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 dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on March 31st, 2006 at 08:57 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dangerous
The best I can hope for in the current trim is a pass in the 11.4s,
[ Edited on 31-3-2006 by dangerous ]
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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humpty
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| posted on March 31st, 2006 at 09:02 PM |
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LOL!
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humpty
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| posted on March 31st, 2006 at 09:04 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by choppa
Old scool , new scool!
Night scool is the best
yeah
And why arnt you painting the verandah humpty
instead of wasting bandwidth on here
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Hey bro....Its tough to paint the verandah at night!
u finished the roof yet? ;-)
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on March 31st, 2006 at 09:04 PM |
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Back to work!
Got my pushrods back from Rene in Adelaide and just need to assemble them (& the engine!)
I have chamfered some new bearings to clear the radii of the crank.
These are normal 351 main bearings that are narrowed and chamfered in the lathe, and drilled to match the oil passages in the case.
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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humpty
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| posted on March 31st, 2006 at 09:12 PM |
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Are those tapered Ali PRods Dave?
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on March 31st, 2006 at 09:14 PM |
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I made up a split jig to hold the bearings in the lathe without damaging them (photo later). I then narrowed
them as required and turned a 30 degree chamfer to clear the 4mm radii.
In these photos you can also see the roll pin that I fitted to stop the bearings from shifting laterally.
In theory the crush fit in the tunnel should stop this, but in my blown combo this was a problem
that lead to radius riding of the bearing as it shifted along the tunnel.
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on March 31st, 2006 at 09:19 PM |
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The pushrods are MEGA wall (4mm thick wall!) chrome-moly that I taper turned and then had heat treated to 40rc, by rene in Adelaide...he's a Volksy
dude so I got special service.
I posted some info on these in the tech section I think.
Oh. My mistake...it's right here in the dragracing section.
[ Edited on 31-3-2006 by dangerous ]
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on April 4th, 2006 at 07:21 PM |
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Main Bearing Holding Jig.
Here is the jig I made to chamfer the main bearings.
The bearings are bolted into this jig, and then set up in the lathe
and each shell is chamfered as required ...30 degree angle seems to be best comprimise for clearance and support on the back for heat transfer.
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on April 4th, 2006 at 07:26 PM |
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Here are the rod bearings all chamfered.
I did this with a plunge cut in our rod boring machine.
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on April 4th, 2006 at 07:29 PM |
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Here you can see how wide these 454 chev bearings were.
All that needs to be done now is the de-burring, and final check of the oil clearance.
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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humpty
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| posted on April 4th, 2006 at 07:33 PM |
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Very clever stuff!... How the hell do you come up with this sorta stuff?
Silly question I know.... Its what you do.... It still blows me away though Dave!
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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| posted on April 5th, 2006 at 05:33 PM |
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Ahhhh....... its the old adage Humpty........"necessity is the mother of invention"
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 06:49 AM |
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Checking the con-rod oil clearance.
After mounting the bearings into the rods, and tensioning the rod bolts to the correct spec,
(in this case, 75 ftlbs, with moly lube to achieve .006" stretch)
I measure each conrod journal on the crankshaft.
And then for each one, I lock the micrometer, and then set the dial bore guage, to zero on that mic' setting.
This will be done for every journal and its corresponding rod.
I will then insert this guage into the mounted bearings to see what clearance I have.
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 07:01 AM |
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This first photo shows the head if the bore guage being inserted into the mounted bearings.
On the other end of this is the dial guage that will tell me the clearance that I have on the journal.
In this case I have .003".
This crankshaft and conrod was originally set up to run in my blown combo, so this oil clearance is larger than I need but acceptable.
For this type of application I would prefer 2.25 to 2.5 thou of clearance.
This can be corrected by using one bearing shell from a .001" set
(chev stuff has all sorts of sizes available for custom tayloring oil clearances),
thus reducing the oil clearance by half a thou.
Or I can mount up some .010" bearings and regrind the crank
to give the desired oil clearance at the new undersize....but that would be unneccesary
in this case and a lot of work for less than a thou.
UPDATE!... I found another brand of bearing in the standard size that gave me a little less clearance
so now the oil clearance on all of the big-end journals is 2.4 and 2.7 thou....just where I would like it.
