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Author: Subject:  *** Tight Arse Turbo...***RETIRED***
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posted on March 11th, 2007 at 07:41 PM



Another update.

I’m off to a test and tune on Wednesday to see how the TAT turbo goes. After talking to Dave Butler and deciding I didn’t have enough fuel, I have doubled the flow and increased the pressure by fitting a new Carter fuel pump. I have also futted a Mallory press reg.
I fitted these up Friday on my RDO and fired it up Saturday morning. I had 4psi fuel press and hopefully heaps of flow. Everything was going great until I noticed the slight oil leak I had, had gotten substantially worse.

Only one thing to do, strip shit off the motor until I found it. I had a felling it was the seals between the oil cooler (dog house) and the bracket. A couple of hours later and some skinned knuckles I was able to get to the seals and replace them. While I had the turvo off I decided to drill and tap the housing for the boost pressure gauge and fix a fitting which was a bit loose but unable to be tightened.

Managed to get it all back together today and fix some things which were a little bit to TAT. Had some trouble getting it to fire (fuel issue) but it’s all good now.
Have a tine leak still but not sure if its residual oil or it’s still leaking a bit.

Well it’s all ready for Wednesday night. Hopefully it will stay together and do reasonably well. I’ve spent some time on the start line over the years but never behind the wheel. Will be quite a learning experience. Will let you know what happened either way

Cheers Stanley.

[ Edited on 11-3-2007 by Stanley ]

[ Edited on 11-3-2007 by Stanley ]

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posted on March 15th, 2007 at 04:02 PM



Tell us about your first trip to the drags!

[ Edited on 15-3-2007 by dangerous ]




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posted on March 15th, 2007 at 07:18 PM



Well since you asked Dave,
Took the TAT turbo out to Willowbank last night for it's maiden voyage.

First run 20.094 @70.53mph Bogged at the start and only had 4000rpm dialled in. Turbo didn't have a chance to kick in...forth gear is a waste of time

2nd run 27.32@72.79mph....next time don't turn the fuel pump off while your winding up the window....:smilegrin:

3rd and best....17.96@78.86mph....rpm dialled in at 5200. Went thru the end in 3rd gear.

the other two runs were 18 secs at around 78mph

What did I learn for next time......More aggression at the start. The turbo needs more revs and I need to get over my fear of dropping the clutch. I lost so much time to the engine bogging at the start due to the lack of revs. Turbo's need to rev to spool up.
Also leave on the second yellow last light and not wait for the green.
Theres no need to push the clutch to the floor during gear changes.

All in all it was an absolute hoot. I got 5 runs in and apart from the starts and the first run flooged the crap out of it and it didn't break or leak. This to me was the best part. I've never built an engine before, had anything to do with turbo's or been in a legal drag race.

To all who haven't done it...get out and have ago. It's a blast.

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posted on March 15th, 2007 at 07:30 PM



Well done! It's soooo addictive.

I haven't taken my dub yet, but I've raced my Kawka a few times and I'm planning on going again next month.
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posted on April 12th, 2007 at 06:15 PM



TAT turbo is now fully insured with the turbo....thanks to Shannons.

Will be getting mod plated next Friday. Hopefully the guy wont make me rev it to hard...no muffler. It's really not that noisy until the turbo spools up.
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posted on April 12th, 2007 at 06:17 PM



I also just noticed it's a year today since I started this thread.....whoo hoo
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posted on April 24th, 2007 at 07:34 PM



Have decided to do a removeable rear apron.
Was ready for the countless spot welds I would have to drill out....but there wasn't any, just small runs around the edges. All up only took me 1/2 a day to remove the guards and the rear apron and it's in good enough shape to use again.....:thumb

and with a dremel i was able to do it with the engine in. Just covered it up to prevent a spark from getting where it shouldn't. Now I can also fix the guard where I backed into the letterbox.

[ Edited on 24-4-2007 by Stanley ]

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posted on April 25th, 2007 at 05:28 AM



Concrete floor to work on!
Mmmmmmmm! Concrete.




