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 Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 07:46 PM |
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Ok. So I ran into a little issue today with Alyce. Went to start her and the engine wouldn't turn over, turns out to be hydraulically locked. The
engine has filled up with water in the heavy rain that we had this morning. No biggy, dropped the oil/water and replaced. Pulled the plugs out and
turned the engine over to blow the water out of the cylinder.
I also dried and refitted the plugs. But now the poor thing won't start. Turns over fine but only sounds like it's firing on one cylinder every once
in a while. I've checked all the plugs by removing them and checking for spark by earthing them against the exhaust with someone turning the engine
over. All plugs have spark. The Dissy cap is dry on the inside and I'm running electronic points. The coil is mounted up on the firewall so it's dry
too.
Any ideas?
Also, as far as I can tell the water got in through the breather filter here.
The carbies and well covered and were dry so it's not getting in there. The breather is the only other spot.
It's not quite completely covered by the engine scoop.
I've never been terribly happy with the breather system and have been looking to upgrade it for a little while now.
I'm thinking of welding a fitting into each rocker cover at the back here somewhere.
Then running a hose up into the base of the air cleaner. On the RHS I'll fit a T fitting and run a hose to it instead of the little filter.
And then the same on the left into the LHS air cleaner base.
Just a few questions, roughly what size hose should I be running for the breather system. Is 1/2" big enough.
And if I fit something along the lines of what I have described above can I do away with the little duck bill valve on the end of the breather tube? I
only see this as a place for contamination to enter the engine mud/sand/dust etc.
Surely with the valve covers breathing this won't be required?
PS engine is a 2054cc
Thanks for looking.
Smiley 
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 matberry
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 07:56 PM |
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I think most of your water would have got in through the air filters. The gutters aim straight for them in a baja, so inverted hats are the go to stop
the problem. But a breather upgrade s also necessary IMO. Loose the lower stock tube as thats no good for an offroader, and plumb two or preferably 3,
1/2" or bigger lines to a tank. plumbing to both air filters is up to the individual.....there are pro's and con's
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Smiley
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 08:00 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by nils
Great day out by the looks again smiley! always amazes me how well the old vw goes up hill. Hope to see you out stockton some time, on the sand
hills vw's make the 4wd guys look like chumps
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I would love to get down to Stockton at some stage. Probably won't be until next year now, unless I can find time later this year.
Are you going to be at Dubs by the Pub again this year? Or are you still out in the middle of whoop whoop? I'm planning on driving down for it.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by nils
Thnaks for that info on the spindles btw smiley, made a rig up today using my highift to pull these spindles apart. Still no luck but will let them
soak in WD for awhile longer and cycle them though hot and cold a few more times
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Looks like you're all over it. The only thing that I can say is that in my experience WD40 isn't a very good penetrating fluid. There are better
products out there, so if you're still having dramas you might want to try something else. We use a product at work called Rost Off, and it works
very well.
Smiley
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matberry
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 08:01 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
Not a bad idea. What brand is the handle that you're running and where'd you pick it up from???
Smiley
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I went with Jamar from Vee Dub Parts Unlimited.
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Smiley
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 08:03 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
I think most of your water would have got in through the air filters. The gutters aim straight for them in a baja, so inverted hats are the go to stop
the problem.
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What are these inverted hats of which you speak?
| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
plumbing to both air filters is up to the individual.....there are pro's and con's
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Do tell me more 
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 08:05 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberryI went with Jamar from Vee Dub Parts Unlimited.
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So is this just fitted in line with your normal brake hardline. Then you just run two lines to the rear brakes from the turning brake assembly?
Smiley
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matberry
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 08:17 PM |
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'Inverted hat' may have given you the wrong idea, imagine a 4 liter icecream tub upside down over the top of your air filters, The air has to go up
hill only, so your airfilters stay marginally cleaner but importantly they keep the water out. You could get spun alloy or f/glass or make some
yourself or find a nice s/s bowl at K Mart that fits your air filters nicely. Theyneed to be slightly longer on the sides and have a side clearance of
say 15-30mm.
Venting crankcase breather to air filters.....
Pro's
Positive vacuum tends to reduce oil leaks and be an effective breather volumetrically
Engine consumes vapours...green
Con's
Air filters suffer from oil contamination
Lowers effective octane......reduces engine power
I don't usually recommend it due to the last point.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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matberry
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 08:25 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
So is this just fitted in line with your normal brake hardline. Then you just run two lines to the rear brakes from the turning brake assembly?
