| [ Total Views: 298244 | Total Replies: 1178 | Thread Id: 80275 ] |
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 Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 26th, 2009 at 08:10 PM |
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Thanks for that Joel, I just read the whole article. I think I'll do something similar to what he says but he makes no mention of the tab under the
handbrake.
Do everyone think I should just leave that out or do what I said above and drop a small section of the bottom plate off?
At least that way I'm not cutting into the tunnel itself and it's remaining completely solid.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Scarab
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| posted on December 26th, 2009 at 08:18 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by smileyman3000
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Scarab
wow....that must be some current draw on your welder to have blacked out half the town!! 
great to see you are moving ahead mate.
all the best for Christmas
Scarab (aka: Paul)
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It wasn't anywhere near the highest setting!! I could probably take out the state if I turned it right up!
You'll have to get stuck into that Type 3 of yours!!
I'm thinking about coming down to Adelaide mid way through next year so it would be good to catch up if you're not busy and in town. Might be able
to give you a hand with the Notch if you're still pottering along with it.
Smiley
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Sounds good mate.....I agree with you about getting stuck into the Notch....at the moment, time and money are the issues, but looking forward to
updating my thread soon!!
Will definitely try and catch up when you come down!
Great work on the Baja by the way
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 26th, 2009 at 08:21 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Scarab
Great work on the Baja by the way
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Thanks Paul.
As I said above I'm trying to get it together ASAP for the Australia Day long weekend Manx trip that is happening just out of Yeppoon.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
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| posted on December 26th, 2009 at 09:15 PM |
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Well , if ya stop hanging around here . you might get some more done hehehehehehe
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 28th, 2009 at 12:08 AM |
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I decided to go with the method I discribed above, dropping the bottom plate off and feeding a new line through.
First I marked and cut the plate, then drilled the spotwelds out and chiseled the plate off.
Then I set about removing the old fuel line. I was fairly easy, I unfolded all the tabs except the one in the framehorn which I couldn't reach. Then
cut the fuel line into a few pieces and it all came out.
While I had it open I took the opertunity to remove the now useless heater control tubes.
I'm also going to put extra bracing on the clutch tube to prevent any failures for the next 40 years or so.
I painted the inside of the tunnel as far as I could reach with POR-15 again, hopefully this will slow the germlins down for a while.
Going to run the new fuel line tomorrow hopefully, but first i have to fix dad's ute which decided to stop working on the way to the cinemas this
afternoon.
Hey everyone, I've just run the new fuel line into the tunnel and I was wondering if it should go below or above the pedal shafts that run through
the tunnel.
Have a look at the first picture and you'll see what I mean.
If people could tell me ASAP it would be good cause I want to get this finished so I can close the tunnel back up.
As Dave suggested I bent the fuel line down so it will run over the top of the pedal shaft (note the pan is upside down).
I've rewelded the middle clutch tube/fuel line tab so it's extra strong. Then I rewelded the center plate back in place.
I'm getting ready to weld the plate under the pedals back in but before I do that I'm going to get and air blower and vacuum cleaner and suck
anything that's left in the tunnel out.
I vacuumed out the tunnel and sprayed as much fishoil in there as I could. Then I welded up the plates that cover the hole in the front that I made. I
sure hope I didn't forget anything.
Even the factory cross marks on the new plate lined up!!
Smiley 
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Camo
A.k.a.: Kev
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| posted on December 28th, 2009 at 05:25 PM |
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Its too late now, but from my old photos it appears as if it runs under the pedal shaft.
I honestly dont know if it makes a difference.
Kev
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 28th, 2009 at 06:28 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Camo
Its too late now, but from my old photos it appears as if it runs under the pedal shaft.
I honestly dont know if it makes a difference.
Kev
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Oh well. As you said she's all sealed now.
I've started cleaning up the tunnel edges in preparation for the new floorhalves with a flapper wheel and wire brush.
It's been a PITA trying to work on the car today because it's been raining on and off.
Hopefully it stops this week so I can get started on the body while I wait for the checkerplate to show up for the floors.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Joel
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| posted on December 28th, 2009 at 06:33 PM |
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as long as its not gonna rub on the clutch pedal rotating its not gonna matter
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 28th, 2009 at 07:03 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
as long as its not gonna rub on the clutch pedal rotating its not gonna matter
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Yeah I made sure it wasn't in line with the holes at the sides at all. Plus the fuel line is run up the center of the whereas the clutch hook is off
to one side in the Superbugs. So I can't forsee any problems.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on December 28th, 2009 at 10:36 PM |
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Nice work Daniel  , and a pro finish too.
