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 roverv8bay
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| posted on November 7th, 2013 at 05:19 AM |
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G'day all. Picking up a complete discovery 3.9 litre injected motor tomorrow. it has a stand alone engine harness apparently it only needs power to
it everything to run the motor is in 1 piece. I have been working on the beam again set it up in a jig I made to correspond with the plates I need to
have cut to suit the increase between them. Whwn VW did the mule it lookslike they spread them & plated in th cut as it has 2 bump stop arms it
would be quick to do it that way but will have to check with Engineer what he wants. I have booked for valla 14 bit late to get into valla itself but
in another park at least. I may trailer ECLECTIC down if its not running wishful thinking. all for now
ernie
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roverv8bay
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| posted on December 19th, 2013 at 04:57 PM |
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G'day all this is the rear hub spacer to allow for thrust in cv joints due to the width of commodore diff & spacers. they are 12mm thick & by
having 6 holes it lets me do 9cm lift with out resetting arms. will be bolting tube between bottom bolt holes & under bottom of inner arm.
all for now
have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year everyone
ernie
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roverv8bay
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| posted on February 7th, 2014 at 08:48 AM |
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G'day all. not much happening at tthe time being I have torn my right rotator cuff could have been the left. changed the seats to a full set of 4
bucket & rear out of kia carnivale.
$30.00. The next project for it is fitting a set of mitsubishi delica overlap wipers they sweep to the very edge of the screen so will set up on a
stuffed front panel It's light work not heavy lifting. I'm currently working on the new carport so I can bring ECLECTIC home from the gold coast so
I can put some time into IT. been working sorting out the 3 piece tailshaft for the front diff in original position not enough ground clearence about
8" in centre of vehicle so getting 1 made to come around the sump instead of under it pics when i get it sorted. I will have to shorten sump as well
but loss of capacity will be tzaken up in the double oilcoolers & remote filter. Once the drive train is in it's final place will be sorting out
a oil cooler & pump for both the transmisions lots of fittings & hose. picked up a vt v8 radiator complete with fans relays will mount it to
the front bar wont look pretty but will be effeciant. I'm going down to sydney to spend 3 days at Jeff dellows to sort out the adapter plates to suit
rover v8 & v6 commodore motors to subarugears boxes for the kombi's. hopefully there will be some market for the v6 it will make good vehicle
better.
ernie
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roverv8bay
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| posted on March 17th, 2014 at 08:54 PM |
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G'day all. well ECLECTIC arrived in Nambour from the goldie today. tomorrow's task is unloading it & setting up the new work area & 7 meter
Pantech workshop. then I can get down to business. looking at IY out of the shed I may not need to lift it as the only weight will be the commodore
diff centre & fuel tank. I will see how it looks by stacking equivalent weight on top of engine bay. I think I will need extra hard shocks to take
the torsion bounce out of it. Any suggestions gratefully considered. If anyone is around Nambour & would like to drop in pm me home most
day's.
ernie
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Doug Sweetman
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| posted on March 18th, 2014 at 12:23 AM |
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Ernie - killer stuff mate, keep it up !
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roverv8bay
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| posted on March 19th, 2014 at 05:26 PM |
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G'day Doug. Thanks for dropping in. I had solar fitted to house today no power so I spent a couple of hours setting the rear diff insitu to get an
idea of space for the radiator I thought it may have been to wide but plenty of room the cap even comes out under the engine hatch so nice position to
fill the expansion bottle will fit onto the side bracket for the fans. have the rear diff in place it will need a beetle axle on the left side to
allow for the off set in the pinion. I looks like I won't need the spacers for the rear hub's but may still use them for the lift. I don't know
what to do for the airflow out of the old engine bay as far as having the radiator in there. louver's & mesh really make the hatch look shonky so
will have to wait & see
all the best
ernie
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roverv8bay
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| posted on March 31st, 2014 at 07:37 PM |
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G;'day all. spent a couple of hours locating the alternator as the only room I have for it is under the side of the sump at dirt & water level so
I have decided to run a drive shaft with the alternator pulley fitted to the front of it off the front crank pulley & located by self aligning
bearings then bolted to aluminium blocks welded to the rover aluminium valve covers then attached to 100amp subi alternator by a rubber steering
couple connector the shaft will run just above the injectors on the right side of the motor the shaft is being machined next week. pics when it's
all back together.
