| [ Total Views: 12144 | Total Replies: 95 | Thread Id: 91717 ] |
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 seagull
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| posted on September 18th, 2011 at 11:05 PM |
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Manny LOL at the white recycled fridge grill
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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tweety
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| posted on September 19th, 2011 at 07:15 AM |
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add to that the flexi dunny cistern ducts....
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tweety
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| posted on September 19th, 2011 at 06:28 PM |
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Ready to start up tomorrow morning. yeh!!
There is a pool of auto trans fluid on the floor. I had changed the pan gasket and used that red high temp gasket silastic. so it shloudnt have
leaked- am disappointed.
I've been told STAG gasket glue is best.
Anyone with ideas on how to stop my auot from leaking? Will post in tech as well.
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tweety
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| posted on September 25th, 2011 at 06:59 PM |
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Engine is going now. have issues with carbie jetting, small water leaks but all ok. exhaust next.
engine is smooth, power delivery at this stage seems adequate. with that loud exhaust and the tacho reading low I have no idea how hard the engine is
working. so will wait till that exhaust comes.
below- these are called Hawse pipes. from boats they are used for anchor ropes. Ducting to thermo fan area.
and lourve vents also from boats.
kill two birds with the one stone. a thermo fan sender unit and a temp gauge in one digital unit.
it also has a voltmeter
final stages now.
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pete wood
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| posted on September 29th, 2011 at 04:49 PM |
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Now I want vid of you DRIFTing it. 
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tweety
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| posted on September 29th, 2011 at 09:18 PM |
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Pete wood....you devil you!!
For some time as it turns out I've wanted a few minutes of Video on Youtube.
So I have a few seconds of months ago before the roof- cruising along at 90 kph on a country road. Time I took some of it with the roof. Set the
scene- from the cruise shot to seeing just welding shadows...then reversing out of the garage with the roof on and Subie power. I'll even let some
air out of the airbags to give it a lower look. Wheel stand? Not meant for it but easily done...maybe a small one.
Then the drift. Yes, many a dirt road through state forest here. Set up the tripod and make sure I'm alone.
Done Pete!! Will do!
Gimmy 2-3 weeks.
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pete wood
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| posted on October 3rd, 2011 at 08:07 AM |
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no. proper drift, I want to see tyre smoke.... 
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Joel
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| posted on October 3rd, 2011 at 08:25 AM |
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Trust me Pete, these trikes stick to the corners way too well to break traction.
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baja_01
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| posted on October 3rd, 2011 at 10:32 AM |
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Reading with interest......One suggestion thou, the flexible ducting, an alternative for this could be ducting used for exhaust fans over stoves.
Comes in different diameters and lengths. Maybe a bit better around heat.
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tweety
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| posted on October 3rd, 2011 at 03:38 PM |
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Baja_01 thanks. the ducting is ahead of the radiator. Cant see heat getting anywhere near it and is inches away from the cool side of the core.
rode it today to an exhaust place and temp sat on 85 degrees. Thermatic fan cuts in at 88, the thermostat rating. real test in the summer - can put
second thermo fan on but want to wait and see. havent even made up some wind deflecting plates yet under the trike to get more air up.
Joel is correct- VW style trikes wont smoke tyres. They easily out corner motorcycles. M/C's scrape pegs and are braking when trikers are
accelerating around the bends- I know this- proved it against a HD springer 1200 and a Yammy 1200 tourer. In fact I'll go further. I towed a camper
trailer and twice was surprised by a hairpin bend and in desperation just turned into it at warp speed- no problem. another time on the great ocean
road a red Porsche new model tailed me. Bends with advisory signs of 35 kph were taken at 80-90. For 15 kms the Porsche couldnt outcorner me until the
first straight and he was gone. And I had that camper in tow!! Turned out to be perfect speed for the auto trans 2nd gear range. The C of G is just
ahead of the rear axle. some VW trikes you can lift the front wheel with your little finger.
So no it will be a dirt road frift if any and on private property ...of course!. These machines are not suitable for wheelstands but if its a Youtube
film it would be worth it.
Exhaust first then engineer. Exhaust design will be a little "wild" but tasteful. Found a fabricator that has flair- always a problem for me is to
avoid those professionals that cant see outside the "box". Basically there will be the mandatory balance pipe, good efficient muffler each side to
upswept twin pipes each side.
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ttriebler
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| posted on October 3rd, 2011 at 05:27 PM |
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Tweety - congratulations on pulling off such a great conversion. I have read this thread with great interest and applaud you for the way you have gone
about it. AND it's done :-)
Reversed gears for Subaru transmissions.
