits
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| posted on December 31st, 2005 at 12:36 PM |
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are you a kid :P
(we're all kids at heart lol)
i'm going to a mates farm, with my (currently) almost finished enclosure, (will be finished soon)
we're having a big bbq there, partying, some drinking, and probably some rabbit shooting in between
i'm even taking a bottle of absynth for us kiddies lol
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pyr0
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| posted on December 31st, 2005 at 12:47 PM |
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o0o0o rabbit shhotin and drinkin now thats a messy combo 
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Stanley
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| posted on December 31st, 2005 at 07:22 PM |
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SFA
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hipichic
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| posted on January 1st, 2006 at 09:33 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by zac_smits
are you a kid :P
(we're all kids at heart lol)
i'm going to a mates farm, with my (currently) almost finished enclosure, (will be finished soon)
we're having a big bbq there, partying, some drinking, and probably some rabbit shooting in between
i'm even taking a bottle of absynth for us kiddies lol
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LOL!! yeah, big kid.....but I also have two little kids (don't let them know I called them little, or world war 3 will break out!) twas a nice night
for swimming and we did alot of that!!
[size=5]Time is a great healer. Unless it's a rash, then you're better off withointment.[/size]
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zac_smits
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| posted on January 1st, 2006 at 05:38 PM |
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haha the mazda had more mud on it this morning than a ute doing circle work!
i took the mazda into a very muddy field and did a lot of 80km/h sliding lol.
there's still mud stuck to the roof, wheels, and wheel wells. awesome stuff.
apart fom that, we had 2 kegs, vodka, souther comfort, JB rye, 2 orange guns (more than 4m long each!), and 3 paddock bombs.
it was a very very good night heheheh
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Robo
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| posted on January 2nd, 2006 at 06:50 AM |
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Going to Bundy for a few days! Not sure if Pige is too happy about it! I just read an artical in the latest Volksworld. There is a bloke who scored a
hebmuller It was his dream car! He ripped the stock beam out and put a lowered narrowed beam in took the stock wheels off and put some sprintstars on.
And after a few months has now decided to sell it. I cant understand these blokes who get their DREAM car tell the previous owner they will never sell
it and in such a small amount of time move it on. My mind boggles!
Rob...
Rob...
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pyr0
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| posted on January 2nd, 2006 at 09:44 AM |
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not wrong there rob!!!!
well my the partyu i went to ended up at my house and didnt finish until LASTNIGHT !!!!!!! lucky i had a pool cause the tempreture at my house got up
to 45 degrees !??!?!?! so hot !!!!
and now its raining today.....go figure
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zac_smits
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| posted on January 2nd, 2006 at 10:28 AM |
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the temperature in my room was more than that...
(bearing in mind it was only 25deg outside....)
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jenz58
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| posted on January 2nd, 2006 at 10:49 AM |
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pyro sounds like you are in Melbourne??!! We had extremes....NYE was SO hot, then yesterday was raining non stopped morn till nite....a 20 degree drop
in temperature almost.....brrrrr....crazy stuff
By the time we got to the beach Saturday arvo the change had hit...Port Campbell near the 12 Apostles....cool breeze and cloudy....I couldn't believe
it.....but we were staying 20 klm inland at Timboon so it didn't get cool until early morn.....aircon at pub was great as was cold beer:beer
....if you want a quiet NYE go to Timboon...the pub shut before 12 and you wouldn't know the clock had struck midnight....not a sound ....very weird
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pyr0
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| posted on January 2nd, 2006 at 08:15 PM |
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quiet weird or just plain freaky jenz ???!?!?!?!?!?!?
zac are attempting a bewolf setup in ypur room again ? come on man ive told you before if attempting to overclock big time you gotta go water cooled i
know its not as funky as air cooled like the VW's buit computers are different lol
well i get dred locks tomorrow ill make sure i take a before and after pic for ya's all :duh:
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jenz58
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| posted on January 2nd, 2006 at 09:38 PM |
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I'd like to see that
Take pics of the process even better 
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zac_smits
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| posted on January 3rd, 2006 at 03:52 PM |
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nothing to do with computers man...
think laterally...(or horizontally if you prefer hehehe)
[ Edited on 3-1-06 by zac_smits ]
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splittychick
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| posted on January 4th, 2006 at 04:21 PM |
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Merry Christmas & Happy New Year all.I've been to busy & slack when i'm not busy to visit in here!!hope you're all well & i'll catch up soon.
Kafer we booked a flight up to Brissy for dubs by the pub,we're staying with Mel & Graham so hopefully i'll see ya there.
Oh....Snap.....!
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penguin
A.k.a.: Chris
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| posted on January 4th, 2006 at 05:58 PM |
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Hey all,
well a quiet time so far, only one injury to myslef (angle grinder into thumb) so not too bad. Got a set of shelves from 1stcarbug anfd am doing them
up before I set them up in the shed. which leads me to this,
Hellbus: what preperation did you end up doing to your concrete floor? acid wash or just straight paint? I remember you had a post up ages ago but I
cannot find it at the moment and I am looking at paining my drive, paths and garage floor.
on the other stuff, Osama is being driven about by $2.63 and maybe the icelandic one (if she can pry $2.63 out of him) while her car is being
repaired. Elvis is slowly emerging from all the boxes of crap in the garage and will hopefully be worked on again before I head back to work next
week. I believe the body is now finally being touched by the panel beater, so I wait to see what the bills wil be for that when he is finished there!!
