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 TorxKiwi
A.k.a.: Dean Newell
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| posted on May 16th, 2012 at 06:14 AM |
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Post pictures of the work you do on the dash Seb. I'd be interested to see how you go about working on it. I'm still on the 'not a fan' side of
the fence with my dash. Don't quite know how to attack it as a previous owner has stuck the traditional carpet pad on using glue that has eaten away
much of the vinyl.
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey." |
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on May 16th, 2012 at 11:10 AM |
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Ahaha yeah, I know what you mean mate!
Hence the massive disturbance in the force where I am going to hack up one and see what I can do.
Picked it all up this morning, dash cluster surround and fuel tank sender.
Now to figure out all the wiring!
Will post some images up later of all the fancy bits, then comes the fun part of pulling everything apart!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on May 16th, 2012 at 08:16 PM |
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And so it all begins, parts have been purchased, now it's just a matter of getting it all to work appropriately.
As you can see in the image above, I also have the correct fuel sender and wiring loom for the dash, this will definitely make the job a lot easier.
But still a long couple of nights ahead, unless anyone knows anyone that can strip the wiring loom down to a plug and play solution to work with a VW?
Which I highly doubt is the case...
The dash cluster itself is mighty sexy. I can't wait to see it all light up and actually receive the correct information and so forth.
Hopefully Saturday I can mock everything up and start on the custom dash build, we'll see how it all goes!
Close up!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on May 20th, 2012 at 01:02 AM |
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Alrighty, a quick update of today's happenings.
Started to hack up one dash that was already pretty hacked up and got it down to something that could be usable for a nice Porsche VDO gauge dash.
But, it wouldn't have worked for what I needed. So we got another one, that too was in pretty poor quality. But, that didn't matter, because I'm
going t get it all re-skinned and so forth once all the customisation is done to fit the cluster and surround above.
We also adjusted the tappets appropriately today as well and had a huge discussion about what happens next.
There is still some trimming to be done to get everything setup, then need to weld in something for the cluster and surround to attach to.
Everything needs to be removable as well, so taking my time working out what is needed to mount everything.
Tomorrow I'll trim it some more tomorrow and upload some photos, I also need to figure out where the best place to mount everything to is going to
be.
Also, as I have mentioned multiple times now, I've got a shell. Now, obviously I need to start putting it altogether.
I'm pretty sure I've got everything on my list that I need to get, but was wondering what people most commonly forget when doing a bare shell
restoration?
From what I'm aware of and what I've documented, I need the following to go from bare shell to functional 1303.
- Blank hubs drilled and studded for 114.3x5.
- Two new pan halves without seat rails.
- Headliner (what else is required for the headliner to be installed?).
- Carpet kit from 1916Baja.
- Full wiring harness.
- Subaru seats mounted appropriately.
- Obviously sanded back, primed by myself and Dave, and then painted professionally. Just need to find where and someone who would do it for a
reasonable price.
There is obviously parts needed to accomplish the above, just need to find prices and compare them. Time to whip out Excel and put together a huge
list of parts and different prices. Not going to worry about the engine for a while now, the current engine is absolutely amazing. Might just get some
Webers for this engine later on and leave it a 1600 for a while, just get the body done.
Until tomorrow. Have to get the dash all trimmed and see what happens with the wiring. Then we are good to go and do the new shell. Would love to hear
from anyone who has done a bare metal restoration to lend me a hand in parts list of what is needed?
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on May 20th, 2012 at 07:47 PM |
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Currently in this current position. I am able to mount the bottom of the dash cluster to original steel behind the dash but I need a metal tab welded
at the top to mount the top of the cluster too.
Once the tab is welded in, I need to figure out how I'm going to get the dash surround mounted and easily removable. At the moment, the cluster
itself is removable so that is good.
Next weekend, Sunday, will see the dash put into the new body to make sure everything is clearing. Then, if that's the case, will continue on with
the build and then go from there.
Sunday I'll also check out the fuel tank sender mounting in the fuel tank and see what goes on there, hopefully it is quite an easy fix and doesn't
require too much effort to fit.
