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 General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
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| posted on July 16th, 2005 at 03:24 PM |
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Pulling apart the topend of the motor is pretty easy. Reminds me an awful lot of the BMW motorcycle motors too.
You mean so the nosecone clears the rear torsion tubes. I'm a little worried about reaching the top transmission mount bolts.
The alloy ducting - the big thing around the cooling fan that controls/directs the air. There is some tinware under it that inteferes severely with
removing the barrels. I did the naughty thing and did a couple of strategic bends to the tinware get necessary clearance. bent it back afterwards of
course. It would have been a lot easier pulling the gudgeons if that bit wasn't there.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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76camper
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on July 17th, 2005 at 02:11 AM |
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Yea, i know wat u mean now. Thats called the fan housing. You can take out the engine without touching any of the tinware! as for those little air
deflectors inbetween the cylinder and the pushrod tubes. You gotta take out the pushrod tubes then undo the couple of bolts holding the air deflectors
in place and they are off!. They are pretty fragile so take your time.... theres no rush, just get it right so you wont have to drop the engine
again....
When we first stripped out engine we bent the air deflectors and regretted it because they got a crack from the bend, luckily they dont get much
movement once they are in position.... good luck with it, and remember take your time.... get it right this time and there will be many more happy
trips to come
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
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| posted on July 17th, 2005 at 11:11 AM |
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Of course! Fan housing. Duh! I can be pretty thick at times.
I didn't mean the tinware under/between the barrels. Although I am acutely aware of those little buggers. Especially becaue I bent them too, just a
little to get clearance. Then I discovered there was a stripped thread on the replacement head for the screw that holds that stuff in place. Amazingly
I had a self tapper exactly the right size. Really stumpy and a nothingth of a mm thicker.
The tinware I meant is between the fanhousing and the barrels tending towards the top.
Yes, I want to remove the fanhousing this time round. I want to check on the condition of the rings before I put it all back together. Mostly because
of the dubious width of the replacements. I want to check that they haven't done damage. They were good rings too, apart from the width. I got them
from Mick Motors. They have always helped me out and gotten me quality replacements for things, so I'm definitely not bagging the quality of their
stuff.
I was forced to use the rings though because of the time postage took.The fact that I broke one during the discovery that they were marginally too
wide didn't help matters either. And I had to move interstate 2 weeks from that date too  The rings barely fit in some grooves, and not at all in others. I reused the unbroken old rings in that circumstance. Most of them
were broken before I took the motor apart.
I'm very surprised that the motor wasn't squirting oil like a fountain. It didn't leak. Or blow smoke. Weird. It was pretty gutless though. 80km/h
terminal velocity and needing to stop hourly for a rest for a few minutes.
Tomorrow I'm going to call the wreckers to find out how much scissor jacks go for. I know where I come from they usually just give them to people,
but I bet here they probably gouge people. I want 3. I had a great idea.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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76camper
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on July 18th, 2005 at 05:45 PM |
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Sounds like time isnt an issue this time round. Why not get some new seals and give the motor a proper clean up? Dont bother spliting the case but
definantly replace pushrod tube seals, and oil cooler seals etc. It wont take you long and a complete seal kit isnt too dear. Wish i could help you
out, wouldnt mind working on another motor, was alot of fun rebuilding ours!
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
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| posted on July 21st, 2005 at 12:35 PM |
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I've been debating whether to replace the pushrod tube seals. I did them just before I moved to QLD. I agree with the oil cooler seals. Guess I'll
have to get more head gaskets etc. *grumble*.
I wasn't going to split the case. I think the engine had a full rebuild a little while before I bought it.
I have 2 months before I have to move from here. Last time all the work took so long for a few reasons. I couldn't get parts. QLD summer sun is hot.
I probably did things in the worst possible way. And I had never done work on a type4 before.
Now I have pretty much a whole topend worth of spares, a couple of VW parts places nearby, and a concrete slab to work on.
I went to the VW mechanic/wreckers down the street. They have an impressive array of heads for sure. They had one 1800 head. Cracked. That didn't
make my day.