'Ah, whatever................'
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on January 4th, 2006 at 06:50 PM |
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Wasn't me that painted any concrete. We haven't got any yet 
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penguin
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| posted on January 4th, 2006 at 07:52 PM |
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bugger,
someone posted a thread on that and I thought it was you 
Damn, okay then, anyone got any suggestions? I have bare concrete, should I acid it first or just paint over it (after cleaning the dirt off of
course)
'Ah, whatever................'
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jenz58
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| posted on January 4th, 2006 at 08:18 PM |
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...I could find the thread in a quick search
Found this on the net
Masonry Paints
Masonry surfaces include stucco, concrete, cement, asbestos shingles, etc. Most masonry paints are latex based; some are acrylic based. Oil-based
paint is not recommended for masonry because of the residual alkalinity in the masonry.
Latex-based masonry paints require a special pretreatment or bonding primer to "tie down" old chalk and dust before application. They dry to a flat
finish.
Rough surfaces should first receive a coat of block filler. Acrylic elastomeric coatings bridge cracks and pinholes to provide the best
waterproofing.
Powdered cement paints, which have a shorter exterior life than latex coatings, must be mixed with water. They can be applied only over a porous
masonry surface such as brick, stucco or concrete, or over surfaces that have been previously coated with this same kind of paint. For proper
adhesion, the old surface must be wetted down thoroughly and the paint applied to the damp surface.
Masonry paint can be waterproof as well as decorative. For best color retention, coat with a good acrylic-Latex paint 30 days after application of a
waterproof masonry paint.
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jenz58
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| posted on January 4th, 2006 at 08:20 PM |
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OK more.....sounds like a big job ahead
Somay Floor Sealing & Coating Products
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING BARE (NON-COATED)
CONCRETE FLOOR SURFACES
PRIOR TO THE APPLICATION OF ANY PAINT OR COATING
1. SAFETY FIRST! Read and follow all label instructions. Workmen should wear non-skid rubber soled boots, chemical resistant gloves, and safety
glasses. Keep the area completely roped off the entire time required for preparation, application, and until the final coat has thoroughly dried and
cured.
2. If the floor surface is soiled or contaminated, clean with a Heavy-Duty, Industrial Strength Cleaner/Degreaser. Apply Cleaner/Degreaser, let sit
for 15 minutes, then scrub with a stiff bristled broom to remove all dirt, oil, grease, etc. If floor is very heavily soiled, use Cleaner/Degreaser
at a greater concentration, and repeat this step as many times as necessary, to be sure the surface is completely clean. Flush thoroughly with clean
water. Remove all water with a squeegee or wet/dry vacuum.
3. Mix one (1) gallon (3.785 L) of Commercial Grade 20% Hydrochloric Acid (Muriatic Acid) with up to one (1) gallon (3.785 L) of water in a plastic
container to get a 10% to 15% concentration of Hydrochloric Acid. One (1) gallon (3.785 L) of this mixture will etch approximately 50 sq. ft. (4.65
sq. m.) of surface area. Apply and spread the solution evenly over the floor surface with a straw broom. Let the solution stand for approx. 3 to 5
minutes, or until all bubbling or fizzing ceases. Then immediately flush away the spent acid. Never let acid dry on the surface.
After the initial acid etching step, check all areas of the surface for appropriate surface texture or profile (like very rough, 80-grit sandpaper)
and proper porosity for coating adhesion by sprinkling water on the bare concrete surface. If the surface is properly etched so the concrete pores
are open, the water will immediately be absorbed into the pores of the concrete without any beading of the water on the surface. If any water beading
or runoff occurs anywhere, you must repeat Step 3 as many times as is necessary, to be sure the entire concrete surface is properly prepared. Failure
to achieve the required concrete surface porosity and rough profile will result in unsatisfactory adhesion of any paint or coating to the concrete
surface
4. After the surface has been acid etched, it MUST be neutralized by applying 5% liquid chlorine (i.e. "Clorox" = 5% Sodium Hypochlorite). This
step should kill contaminants in the concrete, such as food enzymes, bacteria, fungus, etc., which can inhibit proper coating adhesion if NOT
completely decontaminated with chlorine. The surface should have a neutral (7 pH) before the application of any paint or coating.
5. Flush thoroughly with clean water. Remove all water with a squeegee or wet/dry vacuum.
6. Allow entire surface area to dry thoroughly; force dry if necessary with fans and/or heaters.
New concrete should be allowed to cure for a minimum of 28 days @ 75 F. (23.9 C.) and 50% Relative Humidity before the application of an acid solution
or any paint or coating (however, SOMAY "HYCOTE" 151 Epoxy can be applied to properly prepared, uncured concrete).