ernie
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roverv8bay
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| posted on April 3rd, 2014 at 07:58 PM |
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G'day all. started building a dual battery carrier to mount behind the radiator in the old engine bay. it will slide in on tracks. need to get some
weight over the rear axles to substitute for lack of any drive train. the diff weighs about half of the gear box so bugger all. engineer suggested
aluminium shaft for the alternator so picked up 20mm x mtr long $20.00 cheap for what it is. was given an aussie desert cooler radiator today freebie
so will look at using it instead of the thinner commodore unit. will post some pics next week.
ernie
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roverv8bay
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| posted on April 15th, 2014 at 05:39 PM |
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G'day all. spent some time fitting towbar off rodeo needs slight trim on the brackets to allow it to move up about 40mm. I have to move the tyre
mount toward the centre to clear the tail lamp still enough room for engine hatch to open. Also setting up remote rear mounted alternator. I need to
make a bracket to mount the front bearing above the timing case the shaft will be 20mm aluminium with a rubber steering coupling between shaft &
alternator.
ernie
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roverv8bay
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| posted on April 15th, 2014 at 06:29 PM |
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more pics of the alternator set for making brackets.
ernie
after with tyre moved to centre then rattle can reconditioning
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roverv8bay
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| posted on April 29th, 2014 at 05:33 PM |
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G'day all. forgot to mention the silver object on the floor is a Holden Astra electric power steering pump. I'm thinking about mounting it under
the front floor & putting cap up thru the hole left when I pull out the heater tube from floor to dash this will give easy access to fill fluid
also put washer bottle filler in beside it & make a cover. The heater is from under the front seat in a 60 series land cruiser nice & compact
will fit behind the dash has its own tap so can use the original kombi cable assembly to turn flow on. I plan on removing the complete dash assembly
next week to start fitting up the Tarago brake & clutch cylinders along with the L300 steering column. I'm looking at the taillights as far as
the reversing light being blocked may French in some LEDS that are shorter thus moving the reversing light up. Making slow progress on the engine side
as the Engineer has been on holidays but hope to get the alternator shaft done. the rear tailshaft is finished pick up on Thursday I think it ended up
about 20cms long lucky the diff centre is fixed minimal movement between transfer case & diff. All for now
ernie
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roverv8bay
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| posted on May 15th, 2014 at 12:48 PM |
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G'day all. Thanks to Todd for helping me with some cad drawings the spread beam end plates will be ready to pick up from the water jet cutters in
Caloundra next Thursday so I can finally make up the beam mounts for the power steering & the front diff mount. this is the last major bit of
sorting & construction now it's the matter of bolting it altogether. put the rear tailshaft in it's a good fit so far just have to get under for
a bit longer to check angles on axle shaft out to the hub.
ernie
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roverv8bay
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| posted on May 18th, 2014 at 03:48 PM |
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G'day all laying under ECLECTIC after fitting rear tailshaft decided to move the front diff centre over towards left side by 10cm's this will allow
me to run the front tailshaft up beside the sump instead of underneath it this will give me an extra 10cm's clearance under the motor so well worth
the time involved in setting up mounts for the centre bearing may et away with 2 piece shaft but have enough bit's if it needs to be 3 piece post
some pics tomorrow.
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roverv8bay
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| posted on May 20th, 2014 at 07:46 PM |
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G'day all. had a trial run with my new plasma cutter to trim the end plate assemblies off ECLECTICS beam set up have to love the ease of use &
lack of flame & heat. sorted out the template for v6 commodore to Subaru 5speed today taking it to Sydney to see about costings to have them made.
Then off to nationals on Saturday morning.
ernie
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roverv8bay
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| posted on May 22nd, 2014 at 07:44 PM |
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G'day all couple of pics to give kombi owners an idea of the Subaru to v6 commodore motor & the beam plates 12mm thick fit was tight had run
small grind stone around the internal of the beam holes but will give an idea spread extra 8cm's between tubes.
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vlad01
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| posted on May 23rd, 2014 at 10:18 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by roverv8bay
G'day all couple of pics to give kombi owners an idea of the Subaru to v6 commodore motor & the beam plates 12mm thick fit was tight had run
small grind stone around the internal of the beam holes but will give an idea spread extra 8cm's between tubes.