Smiley
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Yep, I used two residual pressure valves after the turning brake in each line. All std VW hard lines are used, you just need to get 2 or 3 extra rear
outboard hard lines and another tee. The Tees become joiners that give you a location for the RP valves and an extra brake light in each circuit. That
way, even when the turning brake is used, the brake lights work and it goes midway in the line so mounted down at the pan out of harms way. A super
bitch to bleed though
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Smiley
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 08:36 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
Yep, I used two residual pressure valves after the turning brake in each line. All std VW hard lines are used, you just need to get 2 or 3 extra rear
outboard hard lines and another tee. The Tees become joiners that give you a location for the RP valves and an extra brake light in each circuit. That
way, even when the turning brake is used, the brake lights work and it goes midway in the line so mounted down at the pan out of harms way. A super
bitch to bleed though
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Have you got any pictures to show this. I'm a little confused by the description.
Smiley
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matberry
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 08:37 PM |
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What .... now??
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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Smiley
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 08:38 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
Venting crankcase breather to air filters.....
Pro's
Positive vacuum tends to reduce oil leaks and be an effective breather volumetrically
Engine consumes vapours...green
Con's
Air filters suffer from oil contamination
Lowers effective octane......reduces engine power
I don't usually recommend it due to the last point.
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Surely it doesn't reduce the power by that much though.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 08:43 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
What .... now??
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Does the system get fitted into the factory brake lines?
Or do you fit a second set of hardlines etc for the turning brake?
I always though that you cut the long hardline to the back, fitted the turning brake in here, then ran two hardlines to the back from the turning
brake. Replacing the single line and running to each rear brake.
What do the residual pressure valves do?
Smiley
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matberry
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 09:08 PM |
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Why cut it, then you need to replace it. Remove it from the rear tee and reshape to the turning brake in/center port. Then one line to each rear
brake. The RP valve holds residual pressure in the line to give a better 'pedal'. My turning brakes have a great 'pedal' but the foot brake has
turned to cr@p with a quite low pedal which I'm yet to improve.
I used factory hardlines because of the difficulty of getting the correct properly done VW DIN double inverted flare. I also have oil pressure senders
installed in the Tee's, not brake light switches as planned.
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Smiley
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 09:13 PM |
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I see what you mean by bitch to bleed!!
Redoing the hardlines isn't an issue for me. I recently came into the possession of some lengths of straight stainless steel hardline. so I can just
get them remade with that. And the local brake shop does the correct flare as I've had them make lines for me before.
Thanks so much for sharing your info and pictures. The cogs are already turning in my head 
Smiley
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matberry
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 09:17 PM |
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See how if the RP valves were mounted at the cylinder they would stick out and be easily snaped off by a fat arse or luggage moving or whatever.
Obviously a different cyl or location and everything changes, but that's why I thought the Tees were a good plan. Obviously the lines need to be
secured etc etc
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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Smiley
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 09:23 PM |
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Yes I see. I think hiding them under my backseat would be the plan.
How do you go for room in between the seats? And can you still use you stock handbrake? It looks a little awkward under there.
Smiley
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matberry
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| posted on January 29th, 2012 at 09:30 PM |
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Between the seats is fine and the stock handle is awkward but hey, it also has the above tunnel shift rod to contend with.....
You only use the std hbrake when stationary, the new hydraulic brake is heaps more powerful when at play.
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nils
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| posted on January 30th, 2012 at 11:52 AM |
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My cutting brake actually has a bleed nipple on top to help out with that, but otherwise much the same. Think there is a picture in my thread
somewhere of how mine is setup.
as far as the water is concerned, the breather could use some work, have you concidered just a breather box up under the cowl? Cheap and easy! And i
understand what to keep the water out of that engine (bearings don't
love water) ask me how i know though still longer than a deisel
motor
Quit calling rust patina
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Smiley
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| posted on January 31st, 2012 at 09:29 PM |
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Well I got the old girl running again. Looks like she just needed an extra day to dry out
Too her for a drive and she is running as good as ever, except the clutch has started slipping. No biggy, I have a spare clutch plate at home so I
might pull the engine tomorrow and check that she's not leaking any oil. I have a feeling that the clutch was starting to get worn under specs
though.
And look what else I picked up today!
Breather upgrading parts!
Marked out the locations for the fitting in the rocker covers and filter bases. I'm going to get them brazed in tomorrow at work 
Now I just have to design some sort of hat system to keep the water on the outside of the engine
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on February 2nd, 2012 at 10:23 PM |
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Great news, got all the fittings brazed in today at work.
Unfortunately no pictures cause they are still at work!
