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ratty 63
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posted on December 19th, 2003 at 01:13 PM |
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Thanks for those links Jeza - I notice from S1fters thread that he is fitting a Type IV into a bug (with injection) - these engines are a bit wider
than the type 1 engine that I am going to use so perhaps I will not have to do too much in the way of body mods... Damn, I hope my manifold is ready
for me to pick up this arvo...
Just as an aside - my Brother has just fitted his Baja with a 2.1l Porsche fan cooled type IV - features lots of mods (hydralic (?sp) lifters, massive
cam duration, special heads, etc) His plan is to fuel inject this one in the future, but at the moment it is just running the standard carbs so that
he can take part in the beach run on Fraser Island between Xmas and New Year. Looks mad! I will get some pics of it up on my site as soon as I can
catch up with him...
R
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ratty 63
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posted on January 8th, 2004 at 02:18 PM |
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update ..er.. well..sort of..
Hi all,
Been a bit quiet here for a while but things are still happening, albeit slowly.
I havn't recieved my manifold back yet - my friend who was doing it went to Tasmania for Christmas and will be back next week, hopefully
then....
I have spoken to a number of ppl about all sorts of area of EFI and have a number of interesting bits of info...
Temp sender for EFI: have come to the decision that it should be fitted to the heads - it was explained to me that the only reason that the
watercooled vehicles use a water temp reading is because you cant get any closer to the head to get combustion temp, but we can - makes sense to me...
only question now is which sensor to use - any ideas? It was suggested that I should purchase a sensor from an EFI Harly Davidson or a Porsche (can
you say $$$$:o ). Someone else suggested that I use the genuine VW part from either a FI type 3 or Kombi (with FI type IV engine) but from what I
have read, I can't be sure that the sensor will work for the over-temp situation... does anyone know? Even better, has anyone got a graph of the
sensors resistance and different temp readings?
I have finally spoken with the owner of the Hemidore (Commodore with an EFI Hemi motor in it :o ), he is running the ACDelco computer with the
Kalmaker software and thinks that it will easily handle the VW engine, however he suggested sticking with a dissy to distribute the spark for ease of
use - apparently the only 4 cylinder coilpacks that work with the Delco system (for distributorless ignition) have to be imported from the US - not
"off the shelf" enough for me...
OK, thats it for now, I will put the pics of the manifold up as soon as I have it in my hands.
R
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tassupervee
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posted on January 8th, 2004 at 07:26 PM |
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Ratty
You dont need quad coil packs to dizzy spark without a dizzy!
Depending on how many coil trigger outputs on the ECU you plan to use.
One strategy is, if your ecu has 4 trigger outputs, and you you want to get really pedantic and impress your friends is to use 4 bosch 008 triggers
firing 4 seperate coils.
Not cost effective and pretty much wank. 4 coils at 80 odd bucks each and four 008 triggers at about the same (I think)
The best option to do away with a distributor distributing the spark is to use 2 trigger outputs, 2 Bosch 008 triggers and a pair of twin tower
coils.
This arrangement fires 2 plugs at the same time.
Every 4 cylinder motorcycle ever made employs this method and should be the easiest and most cost effective way.
The dizzy is relegated to nothing more that a housing for the crank angle sensor and injection/ignition trigger. It requires no advance mechanism as
this is handled by the ECU so any old fixed dizzy with no advance/retard mechanism will be fine.
You can do away with the dizzy altogether if you wish to run a pair of hall effect triggers that are timed directly off the crank.
hence "crank fired"
This is the gun arrangement but may require a bit of fabrication for the timing disks required and some bracketry for the hall effect sensors.
Most OEM ecu's tend to be triggered by an optical system that will have to be shoehorned into a dizzy.
To my knowledge most aftermarket ECU's have the option of being triggered by optical, hall effect and reluctor (magnetic proximity) timing
sensors.
As far as temp sensors are concerned, apart from some mazda rotor and i think the odd yank GM items (cant comment on kraut items), coolant and air
temp sensors are a generic item and you need to find one that you can attach to your head.
Often the sensors are attached to one of the tinware attaching holes near the inlet port and that will need to be drilled out to accept the sensor you
will need to use.
AFAIK, they do come in a variety of configurations and I am sure thermistors come in a 1/8"BSP threaded fitting amongst many others.