The plan is to finish off the dash, fit it into Zelda's current body and see how everything goes.
Then, complete the new body over a space of however many weeks it takes. Just have to get everything before starting on the new body and don't want
to miss anything.
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Turbo54
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| posted on May 20th, 2012 at 09:22 PM |
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Seb, most important tools is a big bank balance and knowledge.
do it all at once, not in stages. As preparation is the key to a good job you need to really know what you are doing as the rubbing down stage.
Blocking a body back has to be done right especially on a round car like a beetle or you will get block marks.
Personally Seb, if I was in your shoes and haven't done it before and am painting my car in that dark lambo colour, I would pay for someone to do it
all.
Track down Paul Roberts here in SA. RetroResto on here. Ask him to do it for you and just pay for it.
T54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on May 20th, 2012 at 09:35 PM |
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Hey Heath!
As for the painting side of things, I'll be doing all the prep work with David, he is definitely a bundle of knowledge and knows what he is doing!
I will, however, will be getting the paint done by someone else. Mum's cousin's husband is a hot rod restorer and is keeping his eyes out for
someone that can paint the body for me if I do all the prep work and so forth myself. Will try and document as much as possible when it comes to
it.
Just a matter of time Heath, I'm sort of thinking Zelda will be off the road for ~four months. But boy will it be worth it in the end, I'll have the
bug that I want and it'll be shmexy.
But first on my list is wheels and dash, then from there we go forward. Getting very excited about the progression so far and I am learning so much
about everything as possible.
Time will tell, and until next weekend I won't be able to do much but plan.
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snitz
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| posted on May 20th, 2012 at 10:28 PM |
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Turbo54s on the money here..You need someone who ia a competent beater/painter or who has done beetles before..I bought the bonnet that is now on my
wifes car from Paul..Ive seen the super beetle that he was painting (Which has been sold or parted out) and can say his work is killer.I have a couple
of mates who own Panel shops and can honestly tell you that respraying a car can make or break a project and be prepared to pay more than you
budget..cause budgets and paint jobs shouldn't be in the same sentence.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on May 20th, 2012 at 11:05 PM |
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Thanks Jason!
Yeah, David has done his fair share of painting beetles and panel work on them too.
It all starts next weekend when I can get the new body into a workable area and go from there.
Shall be good to get started, but finding out everything that is needed for the full body restoration is quite a big task in itself.
Struggling to get started because as soon as I think of one thing I go through everything needed and then loose what place I was in.
Not good!
I think my plan is to get the dash done, then start on the rust repairs on the new body. Only minor ones from what I can tell, but will find out more
come next Sunday. I then have to figure out whether or not I need widened guards at the rear, do the blocking off of the indicators on the front
guards and fix up the ventless deck lid I have ready. Then to paint. While everything is being painted, I'll be doing the pan halves, then painting
it all in POR15. Once the body is back, go from there.
I have a funny feeling I'll be spending quite a few thousand dollars on her. But the results will be amazing.
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Turbo54
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| posted on May 21st, 2012 at 07:50 AM |
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Seb,
Not to put down your enthusiasm as you seem into it but don't tunnel vision your way into thinking you are going to save money doing something like
this yourself.
The time it takes for a panel / paint guy to rectify any issues with the work you have done will cost you.
3 of my mates are top class painters and have done show and drag cars and will not lay paint on anything they haven't done the prep on. You will find
this with most of them.
I was like you with my first car, a 180B SSS and it turned out real nice... but it most likely cost me 3-4K more than it should of with all the
sanding and fixing and refixing. Seriously look into having it done by someone who knows what they are doing from start to finished. You might be
surprised and have $$$ left over for all the other bits on here you have mentioned.
My 54 has cost this much so far and you can see the pics on here:
Body strip soda - $700
Panel work is at $45p/hr. This includes making coffee, toilet, cleaning guns etc.
We estimate that it is going to take around 60-90hrs.
Paint cost me $1200. Hi fill + glasurit 2pac + hardeners etc.