Pulled the engine out today to see what the clutch issue was.
No leaks in the engine or gearbox which is good. The bellhousing was actually very dusty, all that offroad action she's been seeing
You can see in the picture that when I undid one of the bottom engine nuts it screwed the stud out too  So I removed the other side too and ran a die nut down all the threads. Then double nut installed
them back into place with some high strength Loctite, that should stop them moving too far
You can see here that the Kennedy Stage One is looking slightly sandblasted 
Always make sure that you mark the pressure plate to the flywheel so it goes back in the same place.
I removed the old clutch and measured the thickness, it was just under 8mm, about 7.9mm. What is the acceptable minimum thickness for a clutch plate?
I think I remember someone saying that if you can fit an 8mm spanner over it then it is too worn.
I measured the new plate before I fitted it and it was 9mm. This doesn't seem like a huge amount more than the old one, and the old one still looks
like there is heaps of meat on it.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on February 2nd, 2012 at 10:40 PM |
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While I had the engine out I decided that there was plenty of room to try and fit the loom for my Christmas present through the pillar.
It's an air/fuel ratio gauge!!!
After about 6000 attempts to push a length of Mig wire through the pillars and roof section I finally had success. I'm putting it through my RHS
pillars/roof. On the LHS I have my main loom, 1x length of 5 wire trailer cable, and 2x coaxial cables (one for the 2-way and one for the stereo) And
in the RHS I have a length of heavy twincore for my spotlights and a length of 7 wire trailer cable. So it was a tight fit pulling the wiring harness
for the gauge through. But it got there eventually. I don't think I'm going to be able to run anything else through those pillars!! Most of the
wires on the trailer cables are currently unused, I have them as spares for any accessories/gauges etc that I want to fit later on.
The air/fuel gauge was ordered with the 8ft loom, which is the longest available from the supplier. There is a very large plug on the engine end which
attaches to the 3-wire loom on the heated oxygen sensor that goes into the exhaust. Fortunately the plug on the gauge end is very small so it would
fit through the car. I had to pull the loom through from the engine bay. Dad kept telling me that it wasn't going to be long enough. But what do you
know, it's the perfect length. With the large plug pulled up as far as it goes there is just enough poking out the other end for me to plug the loom
from the gauge onto.
This is the oxy sensor plugged in.
Here you can see the large plug as far in as it would go.
And the other end. The small plug is wrapped in the green tape where I attached it to the Mig wire. It's just poking out behind the bonnet hinge. If
the middle piece of loom was 5cm shorter there's no way it would have been long enough.
So I'm very happy with the fit and quality of the gauge so far. Now I just need to make room on my dash somewhere to fit the gauge
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on February 4th, 2012 at 09:17 PM |
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I bought the rocker covers and air filter bases home from work yesterday before giving them quick coat of paint and fitting them to the car. While I
had them out I did a valve set on the car, it's due in about 90 miles anyway.
I managed to get a hold of a 0.001" feeler gauge from work. Because I have chromoly pushrods the valves are meant to be set a 0 lash. I wasn't super
keen on this so I've been setting them at 0.002" and now that I have the thinner feeler I'll be setting them to 0.001"
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on February 4th, 2012 at 09:23 PM |
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Unfortunately when I pulled then aircleaner bases off one of the sealing gaskets got ripped. So I went and got some cork and made a pair of new
ones.
And here is the LHS breather hose fitted up. It's quite close to the exhaust but I tried to give it as much clearance with the space I had available.
I had to bent the tinware in slightly with a hammer. Next time it is off I'll clearance it properly.
I'm going to keep an eye on the hoses, I hope the heat doesn't affect them too much.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on February 4th, 2012 at 09:29 PM |
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And here is the RHS.
This is how I set it up to begin with.
But I also thought the hose was too close to the exhaust. So I shortened up the one that runs to the oil filler to pull the hose across away from the
exhaust. Now it looks like this...
I wasn't long before the car again looked like this....
....and she was ready to hit the beach today for some fun.
Only thing I have to do now is swap my oil filler unit to a later model one that doesn't have the dump hose with the duck bill valve on the end of
it.
More updates soon
Smiley
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on February 5th, 2012 at 01:41 AM |
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Smiley,
Looking awesome, I need to do something similar for my breather setup. Quick question though, where'd you get those air filters from?
I need to get me a couple because I need to attach my oil filter to them ASAP.
PM me the details!
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beetleboyjeff
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| posted on February 5th, 2012 at 10:08 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
Smiley,
Looking awesome, I need to do something similar for my breather setup. Quick question though, where'd you get those air filters from?
