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Author: Subject: 2332 Turbo progress update
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posted on September 6th, 2005 at 09:56 PM


So who won it and in what?????????
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posted on September 6th, 2005 at 09:58 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by nbturbo
So who won it and in what?????????


nobody seems to know , I have asked around and it appears to be a secret . Maybe too embarrassing for the organisers ?




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posted on September 6th, 2005 at 10:33 PM


This is why I didn't rush to get my car ready for the nationals, last year it was B.S about engineers reports wasn't it.

Maybe there won't be a Berg trophy anymore because every year theres a problem.

Bit of a shame really
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cool.gif posted on September 6th, 2005 at 10:49 PM


I have personally spoken to Dee Berg ( Genes' wife ) and she doesn't want to see the trophy marred or stopped , she totally disagrees with what has happened at this years event and agrees that the trophy is currently in the wrong hands and should be managed by someone independent and someone with brains enough to determine the outcome fairly .



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posted on September 6th, 2005 at 10:52 PM


Well its nothing like being bitten in the arse!!! been there and had that from particular vw people because i built something different!!!!:pukeJVLRacing
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posted on September 6th, 2005 at 11:17 PM
rules


I really dont think its fair to have a type 4 with almost 2.9 litres of displacement and a turbo compete against largely slower cars . I know you probably built the car in accordance with the rules BUT rules will change all the time . I'm building a Golf to run in Pro sport FWD and the rules are constantly changing . Before commiting to a project its always best to speak to the rule makers to see if your car complies . Oh and I'd like to see the rules state ALL VAG cars competing for the Gene Berg trophy !
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posted on September 6th, 2005 at 11:33 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Bug_racer
rules are constantly changing . Before commiting to a project its always best to speak to the rule makers to see if your car complies


for your info , I did get a copy of the rules in black & white prior to the event , and rules do not change during or after the event or after the rules have been distributed in print ( as it has in this case ). As for you not liking large capacity turbo engines in street car racing , it wouldn't matter if I had of fitted a jumbo jet engine , it is bracket racing after all !! only the Berg trophy is for fastest street registed VW.

:jesusnn[ Edited on 6-9-2005 by hypo-vw ]




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posted on September 7th, 2005 at 12:08 AM


Sounds like alot of jealousy around the Vw circle.If someone builds something better:puke people just knock you down no matter how hard you work for it.JVLRacing
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posted on September 7th, 2005 at 03:06 AM


It's a shame that things like this still happen seeing as our performance VW scene in Australia is so small. We should be able to do what we love and build our hotties and race them without all that crap involved.


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posted on September 7th, 2005 at 06:23 AM


Yeah, it's sad really......Most people have no idea of how much time , effort , knowledge , and money it takes to build a fast car.....It's much easier for them to sit back and pick on the fast and well engineered ones.
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posted on September 7th, 2005 at 10:46 AM


Somebody must know who won-they can't not award it. It must be in somebody's trophy cabinet.Who had the next fastest "legal" car??????
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posted on September 7th, 2005 at 12:31 PM


Guys, maybe start another post and not clog up Ian's build!
Are you out there Ian?
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posted on September 17th, 2005 at 11:20 PM


R U out there Ian?...Love to know how your going with your hotty....This car rocks!
Bring on the GTR/STi scalps!!!




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posted on September 18th, 2005 at 01:15 PM


He's still here, he's probly sick of sorting through the non related stuff on his post:crazy:
He is down stairs with his motor completly stripped checking everything.:smilegrin:




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posted on September 18th, 2005 at 08:06 PM


To everyone involved in the GB trophy discussion in this thread, I request you do not post any more related to this subject in Ian's thread.

I have not edited all the above posts despite requests for such action. HOWEVER, any more posts related to the above matter IN THIS THREAD will be edited/deleted.

Give Ian some consideration and keep this thing on track - this is not the thread for this discussion. I will U2U Ian about his opinion on the direction this has taken.