Won't be long before the pan would be finished hey?
what mm checker plate do u recommend for the pans?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on December 29th, 2009 at 09:46 AM |
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The checkerplate for the floorhalves is 2.1mm thick, any thicker will be going backwards due to the additional weight. Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
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| posted on December 29th, 2009 at 07:42 PM |
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Looking good Dan , hope to be not scaring at this point but i hope you ran a cable through that clutch tube before sealing it all up to make sure you
didn't get to much penetration from weld into the tube and therefore blockikng the tube
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on January 2nd, 2010 at 07:59 PM |
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Got stuck into the body after a late lunch this afternoon.
I've got a replacement pillar panel that needs to go in, but I soon found out that was the least of my worries.
Turns out the sill and quarter in that area are in shambles worse than I thought.
First thing I did was cut away the piece that the new panel will be replacing.
And smoothed out the surrounding metal and removed old welds and brazing.
Next I cut the heater channel area around where the 90° elbow is and removed it because it was rusting away. I'm going to seal the sills up and not
run the hoses up inside the pillars or anything.
Next thing was the removal of the quarter area, which was now two sheets thick due to average previous repairs. I then spent ages grinding away the
welding and brazing and bits of old metal.
Wire wheeled out inside the heater channel and vacumned out all the crud.
I straightened my beam on Thursday morning in a press at work. It cracked a little so I've rewelded these. Then I wire buffed it back to bare metal
for the second time (was getting a little orange).
Then it got hung up for it's first coat of POR-15.
While I had the brush out and seeing as I had cleaned up the inside of the channel. It got a good coating as far as I could reach into the sill.
Once all the welding is done the inside of the heater channels will be getting fishoiled to death aswell.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on January 3rd, 2010 at 01:40 PM |
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So I've finally started to work out how to use Photobucket (I hope) so I'm putting up this mornings progress.
This is what the area looks like in daylight after the paint has dried.
This is the new panel sitting in place after I finished cutting it to size.
And this is a few images of it welded in place.
I came inside to have a break as the heat is absolutely killing me. Going back out to do some more now. I want to try to get up to putting the new
door pillar in today. We'll see how things travel.
This was the next area of attack.
Old metal cut out.
Made of the replacement panel, as you can see I made it slighty higher than the old one, plus is exteneds off to the right to bring everything up to
the same hight.
Completely welded and smoothed.
Now I just have to make a top piece to seal the sill up. Before this I'm going to pain the new metal on the inside.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Aussie
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| posted on January 3rd, 2010 at 06:01 PM |
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What has the POR-15 been like to work with? Good finish? Thinking of using but heard lots of mixed views on the stuff.
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vwrallycar
A.k.a.: Andrew Rankin
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| posted on January 3rd, 2010 at 07:32 PM |
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por 15 is awesome, i can highly recommend it
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on January 3rd, 2010 at 08:35 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Aussie
What has the POR-15 been like to work with? Good finish? Thinking of using but heard lots of mixed views on the stuff.
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Bushes on well. Self leveling. I got a few brush stokes show up in those suspension components that I hung up to paint, but I think that was more
because they were vertical.
The stuff goes for miles and I highly recommend it. I would probably put a lot more effort into getting the final finish to a higher quality if it was
a show car. But for floorpan etc on a Baja it's so easy to just bruch on.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Aussie
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| posted on January 4th, 2010 at 07:35 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by smileyman3000
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Aussie
What has the POR-15 been like to work with? Good finish? Thinking of using but heard lots of mixed views on the stuff.
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Bushes on well. Self leveling. I got a few brush stokes show up in those suspension components that I hung up to paint, but I think that was more
because they were vertical.
The stuff goes for miles and I highly recommend it. I would probably put a lot more effort into getting the final finish to a higher quality if it was
a show car. But for floorpan etc on a Baja it's so easy to just bruch on.
Smiley
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Can you spray this stuff or does it have to be brushed on? When you say more effort for a show car finish do you mean more care brushing it on or
using something different like a base and clear 2 pac?
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Scarab
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| posted on January 4th, 2010 at 08:24 PM |
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Impressive progress Smiley! Keep it up mate!
Scarab (aka: Paul)
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on January 4th, 2010 at 08:41 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Aussie
| Quote: | Originally
posted by smileyman3000
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Aussie
What has the POR-15 been like to work with? Good finish? Thinking of using but heard lots of mixed views on the stuff.
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Bushes on well. Self leveling. I got a few brush stokes show up in those suspension components that I hung up to paint, but I think that was more
because they were vertical.