Fit a Subaru 5 speed to your rear engined car
www.subarugears.com |
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tweety
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| posted on October 3rd, 2011 at 06:58 PM |
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Thanks Todd. It has been a commitment but gotta admit that the couple of forums I've used have really helped out. Now any novice can do this type of
work and that's great.
And one day I just might convert my type 3 auto for one of your O/D units reverse crown. I know I've mentioned it many times to other VW trike
owners.
It was a delight this morning riding Tweety 75 kms to shepparton for the exhaust booking and not have an oil leak or anything that would result in the
engine to be extracted. And boy was the subie engine LOUD!
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pete wood
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| posted on October 4th, 2011 at 08:45 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by tweety
Now any novice can do this type of work and that's great.
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Umm, I think you're selling yourself short. Most of the novices, like Todd said, don't even finish it.
Re the motor; have you noticed a difference in performance? More torque/power? How is it different to the 1916 in driving?
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tweety
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| posted on October 4th, 2011 at 10:33 AM |
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Pete.wood. got me!. I've learned something about some forums. The downside- the side we shouldnt focus on too much is , epsecially when it comes
to motor vehicle enthusiasts, to take care in avoiding conflict. And conflict often comes about when ones expertise is questioned. A self confessed
novice avoid this almost entirely!
A nasty arorgant fellow attacks you for your decisions/unprofessional mechanical work...."but I'm a novice, I'm allowed to do that"!
Having an interest in motor vehicles for 40 years does give you invaluable knowledge and more importantly, in the case of a conversion, the ability to
seek out advice and put it into action. So yeh, likely am selling myself short. And the advise I've received invaluable.
The 1916 I pulled out of this trike did have twin webers. The barrells pistons and valves were all replaced due to warranty issues. But the exhaust-
those cannons with a thumb sized hole at the end restricted the performance so much I'd suggest that it isnt fair comparing this ea81 to it. (see pic
below) However I have ridden another 1916 trike (manual though).
Also the exhaust being two straight out pipes from the ea doesnt give me an accurate feel for the performance.
Some observations though I feel so far-
The Ea is much smoother, idles perfect, starts easier, is comparable but maybe a little less take off under 2000rpm, has noticable improvement to mid
range 2-3000 rpm (more noticable torque)and much better high revs power say over 3500rpm where it seems to take off nicely when held in gear. I only
ever took the 1916 over 4000 rpm a few times because it felt uncomfortable doing it.
I am most satisfied at this point especially because I expected oil leaks and more dramas. Thats my lack of confidence- understandable. The 1916 I had
deserved looking at and developing and went to a good home for that. At similar expense of that sale I got that bit more power, lovely torque increase
where I wanted it and it matches so well to the type 3 auto with very similar ratios as the Leone 3 speed auto of the 80's.
Finally, I acknowledge this conversion isnt that popular. The EJ much more desirable by most and advanced. But we should keep this in perspective.
I'm 56 years old and an engine easily worked on at the side of the road is a priority. Added to that an engine that gives me that extra ooomph at a
reasonable cost, less maintenance and will tow my Guppy van a little easier it suits me fine.
The real test for me will be economy. The 1916 got 26 mpg without the roof, 23 mpg with the roof and 19 mpg roof and towing 450 kgms van. Gross of
the trike is 540kgms van is 450 kgms so about the all up weight of a brumby the ea came out of. So even though its an auto I'm expecting I'll use
much less fuel especially cruising with one throat open on the carbie after a dyno tune with the right jets.
Some more pics of VW trikes. These two are also Panthers. From Wodonga.
A porsche I think...
The roof badges I used I made from zero house numbers alloy from mitre 10 and two boot stickers for the Carolina Panthers NFL.
The roof had to be fastened to the frame with patio bolts (hardened steel lockable) and tray clamps the altter to stop rattling.
The Guppy van. all the conveiences. We have an annex , shower cubicle with hot shower and porta dunny.
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tweety
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| posted on October 19th, 2011 at 08:35 PM |
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not long now
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tweety
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| posted on October 21st, 2011 at 08:37 PM |
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Tweety is home.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXwh4z8d66o
bare in mind the engine cant use the secondary weber 32/36 throat. so all video is with the primary thraot only. but I'm very impressed.
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General_Failure
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| posted on October 22nd, 2011 at 09:55 AM |
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It's all good. Can I ask why you can't use the secondary throat on the carby?
Are you using a standard manifold? Mine's one that Joel actually spotted on ebay which had been modified to take a Weber directly. It was only
recently I learned that the weird thing with the bullet connector on the manifold is a thermo fan switch!