I would make a call to a crowd like EMS, Microtech, Wolfe, Haltech or the like and ask what sensor they reccommend.
Even anything drilled and tapped into the rocker box will work well enough.
It just needs to be as away as possible from the exhaust ports so zorst heat has as little influence on it as possible.
The "coolant" sensor is primarily used for cold running enrichment and the system will run happily enough without it apart from running a
bit shitty when cold if the EGO's are really good on idle and slow run.
Like without the choke and heat risers disconnected on a single carb now!
Your injectors will be pointing directly into the inlet port now and cold running will be far less influenced by cold temps and associated fuel
condensation than when running with a single carb and all that tubing for the fuel to condense out into when cold.
Twin carb krauts will allways run cleaner when cold with less choke that a single carb engine for that reason.
Nice short little inlets facing downwards for the fuel to travel thru and little surface area for the fuel to condense on.
You could even bodge it well enough by bracketing the sensor to the head.
So long as it is influenced by heat from the head, the ECU can be tuned around the temps it is actually seeing rather than exactly what it should
know.
L8tr dude
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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ratty 63
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posted on January 9th, 2004 at 11:44 AM |
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sender location
The pic attached below show where (I am told) the factory temp sender is fitted (in the threaded hole where my finger is) - do you feel that this is
too close to the exhaust port?
Did I you understand correctly, that I could use a temp sender in this location, such as the ones from a coolant temp gauge to 'talk' to the
ECU? Would they have a sufficient temp range?
Thanks
R
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tassupervee
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posted on January 9th, 2004 at 04:21 PM |
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Ummm as far as position is concerned there is no reason why that wont work there altho closer to the inlet would be a better option.
Naw, for whatever reason you cant use a usual coolant temp guage sensor.
Temp guage senders seem to come in a variety of outputs for different make guages and I have never bothered to find out what is different as far as
their actual heat sensing internals are concerned.
Nearly all of these types are grounded to the engine where EFI temp sensors are usually above earth.
It must be a temp. sensor for EFI.
It will have one of those square, 2 pin connectors on it same as on top of an injector.
Apart from some yank GM and some Mazda rotor EFI temp sensors, the rest are all the same so whatever you can find to fit there will do.
Even if you have to make a screw-in brass or aluuminium adaptor to accept a generic sensor this will work just fine in the location you show.
Once again, at bare bones level, the temp sensor in an EFI system is not a lot more than something to tell the ECU when the car is cold.
As outlined by someone else, their system runs fine without it apart from the bit crappy cold running.
However, for a small amount of effort in adapting the temp sensor, you can have a engine that will run happily at -5 Deg with a hard frost and on to
red hot on a 35 Deg day without any bobbles or snorts in between!
Why not is what I say!
L8tr dude
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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bigbruvabob
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posted on January 12th, 2004 at 12:50 PM |
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injection perfection
http://www.injectionperfection.com/ has a complete set up using weber
style throtlebodies fo four cylinders ford injectors and a microtech ecu and tuning tools. they have a full parts and price list and other basic
information. My mate is into fast rotaries (his is turbo rx3,sub 11s) and reckons this stuff is of the best , and price reflects that 2500-00 complete
setup including handpiece etc. notice that ealier on on this thread some one said microtech ecu second hand for 200. Would this require re mapping
still. excuse my ignorance am complete novice:jesus
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tassupervee
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posted on January 12th, 2004 at 01:40 PM |
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Remapping?
Yes more than likely but all Microtech ECU's "should" have a base map in there that was loaded into it when the ECU was first
ordered.
Just depends on what the original car was.
The ECU's can be sent back to Dom at Microtech and have appropriate maps loaded that will start, run and get around ok in the interim, as is the
case with all ECU's
However some broad tuning can be done with the aid of some quiet road, a good mate and a bit of time.
That price is a bit high unless that includes installation and tuning. Still compared with a pair of new Webers, manifolds, linkages, filters and all
the other necessary hardware needed to get up and going, not to mention dyno time, its probably not so scary!
The hardware you mention is really nicely made stuff tho.
Probably aimed as a really high end performance job.
Those installations do look sensational tho and make the basis for a really hi-po setup in the future such as turbo-ing or just a sweet running, mad
looking road weopon!