[ Edited on 18-4-2006 by dangerous ]
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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humpty
Bishop of Volkswagenism
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 10:48 AM |
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My god, the details! What tools you have at you disposal! Must make engine buid-ups a 'snap'... You know Im kidding.... This is all very helpful
stuff for the rest of us mere mortals... Keep it coming Dave...
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71EJVan
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 02:05 PM |
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And I thought that when I used plastiguage on my rods and crank I had it going on.
We are not worthy!
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
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Craig Paton
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 08:35 PM |
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930 Trans
Dave
I've been reading this post and I see that you will be building a 930 trans at some later date.
Are the 930 trans a relitively slow box in the gear change?
IF so then how are you going to get around that?
My friend up here races his 930 T and he finds the change slower than he would like!
Any suggestions would be most welcome..!
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 10:23 PM |
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Albins makes a dog ring kit for his aftermarket gears.
It is expensive, but worth every cent.
Try a lighter mass clutch disc, but if he can afford a 930,
the Albins gears will be chicken feed for him.
(about 6 g's plus labour)
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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humpty
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| posted on April 12th, 2006 at 11:04 PM |
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ouch!
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Craig Paton
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| posted on April 13th, 2006 at 07:32 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dangerous
Albins makes a dog ring kit for his aftermarket gears.
It is expensive, but worth every cent.
Try a lighter mass clutch disc, but if he can afford a 930,
the Albins gears will be chicken feed for him.
(about 6 g's plus labour)
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Thanks Dave! Can it be used on the street?
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on April 13th, 2006 at 05:54 PM |
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Hmm , couldnt tell you to be honest Craig.
Would be pretty harsh I am guessing, but anything is possible.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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Craig Paton
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on April 13th, 2006 at 07:30 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by dangerous
Hmm , couldnt tell you to be honest Craig.
Would be pretty harsh I am guessing, but anything is possible.
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I passed the info onto Jim, he'll be calling Ivan.
[ Edited on 13-4-06 by Craig Paton ]
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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That really hurts doesnt it!
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| posted on April 13th, 2006 at 10:04 PM |
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Yer dogboxes are a bit of a ,,,wellll,,,,, dog actually at much less than full noise.
Clonking and clunking into gear, gotta match the revs on downshift just right.......bah!
But, you can live with them if you have a good constitution!
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on April 18th, 2006 at 07:39 PM |
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Checking the main bearing clearance.
Today I mounted up the new main bearings into the case to measure the oil clearance.
Just because they are new, and the clearance was checked with the old bearings,
doesn't mean that it will be OK....it must be checked.
The bolts holding the cap down are torqued down to 40ftlbs, followed by the cross bolts, also to 40ftlbs.
The sides of these caps,( but not the parting faces), are coated in a thin layer of never- seize
to prevent the cap from gaulling as it is tapped home with a plastic mallet.
Also the threads, and faces of the nuts and washers also have a film of never- seize to get consistent and accurate clamping of the fasteners.
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
23 Windows of Awesome
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| posted on April 18th, 2006 at 07:43 PM |
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Here, I am measuring each main bearing on the crankshaft,
and then setting the bore guage to this micrometer size.
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
23 Windows of Awesome
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| posted on April 18th, 2006 at 07:46 PM |
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I then insert the bore guage into the mounted bearing
and see what the clearance is.
In this case 2.8 thou.
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
23 Windows of Awesome
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| posted on April 18th, 2006 at 07:53 PM |
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This process is repeated for each of the other main bearings.
The oil clearances varied between 2.5 and 2.8 thou.
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
23 Windows of Awesome
Posts: 5901
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Registered: January 6th, 2005
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| posted on April 24th, 2006 at 09:41 PM |
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Parts all washed up and layed out.
With everything washed up and layed out, the assembly can begin.
Assembling all the parts to long-block stage takes about 10 hours.
With the bearings in place, the crankshaft can be sat in place.
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
23 Windows of Awesome
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| posted on April 24th, 2006 at 09:45 PM |
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Next, the caps have some never-seize applied to their sides to prevent gualling as they are fitted.
Once the are tapped into place, they are tensioned down to 40 ft-lbs.
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
23 Windows of Awesome
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| posted on April 24th, 2006 at 09:49 PM |
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The caps also have a cross bolt that clamps the cap in from the sides.
It has an O-ring installed under it's head, and is fitted and tensioned to 40 ft-lbs also, after tightening the studs.
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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