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 modnrod
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| posted on January 3rd, 2013 at 08:15 PM |
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Still rekn you need a string of LEDs around that chimney, just in case it's not noticed.........
Good times for 3 slipping gears. Onya Humpty!
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humpty
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| posted on January 3rd, 2013 at 10:27 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1916baja
where did you get that thing simon??
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A jet boat shop in the US.... Via eBay.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by modnrod
Still rekn you need a string of LEDs around that chimney, just in case it's not noticed.........
Good times for 3 slipping gears. Onya Humpty!
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I'll leave the LED's to you Dave.... But thanks for the props... I'm sure the car will be quick when I get the forward motion bit under control.
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Doug Sweetman
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| posted on January 3rd, 2013 at 11:07 PM |
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Welded fan - one less thing to worry about at 7000rpm. Good idea.
Bugger about the clutch though, least its not a real big deal to change. Hope your rear valance is removable.....
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humpty
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| posted on January 3rd, 2013 at 11:14 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Doug Sweetman
Hope your rear valance is removable.....
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humpty
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| posted on January 4th, 2013 at 02:25 PM |
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Engine is out for the first time in 3 years....
Almost forgot how to do it!!!!
Got to replace the axle gators, pull the PP off the FW and fit the new Stage III KEP PP in there when that arrives... Will change the front seal while
I'm here, and pull the cooling fan off and whack in the BERG welded/balanced fan....
Also... Reub was over this morning, and we pulled the body of the 'new' pan.... And he started on stripping the suspension off that... Will prolly
have that finished tomorrow, then I'll be ready to make a start on the narrowing and lifting of the torsion housing.
Fun times ahead!
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humpty
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| posted on January 7th, 2013 at 11:42 PM |
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Blatant iPhone plug here...
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humpty
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| posted on January 11th, 2013 at 10:23 PM |
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Started on the new pan today.... Pie cut will be done tomorrow, then it's off with the framehorns!
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Doug Sweetman
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| posted on January 11th, 2013 at 10:55 PM |
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New pan ?
How goes the clutch woes ? Still waiting on bits ?
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humpty
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| posted on January 12th, 2013 at 02:40 AM |
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Like Morgan, I'm building a new purpose built pan for the POS.... On account of the FOLTS 091 transaxle I bought a while back.... It's due to arrive
at the end of the month.... Unlike Morgan I have very little skill, and will prolly make a right cockup of it.... But here goes anyway.
The spec is as follows:
Flat pan the battery tray sections.
Cut all the crap out of the tunnel and close up all the non-essential holes.
FOLTS spec 091 transaxle with FOLTS spool and axles, with turbo spec gears.
Pie cut the frame head.
Torsion lift 75mm using DLX torsion lift plates.
Torsion narrowing to suit the FOLTS axles (3" per side).
Solid bus mounts from DLX Ironworks.
JCL springplate retainers.
Sway-Away springplates.
A steering brake will be plumbed in to use as a burnout/staging brake.
Most likely fit a hydralic clutch setup too.
And finally.... Most likely a cage from Westi.
In the meantime.... I'm waiting on the clutch to arrive.... I have fitted the BERG cooling fan and cleaned my shed!
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essex
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| posted on January 12th, 2013 at 06:50 AM |
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Good luck Simon, sounds good.
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humpty
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| posted on January 12th, 2013 at 09:29 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by essex
Good luck Simon, sounds good.
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Cheers Barry....
Back in the shed this morning.... Wanna have the pan completely clean today (stripped it yesterday), then it's on to marking the pie cut.
Fun times!
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 matberry
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| posted on January 12th, 2013 at 10:07 AM |
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Sounds like your enthusiastic Simon....power on dude.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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Stanley
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| posted on January 12th, 2013 at 10:11 AM |
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God speed Humpty....we want pics too
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humpty
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| posted on January 12th, 2013 at 10:37 PM |
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Made a start on the new pan today....
Took 6 hours to clean it up, then I rolled it into the shed....
Then I started cuttin on stuff!
Then I cut the framehead for more caster....
Pulled the shift rod, and opened up the front inspection plate... Tomorrow's jobs are to pull the rest of the stuff from inside the tunnel and weld
up the pie cut.... Then is onto the torsion housing chop, chop!
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humpty
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| posted on January 13th, 2013 at 10:23 PM |
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Got a question for Dave B if he's watching..... I'm thinking of running a hydralic throwout bearing inside the 091 transaxle.... Actioned by a MC
that will be mounted much like Henry's setup in his car.... If I remember correctly, that sort of TO is what you have in your car correct?... If you
don't mind me asking, how is it mounted and hooked up?
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whathaveidone
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| posted on January 14th, 2013 at 01:24 PM |
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Bout time you started chop chop instead of think think
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humpty
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| posted on January 19th, 2013 at 05:30 PM |
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Ooops!
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dangerous
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| posted on January 19th, 2013 at 06:50 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by humpty
Got a question for Dave B if he's watching..... I'm thinking of running a hydralic throwout bearing inside the 091 transaxle.... Actioned by a MC
that will be mounted much like Henry's setup in his car.... If I remember correctly, that sort of TO is what you have in your car correct?... If you
don't mind me asking, how is it mounted and hooked up?
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I still run cable on mine Simon.
That Saab TO bearing was for the 930 trans.
The VW bells are too shallow for that style.
I am sure something custom could be made, but I like a simple cable my self.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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humpty
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| posted on January 19th, 2013 at 10:14 PM |
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Cheers Dave.... The hydralic clutch management systems that are out there, are very attractive options.... Still not sure which way I'll go, but
it's worth waying it all up.