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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ratty 63
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posted on January 12th, 2004 at 02:50 PM |
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My manifold is back!!
Hi all,
Just got my manifold back from my friend who modified it to accept injectors. Very happy with the result too. My only concern at the moment is if it
will clear the sides of the engine bay in a standard bug - it will be close.... I have a test engine arriving tomorrow (a running, but tired 1600) so
I will bolt it up to that and will do a dummy test fit - I will know more by tomorrow afternoon. I have posted some small pics here and some larger
versions of the same pics on my website.
Tassupervee, Thanks for that info. I am planning on purchasing the necessary parts to do this converstion in the next couple of weeks, so no doubt I
will have a heap of other questions...
bigbruvabob, $2500 seems like a lot of $$$ to spend to do this, whilst I haven't completely added up what this will cost me to do, I am looking
at $1100 for the ECU and software to tune it using a laptop, then I have to buy the FI parts (injectors, throttle body, sensors, pumps, etc) which I
will get second hand whereever possible to help save money. Even with all this, I can't see it costing anywhere near that amount. Is this to
fit to your type IV that you have in the pipeline? If so, you could probably use some of the factory Kombi injection stuff (modified manifolds,
injectors, etc). This is what my bro is planning on doing with his Baja.
R
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tassupervee
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posted on January 12th, 2004 at 08:10 PM |
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heya ratty.
Those goodies are looking good.
What type of injectors are they made for? they look like hosetail types retained by the fuel rail.
What CC are the injectors?
Smaller the better!
L8tr dude
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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MickH
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posted on January 12th, 2004 at 08:32 PM |
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$2500 seems to be a reasonable price for an "bolt on system". I have been quoted up to $4500 depending on what computer I choose to
use.....I have been following this post with some intrest from the beginning and I bet you can't wait to get yours up and running. At the moment
I'm going to buy a CB performance ultra system without their computer as it is a crap idea. I will hopefully end up with either a Microtech or
Wolfe computer as the Motec which I have been given is a lot of overkill. I have not decided wheather I will run batch or sequential injection as yet
cause I couldn't be bothered thinking about it. The system all up including ecu (if I go Microtech with the hand controller) and ALL components
(fuel pump/rails/injectors/sensors etc. etc.) will come in at $2600 Aussie $$$. I could do this a lot cheeper by using the ECU that I already have and
drilling and tapping the boss in the Kadron manifolds and using the injectors from my old Kombi system. I couldn't be bothered and I just
don't have the time. I will save them for another project!!! (wife belts me across the head) It all depends on how many $$ you want to spend.
Your goal is to get a good system for as little $$ as possible and you are definetely going about it the right way!! Eagerly await your systems
completion!!!! Good luck!!!!:bounce
tssnq.com.au
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Jeza
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posted on January 13th, 2004 at 05:45 AM |
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Ratty
Looking good :thumb
I second what Tassupervee asks.....ie what style injectors and what size your thinking?
Using those injector size charts that are floating around the web, I've never come up with figures that make sense- ie I can't find any
injectors small enough- I guess I haven't considered any motorcycle ones though......
I'm also curious to find out where you got your bosses?
Let us know how things fit in the engine bay.
Keep up the great work- it's something I've been wanting to do for ages- maybe I'll at it look again when the cars road worthy!
Cheers
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
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ratty 63
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posted on January 13th, 2004 at 01:54 PM |
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Thanks for the feedback everyone!
OK, I'm going to try to answer all your questions from memory as this reply system doesn't show your replies when the thread gets long, so
here we go...
The injectors shown are standard type III injectors, borrowed from my brothers workshop. I am told that the injectors from a similar sized engine (ie
approx 1.8 - 2.0l) will work fine - so I am planning on using the injectors from a 2.0l Camira motor (dead Camiras are easy to find in the wreckers,
so availability is not a problem). Due to this information I have not looked any further into the injector sizing issue, is there something I have
missed?
The injector bosses were made from scratch by my friend, I feel that they will require some further minor modification before I am going to be 100%
happy with them, however they are a fantastic start.
Getting the engine in and out of the engine bay with the modified manifold looks like it will be a drama, however some simple redesigning of the
mounting block should get around this problem. I have just had a closer look at the depth of the injectors (into the manifold) and I feel that they
will have to be recessed further as the injectors don't appear to be close enough to the inside of the manifold - I will have to check the type
III manifold and see how close the factory made them fit...
