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 Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 19th, 2014 at 12:02 PM |
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Now she's back on her feet he could finish off the back corners. I gave him the rear guards as a template so he know how long to cut them. I also
said just remove that last little bit of drip rail and weld it smooth. It was a bit of a rust trap on my last body.
Finished some more inside welding, the firewall, pillars and trim holes.
Smiley 
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
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| posted on August 19th, 2014 at 12:12 PM |
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Next was the front pillars and hanging the doors.
The first step was cutting out all the bracing which was no longer required.
He managed to get the doors lined up perfectly, which I am very pleased with.
He also repaired the bottoms of the doors which had a few holes and issues. I don't seem to have any pictures of them though.
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on August 19th, 2014 at 12:21 PM |
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Under the bonnet I had a few little brackets cut off, some holes filled and the fresh air vent drain hole cut out and plated, and the original fuse
box hole too.
Finally, here is something I did. Previously I cut the rear tank filler out of the old body. Well I trimmed it up and cut a big hole and fitted it
into the new body one weekend.
That's pretty much it on the bodywork front for now. Still a few other little things to tidy up. Mostly the front nosecone area, dash and rear tanks
mounting.
I also picked up this little critter on the weekend 
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 19th, 2014 at 12:33 PM |
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The next port of call was the floorpan. Firstly cutting off the poor quality, bent, rusty replacement framehead that I welded on a few years back. I
can't stress this enough to everyone. If you are going to change your framehead do not buy a new one! The one I got has just not stood up to the
abuse and the fit and quality were shocking. I have tracked down another factory linkpin framehead and that will be getting fitted. at the same time I
have decided to push it forward a little bit for a tiny bit more tyre clearance and approach angle.
Choppy, choppy. Followed by grindy grindy.
My new framehead starting the strip back.
Pretty soon I had this. And for those (like me) who haven't seen the inside of the framehead before.
After this I cut the uni strut edges off my old pan, in preparation for the fitting of the new lift kit.
That's all for now folks. I will post up some more when I get a chance.
Enjoy and thanks for looking.
Smiley
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nils
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| posted on August 19th, 2014 at 05:47 PM |
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Great t see you back at it smiley
. what's the plan with that heater? Run oil though it?
Quit calling rust patina
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 19th, 2014 at 07:58 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by nils
Great t see you back at it smiley
. what's the plan with that heater? Run oil though it?
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It's not a heater. It's an underdash aircon evaporator 
Smiley
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Smiley
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| posted on August 19th, 2014 at 08:19 PM |
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First thing I did this arvo was remove the lift kit from under the body so I could get it ready to fit to the pan. I also trimmed the cross bracing
off it.
Seems to fit pretty nicely. Next order of business was the lack of hole for the tunnel to go through. Made up a template and transferred it on and
then chopped it out with the grinder.
Fits perfectly.
And sitting back on the pan.
Then all I had to do was trim the new framehead back to the right length ready to weld on. I'm moving the beam forward approximately 65mm so this is
allowed for. Unfortunately that means my cut is straight through the pedal mount holes, so I will have to fill these up too.
Ready to go on tomorrow.
Smiley
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 matberry
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| posted on August 19th, 2014 at 08:46 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
| Quote: | Originally
posted by nils
Great t see you back at it smiley
. what's the plan with that heater? Run oil though it?
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It's not a heater. It's an underdash aircon evaporator
Smiley
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That sounds a bit flash Smiley..... great to see you back and playing Baja's
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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nils
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| posted on August 19th, 2014 at 10:10 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
| Quote: | Originally
posted by nils
Great t see you back at it smiley
. what's the plan with that heater? Run oil though it?
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It's not a heater. It's an underdash aircon evaporator
Smiley
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Air-con in a Baja huh? Guess you'll be wanting somewhere to put your latté next
Quit calling rust patina
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 19th, 2014 at 10:29 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by nils
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Smiley
| Quote: | Originally
posted by nils
Great t see you back at it smiley
. what's the plan with that heater? Run oil though it?