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Now we're talking! 
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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roverv8bay
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| posted on May 29th, 2014 at 03:24 PM |
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G'day vlad01 what are e talking the v6 or the suspension mods if it's the v6 the template is with the manufacturer to check it out found it will
need a flywheel also this will be cnc machined out of solid so it will use all the original Subaru clutch assembly & bolt up to the v6 crank.
I have been working on the other side plate today just have to fit all the t/bars the arms & spindles to line up then weld then bolt in so fingers
crossed it lifts it like I anticipate it should.
ernie
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vlad01
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| posted on May 29th, 2014 at 10:14 PM |
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was referring to the V6.
just a heads up on the flywheel, these use a counter weighted flywheel and there are like 6 different sizing in the counterweights and the flywheel is
indexed via one slightly offset bolt hole, almost impossible to see unless you look at it for ages at different orientations.
Dellow's conversions have lots of experience with billet flywheels for these engines. I am guessing you are using them to do the flywheel and
adapter?
If this combo goes ahead, there is massive potential for this type of conversion coz the engines are so well designed and bullet proof.
I know of a few builders of these engines that will surprise you on what you can get out of them for relative little money. But even in stock form
with a good tune on the ECU will pull a 1400kg 0-100 in the 6-7 sec bracket, possibly faster given the diff of the suby box is quite short ratio.
if you need help on the EFI/ECU side of V6 conversions, I can hook you up with the goods and knowledge to do it right.
I'd love to see any updates on the V6 conversion you may have in the future.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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roverv8bay
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| posted on May 30th, 2014 at 08:23 AM |
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G'day vlad01. correct in every respect. I Have know Jeff for 42 years & been looking at this since Todd developed the best thing to happen in
our little world of VW ever. having spoken to Todd before sticking my head on a block he was more than happy for me to follow up on it. so here here
is what it will require an adapter plate
similar to what Todd has developed to bolt VW motor to subi box flywheel to suit v6 & complete subi clutch then your on your way to reliability in
the drive chain shame v6 is heavy it would be nice in type 3's. Off to the shed now to finish setting up ECLECTICS beam plates
ernie
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roverv8bay
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| posted on May 30th, 2014 at 08:26 AM |
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PS vlad will keep you updated plus thankyou for your offer the ecu side can be yours to do with as you wish if I takes off you get the work if you
want it for that nightmare.
ernie
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vlad01
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| posted on May 30th, 2014 at 10:26 AM |
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yes the engine is a bit heavy, but not ridiculously heavy.
I worked out complete engine with unnecessary bits tossed for a vw conversion should be around high 150kg mark.
could drop it further using aftermarket alloy heads and alloy "I" beam rods. Naturally you toss the balance shaft and gears, which drop 3kg or
so.
I have thought a lot about dumping one in my notch, fitment is good actually, more compact than the stock engine in length and width, just taller.
weight is the issue, higher COG and fair bit more Kg swinging around corners so I am saving my pennies for a much more expensive and complicated suby
donk conversion instead. But these are perfect in vw buses as they have better weight distribution already and being heavier the engine has less %
change to the total weight and distribution.
the simplicity of them and the engine management system are in my opinion 2nd to none. The flexibility and tuneability of the management system with
few minor mods to the ECU and custom code surpasses all the aftermarket ECUs in so many ways. Its one of the many reasons these have been a choice of
engine conversion for just about every other car except the VW.
Yeah leave the management stuff to me if you like, piece of cake!
the best thing about the suby box is the VSS. will come so handy for the ECU side of things. The gear ratios are pretty good for the V6 except for the
diff. 3.9 is still too short, 3.45-3.27 will be good for hauling weight, 3.08 is ideal.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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roverv8bay
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| posted on May 30th, 2014 at 10:18 PM |
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G'day all. the beam plates fitted now to assemble & fit
ernie
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roverv8bay
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| posted on June 17th, 2014 at 06:52 PM |
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G'day all. After looking at the rear bar I not happy with it so going to shorten it up & move the spindle carrying the arm over towards the
centre so as not to cover the taillights originally I was going to fit some in the bar but I determined that it would look shitey. so out comes the
cut off machine tomorrow & drill some new holes.
the rear disc assemblies are finally sorted out for position & alignment so back to engineers to have them drilled then I can fit them up.
ernie
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Subarugears
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| posted on June 18th, 2014 at 09:09 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
yes the engine is a bit heavy, but not ridiculously heavy.
