| [ Total Views: 8097 | Total Replies: 96 | Thread Id: 79100 ] |
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 Fastie
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| posted on October 6th, 2010 at 12:42 PM |
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I'm going through the process in Vic now and most engineers will quote you $1000 - mines a little more but he is into the VW scene in Victoria - so
happy to pay someone who knows what they are looking at. Maybe the VASS is a harder route as just getting the brakes complied is quite a process -
and my brake setup will be just over 2k - but is a seriously good setup.
I have estimated my conversion to come in under 6k with EJ20T and big brakes.. that still seems quite a bit cheaper than a VW engine alone.
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Tonz Magonz
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| posted on October 6th, 2010 at 04:32 PM |
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Fastie,
Are you using the services of Bill M..?
Regards Tony
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Fastie
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| posted on October 6th, 2010 at 06:52 PM |
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Yeah I am. He's given me a lot of good advice before even viewing the car so figure I'll stick with him
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pete wood
A.k.a.: figure itout
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| posted on October 8th, 2010 at 10:00 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Ratmuller
Pete,
would you be Andys brother...?
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nup, we just share identical DNA 
ok, yes, but tell anyone. they still think I'm cool round here... 
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Tonz Magonz
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| posted on October 10th, 2010 at 08:29 PM |
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General_Failure
A.k.a.: Tristan
Custom Title Time!
Use your head, don't abuse it!
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Mood: Not too bad. Thanks for asking!
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| posted on October 11th, 2010 at 09:46 AM |
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Of course it's still a beetle. If you change the wheels, it's still a beetle. If you use aftermarket panels it's still a (flimsy) beetle. If your
glass doesn't have a VW logo on it it's still a beetle. It's only not a beetle if you are some kind of OCD brand whore.
I'm back on track with doing a conversion on my bay. It will be far cheaper than what most people paid but that's because of massive concessions
I'm making, plus short of machining work I can pretty much do anything myself.
The way I see it is the only practical difference is I'll be able to drive it. Not only that I'll be able to drive it with the stereo on. I won't
be constantly listening intently for a change in engine sound or with my heart in my throat with every tap or knock thinking the motor is about to
self destruct with no parts for 3 hours + in any direction.
I'm doing it for three reasons. Parts availability, relative cost, and engine longevity.
I can get a subie motor at the wrecker. It won't drop an intake valve seat. Its parts aren't forged from pure unobtainium, with only historical
replicas available from China.
It won't be FI, and it won't be much more powerful than stock, but it will work. I'm staring down the barrel of a $650 to over $1000 hit to the
wallet just to do a basic topend job on my type 4. Who knows how long that will last.
Would you say it is no longer a bay? By the whole brand argument you could almost say it isn't anyway. It has a mixture of miscellaneous Japanese and
US parts already, and a few electrical bits from trucks. that comes from availability. The camper conversion wasn't done by VW or VW licensed. Does
that make it not a VW? The roo bar wasn't made by VW, nor the fog lights, rear seat, fuel pump, most of the gauges, gear stick boot, exhaust, 240v
wiring, some of the 12v wiring, carburettor, manifolds, spark plug leads etc. etc.
My point is it's still a bay in spite of the parts used. Most cars use parts from different manufacturers anyway, so the whole thing is silly.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
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Tonz Magonz
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| posted on November 29th, 2010 at 08:42 PM |
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Helbus..
You have PM..
Cheers Tony
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