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It's not a heater. It's an underdash aircon evaporator
Smiley
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Air-con in a Baja huh? Guess you'll be wanting somewhere to put your latté next
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Nah. I don't drink coffee, that's for weak people!
And I'm not sure how aircon is girlier than a heater hahahahahaha
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 22nd, 2014 at 08:59 PM |
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I cut my old battery stops and hold downs off the pan. The battery will be getting moved over slightly to make room for some more stuff. Now that I
have the lift kit fitting on the pan I can make sure my extras will actually fit!
First up on the drivers side I'm adding a 600W inverter. It has 2x 240V power points and one USB. Should handle all my needs when camping or
travelling. It will be mounted roughly as pictured and poke through the under backseat kick panel. I'm also going to have enough room here to fit my
dual battery controller.
Next on the other side I will be running a second battery the same as the first to cover my fridge duties. And I also have as ARB air compressor which
will be plumbed in the run the locker and also for reinflating tyres after they are let down. Could probably use it to give the car a blow out too
maybe.
After this I pulled one of the seats and bases down off the shelf so I could get some measurements and order some new seat belts. Had to space it up
the extra to allow for the added height of the lift kit.
I will be making new seat mounts that mount from the tunnel to the lift kit, giving more room underneath for storage.
About the perfect length.
After this I got the pan down off the rolling bench and leveled it up ready to weld the new framehead on.
Getting everything in position.
Then it was off with the lift kit and measure measure measure.
I went and bought an angle finder and used it to measure the castor of the beam. But then I soon realised that this would be wrong due to the uneven
spacing of my beam tubes and link pins. So I measured the angle on the spindle itself and am happy to report that with the floorpan level I have about
3° with the top trailing arm level and it gradually increases with more droop. This is due to the uneven spacing. The angle is about 7° between
there and halfway to full droop, and around 15° at full droop. This is with no stops in place, I don't think it will be drooped down this far once
it's finished.
So all in all I am very happy with the castor.
But then I run into an issue. While measuring the framehead and getting ready to tack it on it seems that the beam is not square there is about 20mm
difference at the ends of the beam when I measure back to the rear torsion housing. Turns out that the issue is the beam bolts on one side have
cracked and are pulling through from the framehead. When you bolt them up tight they are causing a slight hump where the beam sits in. This is enough
to cause a difference of 20mm at the beam ends.
Not sure if you can tell in these pictures but this is the offending side.
Couldn't quite see the cracks under the crud.
Much better.
So I rewelded both sides.
And just to be sure I added a bit of angle to the back to. I never really liked the idea of having those open holes there to let crud in anyway.
Just hit this a little to flatten it so it matches the frame a little better.
And all done!
Now we could get back to the main event!
I got it all back sitting in place again. Took another million measurements then tacked it. Had to tweak it a tiny bit to get the sides even, was out
about 2mm. After that I added some more tacks. Then welded it on.
Sat the lift back in place. Starting to look like a whole floorpan again!
I sat the gearbox in place once more and did a little more working out and measuring.
Next port of call with be getting on with the rack setup and dialing in no bumpsteer. Thanks for reading.
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 23rd, 2014 at 06:27 PM |
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Small update for today. I spent most of the day at a Camping, Offroading, Caravan etc expo so didn't get much done on the car except some figuring
out.
Sat the body on the pan, and I have to say I'm super happy with how it looks. The front shock towers clear with about 30mm to spare which is nice.
And there's heap of room under the rear for the 5 speed.
I put the starter on and measure the clearance to the rear floor. I'm considering recessing the rear tank and dropping it down and it looks like I
will have enough room to do it. This will give me more room in the back of the car for camping gear etc and help lower my centre of gravity down a bit
too.
Next thing was to set the rack in place and measure what angle I need to lay the shaft back at to meet the steering column. I also dropped the front
tank in to check the clearance and there is plenty.