I worked out complete engine with unnecessary bits tossed for a vw conversion should be around high 150kg mark.
could drop it further using aftermarket alloy heads and alloy "I" beam rods. Naturally you toss the balance shaft and gears, which drop 3kg or
so.
I have thought a lot about dumping one in my notch, fitment is good actually, more compact than the stock engine in length and width, just taller.
weight is the issue, higher COG and fair bit more Kg swinging around corners so I am saving my pennies for a much more expensive and complicated suby
donk conversion instead. But these are perfect in vw buses as they have better weight distribution already and being heavier the engine has less %
change to the total weight and distribution.
the simplicity of them and the engine management system are in my opinion 2nd to none. The flexibility and tuneability of the management system with
few minor mods to the ECU and custom code surpasses all the aftermarket ECUs in so many ways. Its one of the many reasons these have been a choice of
engine conversion for just about every other car except the VW.
Yeah leave the management stuff to me if you like, piece of cake!
the best thing about the suby box is the VSS. will come so handy for the ECU side of things. The gear ratios are pretty good for the V6 except for the
diff. 3.9 is still too short, 3.45-3.27 will be good for hauling weight, 3.08 is ideal.
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I know you LOVE the V6 Commodore motor but I just can NOT understand why you would want to put one in a VW with a Subie trans when you have a 3.0L or
3.6L flat 6 Subie to use. By your own admission the Commie V6 is heavier and taller and so will be an issue to fit with a flat decklid. Then you have
to pay for an adaptor plate and flywheel on top which will run atleast $1000. That certainly makes any 'cheap' Commie motor more expensive than a
Subie flat 6 - which are very cheap to acquire anyway. And the drivetrain taller and longer. Makes no sense to me. And a series 1 Commie motor put out
165hp with an EZ36 Subie putting out 260hp. Even the old EZ30 put out 245hp (series 2) and 220hp (series 1).
You also discuss gearing but you are only looking at diff gearing, wanting a 3.08. You need to look at the combination of top gear (5th in the Subie
at 0.73) and the diff ratio and then also look at the wheel and tyre size. You might find it is actually very well suited. It's certainly perfectly
suited for the Subie motor's torque curve  But anyway this is the
beauty of custom cars - you can build whatever you want.
Given I already make an LSX adaptor plate for Subie gearboxes, you may find that this fits the V6 Commie motor as well - it's the turbo bolt pattern
so I assume that's what's needed as Commies run TH700's. I also make flywheels for the LSX V8 to suit Subie boxes - I wonder how close they would
be to bolting onto your beloved V6 Commie?
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vlad01
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| posted on June 18th, 2014 at 11:50 AM |
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i'll tell ya why I like those engine.
cheap
bullet proof, suby are too but going nothing on these comparing side by side. You can blow the block apart and still start first go and drive them
around lol 
simple and way less to go wrong.
economical, more than suby surprisingly.
mods and parts galore that aint ricer or china made.
management system one of the best out there and very well documented, not to mention continuous improvements in code.
massive potential to make more power and torque.
can take boost right out of the box while doubling the output reliably.
and much more!
what one could ask more for a $500 engine?
Don't get me wrong, I would prefer a flat 6 just for the sound and low COG but I don't like the idea of such an obscure engine that little info
exists about it and the oil consumption problem that is common for the EZ.
I think the EJ is a better all rounder.
As for the gearing, looked at gears and tyres, gearing is good(almost same as stock T5), tyres are fine but diff way to low range. The engine would be
screaming at around 3k @ 100, even more @ 110
The thing is over 90% of the toque is developed at only 1200rpm and peaks at 3600rpm. These engine accelerate faster by lugging them at low rpm
range. They pull like tractors on steroids.
If it was me I would only consider putting a v6 in a kombi as they fit nice and weights not an issue. Like I said earlier, they are dimensionally very
good.
I never plan on having a kombi...... unless?? 