OK, I can hear my experimental engine arriving (my brother just left two 31X10.5 size skid marks up my driveway trying to reverse the trailer up to
the garage ), so I will know more in a moment.
Back soon,
R
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tassupervee
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posted on January 13th, 2004 at 05:57 PM |
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Ratty
Good stuff dude.
i am looking forward to seeing how your project progresses.
I may be going down that road some time in the future as i have see mooted that EFI may be introduced to Formula Vee in the near future.
As a matter of interest.
What system are you employing for crank angle and triggering?
Crank mounted triggers or mounting triggers into a dizzy?
L8tr dude
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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nbturbo
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posted on January 13th, 2004 at 08:56 PM |
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Ratty 63
I have just finished for the night.Have spent some time on the FI.Have machined up some injector bosses from 19mm round bar and have experimented with
a Type4 fuel injection manifold.I have cut the pipes off flush with the cast end that bolts up to the head and drilled into the side -just near that
6mm stud used for holding the injector.It looks like I can still shoot fuel straight to the head of the inlet valve and won't have to cut into
the body for clearance issues.I have got some pipe bends for exhaust systems and will weld these back into the cast ends to still have a centre
throttle body.I agree with you about the depth of your injectors-need to drill in a little deeper.I am using Bosch injectors from a 4lt Ford,so got
one of the manifolds that they use to mount injectors and copied everything for mine- so injectors are in the same depth.I will be using the Bakelite
hold down clamps from a Nissan and looks like I can make something to use the original 6mm studs to hold them in.Will keep you posted
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Jeza
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posted on January 14th, 2004 at 07:25 AM |
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Hey everyone
Ratty
Sounds good. May as well start with those injectors- I was going to try EA82T ones as thats what was attached to the FI I had, but I figured
they're likely to be too big- but I havn't tried it yet and the proof would be in the workings- not the theory!!!!
Tassupervee
I had thought about the magna dizzy that everyone comments on being a good fit/ mod for a Beetle. Steve C mentioned his had crank angle sensor etc.
I just can't remember what Magna it came from.
Found it-
"Maybe some answers, the 2.6 Magna EFI dizzy has 2 seperate hall effect sensors, 1 is TDC and the other piston position, so these work well the
Autrinic system Im using and they can be easily fitted too type 1 engines "
Steve's already mentioned it here- page 2.
nbturbo
Hey if you've got any pics you can put up that would add to the very valuable info that this thread now holds- it's almost a "how to
fit FI to an aircooled VW engine for dummies" 
CU
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
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ratty 63
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posted on January 14th, 2004 at 10:59 AM |
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Hi all,
I attempted to fit my new end castings to my test engine yesterday afternoon and came across a few issues:
1. The block that the injectors mount into fouls on the tinwear, not too much of a problem as I can remove sections of the mounting block (there is a
heap of extra material that is not required around the bottom edge), so this appears to be easily rectified. I may even have to remove a small
section of the tinware - but I am attempting not to do this.
2. The injectors will have to be seated further into the mounting block. Again, not too much of a problem as it is just a matter of drilling the
mounting holes in a little further - getting them all the same depth will be the issue, but with a little careful planning....
I may have to remove some of the material on the top of the 'hold down' block - the bit where the studs that hold the injector bracket would
normally be, this block will be too high once the injectors are seated further into the mountings and (this is worth noting) this block will foul on
the sides of the engine bay. If I was to make these again I would change the way in which the injectors are clamped down. (I may draw some pics of
this idea in the future...)
3. This is particular to this engine as it was out of a Baja and was fitted with a High mount exhaust (comes out of the back exhaust port and goes
up, then past the intake manifold ends...
The exhaust is right where the injectors will mount! This too can be fixed by removing this exhaust and fitting a different style of exhaust...just a
pain 
Once these issues are sorted I feel that the manifold will be OK... time will tell.
Tassupervee, I am planning on using a dissy from a JE (2.0 litre) Camira. It is fitted with a crank angle sensor and (apparently) only requires some
minor machining to make it fit into the VW case. This dissy is designed to work with the Delco computer systems (fitted to the JE series Camira).