I've only found one wrecker locally in the phone book. It's like people here are afraid of being found or something. I know there's a lot more.
I've seen them! It's just a lot easier to call than visit. All I want to do is pick up 3 cheap jacks.
What I want to do is make a triangle frame. Put a jack on each corner. The triangle will be made so 2 corners are under the rear engine mount and the
third corner under the transmission somewhere. The jacks under the engine will have something like half a bit of tube steel or something on the top
for the mount bar to sit in. As for the transmission end, the best I could come up with is some sort of wide cradle so it doesn't slip sideways.
I figure the whole thing would be less than an hours welding. It'd also allow the engine/transmission to be tilted for easier removal.
As for height constraints. I dunno. Drop the engine out, then jack up the van and pull it out? Or put stuff under the frame for the removal.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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76camper
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on July 21st, 2005 at 07:41 PM |
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Sounds good, but using trolley jacks would be easier... remember you have to be able to pull the engine to the rear for the shift rod to clear...
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
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| posted on July 21st, 2005 at 08:59 PM |
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Trolley jacks are a bit more than $10 a piece though. I know the cheap ones it almost works out the same as the jacks. ah well. I'm mostly pursuing
my version because of stability. I'm terrified of the weight and fragility of the motor. Last time it went off balance on the jackwhen I nearly had
it on the ground and it got stuck on a bad angle flywheel down and I couldn't move it. I also got the thing jammed in the bay and had to do a lot of
persuading to make it move. Then it nearly fell again. Maybe I've just been unlucky. I don't know.
About moving it back. I have to tilt the motor down so the tinware and oil filler/dipstick clears the bay to be able to move it all back to dislodge
the transmission, right? I just want to make 125% sure I'm correct on this. This time I want to go in with all the information 
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
Bishop of Volkswagenism
Hairy Gutted Sloth
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| posted on July 21st, 2005 at 10:28 PM |
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It's a hell of a lot easier to remove the dipstick/oil filler tube.It gives you a lot more room to work in.Can you borrow a large trolley jack from
a servo on the weekend or sumfink?? Can some one LOCAL ON THE FORUM GIVE YOU A HAND????? A large trolley jack and a good block of wood makes the job
easier. If the wood passes underneath the engine enough you can use a brick on each sde of the motor to lower it down onto and still have enough gap
underneath to pull the jack out. When the jack is out you jack the car as high as possible and throw(maybe place) more blocks under the wheels to keep
it higher than the motor.Put jack back under the motor and lift it just enough to pull the whole lot out from under the car.You cant do that with
scissor jacks unless you have a strong skateboard. If you take the gearbox out with the motor you might have some weight issues/require some help.Best
to keep it simple. Good luck!!
tssnq.com.au
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
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| posted on July 22nd, 2005 at 11:35 AM |
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borrowing a trolley jack is unfortunately out of the question. They aren't exactly the most friendly people around here. Downright hostile in all
honesty. There are the occasional exceptions of course.
Hmm..There are Melbourne forum members, aren't there?
If I had one of those big trolley jacks with the plate sized top on it I'd be laughing. Those things are great.
Last time removing and reinserting the motor it got jammed in the engine bay. with the peripheral tinware, and the oil assemblies removed there seems
to be a little less space than I need. I must have done something wrong. The fan shroud got very wedged.
Anyway, I have to get ready for a garage sale tomorrow at my partners parents place. I have some stuff to shift over there. Including my beloved
arcade machines
Does anyone have any suggestions where I can get blocks of wood from? I know it's a stupid thing to ask. I just don't see them around here. The
building sites have large barbed wire topped fences around them so that's not possible. Most of the houses are brick anyway.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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76camper
Fahrvergnugen
Posts: 884
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| posted on July 22nd, 2005 at 10:49 PM |
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try a timber supply place? The tip? Just keep an eye out!
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
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Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
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Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on July 25th, 2005 at 11:53 AM |
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I'm afraid this won't be going much further until next week. I have to travel to a funeral this week
The garage sale went well. My in-laws sold heaps. We sold some stuff. Lots was stolen though. even the U-Bolts off the caravan, and my daughter's
desk. People here will steal anything.