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posted on April 25th, 2007 at 08:50 AM



Good stuff Andrew - you're lucky re. the spot welds....as mentioned via U2U I had about 30 each side to drill out!

Makes life a lot easier (removable apron) - enjoy!




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posted on April 25th, 2007 at 09:34 AM



Maybe I could leave the guards off and keep it as a rod....think of the weight saving...:no:
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posted on May 20th, 2007 at 06:15 PM



Just a quick update.

I've just about finished the removeable rear apron. Just waiting to get it painted so I can fit it up.
While I am waiting I have been wanting to get rid of the points. I looked into Pertonix ignitor II ignition but instead have gone for a Sigma (Mitsubishi) full electronic ignition.

Well today I got it all installed and fired up. Thanks to Dangerous Dave Butler for supplying the dissy and module. A trip to the wreckers on friday got me all the looms and connectors I needed for the dissy and module. Starts so much easier and no points to adjust. Just need to limit the advance to 24degrees and it will be all done. Well worth the effort.
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posted on May 21st, 2007 at 08:17 AM



Just a note to let everyone know that Henry Spicak(VW Drag Racing Ledgend),
did the modification to the dizzy for me way back in the early ninteys.

It served me very well until my dog chewed the wires.

Henry donated his services to me as a gesture of generosity,
so I passed this on to Andrew for his help with me at the track.

Good to see it is going to such an interesting project.




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posted on May 21st, 2007 at 05:43 PM



Pics??



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posted on May 21st, 2007 at 07:25 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 11CAB
Pics??


guard and rear apron are getting painted Wednesday. I'll post some pics when it's all back together.

Surely you can't expect me to use the dissy now it has so much history.....:P
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posted on May 27th, 2007 at 02:37 PM



Had a bit of a win today. Have had an issue with not seeing more than 5.5psi boos when the wastegate actuator is set to 7.5psi.
Thought it might have been the VDO gauge not reading correctly or worst still that I just wasn't developing boost.
Did some tests today and have discovered that I’m suffering from wastegate creep ie the wastegate is opening a fair amount at 5psi and is fully open by 7.5psi.
I hope to remedy this by installing a more sensitive boost controller.
I want to increase the boost to 10psi. I was going to fit a new waste gate but will kill two birds and fit the boost controller.
Also have the sigma electronic ignition working well now and set the dissy to 24degrees max advance.
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posted on May 27th, 2007 at 04:50 PM



Stanley when I first read that I honestly thought you had run out of license points.

Well done, photos and description of the dizzy and install would be greatly appreciated to use as a reference.

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posted on May 28th, 2007 at 11:53 AM



At risk of hijacking this tremendously enjoyable thread (trust me, more than just myself are very jealous of your street sleeper turbo 1600!!), I've seen quite a few different dizzy modifications over the years on this site and was wondering if anyone can shed some light if one is any better than the others ?

Ones I have heard of ;

Magna
Waterboxer
Volvo 244
Camira (for EFI usage)

Any others that can be made to fit with simple mods ?
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posted on May 28th, 2007 at 12:08 PM



FYI

The sigma seems pretty simple. Although I do have one to copy from. I went to the wreckers on Friday and picked up another dissy fo $25 and I will mod that one as a spare.

Some minor machining just to shorten the length and another minor mod to remove the vacuum advance and it's all good. I guess i coud do a how to as I go along.

Will it be better than a 009? not sure but I only did it A) because I wanted to get rid of the points and B) Because Dave Butler gratiously donated it to the cause.

The other option which I nearly took was to buy the pertronix ignitor. This would have been easier but I like to tinker and after all it is the TAT turbo.
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posted on May 29th, 2007 at 09:49 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Doug Sweetman
At risk of hijacking this tremendously enjoyable thread (trust me, more than just myself are very jealous of your street sleeper turbo 1600!!), I've seen quite a few different dizzy modifications over the years on this site and was wondering if anyone can shed some light if one is any better than the others ?