Might use a it more to hold the rack in than magnets though.
That's all for today people. we lifted the body back off and I'm hoping to get stuck into the rack conversion tomorrow.
Smiley
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nils
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| posted on August 24th, 2014 at 10:42 AM |
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Hi smiley
. Even the country buggy spindle changes the castor in comparison to the standard beetle. As a point of reference, my front beam lies back at 6
degrees and I think it is a little far. You can happily drive it at 100km/h+ and barely hang on to the steering wheel, but as a result is a bit
twitchy at under 60km/h.
Quit calling rust patina
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 24th, 2014 at 11:08 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by nils
Hi smiley
. Even the country buggy spindle changes the castor in comparison to the standard beetle. As a point of reference, my front beam lies back at 6
degrees and I think it is a little far. You can happily drive it at 100km/h+ and barely hang on to the steering wheel, but as a result is a bit
twitchy at under 60km/h.
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Yeah. I've mapped how much it changes through the travel and the stock beam location is perfect for me. And the more it droops the more castor it
gets.
Time to go mount that rack!
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 25th, 2014 at 01:24 AM |
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Got some done on the rack conversion.
First step was to make these little brackets. They match the diameter of the beam and the outside of the rack and are the right size to hold my rack
in the right place for no bumpsteer, as far as I have worked out at least.
They got tacked in place on the top beam tube, perpendicular to the front edge of the tubes.
You can see I have a bit of trimming to get the rack in there.
Cut some holes and moved some metal out of the way. Once I got the rack fitting in under there I centred it and set the angle of the input shaft then
tacked it into place on the brackets.
Seemed to be all going well until a major setback. Turns out the angle of the racks ends won't allow them to angle back far enough to go in the
steering arms for some of the steering angle. It's ok when turned away from the side cause the angle decreases. But turn towards a side and it binds
up just past centre. I took a few more measurements and worked out that I had to move that rack back about 10mm to stop the binding, so I made the
decision to more it back 15mm just to be sure.
It was at this point I was thinking the bumpsteer would end up being horrible now and that the rack conversion wasn't going to be the success that I
had hoped for. I remade the little brackets 15mm longer and tacked everything back into place again. Moving the rack back made half of the holes that
I had cut and clearanced into the framehead redundant but that's how it goes I guess.
This time the tie rods fit and the rack ends weren't binding. I could cycle the suspension up and down and full lock on the steering left to right.
Then I tried to measure the bumpsteer and came to an unusual conclusion, there wasn't any!
This can't be right I thought to myself. The rack is 15mm from where it is supposed to be, I should have some discernible bumpsteer. I decided that I
was trying to measure on too fine a scale on the spindles. So I dug the front discs and bearings out and fitted them up. And then fitted the front
wheels. Did a rough wheel alignment and cycled the front suspension up and down and took more measurements.
I ended up with about 2mm of toe variation at the outer edge of the wheel in 12 inches of travel, except right at full droop it goes a bit funny right
in the last half inch and gets about 6mm toe out. But I don't foresee this as a problem cause the stops will limit travel before this point.
I couldn't believe it and obviously was very happy with this result!!
Full droop to full bump is around 300mm (12") of travel. It will probably be limited to around 250mm (10") once I set the stops up. Ground clearance
will be awesome once again, it will still easily clear a milk crate at ride height. It clears one and a half at full droop!!
I can't wait to take her for a drive and see how she steers!!
Thanks for reading.
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 25th, 2014 at 01:30 AM |
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I have a bit of a tech query for any Mk I Golf experts out there.
That rack I am fitting to the Baja is out of a Mk I Golf and I am wondering if there is meant to be anything else holding the rack ends onto the
shaft. It's a fine thread and does up tight. Is this all that is done to fit them on or is there a narrow lock nut that goes on the end?
If anyone that has an early Golf knows can you let me know?
Smiley
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on August 25th, 2014 at 10:13 AM |
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Looks good. You're going to brace those shock towers, right?