Speaking of which, someone was having a snoop in my kombi a few nights ago  The same night there was a nice white beetle parked across the road a little earlier that night too. Probably a coincidence.
I'll be getting the jacks next monday, so it'll be resuming in a week.
I have to unload a trailerload of stuff that didn't sell, and run errands in town too today. Argh! I don't want to put those arcade machines back in
the house again.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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mnsKmobi
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on July 25th, 2005 at 01:41 PM |
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| Quote: | One more question. I
have a trolley jack and (maybe) a scissor jack in the EA. I also have 2 ramps and 2 axle stands (pin and hole type).
I also have a nice complement of sockets, allens, some ring spanners, torque wrench, shifters multigrips etc.
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That pretty much describes what I had (except the ramps). I have some blocks of wood (bits of red gum fence post) which were handy but not essential.
I also got a cheap skateboard and cut the raised ends off to make it flat
This is what I did:
- put the trolley jack under the engine and the scissor jack under the gb. Skate board in between jacks
- undid everything!
- took the carb (single prog) off to lower the engine profile
- lowered the trolley jack a smidge
- pushed the kombi forward to clear the gb selector shaft
- lowered both jacks until the engine/gb was on my skateboard
- used the jacks to lift the kombi and hauled the engine/gb out! Too easy!
The blocks of wood were used to stabilise the engine/gb when it was out from under the kombi. You could probably use bricks, etc iff you were careful
as they aren't as forgiving as wood.
Where are you in Melbourne? I'm in Box Hill. If you are nearby I could help out/loan you stuff. My time would be limited under pain of death
though!:P
PS. I'm out of town until Wednesday...nn[ Edited on 25-7-2005 by mnsKmobi ]
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
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Registered: June 15th, 2004
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Location: Peaceful Finley, NSW
Theme: UltimaBB Streamlined2
Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on July 25th, 2005 at 02:02 PM |
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I'm in thomastown.
I like your method too. I used a short skateboard last time round. I left the %&*%* thing in QLD by mistake. It had a secondary use as a guide pulley
to take up the slack in a V-Belt for the pump for the water tank. I forgot to grab it before we left.
Ah well, the skateboard was too short anyway and the motor fell off it
I've been keeping my eyes out for some wood or something. Haven't seen a thing yet.
You wouldn't have had much clearance when you moved the kombi forward, would you? maybe 10cm before the fan shroud hit the bay. Or less if the oil
filler was still on. I guess there's only a few cm overlap with the transmission and the torsion tube though.
There's about a million different ways to pull one of these motors out. I think I must have chosen one of the worst last time.
I got the trailer unloaded just as the daughter woke up. still have to shift everything inside or into the VW shed-on-wheels.
I can't wait to have my van running again! Sure I still have to get it registered, but mechanically and structurally it's good. It just looks
rough-as-guts.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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mnsKmobi
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on July 27th, 2005 at 02:19 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by General_Failure
I'm in thomastown.
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Probably a bit too far for maintaining harmony in the home. I thought there was someone up your way though...
| Quote: |
You wouldn't have had much clearance when you moved the kombi forward, would you? maybe 10cm before the fan shroud hit the bay. Or less if the oil
filler was still on. I guess there's only a few cm overlap with the transmission and the torsion tube though.
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There wasn't a lot of clearance, but enough. I don't remember taking the oil filler off but I may have.
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
Posts: 1036
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Registered: June 15th, 2004
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Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on July 31st, 2005 at 10:45 AM |
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Hopefully my house/car keys will arrive in the mail on tuesday so then I can go and collect the last bits that I need to start work. I think I may do
a little welding work I've been meaning to do beforehand though.
At least I didn't lose the kombi keys.
Thanks for the advice. I think I'll pull the oil filler off anyway. Not as if it's difficult to do.
I know what you mean about keeping harmony. Trust me. Thanks for the offer though.nn[ Edited on 31-7-2005 by General_Failure ]
I went to move the van yesterday. The battery is 100% stuffed now. Not even enough current to turn the radio on. Grrr.nn[ Edited on 1-8-2005 byGeneral_Failure ]
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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