The stuff goes for miles and I highly recommend it. I would probably put a lot more effort into getting the final finish to a higher quality if it was
a show car. But for floorpan etc on a Baja it's so easy to just bruch on.
Smiley
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Can you spray this stuff or does it have to be brushed on? When you say more effort for a show car finish do you mean more care brushing it on or
using something different like a base and clear 2 pac?
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You can spray it.
When I say more effort I mean going to a lot more care brushing it (I only slapped it on there) or spraying it on.
It can be top coated. There is a lot of info on the Australian distributors website. If you're interested you should have a read or email them.
http://ppcco.com.au/
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on January 5th, 2010 at 06:23 PM |
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A small update, I ordered the checkerplate sheet and the unistrut this afternoon. With any luck they should be ready to collect tomorrow. Then I can
get started on new pan halves!!
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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matt
A.k.a.: Choco
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| posted on January 5th, 2010 at 06:32 PM |
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how bad did the por 15 burn when you welded near it???
matt
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on January 5th, 2010 at 06:54 PM |
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Didn't seem to catch on fire, could smell it though.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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cam070
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| posted on January 5th, 2010 at 10:47 PM |
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Impressive progress on this project. Well done!
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on January 6th, 2010 at 09:44 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by cam070
Impressive progress on this project. Well done!
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Why thank you.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on January 9th, 2010 at 07:11 PM |
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Got stuck into finishing of the heater channel and welding in the new pillar today.
This is the last hole in the channel that needed to be filled.
Made up a new piece and tacked it in place to ensure a good fit.
Then fully welded and ground smooth.
Then I attacked the installation of the new door pillar.
First I spent a while grinding the area and the repair panel getting them to the best fit. Both seemed to be quite out of shape.
Then the top was tacked in place and the distance between the A and B pillars was measured and compared to the drivers side. The bottom of the panel
was adjusted accordingly and then tacked in place onto the top of the heater channel. We grabbed the passengers door and hung it to check that the
gaps and distances were correct.
I have to say I was pretty impressed because the door gaps were prefect on the first try.
Then the door was removed and the panel fully welded and smoothed off.
Good thing I know how to do it now because the drivers side also needs doing. I thought it wasn't too bad but after have a bit of a poke around today
the same thing will be happening to the drivers side. It looks as though it might need some heater channel repairs also.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on March 14th, 2010 at 09:22 PM |
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WOW. 2 months without an update.
Truth is I haven't had a computer for about a month and a half.
The Baja has been very slowly coming along, haven't done much over the last two months. Got a little done in the last week.
Made the new side rails up out of galvanised unistrut. They have the obvious big bend in them just below where the door pillar is. And a very slight
subtle bend at the back of the floorpan.
All I can say is measure a million times, tack on, and measure again. Then you can weld.
Both sides fully welded.
Started cutting the new floorplates to shape. I spent a long time with the grinder getting them to fit just right.
RHS floor tacked into place.
I decided to run with flat floors the whole way inside of putting a slight bend at the back of the flloorplate. I chose this to make the battery
easier to mount under the seat.
Right floor fully welded on the top side.
LHS floor sitting in place.
This is the little notch I made in the floors where they swap from sitting on top of the tunnel seam to running underneath near the very back.
Both floorpans fully welded top and bottom.
Last little plate welded in place.
Not long to go now and it'll be wirewheel then paint time.
The pan that I am using is a superbug one, so the heater controls are the little levers either side of the handbrake lever.
Because I removed these little levers I decided to give the area a tidy up and strengthen it a bit.
First cut being made to removed the section with the thread on it.
I wanted to cover the slot on either side
New plate tacked in place, covers both the slots, gives me somewhere to weld the forward facing tabs down to and completely surrounds the handbrake
area to give it more strength.
Fully welded and smoothed back.
Another shot of the pan as it is currently.
Most of the work in the past two posts has been done in the last week.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Scarab
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| posted on March 15th, 2010 at 06:44 AM |
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Awesome work mate! Keep it up, its coming together nicely!
Scarab (aka: Paul)
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wilderness
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| posted on March 15th, 2010 at 10:06 AM |
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love ur work!!!!
1958 Beetle (currently restoring)
Mk5 Golf Pacific TDi
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jjwebb123
A.k.a.: Jason
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on March 15th, 2010 at 10:38 AM |
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nice work mate,i soo want to learn how to do all that stuff myself.
"A car for the people, an affordable Volkswagen, would bring great joy to the masses and the problems of building such a car must be faced with
courage."
Adolf Hitler At opening of 1934 Berlin Auto Show
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