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posted on September 18th, 2005 at 11:43 PM


Shouldnt he be working on your frankenstein motor Wibble ?

how selfish....... not !!!

Hope there were no issues to provoke the tear down ?
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posted on September 19th, 2005 at 11:39 AM


All good, with the money invested in that motor, he just wanted to be sure. its now back together with new bearings and all tolerances checked sweet as! Car is going in for some touch up work on the paint job so engine was to come out anyway.
Frankenstein is coming along, got a nice shopping list filled from the states a couple of weeks ago including an EMPI alloy bubble top case clearanced and set up for 94's nice bit of gear that and we found an oroska 78.4 crank in my old stroker now the main problem is choosing between old skool webbers or injection..




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posted on September 19th, 2005 at 01:56 PM


78.4 x 94 = ?

Go the injection, but quad throttle bodies on IDF pattern manifolds.... best of both worlds :)

Hope you have a serious bottom end in this motor, its going to want to revvvvv..........
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posted on September 21st, 2005 at 01:54 PM


Well the latest news is that the engine is out of the car. I was having an oil pressure issue that turned out to be the not so close tollerences of the 32mm bugpack pump. What was I thinking assuming that a factory blue-printed pump would have the right tolerences!

So i've completely rebuilt the engine, this time the duel springs are going in as is the aircooled.net pushrods. I've decided to not run pauter rocker gear, having been shown the light on how to modify the SCAT procomp 1.25:1 rockers to make them correctly fit the competition eliminator heads. Muffler mike in the US (on shoptalkforums) is one major guru.

While the engine's out, the car is being partially stripped and returned to the panel beaters to have some area's fixed that were less than perfect. I've also got two assembly scratches and one stone chip to have fixed. When I get it back it will litterely be of show winning quality. Dead flat body work and glossy as hell!

With the engine out i'm removing the oil cooler and installing two HKS bar and plate coolers under the back seat section. (I'm sure ricers would love to know where their nicely designed parts are going). This is allowing me to install the kaffar brace, that i'm making using a modified nissan S13 strut brace and a couple of turnbuckles. I'm looking forward to saying good bye to wheel hop.

As for Wibble's frankenstein engine, I've had the second set of head conversion plates CNC machined and they fit perfectly. I've got more gear being waterjet cut this week, so with any luck next sunday i'll be assembling the bottom end of his engine. Excluding spacers that go under the cylinders, the engine will be the exact same width as a stock 1600. (thats measuring the width from the top of the rocker cover clip). I'm going to start a new thread and post the build up of the engine as it starts. For starters though here's the shopping list...

Empi bubbletop case with 10mm head stud holes.
94mm stroker pistons.
oroska 78.4mm crank
scat 5.7" rods with VW big ends
scat 4340 12lb flywheel, and scat gland nut.
dry sump oil system

pushrods... who needs them!

The bottom end of the engine will be good for 8000 RPM easily, as are the heads for short use. Redline will be set to 7300, shifting at 7000. About 9:1 CR for the prototype until some custom wiseco pistons are made and the heads are later changed to 2002 model EJ20 heads so the CR can be increased to 11:1.

The prototype should make an easy 160hp. I'd like to see 200hp from the version 2 of the engine. As for when this will happen will depend entirely on Wibbles wallet!
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posted on September 24th, 2005 at 06:08 PM


Heith,

Here's a pic of the engine case and where the turboi oil return is located. The fitting on the left side of the case under the number 4 exhaust pushrod tube goes through the case and has a nut on the other side.

The nut has two pieces of bar tig welded to each side of it so that it drops into the square section on the front of the case. This stops the nut from turning on the inside of the crank case. The bulkhead fitting is then screwed to the crankcase with a sealing washer between the case and the fitting. Loctite ultra grey silicon is also used to glue it in place.

The fitting diameter is 3/4th. Some will tell you that 3/8th is enough, so with my previous setup on the cb header I tried that first, then 1/2" and finally 3/4" before it "sort of" worked. Part of that problem was due to the way the CB header interferes with the oil drain, which isn't a factor with my new header.