Glad it all came together for you. Those finned ducts look great by the way. They look like they are meant to be there and look kind of mean too. I
approve.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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tweety
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| posted on October 22nd, 2011 at 10:12 AM |
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Thanks tristan. The weber is brand new bolted onto standard manifold with supplied adapter. It was suppose to be jetted for the ea81 but have my
doubts the right jets are used. I purchased some more and tried 125, 130, 135 etc and still it seems to flood when that secondary comes in. it will
also backfire. A mechanic firend of mine thinks its is a blockage but the carbie has been pulled off so many times I have given up and need a dyno
anyway. So that is on hold.
When I removed the flywheel of the Subie to replace it with the flex palte for the VW auto I didnt at the time realise I was also removing the timing
marks. So I had to confirm that TDC was indeed when a notch on the crankcase front pully lined up with the two engine halves line. Then luckily the
pulley circumference was a convenient 360mm. Meaning one degree of timing to one millimeter. This enabled me to time the engine to say 8-10 degrees.
The timing seems perfect bUT I would like to dyne it to fix the carbie problem and confirm where the best timing is for ebst perforance for premium
unleaded fuel.
Hence not worroed too much just yet.
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General_Failure
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| posted on October 22nd, 2011 at 10:56 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by tweety
Thanks tristan. The weber is brand new bolted onto standard manifold with supplied adapter. It was suppose to be jetted for the ea81 but have my
doubts the right jets are used. I purchased some more and tried 125, 130, 135 etc and still it seems to flood when that secondary comes in. it will
also backfire. A mechanic firend of mine thinks its is a blockage but the carbie has been pulled off so many times I have given up and need a dyno
anyway. So that is on hold.
When I removed the flywheel of the Subie to replace it with the flex palte for the VW auto I didnt at the time realise I was also removing the timing
marks. So I had to confirm that TDC was indeed when a notch on the crankcase front pully lined up with the two engine halves line. Then luckily the
pulley circumference was a convenient 360mm. Meaning one degree of timing to one millimeter. This enabled me to time the engine to say 8-10 degrees.
The timing seems perfect bUT I would like to dyne it to fix the carbie problem and confirm where the best timing is for ebst perforance for premium
unleaded fuel.
Hence not worroed too much just yet.
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Sounds like we both had similar problems.
I was having carb problems for a few reasons. They boiled down to this:
* Too much upstream pressure.
* Incorrect jetting.
* Differences in needle and seat design.
* Sticking secondary butterfly due to manifold gasket interference.
* Escaped charcoal in the canister valve causing it to hold open and cause rich condition (Maybe lower vac triggering the power valve?)
*Original power valve assembly shimmed to open at higher vacuum.
*Misc vacuum leaks.
I didn't use an adapter because I couldn't get one. I ordered one from the U.S. but it was wrong so I got Sh*tty. Only a few months ago I learned
Autobarn sells them.
The jetting I found on ausubaru seems to have reined in the richness but as it's not on the road yet I can't vouch for it. Mine is a very minor
variant of it. It is:
pri idle: 50
sec idle: 55
pri main: 132.5
sec main: 130
pri corr: 160
sec corr: 165
It seems to be quite responsive and has good low down torque. I have another slight difference in my setup though. A thick aluminium spacer so my
Holley's throttle linkage could clear the manifold in an underslung setup, plus I'm using one of those air filter adapters with a Mazda OEM UFO
cleaner.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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tweety
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| posted on October 22nd, 2011 at 02:12 PM |
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interesting. some jet sizes I got from weber were recommended by ausubaru forumites and I tried them and it improved a bit. I just cant be bothered
now to fiddle with it. So am waiting on a few busness cheques to come in and off to the dyno.
VW performance Centre Croydon Vic has a wizz kid - Daniel and I've relied on him before. Besides I want to know the engine output!
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tweety
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| posted on October 25th, 2011 at 02:20 PM |
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finished. here it is....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXwh4z8d66o
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Joel
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| posted on October 25th, 2011 at 03:04 PM |
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Gotta be happy with that 
Especially if its only running on the primary throat too.
Any reason you went for the balance pipe on the headers?
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tweety
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| posted on October 25th, 2011 at 08:44 PM |
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thanks Joel,
too much throttle cuts the engine. flooding or blockage. but vw performance centre gets it thurday week for a fix and dyno. will post results. this
morning went out, two squirts of the throttle and immediate start and idle smooth in 5 seconds. nice. motor seems strong.