Once I have the system up and running using the Camira dissy and I am happy with it I will have a closer look at running a distributorless system,
again using a collection of GM parts... I would prefer to run it this way from the start, but one step at a time. (Dissy system less effort to
troubleshoot.)
Just as a matter of interest - my Brother had his Kombi injectors flow tested the other day and the guy who carried out the tests told him that the
Kombi injectors flow better than the Lexus V8 injectors! He couldn't believe it!
I am going to the wreckers now to see what they want to sting me for all the FI stuff from a JE Camira. If its a good price I will post pics
(probably on my web site) of all the stuff, one item at a time, so that dummies like me can identify the parts.
Must go, much to learn....*click*
R
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tassupervee
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posted on January 14th, 2004 at 12:44 PM |
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Yup
Camira EFI uses (ummm on second though, I think) the (pretty much) generic optical triggers or if you like, Crank Angle Sensors (CAS) favoured by most
aftermarket EFI gurus and many OEM installations.
I would be interested in seeing how the guts fit up.
You can certainly use the distributorless HT method tho as the triggers in the dizzy only tell the ECU where the engine is and when to fire No. 1
I cannot remember what ECU you are using but there are preious few ECU's about now that will only have one ignition output.
You just need 2 outputs, 2 Bosch 008 triggers and either 4 seperate coils (wank) or a pair of twin output coils off say a v6 crappydoor.
Bosch make them and they are not really expensive and availble everywhere.
This method does away with the dizzy other than to actually house the CAS.
As the dizzy does not need to have any mechanical advance use one of the old fixed ones and dont bother with crank triggers unless you are after the
last word.
Crank trriggers, unless located in the bellhousing reading off the fly, will be mounted at the pulley end of the engine and will be exposed to damage
from perhaps a dropped spanner blah blah.
To fit them up to the bellhousing seems an awful lot of work just to pull out and loose the dizzy altogether, so the dizzy option housing the CAS is
simple and easy.
It would look flash with a nicely spun aluminium cap in place of the black plastic thingy with the old plug wire terminals!
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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ratty 63
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posted on January 15th, 2004 at 10:22 AM |
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tassupervee,
Thanks for that info, I feel that I will definatly go with a set-up like the one you describe in the future. I would like to mount the crank sensor
in the bell housing rather than on the pully for exactly the reason you describe (the less chance you can damage it accidentally, the better in my
opinion - imagine that you lost a fan belt, could be more trouble than its worth! )
I don't see any reason that this type of set-up wouldn't work using a Delco 808 ECU, but I will double check with the suppliers. If the
crank sensor in the bell housing proves to be too much trouble, the Aluminium cap on the dissy is definatly going to be done!
Had a look around in the wreckers yesterday for a JE Camira to remove the FI system from. Most wreckers in this area have stopped buying Camiras
(they tell me that most people don't fix them anymore, they just sell them to a wreckers if they stop!) I did find one, but they wanted the
entire engine out of it - complete. They have offered to buy another one before the end of the week so that I can get my bits off it on Saturday.
They quoted me around $220 for all the parts I need (I have to take the parts off myself - no problem). Whilst I was looking around I had a quick
look at the N13 Pulsar motors (basically the same as the JE Camera motors) and I couldn't see the difference. When I asked about a price for the
stuff I want from the Pulsars, I was quoted (by a different yard to the first one) over $400 :o - for exactly the same thing (and yes, I had to remove
it too). Important lesson here: always shop around and know exactly what you want before agreeing to pay someone.
The trading post comes out today, I am going to see what I can buy a complete car for today - this may be the cheaper option. Just have to convince
the wife to let me park it on the driveway now...
R
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posted on January 15th, 2004 at 12:05 PM |
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on the subject of a crank trigger in the bellhousing... Late model 1600 beetles come with a sensor mounted in the case pointing at the back of the
flywheel. It was connected to a diagnostic plug. Maybe it would be possible to use this as a crank trigger, depending on what exactly it was?
My V6 has it's crank trigger on the crank, but if it gets broken the ECU just ignores it and uses the distributor sensor instead. And likewise if
the distributor sensor dies the ECU ignores it and uses the crank sensor, it just ends up firing at TDC exhaust and TDC firing. Ah, the array of
features in a modern factory ECU 
PS - I saw the baja exhuast interference problem coming... My baja exhaust almost rubbed on my weber manifolds...