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on August 25th, 2014 at 11:19 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by pete wood
Looks good. You're going to brace those shock towers, right?
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Yeah. Couldn't work out the size of the gusset plate until I dropped the body on to make sure it cleared.
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on September 7th, 2014 at 07:35 PM |
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Look what I picked up this week. I had always planned to bag the back of the car later done the track. But these came up at a great price so I
couldn't pas them up. And I figure that it'll be easier to fit and plumb them now anyway with the rest of the build.
Full droop.
Full bump.
Will keep you posted
Smiley
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baghall
Custom Title Time!
Ben Hal Outlaw Bushranger
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| posted on September 9th, 2014 at 02:27 PM |
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That's all too much work for me Smiley!
Keep up the good work mate!
68 Baja - It's a growing pain!
58 Baja ute - and the pain spreads!
85 T3 Kombi - still growing
89 T3 Kombi - parts car
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modnrod
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| posted on October 6th, 2014 at 02:37 PM |
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WOW!!!
I've just spent 4 or 5 goes and a week at the whole thread, and it's a beauty. 
What an adventure, onya mate! 
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on October 19th, 2014 at 02:15 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by modnrod
WOW!!!
I've just spent 4 or 5 goes and a week at the whole thread, and it's a beauty.
What an adventure, onya mate!
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Thanks dude.
Still plenty of work to go yet!
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
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| posted on June 22nd, 2015 at 08:14 PM |
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It has been a while. Time for an update, even if it is a small one.
I purchased a dual handle cutting brake. I'm planning to mount the cylinders behind the handbrake and the pivots for the handles directly in front of
the handbrake. Then I have to extend the rods only a small amount and they should fit either side of the stock handbrake mount.
Next up I did some work making rack mounts on top of my framehead. I made two clamps that go over the thinnest section of the rack. And then added
some flat on the outer sides which extends out to the larger sections to stop the rack sliding side to side in the mount. Then I joined both the sides
with a piece of flat across the top.
I also had to make some locknuts for the rack ends by buying the correct thread size of nut and then cutting a piece off.
Then I made another strap to go around one of the stock mounts over the 'gearbox' on the rack.
When I had the body on I measured up and worked out what size of gusset I needed to add to the shock towers. I ended up cooking the bearings while
welding things out. But that's ok because I bought new ones. I just slide hammered the old ones out with a cut down washer.
Next port of call was to flip the pan and cut the bottom off the tunnel. I removed the clutch tube as I am going hydraulic. I also ended up removing
the accelerator cable tube too as I will replace it.
Ok. Time for something more constructive. Time to fit the lift kit to the pan!
I also drilled the holes in the rear of the lift kit. This is where my aircon hoses and oil cooler lines will come out the back.
Pan all prepped ready for the lift kit.
I took the lift kit and had it sandblasted. Way quicker than trying the clean it up with a grinder. Then I painted it all up with weld through
primer.
Fitted it in place. Made sure it was all centred and the welded it out.
Smiley
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on June 22nd, 2015 at 08:57 PM |
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Next up was seats and seat belt mounts.
I am fitting retracting seatbelts to the car. Where I have put the mounts they tuck inside the C of the lift kit out of the way.
And then onto seat frames. I built square frames with crush tubes for the mount bolts and then welded the mounting nuts to the underside.
And then I built a jig frame to mount the seats at the correct height and angle I wanted. Cause I have an 80mm lift I needed to raise the seats by at
least the same amount. I raised the front a little more than the rear too, to get a little more angle back in the seat. Helps stop you sliding off the
front in steed hill decents.
These are the outer mounting plates welded into place on the lift kit. The nuts on the back are also welded to aid in assembly.
And there are the ones on the tunnel. The plates have a thread tapped into them But it's only 6mm thick, so I will weld nuts on the inside of the
tunnel too, next time it is turned over.
Then you just have to sit the seat frame in place, measure a million things to work out where you want it. And then make 4 legs to mate it to the
mounting plates.