Ones I have heard of ;

Magna
Waterboxer
Volvo 244
Camira (for EFI usage)

Any others that can be made to fit with simple mods ?


Nissan Pulsa Turbo. Takes about 10 minutes to fit.
No points. Only suitable for EFI
L8tr
E




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posted on June 1st, 2007 at 12:01 PM



Finished the rear apron

now you see it
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j37/stanley111/rearapron1.jpg

Now you don't
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j37/stanley111/rearapron2.jpg

will make it so much easier to remove engine with turbo intact

[ Edited on 1-6-2007 by Stanley ]
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posted on June 1st, 2007 at 03:31 PM



Sweet! Love your work...

"Stanley's Performance Engine Building, Tuning and Panel"




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posted on June 1st, 2007 at 10:11 PM



That is a serously good looking bit of kit M8.
Im impressed.
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posted on June 2nd, 2007 at 07:42 AM



Discovered yesterday the need to brace the turbo. Took it for a drive to see how the new ignition was going. After the thumbs up I was down at the boat ramp near my house and was praticing some launches and all of a sudden it started running like crap and misfiring.

Limped it the 100mts home and discovered the turbo had been thrown back and had knocked the dissy cap half off. The sigma dissy's are larger than the 009. I need to push everything forward and make a new bracket. Todays job

PS thanks for the comments guys....:tu:
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posted on June 2nd, 2007 at 09:25 AM



Hi

Interesting read. Has anyone told you that you have your generator fitted 90 degrees out? It important to have it the correct way otherwise the cooling vents in the backing plate don't line up. The earth screw should be almost facing straight up.

Steve
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posted on June 2nd, 2007 at 11:38 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 1303Steve
Hi

Interesting read. Has anyone told you that you have your generator fitted 90 degrees out? It important to have it the correct way otherwise the cooling vents in the backing plate don't line up. The earth screw should be almost facing straight up.

Steve


Well spotted Steve!!!!




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posted on June 2nd, 2007 at 11:59 AM



just a quick question about your turbo dump pipe .
what size did you use and why.




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posted on June 2nd, 2007 at 05:22 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 1303Steve
Hi

Interesting read. Has anyone told you that you have your generator fitted 90 degrees out? It important to have it the correct way otherwise the cooling vents in the backing plate don't line up. The earth screw should be almost facing straight up.

Steve


Thanks Steve....i'll look into that. That was the way it came off if I turn it the wires wont reach...never the less I'll check...thanks again...:thumb

The dump pipe is that size only because I had an old exhaust system and I used the bends to make it (TAT remember). It' 1 5/8. When I fit the new system I may go a bit bigger. There are some different schools of thought as to big or small.
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posted on June 2nd, 2007 at 07:58 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Stanley
The dump pipe is that size only because I had an old exhaust system and I used the bends to make it (TAT remember). It' 1 5/8. When I fit the new system I may go a bit bigger. There are some different schools of thought as to big or small.


Thats very fair to say on the frontend of the turbocharger but on the back end you want it as free flowing as you can get.
2.5" minimum and separate the wastegate outlet as far as you can go if you can.
Theres a surprising amount of HP to be gained and spool time to be lost with a decent dump setup.

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posted on June 3rd, 2007 at 06:37 AM



I'm hoping to have a new exhaust system made in the next few weeks. Something like the attached photo. Won't be equal length but the merge/collector will be at the turbo flange.
Just trying to work out whether to have it made or to buy some mandrel bends and have a crack myself. I will need to have the actual collector made so it might be easier to get the local shop to do the whole lot.
Once this is done then I will make a dump that is more efficient than the one I have.
Unfortunately the bug has bitten hard and it's gone from a street car that will be sometimes used on the track to a track car that will sometimes be driven on the street....:starhit:

It must all fit under the deck lid though as I need to be able to drive it to the track.

[ Edited on 2-6-2007 by Stanley ]

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posted on June 3rd, 2007 at 08:02 AM



You are going to need a bigger engine lid!

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