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ratty 63
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posted on January 15th, 2004 at 01:11 PM |
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Hi Wes,
Yes, the some of the 1600 cases were fitted with a diagnostic thingy through into the bell housing. My case is fitted with one of these, however I am
told by a reliable source (my Bro) that diag sensors were only fitted to the last of the late model cases, perhaps making the cases less common...
That said, my 1200 in my 63 bug has a diag plug in it, but the engine no. tells me that it is a very late case (twin oil relief case - in 1200
form!)
Interesting that your V6 can ues both or either - handy addition that!
I had thought about (and discussed) using the hole where the diag sensor goes to fit my CAS, I will have to have a closer look at where on the
flywheel the sensor is 'looking' to know if it will be OK to use.
What do you think of this idea: the Kalmaker website mentions that they fitted a crank angle sensor into a Toyota motor using the flywheel. They
drilled holes in the flywheel at the required positions to simulate the plate that the Holdens use and they report that it works quite well. What do
you think about drilling holes in the flywheel. They are not big holes and they are evenly spaced around the flywheel so they shouldn't cause
too much of a problem...should they? I can post the URL if you would like to see what I mean, just let me know.
As for the exhaust... :bounce :bounce
R
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Baja Wes
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posted on January 15th, 2004 at 03:17 PM |
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if you buy a baja exhaust that uses heater boxes it will basically use stock J tubes and won't have your clearance prob. More money though I
guess 
drilling into the flywheel should be fine, in moderation. I'd just be drilling blind holes, but I don't know how deep they'd have to be
to work. If you drill all the way through you might have clutch material come through the hole and interfere with the sensor.
Here's an interesting quote on an SAE paper written on my V6;
Quote: | Ignition control was
optimized to raise torque in low and high engine speed ranges. First, to improve the control of ignition timing in the high speed range, a new direct
crank-angle- detection method (crank-angle-sensor) was chosen over the conventional method, in which the angle was detected by a distributor attached
to the camshaft. Fig. 15 shows the effect of the crank angle sensor on torque enhancement.
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tassupervee
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posted on January 15th, 2004 at 03:58 PM |
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The advantage of using crank triggering.
You get rid of the train of gears and connection points and reduce timing scatter to a minimum.
However, the ease of adding a timing disk and two hall effect triggers into the dizzy is a hard one to go past!
Shame the bloody starter ring gears dont have 360 teeth Hmmmm?
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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koolkarmakombi
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posted on January 15th, 2004 at 06:09 PM |
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Just a quick note of thanx to TSV and BW plus all others, this is a really interesting read. I have FI plans for the future but its a few years away.
Tech may change by then but the principles wont. Im learning heaps and have much more confidence using FI rather than carbs. I reckon the
beaurocrats will require better emissions in the future than a pair of webers will give.
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tassupervee
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posted on January 15th, 2004 at 09:12 PM |
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Too easy dude

L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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Baja Wes
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posted on January 16th, 2004 at 08:38 AM |
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yeah I did a lot of research into EFI before doing my car, and am glad to share what I have learnt.
Unfortunately I don't have experience with building or tuning a home built or aftermarket system like Tas, Steve Carter and some other guys do.
So I am learning from them too :thumb
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ratty 63
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posted on January 16th, 2004 at 10:18 AM |
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Thanks to all
Yep, it can't be said enough - Thanks to everyone who is taking part in this discussion - your input is not only helping me learn about FI, but
it is also helping me to keep the momentum up, in an attempt to make this system I am building a reality. Thanks to all!
Of course, I'm not at the end yet so please stay tuned 'cos I know I will have thousands of questions in the future (some stupid and some
not-so-stupid!)
R
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tassupervee
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posted on January 16th, 2004 at 11:00 AM |
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M8
When it comes to custom installations and u'r doing it for the first time no question, how ever trivial it may seem be, is ever stupid!!
Any drama you come across and anything overcome will be of help to blokes considering this conversion.
There are plenty of dudes following this thread with interest who may be, or are actually doing the conversion so any tidbits and workarounds will
make their lives a whole lot more hassle free!