Then your seats mount up like so! Of course One had to sit in it and make brrmm brrmmm noises. I also fitted up a gearstick to see what it is like
(Bus one)
I am very happy with how they have turned out. Plenty of room underneath. I'm planning to fit sliding drawers underneath to store parts/tools/gear
in. They are actually high enough to fit a 20L jerry can under! Not that I plan on carrying additional fuel in such a manner, but it is cool anyway
Alright! Next up is mounting the 5 speed and airbags.
First was the front gearbox mount. I got some longer case bolts and stainless crush tube and started fabbing.
Front mount done! Might be a few more strengthening plates to add but it fits and works well.
Rear mounts were made using some of my old stuff and some new stuff. I have still got to add a bit of angle to make them double shear. Notice I am
using the same mount all the way around. That way I only have to carry one spare. I am also going to fit them either side on my engine cradle too. And
the 5 speed fits where it was never meant to go!
Bags next. I made clamps to fit them to the trailing arms.
One little snag I ran into was where to run my handbrake cables. Previously I had them run over the top of the trailing arm unlike stock where they
are run under. I found that at full droop the trailing arm was pulling on the cable and jagging the brakes a little bit. But I can't run them over
the top now cause the bag mount is in the way. How's that old bear hunt saying go? Can't go over them, can't go under them, will have to go through
them!! So I drilled a few holes and ran some stout 3mm wall crush tubing through the trailing arms as a new home for the handbrake cables.
Time to throw the body on and make the upper airbag frame.
Also through a wheel on and checked out full compression. As the pan is sitting now is where I plan to have ride height. She's going to be big! Also,
plenty of room for 33s now 
That's all for now people. But I will try and keep the progress moving.
Thanks for reading.
Smiley
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pete wood
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| posted on June 22nd, 2015 at 09:27 PM |
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tasty
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adlbeetle66
A.k.a.: Denver
Custom Title Time!
Under the car.........again!
Posts: 1476
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Location: Capalaba, Brisbane, QLD
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| posted on June 24th, 2015 at 05:47 PM |
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
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Registered: October 29th, 2008
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Location: Yeppoon, Central Queensland
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| posted on June 25th, 2015 at 11:09 PM |
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While I had the body sitting on the pan I decided to cut the rear shelf out for my rear tank. I'm going to recess it down this time. So it will be
much the same as the front tank. With a large hole that the tank fills and seals.
For those of you that don't know I was running a Bay Kombi tank in the rear as my main tank and using the stock front tank as a secondary. It sat in
this frame here and there was a little hole cut in the rear floor for the outlet on the tank.
First thing was drill out the spot welds and remore the front lip. And just when you think you have gotten all the rust 
And then cut a big hole for the tank!
Tried the tank in the whole but it wasn't quite sitting down all the way on one side.
One big concern that I had was clearance to the airbag frame and to the starter motor. But I'm happy to report that there is heaps of room to both of
them.
Turns out the tank was hitting on one of the shock lumpy bits on the LHS. So I enlarged the hole in it a little and the tank fits down perfectly
now!
Then I went back inside and took the edges of the hole all the way to the wheel wells so I can start on a frame for the tank.
Now that that was all sorted the body came back off and out of the way. I can do the tank mount with the body off, now that I know it will clear
everything.
I welded some extra strengthening plates onto my bag mount.
First was this little tab. Which picks up one of the holes cast into the shock tower. Perfect size for an M12 bolt
Next up I added this angle which ties in to the upper shock mount. These were all welded out once I got them fitting nicely. But it seems I didn't
get a picture. Perhaps tomorrow.
