| [ Total Views: 117206 | Total Replies: 1116 | Thread Id: 85894 ] |
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 1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on January 25th, 2015 at 09:29 AM |
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Hi
I cant see how harmonics can affect wheel hop at low speeds, I've seen front wheel dive cars with different sized axles but these are usually in east
west configurations and I believe that they are designed to reduce torque steer.
Steve
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vlad01
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| posted on January 25th, 2015 at 03:29 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Camo
Glad to see you are not growing up, only older 
Kev
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when I grow up I wanna kid,
we just got a fill in drift car, KE 71 Corolla spirit, Im going to give this drifting caper ago in weeks time, weve already locked the diff, cut the
coils, fitted some of Daves cool wheel colection to it and fitted a Webber
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you'll like this KE70 then. Did have an LS1 in it but getting something a lot better now. 
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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vlad01
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| posted on January 25th, 2015 at 03:40 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi
I cant see how harmonics can affect wheel hop at low speeds, I've seen front wheel dive cars with different sized axles but these are usually in east
west configurations and I believe that they are designed to reduce torque steer.
Steve
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harmonic is just a name for resonance with with multiples of and including primary resonance frequency. Everything that oscillates can be
mathematically described that way including from wheel hop, air ending engine, trees swaying in the wind to light coming from a lamp.
Its just fundamental physics. Everything has a wave function.
even the thread on the tyres resonance as certain frequencies, hence why they squeal when traction breaks.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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psimitar
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| posted on January 25th, 2015 at 10:58 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Subarugears
| Quote: | Originally
posted by psimitar
| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Birdman
I think the IRS commodore guys use asymmetrical axles to stop tramp. As in the axles are NOT round.
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Actually they are asymmetric as is one side is much thicker.
There are kits available for VE commodore onward which are same as chev CTS-V shafts as they were developed for them 1st in the states as it is an
incurable harmonic in that model.
The use of asymmetric shafts is now common place in OEM AWD and RWD ( mostly RWD) designs where suspension and mounting does not solve the oscillation
that is wheel hop.
If it can't be fixed with mounts and suspension bushes, asymmetric shafts are always a great option. certainly cheaper than blowing transmissions up
and cracking metal in places.
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Yup, resonant frequencies and sympathetic harmonics are very destructive in all walks of engineering. Just ask the poor bugger who designed the
millenium walkway in London. Poor sod lost his career over that one.
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Except wheel hop is actually caused by the loading and unloading of the tyre and its contact patch with the road and has nothing to do with harmonics.
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True yes but if such kits have been found to work and aren't just a trendy addition to your vehicle then there surely is merit to the reasoning of
them.
I'm sure Vlad is just trying to help by adding his knowledge and experience for the OP to read and digest.
madness is in the eye of the beholder  |
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Subarugears
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| posted on January 26th, 2015 at 09:00 AM |
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Of course. But a little deeper research would be good, rather than incorrect information. Wheel hop occurs when both tyres lose traction and regain
traction at the same time because of the suspension setup allowing it, rather than ensuring slightly different twisting moments on the left tyre to
the right tyre. This is corrected on those Cadillacs and Commodores by using different axles to ensure the wind up and therefore ability of the
drivetrain to get wheelspin on each tyre is different from left to right. That way one tyre is in wheelspin whilst the other tyre has traction and
wheel hop is eliminated. That's not harmonics.
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vlad01
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| posted on January 26th, 2015 at 12:04 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Subarugears
Of course. But a little deeper research would be good, rather than incorrect information. Wheel hop occurs when both tyres lose traction and regain
traction at the same time because of the suspension setup allowing it, rather than ensuring slightly different twisting moments on the left tyre to
the right tyre. This is corrected on those Cadillacs and Commodores by using different axles to ensure the wind up and therefore ability of the
drivetrain to get wheelspin on each tyre is different from left to right. That way one tyre is in wheelspin whilst the other tyre has traction and
wheel hop is eliminated. That's not harmonics.
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Yes it is. its both sides are oscillating as the same Hz they interfere constructively. Therefore the are in harmony or maybe a better term "in
phase" . Different size on one side like you said changes the resonant frequency and the harmonic between both sides collapse or more accurately
reduced until it doesn't effect, "out of phase" 2 waves interfering destructively. Thats just a simple breakdown but of course in reality there are
many different frequencies involved throughout the whole drive train that all interfere with each other.
Im talking in mathematical terms. its universal so its stands no matter what, don't confuse it with something else what ever that might be.
if you talk about shockers to a shocker manufacture R&D, be prepared to talk about the exact same subject of frequencies and rather complex maths
when taking the rest of the suspension and vehicle. its a lot different to talking about it with your mechanic lol
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Subarugears
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| posted on January 26th, 2015 at 12:53 PM |
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lol.