Very dense, non-porous or chemically treated concrete that is not made rough and porous by the acid treatment or the presence of laitance (fine white
particles) will require abrasive blasting (e.g. "Blastrac"), sandblasting, abrading or grinding, followed by vacuuming or thorough cleaning, to
assure proper coating adhesion
If the surface has large cracks, gouges, etc., it should be patched with a Concrete Patching Compound, which is allowed to thoroughly cure prior to
the application of any coating. A 100% Solids Epoxy Patching Compound can be used if a 2-component Epoxy or Urethane coating will be used. An
acrylic resin modified concrete patching compound, can be used if a rubber, or acrylic latex coating will be used.
If applying an epoxy (except SOMAY "HYCOTE" 151), rubber, urethane or any other solvent-thinned paint or coating, the surface should be thoroughly
dry. If applying an acrylic "latex" (waterborne) paint, the surface may be damp, but NOT wet.
Paint should be applied ONLY when (A) the ambient temperature, (B) the floor temperature, and (C) the paint or coating are all between 50 F. (10 C.)
and 80 F. (26.7 C.) and the relative humidity is 75% or below. It is better to work in the shade (NOT full sun) so the surface being coated is not so
hot that it acts like a hot pancake griddle, making the liquid coating solidify so fast it does not have an opportunity to penetrate the pores of the
concrete surface to permit proper adhesion of the coating to the surface. If you are going to apply an acrylic latex (waterborne) paint, you can cool
the surface by spraying with cool water just prior to application of the paint.
Do NOT allow the prepared surface to become contaminated between the preparation and application steps ... for example, be sure to wear clean, dry
shoes when walking on the surface area to be coated, and keep it roped off.
When applying the paint, be sure to work the paint into the concrete surface, for example, by brushing the paint back and forth over the concrete
surface, to get the paint to flow into the open pores of the concrete so you will get good adhesion of the paint to the concrete.
Equipment, Tools, Supplies Needed:
Stiff Bristled Broom (to apply Degreaser); Straw Broom (to apply Hydrochloric (Muriatic) Acid)
Squeegee or Wet-Dry Vacuum (to help remove solutions & rinse water)
Large Fan (to help dry surfaces)
2 Plastic Containers - approx. 2-gal. (7.57 L) capacity (to mix water with Acid)
Garden Hose (to flush Degreaser and Acid) and Water Supply
Safety Equipment Needed:
Rubber soled boots or shoes; chemical resistant gloves;
Safety glasses; Rope (to keep people off work areas)
Material Needed (Quantity for each 1,000 sq. ft. (92.9 sq. m.) of surface area)
Heavy Duty Degreaser
20% Hydrochloric Acid (Muriatic Acid) (For Step 3) – 10 gals. (37.85 L)
Chlorine Solution, such as 5% Sodium Hypochlorite (e.g. "Clorox") – 4 gals. (15.14L).
GOOD LUCK
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jenz58
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| posted on January 4th, 2006 at 08:23 PM |
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...oh my you can tell I haven't been at work lately ....back on the puter and not getting anything else done....I'd better keep an eye on the clock
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zac_smits
A.k.a.: Zac
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| posted on January 4th, 2006 at 11:55 PM |
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oo my car now has some LED's inside it mwhahaha...
didn't get the "nos" bottle in today...tomorrow for sure!
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Stanley
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| posted on January 5th, 2006 at 06:40 AM |
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Just get some hydrochloric acid, lile they stick in pools. This cleans and makes smooth concrete slightly rough so the paint will stick.
I did the garage where Sue had her home hair salon 2 years ago and it's still in great condition. The care gets parked on it every night.
Hello to everyone else...down with a bad ear infection at the moment...too much swimming and skiing. 5 more sleeps and back to work....:cry
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jenz58
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| posted on January 5th, 2006 at 11:49 AM |
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Ouch kafer.....ear infections are nasty.....hope not too painful
zac what's the'nos' bottle....are you working on the Type 3....is it the washer bottle??
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penguin
A.k.a.: Chris
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| posted on January 6th, 2006 at 10:47 AM |
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Thanks for that,
guess I will have to look into the acid wash later next month. Decided to paint the floor a grey colour which will hopefully also hide the dirt that
always seems to be everywhere (as well as teh frog poo's - I got green frogs all over the place)
'Ah, whatever................'
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zac_smits
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| posted on January 6th, 2006 at 11:13 AM |
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hahah jen
nos as in nitrous oxide :P
like a ricer :P...but my 'neons' are in and wired, with a green light switch in the dash, and a fire extinguisher (soon to be NOS bottle) is
mounted in front of the passenger seat.
ii'll take a photo of my car that all this is in for you guys..(91 mazda stationwagon lol)
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jenz58
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| posted on January 6th, 2006 at 10:16 PM |
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Oh!! :duh
Silly me 
I only know one kinda nos 
....so zac are you going to cruise up and down Chapel St? :P
Only kidding 
Where is everyone....I bet they all come back when I'm back at work and too putered out to log on :jesus
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zac_smits
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| posted on January 6th, 2006 at 11:10 PM |
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of course jen :P
me and all my imaginary friends :P
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