I still don't know how much it is going to be to lay the paint on yet but most likely around the 2K mark
Hope this helps
T54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on May 21st, 2012 at 09:47 AM |
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Hey Heath!
You have definitely proven your point. I think what you're saying is definitely worth listening to and I think the plan will be to get someone else
to do it.
I want to do it right once and not have any problems along the way. So I think you're right in saying that I should get a professional to do the
preparation and paint.
Will see what happens.
Thanks again!
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on May 21st, 2012 at 07:52 PM |
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Plan of attack is the following.
Sunday we get the body into the correct position to do the rust fixes. From what I've been told and I will most likely witness on Sunday, the body is
very straight. This will also include getting the mock up of the car alarm and central locking system mocked up as well as the dash board I'm
building. From there we'll get the holes and mounting positions sorted and start body work. All the body work (rust fixes and so forth) will be done
before sending the shell to be soda blasted and etch primed by someone else. From there, whatever imperfections that come up will be fixed and then
we'll be doing the final preparation work on the body.
Going to be getting all the chrome powder coated a gloss black so everything will be blacked out except for the lips of the wheels.
Time to start collecting more parts as well. Going to do some very cool electrics and hopefully build something that, well, is different to anything
before.
I guess I want to do something that isn't the normal and with what is planned, that's definitely what is going to happen...
Until Sunday.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on May 24th, 2012 at 02:35 PM |
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Car alarm and central locking kit arrived today.
Hopefully the Skydrive GPS Antenna from Classic Gauges arrives tomorrow ready for the dash...
Killed two birds with one stone with the GPS Antenna. Not only is it accurate, but it already is the correct output for the Subaru dash cluster that
I'm retro fitting.
Just a matter of getting the voltage down with a regulator.
Have also started my spreadsheet of all the parts needed. It is crazy, I think I have a good chunk of the stuff sorted out, but want to get the body
soda blasted before ordering any of the parts just yet.
Really excited for Sunday, just not so excited about the weather.
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Lucky Phil
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| posted on May 24th, 2012 at 08:16 PM |
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Hey Zeb.
I know you were after a couple of these.
Picked them up yesterday from Paul at volksfactory.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on May 24th, 2012 at 11:26 PM |
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Nice one Phil!
I've got them in an order ready to go from West Coast Metric, just need to make sure there isn't any other seals I've forgotten in it and then
it's good to go.
Really hope this weather comes down for Sunday...
Driving in the rain without wipers is very, umm, dangerous.
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madness726
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| posted on May 25th, 2012 at 12:32 PM |
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Just catching up on your Post.. And damn sorry to see what happened to your car.. but happy to see it coming back together! good luck
Gotta work on the Nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the Car.
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Turbo54
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| posted on May 26th, 2012 at 12:31 AM |
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SA Fast Blast for the soda. Tell him Heath sent you. Top bloke and a very good job.
Heath
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on May 26th, 2012 at 06:18 PM |
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Thanks Heath, will do the major fixes first and then get the body soda blasted.
Will make sure to mention you, thanks again!
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peter87
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| posted on May 26th, 2012 at 11:24 PM |
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Hey Seb,
I'm going through the complete rest stages my self at the moment and it's costing a fair bit more than i expected, i have rubbed the body back to
metal and etch primed it. I have minimal rust in my shell as the previous owners took awesome care of it. I'm a hopeless welder so i'm getting a guy
just to plug weld a few small holes and repair the rear wheel arches and thats going to cost around 600 alone .The shell has been taken of the chassis
so it's a lot easier to work with. I still have to spray putty and 2 pac prime the car and body work the guards. I have the help of a restorer so
it's a lot easier for me and my paint job is only setting me back 1500 in total. I'm thinking of going a lighter colour than gun metal grey and was
thinking custom diamond pearl white with a touch of blue.... pretty sure i'm going metallic as well. Anyway good luck with the resto 
Pete
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on May 27th, 2012 at 01:48 AM |
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Hey Peter!