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1303Steve
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| posted on January 26th, 2015 at 03:38 PM |
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Hi
Most street Beetles don't have wheel hop issues, I need to do some more work to combat it.
I've really beefed the chassis forks up and Im running a home made 3 bar Kafer Cup brace. The forks have 25x50 tube welded around them and the two
diagonal braces should keep the back end solid, no wonder it weighs so much
Steve
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HappyDaze
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| posted on January 26th, 2015 at 04:11 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Subarugears
Of course. But a little deeper research would be good, rather than incorrect information. Wheel hop occurs when both tyres lose traction and regain
traction at the same time because of the suspension setup allowing it, rather than ensuring slightly different twisting moments on the left tyre to
the right tyre. This is corrected on those Cadillacs and Commodores by using different axles to ensure the wind up and therefore ability of the
drivetrain to get wheelspin on each tyre is different from left to right. That way one tyre is in wheelspin whilst the other tyre has traction and
wheel hop is eliminated. That's not harmonics.
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Yes it is. its both sides are oscillating as the same Hz they interfere constructively. Therefore the are in harmony or maybe a better term "in
phase" . Different size on one side like you said changes the resonant frequency and the harmonic between both sides collapse or more accurately
reduced until it doesn't effect, "out of phase" 2 waves interfering destructively. Thats just a simple breakdown but of course in reality there are
many different frequencies involved throughout the whole drive train that all interfere with each other.
Im talking in mathematical terms. its universal so its stands no matter what, don't confuse it with something else what ever that might be.
if you talk about shockers to a shocker manufacture R&D, be prepared to talk about the exact same subject of frequencies and rather complex maths
when taking the rest of the suspension and vehicle. its a lot different to talking about it with your mechanic lol
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Geez, I'm glad I left school when I was 15....otherwise all that stuff would have would have influenced what I have done over the years to correct
'wheel-tramp'.
Like Billy Joel, "The things I didn' know at first, I learned by doing twice"....or three, or more times.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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hellbugged
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| posted on January 26th, 2015 at 06:30 PM |
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Hi Steve
Is it solid or soft mounted and any support mounts off the engine itself? Ie. rear of the bellhousing.
Vote 1 here for a new thread to argue merits of axle sizing.
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1303Steve
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| posted on January 26th, 2015 at 08:16 PM |
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Hi Damo
I'm using the stock Subaru mounts under the motor, an over the top Berg style mid mount, you can see the Kombi mounts in the photo and the stock
Porsche mount at the front of the transmission.
Steve
vote 2
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1303Steve
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| posted on January 31st, 2015 at 10:14 PM |
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Hi
1st part of the quest for more kiloWatts was fitted today, but not without dramas. I've mounted the Zeitronix Ethanol Content Analyser (ECA) gauge to
blind spot in the dash, right behind the steering wheel, I made a bracket to bolt it to the fascia that the tacho/speedo sits in, only problem was
that when I connected the tacho back up again ECA wouldn't work, after much head scratching I finally worked out that the tacho earth was feeding
into the ECA housing, some ECAs I've seen are just mounted in the glove box, but I had a spare space so I thought I would use it.
Interesting the BP 98 I normally use has 2% ethanol content. I can also see fuel temperature by pushing a moment switch on the ECA mounting bracket,
but what you can use this reading for is a mystery. The ECA has two outputs that are sent in a 0-5 volt signal to my ECU so that it can alter fuel and
ignition maps to suit the ethanol content of my fuel
Steve
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1303Steve
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| posted on February 10th, 2015 at 08:00 PM |
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Hi
Tomei pon cams arrived today, thanks to jessestreeter.com
So now that I have everything I started looking deeper into hooking up the ECU to see the flex fuel sensor.
The plug n play Autronic SM4 is showing its age and its not easily configurable to run a flex fuel sensor, I need to fit missing pins into the stock
ECU plugs.
So Haltech do a plug n play but it needs an upgrades MAP sensor as the one fitted only goes to 22 psi, its $1975 + $129 for a 30 psi MAP sensor.
Adaptronic do a e1280s stand alone unit for $1990 that has some better features than both the Haltech and Autronic but it needs to be wired in.
My tuner prefers Adaptronic http://www.adaptronic.com.au/product/e1280s/
So I will need to do some thinking
Steve
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1303Steve
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| posted on February 11th, 2015 at 07:58 PM |
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Hi
all this go faster stuff is making me think about a brake upgrade.
I have 996 rears on the front with 930 rotors which work really well.
I saw some Boxster fronts on eBay and got them at really good price, just sourcing some rotors now.