I need to get me a couple because I need to attach my oil filter to them ASAP.
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I assume you mean you need to attach your oil filler to them.
The air filters are the ones that come with Kadrods. They are available at a lot of the VW shops. Smiley fitted the breather connections to the air
filter base plates. Some Kadron air filter bases do come with a breather connection (usually just for one carb) - mine did.
You don't have Kadrons though do you?
From your ole' mate Jeff
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Smiley
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| posted on February 5th, 2012 at 11:06 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by beetleboyjeff
| Quote: | Originally
posted by SebastienPeek
Smiley,
Looking awesome, I need to do something similar for my breather setup. Quick question though, where'd you get those air filters from?
I need to get me a couple because I need to attach my oil filter to them ASAP.
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I assume you mean you need to attach your oil filler to them.
The air filters are the ones that come with Kadrods. They are available at a lot of the VW shops. Smiley fitted the breather connections to the air
filter base plates. Some Kadron air filter bases do come with a breather connection (usually just for one carb) - mine did.
You don't have Kadrons though do you?
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Yes, as Jeff has said the filters are the same ones that came with my 40mm Kadrons carbies.
The original filter elements that came with it lasted about two months before they had holes in them, bloody EMPI shit
So I've bought aftermarket K&N replacement filters to match my filter bases. All I did was search on here http://www.knfilters.com/ until I found something that suited my needs. The K&N filters are very high quality and have
a million mile warranty, all you do is clean them and reoil them and put them back on the car.
I'm fairly sure from the pictures that you have shown that you have cylinder shaped foam filters on the new carbies? Just get on here and search for
something that suits your application and the space that you have in your engine bay. I'm not sure if you'll be able to find anything with a
breather tube pickup in he bottom. A lot of their products have them as an option, but because the filters you want are a small diameter you don't
have much room to fit a fitting into the bottom of them.
Just get on here and have a look.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/universal.aspx
You want something along the lines of this.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/univ2.aspx?ID=S0012
Then you can just run a small breather filter like the one I had fitted. I went to the improved system because my engine is a lot bigger than stock.
With a stock 1600 that isn't too worn out you should have too many dramas.
That or you can buy Kadrons
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
Posts: 2125
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| posted on February 12th, 2012 at 10:25 PM |
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Well I've had the engine out yet again over the weekend, I might have a crack at the world record soon
On he way home from work the throwout bearing seized. Then the clips fell off the throwout arm. So I drove her home with no clutch pedal, I was
surprised at how easy she is to 'crash' change being a bus box.
Pulled the engine and this is the scene of the crime.
While I was at it I decided to pull the box and do a bit more tidying up of some other bits and pieces.
It wasn't long before she looked like this again, I'm very happy with the gearbox mounts I made. It made pulling the box a breeze.
I diagonal arm pivots had been squeaking annoyingly ever since Tratty got the car dirty when he was up here in January. So I undid the spring plate
bolts, removed the pivot bolts and regreased the everything. I did a little bit of a juggling act with a jack etc to hold the arm so I didn't have to
remove my brake lines or handbrake cables. I also took this opportunity to take one of the two washers that go on the outside of the pivot and move
them to the inside. When I took the car and we did the last wheel alinement the wheels were still a few degrees too far towed in. Even with the spring
plate adjustments as far back as we could get them. So hopefully this will pop things back out a few degrees and straighten the wheels a little
more.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
Posts: 2125
Threads: 110
Registered: October 29th, 2008
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Location: Yeppoon, Central Queensland
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Mood: Synchro'd
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| posted on February 12th, 2012 at 10:35 PM |
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I fitted a new nosecone to body seal before refitting the box ( I forgot this when I did the kombi box conversion  )
I also lubed the mounting bushings before bolting her back in. I replaced the bowden tube because i managed to damage the old one and also lubed the
clutch and accelerator tubes.
When I removed the old bowden tube there were vast quantities of sand and dirt inside. I'm wondering what other people use to keep the crap out of
their cables? I was thinking of going to the wreckers and trying to find some boots to fit off a modern car?
While I had the engine out I rerouted my balance tube for the carbies. It's been flapping around on top of the gearbox for a while now and I new it
was only a matter of time before something damaged it.
So it went from this......
.....to this.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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SebastienPeek
Custom Title Time!
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Location: Melbourne
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| posted on February 12th, 2012 at 10:45 PM |
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Damn Smiley,
You sure do get busy with Alyce every weekend!
It's great to see such a change and I bet it feels great to see the changes and cleanups too!
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