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Stanley
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 07:18 AM |
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I agree with DB. Unless you're running some super clutch with a gazillion lbs of force. IMO i'd stick to a cable and spend the money and effort
somwhere else.
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westi
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what the
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 07:42 AM |
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Cable for me 2.
Why does every one cut the rear ends of like this.
Pagey's ,morgs and you.please explain. I can't see why u wouldn't move the tube only.
Or get a secondary tube to relocate and remove yours once done or buy a couple of hym joints and some coil overs and make your tags like in mike
waldrons car. It cheap and easy.
And less chance of fuckin up geometry . And all the tubes for cables are still left in place an un damaged.
If you value you your own time as money people . Check out mikes set up.
I didn't mean to sound mean . I am just amazed that everyone hak's the strongest part of a Vw pan apart.
Nice work though.
down sharon.
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matberry
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 08:32 AM |
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I'm with Westi as above, cable clutch is a no brainer, esay to repair, already in the car and light and reiable.
My first tranny raise in the mid nineties I raised the torsion tube only. The plated verticly method is so wrong from an engineering stand-point I
also can't believe people are doing it. The plate is adding weight and gusseting it to sheet metal in the centre of the tube is creating a highly
stressed area that IMO is unsatisfactory.
Maybe I'm missing something too.
Please explain!
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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westi
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what the
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 09:23 AM |
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Hahahahahahahahahahahhaahaahahahahahahhahhahahaha .
down sharon.
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essex
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 09:58 AM |
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Where do you get to see a pic of Mike's set up?
Have I missed something?
cheers
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modnrod
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 11:56 AM |
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HAHAHA! You tell 'em!
If all you need to do is lower the rear a couple of inches for stability, then why not just buy Hoosier "soft" 23" x 8" on a 13" rim? The
sidewall is the same height as a 26.5x15, so same wrinkle for traction, the 13x7 steel rims are light as crap so less HP used to turn them at the top
end..........
Actually no, don't do that. I'm enjoying the to-and-fro!
Simon, you go right aheead and cut whatever you like, don't listen to the know-it-alls! 
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humpty
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 12:58 PM |
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It's comes down to costs and the effective outcome.... This method has got less than 100 bux in it.... But there is much more to it than that.....
The course of modification action for me was brought on by the purchase of the 091 trans with the FOLTS axles.... Before the purchase of the
transaxle, I had no intension of doing this. But needs must and all that.... For me the primary reason is to get the car down, flat and safe.... I
have seen many a traditional height and suspended car lose it at the top end.... This of course is on account of many factors, not just height, but
what I have noticed is that cars that sit closer to the deck, are near level and have plenty of tunable suspension in both the upward and downward
strokes, tended to be far more stable in all areas of the race...
Sorry Matt, but I can't agree with you there..... Back in the day, that method was common practice I know, but the idea of fitting another torsion
housing on top of the pan was not a good idea IMHO.... The need for extra bracing was higher for starters, but the framehorn position would still need
to be corrected in some manner.... Either with massive trans lifts, or another set of horns, or maybe a RLR style backhalf graft.... All more complex,
more weight, and more hassle.... This method just repositions what is already there.... I had considered going with a 4 bar setup at one point, but
the numbers didn't add up... There is over 500 clams just in the shocks needed to make a 4 bar work.... Then you have the links, rose joints and
material costs.... It's a high dollar option in comparison.... I also want to keep as much of the OG steel in the car because that's I wanted
too.... Difficult to do with 32" long trailing links bolted to the rear of your seat!..... Heck.... I wanted to keep the OG interior in there at one
point, but that is heading for the skip in the name of safety.
The of course we have Modnrods idea of running smaller diameter tyres to get the ride height down.... This is fine on my other sprint/autokana car
where I only use three gears, but not much good on a quarter mile car.... As you know, gear ratios need to be considered.... Being a turbo car, I can
pull longer gears than a similarly capacity NA car.... To take full advantage of that, the tyres diameter is an effective gear ratio multiplier unto
itself.... To achieve the final drive that I require to cross the line at a reasonable rpm/mph/et is in part, dictated by the rolling diameter of the
tyre.
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SuperOwen
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 02:29 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by humpty
but what I have noticed is that cars that sit closer to the deck, are near level and have plenty of tunable suspension in both the upward and downward
strokes, tended to be far more stable in all areas of the race...
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Not trying to be a smartarse but plenty of low and adjustable cars have ended up on their lids. If you're serious you're still going to need good
shocks and suitable torsions.
Otherwise looks good 
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modnrod
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 02:34 PM |
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We're only joking around Mr Hump........
.......and enjoying the show.
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humpty
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 03:12 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SuperOwen
| Quote: | Originally
posted by humpty
but what I have noticed is that cars that sit closer to the deck, are near level and have plenty of tunable suspension in both the upward and downward
strokes, tended to be far more stable in all areas of the race...
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Not trying to be a smartarse but plenty of low and adjustable cars have ended up on their lids. If you're serious you're still going to need good
shocks and suitable torsions.
Otherwise looks good
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Like I said.... There is much more to it than just ride height... The main point behind lowering the car is obvious and I should'nt have to explain
this here... And I wouldn't be doing this if I wasn't serious.... I have the shocks that currently fit into my budget... They are not the best, but
I can't justify blowing wads of cash on components that are currently not required.... The torsions are currently stock, as that is all that I need
now.... The car runs straight and hooks up well.... But as hp and torque increases , so will the upgrades, as with any modified car.
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matberry
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| posted on January 20th, 2013 at 03:29 PM |
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All good Simon (altho I'm for a reloccate, not another torsion tube) I'm glad you don't agree as otherwise you wouldn't be happy with what you've
done
Keep up the good work.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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