Yeah, I have budgeted all my costs and by doing quite a bit of the work myself I shall be able to keep costs down as well. The only major costs that
I'm going to have are parts, the paint and obviously getting someone to spray the paint. The soda blasting will hopefully be done for a decent
amount, and I figured, why do it more than once then just doing it right the first time? Sunday we will be moving the shell to a more accessible area
and start the work, hopefully get some more of the dash done too as that is a big deal and will set Zelda apart from a lot of other 1303's that is
for sure.
GPS Antenna arrived Friday, but I missed it. Delivered it at 8:31am and I got into work at 8:34am. Missed the guy by three minutes!
Regardless, will get that in my hot and sweaty hands on Monday so that gives me yet another week of work and pay to get up a little bit before the
massive splurge...
But, hoping we can get the dash cluster installed into the dash tomorrow and go from there. A lot of work ahead of me that is for sure.
Just wish I had more time...
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peter87
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| posted on May 27th, 2012 at 03:47 PM |
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same, i just took a week of work to strip the car completely, at the moment i have primed the shell and just geting the rust out of the chassis (thank
god it's only surface rust). hopefully be ready to paint by tonight. Anyway good luck with it all if u need a hand let me know
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on June 10th, 2012 at 12:39 AM |
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Current status.
All wires labeled and ready for the install into the dash for the finalisation of the dash.
Using a GPS antenna called the Skydrive from Classic Instruments. Have taken it for a spin around the block and it works.
Next up is fixing the fuel gauge sender and getting that all working. Need to double the resistance (only using one sender, where the fuel gauge needs
two senders, therefore need to double the resistance for it to work).
Current status of the fuel gauge sender.
Yeah, the current wire is holding it together, but there will be a rod made up to make this finished.
And yes, that is using the original VW sender balls, adapted to the Subaru sender mechanism.
All it needs, as mentioned above, is the resistance doubled. Winning.
Until next time.
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on June 10th, 2012 at 09:29 AM |
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Hi
That gauge bezel looks like it was made for the job, well done.
Steve
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on June 10th, 2012 at 05:52 PM |
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Yep!
Lots of time has gone into it to get it to where it is now.
Lots more to go, will spend more time on the wiring during the week, hopefully get everything sorted by the end of the week!
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Joel
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| posted on June 11th, 2012 at 10:46 AM |
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Clever thinking on the tank sender.
Now you're gonna have to fit a full subi driveline so you can make use of the DCCD, airbag and Rear Diff temp lights and that 8K redline 
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on June 11th, 2012 at 12:26 PM |
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Ahaha thanks Joel!
Was a very intuitive idea from Dave, that is for sure!
Aha yeah, the rear diff temp light can be easily removed (just needs a wire into B4 and then taped over), but the DCCD light and airbag light are
somehow interrelated...
More wiring to go on this week that is for sure!
As for the 8k redline, I don't think that will ever be used, but maybe one day when there is a beefy Type IV engine in Zelda, we might get close to
7.5k!
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Smiley
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| posted on June 11th, 2012 at 04:13 PM |
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Very neat work so far.
And what are you pair talking about! VWs have got a rear diff. And it's quite possible to build a VW engine that will rev to 8k revs 
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Joel
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| posted on June 11th, 2012 at 09:03 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
it's quite possible to build a VW engine that will rev to 8k revs
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be sure to be seated when you see the price tag 
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SebastienPeek
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| posted on June 11th, 2012 at 09:13 PM |
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Yeah, I highly doubt Zelda will be seeing anything with that much power for a very long while that is for sure!
No Subaru drivetrain in Zelda either, might as well buy a Subaru WRX and put the VW emblem on it
But the rear diff light could be adapted for something, just a matter of finding a sender and sender position.
Oh, and with the GPS antenna, I'm going to set it to warn the driver that it is over 100km/h by turning the seat belt light on.
Just for shits and giggles, think it could be fun to see that light pop on.
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Ollie
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| posted on June 12th, 2012 at 12:27 AM |
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Perhaps rear diff light could disappear once the engine has reached a certain temp? Kinda like a warm-up system so you don't thrash it early?
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