Steve
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1303Steve
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| posted on February 15th, 2015 at 10:35 AM |
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Hi
I've been rethinking the water line layout for my ice box & intercooler. I only use the ice box for drag racing and tuning on the dyno. I was
sending the ice water to the intercooler radiator at the front of the car after it had been through the intercooler which was was picking up more
heat. With this new arrangement I can recirculate the chilled water in a closed loop which I think should make it last longer
Steve
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1303Steve
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| posted on February 15th, 2015 at 12:05 PM |
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Hi
I've been giving this a lot of thought. Before I fitted the ice box I was running reservoir - pump - radiator - intercooler (at the throttle body
end) - reservoir. After I fitted the ice box I ran reservoir - pump - intercooler (at the throttle body end) - radiator - reservoir. With E85 intake
temps will be less critical
Steve
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1303Steve
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| posted on February 18th, 2015 at 07:12 PM |
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Hi
At the suggestion of Ricola I fitted another tap in the intercooler plumbing to close of the H, so when not in ice cooling mode all of the water goes
to the front cooler.
Bought some more parts for my brake upgrade, some 944 hubs, thanks to Wayne Penrose for these and I bought some DBA front rotors from Tyler at 999
Automotive.
Steve
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1303Steve
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| posted on March 20th, 2015 at 03:34 PM |
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Hi
I had a great 2 days at Powercruise, last Sunday I moved my car out of the garage getting ready to go, I parked it up the hill on my driveway and then
ran inside to do something before I left.
I mustn't have pulled the handbrake on hard enough, my Beetle rolled down the hill and hit my sons Beetle and then crashed into a rock at our front
door, it could have been worse if it had hit a veranda post or could have even gone through the front door
camshaft covers are cracked, damaged exhaust camshaft sprocket, damaged thermostat housing and hose, damaged special Grimmspeed engine exhaust cross
pipe, the body needs both rear mudguards, rear apron, rear bumper and scratched wheel repaired
My sons Beetle needs a mudguard and both front and rear bumpers
Steve
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1303Steve
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| posted on March 20th, 2015 at 03:35 PM |
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So motor is out I might as well get the cams fitted now
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 matberry
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| posted on March 20th, 2015 at 03:38 PM |
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That sux Steve.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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adlbeetle66
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| posted on March 20th, 2015 at 04:14 PM |
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 Hope you get it all sorted Steve.
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1303Steve
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| posted on March 28th, 2015 at 05:12 PM |
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Thanks guys, cars at the panel beater, just waiting for the go ahead from the insurance company, motor is being repaired and the Tomei cams fitted at
the same time.
Just picked up the new front brakes from LMS, exceptional work as usual.
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vlad01
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| posted on March 29th, 2015 at 10:01 AM |
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what are you using for the rear brakes?
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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1303Steve
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| posted on March 29th, 2015 at 03:51 PM |
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rears are 944 rotors with the same model Boxster rear callipers as I now have for the front
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vlad01
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| posted on March 29th, 2015 at 07:28 PM |
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cool, are they relatively a bolt in solution? any track changes by going for such a setup?
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Flintstones
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| posted on March 29th, 2015 at 08:06 PM |
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944 steel trailing arms are identical to Vw trailing arms (exception of one hole for camber adjustment from memory), and the 944 brakes from the steel
arms are a bolt on without mods.
You just need to get a part for the handbrake to work.
Head across the germanlook.net and search there-its been well documented about 15 years ago-ish.
Cheers
D
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vlad01
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| posted on March 29th, 2015 at 08:09 PM |
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cool I'll have a squiz there. Thanks.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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vlad01
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| posted on March 29th, 2015 at 08:12 PM |
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website is broken lol. oh well.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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1303Steve
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| posted on March 30th, 2015 at 11:24 AM |
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Hi
The steel 944 arms are just about identical to late Beetle arms as Dino said, they will give about 25 mm per side track increase, they worked
perfectly on my sons bug with 17x7s with 55ET and fitted under stock 1303 guards
Im using alloy 944 arms on my car, they give about 46 mm per side track increase, my arms are from a 1986 944, later model alloy arms give more track
increase. I recently tried some 15x7 Cookie cutters on the rear of my bug and almost stuck out too far even running Aeros
Steve
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1303Steve
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| posted on April 23rd, 2015 at 09:07 AM |
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Hi
Got my Beetle back from the panel beaters, so I'm putting it all back together again now, fitted up the Boxster front brakes last night, thanks to
bleeding helper Dave I gave the callipers a nice coat of paint and fitted some eBay decals.
Its pretty cool how the 944 grease cap has provision for the Beetle speedo cable drive, I will put a dab of silicone on it to stop water entry
Steve
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