If in doubt, over engineer it.
nn[ Edited on 24-9-2005 by iswinkels ]

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posted on September 24th, 2005 at 09:04 PM


thanks for that Ian, perfect. No I know exactly what your talking about.
Why wouldn't you just drill and tap the case and not worry about the nut ETC.
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posted on September 25th, 2005 at 10:07 AM


The metal in the side of the crankcase is just over 1/8th of an inch thick in that area. Keep in mind it is a sump not a structual section of the case. If you've got an aluminium case you'd definatly weld a 10mm flange on to the side of the case.
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posted on September 25th, 2005 at 07:55 PM


Hi Ian ,any dyno results on the motor as yet?:thumbJVLRacing.......Whats happening with Reubs?
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posted on October 19th, 2005 at 11:55 AM


Anymore going on Ian? Have you done your pull down yet?
Mine went to the turbo shop today. Will post some pics soon.
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posted on October 20th, 2005 at 11:17 PM


Yeah the car's stripped out again...

Its currently being re-sprayed, paint flaws fixed etc. It turns out the entire car has to be re-sprayed as just about every panel had a problem of some sort. Not saying it looked bad, but when I get it back it will look completely AWESOME! with any luck.

The 2332's removed and I took the opportunity to tear it down to discover why i was having what I call less than ideal oil pressure when it was hot. Turned out that bugpack's blue printed pump's aren't all that blueprinted, so with a little maching its all good and should be easily capable of exploding my new HKS oil coolers. Fortunatly thats not really an issue, as the presure pump doesnt circulate oil thru the coolers. An electric pump does that.

So the other upgrade that are happening is that I've discovered that Nissan S13 suspension parts off EBAY can make an AWESOME kaffar brace. I got a Nissan S13 rear adjustable rear strut brace, which is flat polished billet alloy for joining the two shock towers, and then... I scored for $150... a pair of S13 D1 adjustable camber bars. They normally retail for $450! Nice blue anodised billet alloy. So i'll be fitting that when I get the car back mid next week.

I assure you, there WILL be pictures :D

Then the 2332 goes back in as it was before, but with an oil cooler change. The kaffar brace would have interfered with the placement of my 12"x12" oil cooler, so i've sold that and scored a pair of 12"x6" alloy HKS oil coolers with 7" fans, also off ebay.

As for dyno results... none yet, but at 5lb it makes more power than the 1641 did at 18lb (seat of the pants assessment) I suspect its an easy 200hp at 5lb, and most likely 300-320 at 14lb (once I crank it up there). I've upgraded the pushrods to the 8000 RPM Aircooled.Net pushrods now too, so the theoritical rev limit for the engine is now about 7500 RPM, but I reckon i'll limit it to 6500.

I am so looking forward to entering the car in some car show and listing off the components on the brag board... Porsche brakes, nissan D1 based traction bar... the ricer guys will be pissed!

There is one other upgrade that is in the works... I've bought a Nissan Gt1752 turbo, rated to 220hp. Because the GT25-320 is too responsive, and I suspect it will run out of puff at about the 6000 RPM mark i've begun planning to upgrade to a pair of GT17's. This will eliminate any top end issue, and move the full boost mark from 2400 to about 2600-2700 rpm as well as increase the power potential to an easy 350-380hp.

I've got to finish wibble's wrx headded engine first. I had some problems with that last weekend but will be buying new head stud material tomorrow and hope to have the heads bolted on soon. Then wibble's got to buy some 5.7" rods for it!
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posted on October 20th, 2005 at 11:18 PM


I've updated my website with all the new data for the 2332, plus the new pics of my car wearing CUP2 wheels.
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posted on October 21st, 2005 at 09:56 AM


