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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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posted on October 14th, 2009 at 09:47 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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colonel mustard
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posted on October 14th, 2009 at 10:55 PM |
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man... they are huge!
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Stanley
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posted on October 15th, 2009 at 06:36 AM |
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Don't think that gasket will fit DB...
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OLD-DOG
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posted on October 16th, 2009 at 08:23 AM |
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Dear Dave...I hope you do not loose too much air acceleration when you fit those Rolls Royce Merlin type inlets.Give it plenty of lift so when those
roos go in they can't get out !!! Ross.
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hellbugged
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posted on October 16th, 2009 at 08:25 AM |
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what a life you've got DB!
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063bug
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posted on October 17th, 2009 at 11:10 AM |
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.... just hope the vaccum isn't too great during tuning or you'll disappear down one of those throats...... make sure you strap a surfboard to your
back just in case |
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Stanley
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posted on November 10th, 2009 at 06:44 PM |
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early and late model shock towers for narrowed front ends
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westi
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what the
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posted on November 10th, 2009 at 08:31 PM |
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they look heavy.
down sharon.
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Stanley
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posted on November 11th, 2009 at 06:40 AM |
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they are a bit. Maybe some more lightening required
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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posted on November 13th, 2009 at 09:00 PM |
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Got some chromoly tube from "PERFORMANCE METALS" in Sydney.
And Stanley's lazer cut plates for the ends.
Plan is for link pin beam with ball joint spacing for the frame head.
Link pin stuff is lighter, and can move through its travel with no binding.
Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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matberry
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posted on November 13th, 2009 at 11:44 PM |
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Wow Dave. You making the link pin carrier with the wider spacing too?
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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posted on November 14th, 2009 at 05:12 AM |
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Was not planning to make new link pin carriers Matt,
but now you have me thinking!
Quote: | Originally
posted by dangerous
Got some chromoly tube from "PERFORMANCE METALS" in Sydney.
And Stanley's lazer cut plates for the ends.
Plan is for link pin beam with ball joint spacing for the frame head.
Link pin stuff is lighter, and can move through its travel with no binding.
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Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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matberry
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posted on November 14th, 2009 at 09:45 AM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by dangerous
Was not planning to make new link pin cariersMat,
but now you have me thinking!
If you use the stock carriers Dave, the caster will be changing drasticly through the suspension travel......can't be good IMO.
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Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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posted on November 14th, 2009 at 08:23 PM |
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The caster will change, but will not be drastic.
(1.05 degrees better caster than link pin under full compression).
Stock link pin spacing is 10mm different to the tube spacing, and mine will be 20mm.
Both combinations will improve the caster situation under compression.
This assumes the ride height is set with the trailing arms in their neutral position,
which is where I like to set them.
Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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matberry
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posted on November 14th, 2009 at 11:14 PM |
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Well that sounds very usable, I thought the caster would vary more than that. How much travel are you allowing for with that calculation, maybe your
idea would work for offroad applications too. As you said, the king and link is lighter, but also provides more travel and the widely spaced beam of
the ball joint front end is stronger.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Stanley
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posted on November 15th, 2009 at 06:34 PM |
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they are a nice fit.
Gotta love 3D modeling...
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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posted on November 16th, 2009 at 05:30 AM |
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Yes, the planets are aligning with the 'fit' of both the end plates and bearings,
being soft hammer tight.
Matt, my calcs were done using a total wheel travel of 100mm.
Offroad travel amouts will increase the caster change,
but longer trailing arms so often used in off road aplications will improve this.
Ideally no caster change would be the best option,
but for my own application, no toe change is my greatest concern.
...and at my preferred trailing arm angle there is very little.
Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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Dak-A-Tak
A.k.a.: Peter Page
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posted on November 16th, 2009 at 01:23 PM |
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What car guys , frame head to change as well ? what are or reasons for this ? I can't really see the need as the only time a major toe in change
would be on landing after a huge wheel stand , in which is for a very ,very short time (can all so adjust with straps too for drop out toe in change
). Plus you don't set or car up as a wheelstander anyway .
When you say compression Dave is this under brakes ? If car is wondering under brakes there is other things wrong , rear to high (angle of car to much
) toe in at rear wrong , things worn in front suspension , or even not enough caster on front end .
Like people coming up with new idea's but like to see more , stanley car ( isn't fast enough) but your car is fast but hasn't showed any bad
handling yet (maybe alittle heavy) ?
cheers peter
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Sides
A.k.a.: Dave Sidery
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posted on November 16th, 2009 at 02:37 PM |
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Could it perhaps be a secret plot of DB's to make his drag car able to go round corners ???
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SuperOwen
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posted on November 16th, 2009 at 05:19 PM |
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You may be right, he needs to lose weight up the front to compensate for the added weight of the radiator needed for the TDi conversion......the cats
out of the bag......
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matberry
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posted on November 16th, 2009 at 08:18 PM |
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WOW NEWS FLASH......DB going TDi........
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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posted on November 16th, 2009 at 09:41 PM |
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No boat anchors for me!!
Although I think all road cars should be TDi or electric!
The reason for my tubes being that way, is because my current beam and frame head, is already ball joint.
It is not a new idea, Mike Lawless has been running this exact idea for a few years.
My car handles perfectly,(when on more than one wheel),
but since Stanley was making a new narrowed beam for his car,(tyres rubbing),
I thought I would take advantage of his new found skills with the design of the end plates,
and in exchange, get some thinner wall chromoly tube, and CBB adjusters to make a lighter (and stronger) front beam.
A basic linkpin beam would have been easier,
but since my frame head was already balljoint,
making a whole new beam was less painfull and messy to change over.
Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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posted on January 18th, 2010 at 11:46 AM |
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Been nothing much new to report since the last post,
but I DO have the wheel bars all fixed using Cromoly tube,
and also plan to swap th 1/4 mile trans back in this week.
No going to portland this year, but thanks to those guys that offered a ride and place to stay as a spectator,
but will stay at home.
Spent some time on the CD heads.
Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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posted on January 18th, 2010 at 11:49 AM |
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Roughing out the inlet ports with a 7/8" end mill.(Thanks Dave Stoker for donating the end milling cutter!).
Then use the boring head tilted over to come in from the chamber side.
Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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posted on January 18th, 2010 at 11:53 AM |
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Also used the boring head to rough out the chamber side of the exhaust seat.
...and then about an hour to rough out the remaining material in ONE inlet port.
Just needs minor detailing on this one.
Three more inlets to go...
Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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posted on January 18th, 2010 at 11:55 AM |
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This is a 44 mm inlet valve inside the port.
Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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tassupervee
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That really hurts doesnt it!
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posted on January 18th, 2010 at 12:17 PM |
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Pfff....wont work...not big enough...crap flow....dodgey workmanship...sheesh!.........pffft!
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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STIDUB
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Over it.
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posted on January 18th, 2010 at 03:22 PM |
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FARRRRKKKKKKKKK, so how long till we can test the aerodynamics of the early bug/late bug/super, with kamei spoiler/aeros/ whale tails etc in this wind
tunnel you are creating?
sides told me to look, bastard could of warned me id fall in when i did
nice work DB, hows the heat at yours when your doing these? its stinkin hot in brissy!
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Sides
A.k.a.: Dave Sidery
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posted on January 18th, 2010 at 03:30 PM |
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Forget pigeons or even small children... this new combo will eat low flying aircraft !!!
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI - http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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posted on January 18th, 2010 at 04:21 PM |
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Port is actually a tad smaller than current heads.
Valve is 54mm.
Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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