I sought advice from the ausubaru forum on the exhaust. seems subie engine run better with the balance pipe.
a good example is this pic.
of course I wouldnt know if it would make a difference but I'm really happy with the note it has now. And a bonus is low revs ther is a nice rumble
not unlike a small v8. think I'll evenually chrome those 4 tail pipes, there is a flange at their beginning to easily take them off.
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General_Failure
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| posted on November 1st, 2011 at 04:10 PM |
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The bog is concerning. With a Weber it can be pretty much everything. I swear every single one of them behaves differently.
Definitely have to watch the revs. When working on the throttle linkage I've had it less than perfect more than once causing it not to return and had
to kill the engine because it just wants to rev to the moon! the best thing that a person can do to those motors is remove the Hitachi carb that they
come with. Horrible things.
edit: 1000th post woo!
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Joel
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| posted on November 1st, 2011 at 04:48 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by tweety
of course I wouldnt know if it would make a difference but I'm really happy with the note it has now.
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If you want to experiment slip a piece of tin between those flanges on the balance tube which will block it off and see if you notice any difference
in sound/performance.
The old man had a V8 302 XB GS Falcon coupe back in the 80s which had a factory balance pipe and it kept causing the system to rust out.
After several replacements they put a new one in without the balance tube.
It had a heaps nicer note and stopped rotting out after that but performance didn't change.
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tweety
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| posted on November 1st, 2011 at 06:02 PM |
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thanks for that tip Joel re: balance pipe.. I'll keep it in mind.
getting tune up Thursday. hoping for a good result there.
A better youtube vid might be on the cards maybe with some music this time.
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 Bizarre
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| posted on November 1st, 2011 at 06:25 PM |
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for what it is worth this is my experience with progressives
idles and mains
Primary should be one size smaller than secondary
50 - 55
130 - 135
Air
Primary should be one size smaller
165 - 160
This is because the secondary should be richer and the air is letting air in - not fuel, so it is a size smaller
Futue te ipsum!!!
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General_Failure
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| posted on November 1st, 2011 at 10:12 PM |
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It's one of those things, Bizarre. I read up so much on the Webers. official documentation, book, that sort of thing and scoured the internet for
what people do. The only thing I learned is than nobody can agree on the best way to tune them.
The airs pretty much control when and how much the mains come in. Also don't forget when the secondary opens the vacuum drops so the secondaries have
to compensate for the mixture change. I agree with what you said, but I also have to say that my original jetting which was in the ballpark of "by
the book" was disastrously out of whack. So I took a shot in the dark and tried one of the jettings I found on Ausubaru, which I think I posted
earlier. I didn't get the jetting at all. However I will say it seemed to work quite well. No belching smoke at higher RPM and the idle is a lot more
precise now. Assuming the fuel hasn't evaporated off from sitting for ages, even cold it starts with a quick crank and no throttle.Not even a
pump.
Don't get it one bit. Maybe I was just lucky. But it worked. My only theory is it has something to do with the horribly restrictive manifolds.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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tweety
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| posted on November 4th, 2011 at 08:19 PM |
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got tune up yesterday.
the carbie was working correctly. the kick down wire from the gearbox went to the switch then to the negative of the coil.....wrong! suppose to be
positive.
Hence squeezing that throttle an electrical cut out would occur.
have 76 hp at the flywheel and 60 at the wheels. the auto zaps a fair bit out of it.
more importantly the result now?
achieving around 29mpg - very good and thats city and country driving.
the surpise was the howling the exhaust makes when engine exceeds 4000 rpm. lovely!
another video in couple of weeks. great ocean road Vic
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXwh4z8d66o
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General_Failure
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| posted on November 5th, 2011 at 10:30 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by tweety
got tune up yesterday.
the carbie was working correctly. the kick down wire from the gearbox went to the switch then to the negative of the coil.....wrong! suppose to be
positive.
Hence squeezing that throttle an electrical cut out would occur.
have 76 hp at the flywheel and 60 at the wheels. the auto zaps a fair bit out of it.
more importantly the result now?
achieving around 29mpg - very good and thats city and country driving.
the surpise was the howling the exhaust makes when engine exceeds 4000 rpm. lovely!
another video in couple of weeks. great ocean road Vic
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXwh4z8d66o
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Did you do any internal work to the engine? That's a great figure, and altogether pretty damn good from the wheels too.
For metric people likeme 29mpg is about 8.1L/100km. I don't know how much a trike usually uses so I can't comment
having your kickdown on the coil - would kind of do that, yeah. Glad it's all sorted. Depending on where you tour to I might even end up spotting you
somewhere!
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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