Cool Ian,
Sounds great. Will check out the website.
Do you want to sell your oil 12x12 oil cooler?
Went down and checked out my oval that is down at the shop at the mo. They have got the turbo sitting in place and are doing the collector at the moment and then going to start working back from there same as yours. With the exhaust side of the turbo facing the passenger rear guard, where did you run your exhaust?. I was thinking back towards the front of the car and exiting in front of the back wheel (passenger). What do you think?
We have also decieded to run 2 intercoolers, one on each side mounted to the manifolds and linked with plumbing and central throttle body. Like Ron Lummas' first setup. I had another really cool setup in progress but we could get the deck lid to open right up and I thought that would become really annoying. I will be posting pics. Off to check out your webpage.
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posted on October 21st, 2005 at 10:29 AM


Sorry the oil coolers sold already... you'd have the same issue as me though in that it would not have fitted in the car along with a kaffar brace, which you will definatly be needing. A berg traction bar is only good for up to about 180hp. After that if you get traction your in serious danger of perminantly bending your frame horns. Better to strengthen it before that happens.

Keep an eye open on ebay and look for the 7" fans and 12x6" coolers like i got. I'll take a photo soon of the coolers to show you how they look when assembled. They have nice fittings cast into the cooler ends so they readily accept -8an speedflo fittings.

Good to hear the header is coming along. One other thing I did to make exhaust and air intake easier to do was to mount the turbo so that the compressor was higher than the exhaust bu about 10cm (about a 15degree angle). This made getting the exhaust away from the turbo with a 2.5" downpipe a lot easier to do, and also the intake plumbing to the turbo and cold air intake is higher and clears all my oil lines a lot easier. I've got a filter and remote pressure regulator for the oil system mounted off the right rear universal engine mount off the crank case.

Good call on the running of two intecoolers. That will be one each side I guess and then with a compressed air imput to the center? I was considering using two of the smallest PWR intercoolers and feeding up to each side direct from each turbo's when I convert to twin's, but for the moment I can actually preserve all my existing plumbing and just run both turbo's through the single intercooler.

My only concern is that if one cooler gets more coolant flow than the other, resulting in a few degrees air temp differential between each side of the engine. One of the guys in the states mounted his PWR intercooler on the rear parcel shelf and then plumbed the air through holes in the firewall. This made for a lot less cluttered engine bay for him, and probably no noticable effect on lag as the pipes were still short.
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posted on October 21st, 2005 at 10:54 AM


Hi Ian,
I had noticed on your header that the turbo was tilted and thought that was why. I wanted them to keep under the lid in the back because mine has to go through our MOT and I am not sure if they would like coolant entering the cab. In saying that I have a old 60 esky that I have converted into a icebox which liquid is going to flow around the outside section and ice is going in the middle section. Bit like a resevoir that gets cool. I want to do it this way in keeping with the period of the car and also being a 54, I really dont want to cut big holes in her. I am also setting it up to flow the fuel lines through the same ice box but not putting the section of tube in for the engineering. I am actually doing the whole thing with only cutting a 60mm hole in the floor on the luggage area. I am interested in the brace, i'll check out the pics when posted but I dont know if you know, I'm going irs. Is it still needed?
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posted on October 21st, 2005 at 11:06 AM


I'd suggest mounting and testing the intercooler, and mount your coolant tank on your parcel shelf. Then just pull it out when you go for your engineering test. You CAN run without a tank, but it just complicates things with bleeding air from the system, and you can't run ice. Or you can run with no coolant when getting your engineering done, and just disconnect your electric pump. Intercooling, functional or otherwise isn't required for an engineer to pass a turbo system. Just wind the boost all the way back so if they test drive it they can't damage it (and don't get too scared!)

I made 165 at the rear wheels with the 1641 turbo without ice and still had 18 degrees ignition with 16-18lb boost(i cant remember what I was running then).

You'll definatly still need a traction brace. IRS or swing makes no difference. If my nissan S13 based brace works out, you can buy cheap S13 suspension parts off ebay to make a strong brace for about $200 easy. I went for some nice billet alloy stuff because it was there, and it was reasonably cheap but its not really necessary. I like overkill!



[ Edited on 21-10-2005 by iswinkels ]
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