Last thing for today was strip the box, rear arms and everything off the pan. Gave it a good sweep down and flipped it. Ready for tomorrow which
involves all these pretty pieces
Thanks for reading.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
Posts: 2125
Threads: 110
Registered: October 29th, 2008
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Location: Yeppoon, Central Queensland
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: Synchro'd
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| posted on June 29th, 2015 at 10:39 PM |
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I decided that I would need to sort my shift linkage out before running any of the stuff in the tunnel. It is one thing that will need to be in there
so I don't run hoses through where it is going to be. I will also need to fit the pedals too and make sure everything clears them in the tunnel as
well.
So flip the pan back over and refit the box. Then cut a hole in the lift for the shift linkage.
Ran into a bit of clearance issue on the top of the framehorn. Had to do a small amount of 'reshaping'.
After that it all hooked up as planned and I fitted a gearstick and 'seat' so I could try it out. For those that haven't read the older posts on
here, the shift linkage is part VW and part Holden Commodore steering linkage. The shift rod is slightly shorted than stock and has the spline off the
top of the Holden steering rack welded into it. The Holden steering shaft clamps tightly onto the Weddle linkage and then slides over the splined end
on the shift rod. Happy to report that I can get all the gears pretty easily. Reverse takes a tiny bit of extra wiggling but I haven't adjusted
anything yet. Also there is no shift rod bushing fitted in the front mount behind the gearstick. Plus nothing is lubricated either.
Still a little bit of clearancing to do around the hole. I also have to enlarge it enough for the uni joints on the shaft to fit through.
Thanks for looking.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
Veteran Volks Folk
Posts: 2125
Threads: 110
Registered: October 29th, 2008
Member Is Offline
Location: Yeppoon, Central Queensland
Theme: UltimaBB Pro Blue
Mood: Synchro'd
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| posted on August 5th, 2015 at 08:23 PM |
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Made up a spacer for the Kombi shifter out of 8mm plate. Fits nicely now and shifts quite good for having no front shifter bushing in. I was thinking
of trimming the bus shifter down, but now it has grown on me. I put both the seats in with a passenger and tested how the gearstick cleared everything
with both seats forward and backward in different spots and two people sitting on them. Happy to say it clears everything very nicely. And I like the
height. So I might stick with it yet.
I purchased a heap of stauff clamps for everything that is going in the tunnel. You can remove the think upper plate and bolt and replace them with an
allen socket bolt which is countersunk into the plastic. Saves space inside the tunnel (which is at a premium these days!!) and saves some weight too.
Because I am not using the clamps for high pressure hydraulic lines the single bolt will be quite adequate.
T3 pedal assembly was robbed of its clutch master cylinder to use in the car. I figured this would be the simplest and easiest way to go as it matches
the slave cylinder on the box and the bits are all from the same car. Bored a hole in the lift kit where the brake M/C was originally mounted. Then
made up a mount out of some angle and tacked it in place so I could work the pedal side of things out.
Then the brake m/c was moved over to give sufficient room. More holes drilled.
I added a new pivot to the brake pedal that I stole off another set. You can see the stock one is still on the left side of the pedal. This one will
be cut off and moved over to the clutch pedal for the clutch M/C. Fitted the pin and pedal travel is exactly as it should be.
Dropped the body on to check a few things. Fitted the seat in the car for the first time. Happy to say that the height is absolutely perfect for me.
It is exactly where I want it. Pedals feel good underfoot too.
The seat has plenty of room to the door too which is good.
Need to work out where I am going to fit the fill reservoir. Probably somewhere under the bonnet that will go down to both the M/Cs.
Last thing I started thinking about/playing around with is fitting a hanging accelerator pedal. Here is one I had lying about from a Commodore. Jury
is still out at the moment. I think it won't take much to fit up and connect. I just like the idea of less stuff on the floor and not having the
pedal hinge seize up/fill up with sand and crap etc.
Thanks for looking
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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bevelhead
Seriously Crusin Dubber
Posts: 161
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Registered: August 18th, 2008
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Location: Cremorne TAS
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| posted on August 29th, 2015 at 01:04 AM |
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Great ongoing build mate, i enjoy seeing your engineering solutions every month or so when i check back on progress
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