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Subarugears
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| posted on June 19th, 2014 at 01:48 AM |
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cheap - yeah the Series 1's are cheap but have 100hp less than the comparable Subie and once you add the adaptor plate and flywheel they are way way
more expensive
bullet proof, suby are too but going nothing on these comparing side by side. Bullshit
You can blow the block apart and still start first go and drive them around lol And more bullshit
simple and way less to go wrong. Er...it has pistons, a cam, two heads and valves, 6 injectors and 6 spark plugs. Almost exactly the same. SO...no -
not way less to go wrong. In fact the bloody thing has followers and pushrods - so maybe it is actually more complicated
economical, more than suby surprisingly. Er...NO....the VT commodore gets 12.0 L/100 in the city in an auto and the EZ36 Outback gets 10.3L/100km in
an auto.
mods and parts galore that aint ricer or china made. You would need mods and parts galore seeing as you're 100hp down. Having to do mods and buy
parts doesn't make it a cheap motor anymore does it?! And the aftermarket area for Subaru isn't big is it...made by quality Japanese companies like
Tomei and Jun...oh and Cosworth.
management system one of the best out there and very well documented, not to mention continuous improvements in code. Big Deal, Subaru runs Denso,
the same as pretty much all Japanese manufacturers use. Ultra-reliable, failsafe, self_learning, self-tuning. Open source software available with tons
of maps to download free.
massive potential to make more power and torque. Yeah..coz a turbo EZ30 making 1000hp with twin turbos isn't enough....
can take boost right out of the box while doubling the output reliably. It needs to double its power just to match the stock Subie...there goes your
$500 budget again...out the window..
and much more! Nothin to see here.
what one could ask more for a $500 engine? Power, fuel economy, smoothness, light weight, packaging for a start.
I can't understand why you would say the Subie 6 is an obscure engine with little info existing about it. Are you kidding me? They make hundreds of
thousands of these every year to sell all around the world! Pretty good chance Subaru's 6 cylinder production is more than Commodore's. Total
Commodore sales in 2013 were 27,766..and that includes the V8 models. Subaru sold 808,919 cars globally last year including 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder
models.
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vlad01
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| posted on June 19th, 2014 at 10:42 AM |
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haha more suby h6 engines made?
hello?, buick v6 has and still holds the largest number of one engine ever produced. 25+ million! units were made world wide.
they won ward's best 10 engine on a few occasions. They were renown as one of the best of all time engine designs, renown for reliability, low
maintenance, efficiency!
We took one to the test. 1080Km on a 68L tank from full to dead empty. That averaged (yes average! not, peak, peak was like 4.5L) 6.2L/100 for a 1.7
ton car with slush box and 235 wide tyres.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Subarugears
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| posted on June 19th, 2014 at 05:13 PM |
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Wow that's a lot of boat anchors!
1960's Buick V6 front wheel drive is not Commodore is it, so your figures are highly innacurate.
You're talking about $500 Commodore motors, not other stuff you can't get your hands on.
I call B.S. on your fuel figures. Amazing how manufacturers with billions of dollars cannot get those sorts of amazing fuel figures but you backyard
blokes can magically achieve the, with a slush box no less. If only you could have got a job at Holden, you might have saved their local production
with your skillz :-)
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roverv8bay
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Registered: January 30th, 2013
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| posted on June 19th, 2014 at 07:06 PM |
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Good evening all. seems we have a debate going on. Anyway here's pics of the spread beam just have to fit the other disc assembly. the wheels to set
it up in ECLECTIC
the beam tubes rotate with tolerance so I can move the spindles up 7 down to set the angle on the balljoints so they aren't under load. then have to
centre the tubes spot weld tues to plates the disassemble & get the tailshaft guys to weld it. I hope to be able to modify the kombi steering arm
to use on the rack this let me use 2 kombi adjustable drag links on it
ernie
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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Mad fabricator, paint and body
Posts: 7386
Threads: 312
Registered: September 1st, 2002
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Location: In the garage chopping cars into bits
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Mood: In the thinking chair
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| posted on June 19th, 2014 at 07:34 PM |
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My opininion is that you are looking way out of the common box and that your ideas are groundbreaking. I hope you are enjoying the ride. Keeping your
mind active. I do similar things with car bodies. There are a lot of 'standard custom' ways to modify the body of a car, however there are some
different ways that people customise that I give great credit too, and that includes car bodywork, paint work and drivetrain engineering.
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