Best of luck widdit! :thumb
L8tr
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Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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nbturbo
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posted on January 16th, 2004 at 08:56 PM |
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Another night over.Have finished my injector bosses for one side.This is easier than I thought it was going to be.Pulled off the R.H. Weber and fitted
the new inj.manifold-good fit.Just drilled a 15mm hole into the Type 4 end-elongated it with my air grinder-fitted the boss and pushed some 11mm rod
thru'the middle to check for correct aim-clamped it and hit it with silver solder-piece of piss.Have cut my exhaust bends and will start the
manifold tomorrow. Looks like I can R and R the motor leaving the manifold on and will only have to drop out the injectors-4 screws and the fuel
pipes.
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nbturbo
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posted on January 22nd, 2004 at 12:44 PM |
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Ratty63
You've gone quiet on us-what have you been up to re. FI ? Finished my manifold ends-will mount throttle body flange tonite and injector hold down
clamps. Have ordered some of that flash red hose (57mm ID) to join the 2 ends.
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ratty 63
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posted on January 23rd, 2004 at 12:22 AM |
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#$%@* Gold plated parts...
Hi nbturbo,
Sorry about the lack of info lately, I am still working on it but I am having some trouble locating a 2.0 litre JE Camira that I can remove the
required parts from, without paying new part prices for the stuff.
I rang around a number of wreckers after I checked the Trading Post for suitable cars and came up empty handed. Most did not have JE's in stock
(too old/not enough call for them!), but those that did varied their priced incredibly! I was quoted $220 for everything I need (if I remove it
myself) by a yard that had a JE in stock, but had already sold the engine/fi system from this car. They offered to buy another car just so I could
get what I needed from it, and it would be there by the end of the week... that was two weeks ago and I am still waiting.
I also checked out another yard that claimed to have a couple of JE's in stock, but once I arrived I found two JE's in the back corner - one
burnt out (not of much use!), and the other missing the engine and most of the EFI. The wiring loom was still in this car though and may come in
handy...
Whilst I was there I checked out the N13 Pulsars (they have exactly the same engine/FI system as the JE's). I found one that one of the girls I
work with had sold to the yard, I knew that it used to run before she cooked it when it blew a radiator hose so I felt that this was the perfect
vehicle to remove my parts from. I know that the yard only paid her $150 for the car, but when I asked for an estimate of price for the EFI (if I
removed it), they quoted me over $500!!!! :bounce:cussing Needless to say that the parts are still on the car!
Today I rang around a few more wreckers to see if I could find anyone else that could supply the parts and came across a couple of yards with
JE's in stock. Both these wreckers are at the other end of the Gold Coast (about a 50-60min drive from my place), but I decided to go and have a
look anyway. The first one had most of the parts I required, however someone had removed the head from the car and had just cut the wiring loom to
the manifold (where all the injectors are mounted, along with almost every sensor). I was hoping to find a complete loom, saves me guessing where
wires go when I plug it in at home, so I passed on this one. The second one had a complete car, with a cooked engine, however he wanted $450 for the
parts - too much again! Bloody rip-off merchants:cussing
I spent the rest of the afternoon looking for a service manual for the JE Camira so that I could check for the presence of a knock sensor (I
couldn't find one on any of the cars I have seen so far - not that I know what I am looking for!) I found a manual (Gregory's) at the local
Library for the N13 Pulsar and spent a fair bit of time comparing it to the VP/VP V8 Manual that I also found there (the Delcos are found in all these
vehicles). From what I can tell, the N13's and V8 Dunnydoors are not fitted with a knock sensor, however the V6 Dunnydoors are! Go figure...
Now totally confused I have just written an Email to the manufactures of the Kalmaker software (the stuff I will be using to set up my car) asking
them about a dozen questions. The main one is regarding the knock sensor; is it required on my vehicle (I would assume it is), is it fitted to the
N13's or JE's, and if not, is it difficult to fit to the ECU/loom, and finally would the V6 Dunnydoor one work with my engine or would I
need a more sophisticated one from a VT/VT/... that is not as easily fooled by normal internal engine noise. Hopefully I will have a reply
tomorrow...
I seem to be running in circles at the moment, but I have not stopped trying :thumb
Have you taken any photos of the stuff you have done - if so, give us a look!
Thats all I have for now, hopefully tomorrow will be a better day...er...OK, I just looked at the time, hopefully today will be a better day :P
R
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