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Author: Subject:  64 Beetle - 5LAM - Gearbox out! 8/10
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posted on February 8th, 2012 at 08:18 AM



http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/45ff9144.jpg



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posted on February 8th, 2012 at 09:42 PM



you left a bit of tape down ;)

came up pretty good, you gonna give the engine a coat too?




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posted on February 9th, 2012 at 08:25 AM



I'm just going to give the block a good clean up.
There's a fair build-up of grease and crap on it




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posted on February 9th, 2012 at 09:48 AM



where do you buy checkered paint like that?



type 4 1956 oval build thread anyone?...

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posted on February 9th, 2012 at 10:00 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by DieSchnelleKafer
where do you buy checkered paint like that?


hahahahaha……….. Classic….




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posted on February 10th, 2012 at 08:50 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by DieSchnelleKafer
where do you buy checkered paint like that?


It's usually at the back of the hardware store, along with the Skyhooks, Left Handed Screwdrivers, and Buckets of Compressed Air. :lol:

Went over to my mates Fab Shop yesterday. Pulled the springplates out and got to work extending them.
They are now 1/2" longer to correct the toe in. Big thanks to Benny @ 3rd Dimension Race Fab for laying down some killer TIG welds! Some of his work is pure art.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/b84aaab3.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/f9337d7c.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/4141743e.jpg

The only problem I have now that I measured the height, is that the drivers side has obviously sagged a little, and sits about an inch lower thean the passenger side. Anyone know how I can raise one side the equivalent of half a spline??? :crazy:




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posted on February 10th, 2012 at 11:54 AM



There are a different number of splines on the inside end of the torsion bar than there is on the outside end of the torsion bar.

Moving the inside 1 spline one way, and the outside 1 spline the other way changes the angle of the torsion bar by 50' of a degree, so you can get the angle quite accurate.

If you take both sides just out over the stop at once, and let them hang on the torsion bars with no tension on them, you should be able to look across under the car and check that they are both at the same angle.

This whole procedure is set out in workshop manuals, or there are threads on here that go into this is depth with photos. Do a search.




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posted on February 10th, 2012 at 12:48 PM



Got it, so at the moment I'm +1 inner, -3 outer = 4.42 inch drop.
If I rotate the lower side +6inner, -5 outer it will equal 3.44 inch drop, and give me the inch I need.




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posted on February 15th, 2012 at 09:01 AM



Finally got the car all level, and happy with this ride height for now. Until it goes on air ride anyway :lol:
For those who asked for measurements I hope these help
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/4eae16ec.jpg

The rear sits at 115mm, and the front at 85mm. Both measurements taken at the edge of the guard, so obviously the floorpan and beam etc sit a lot lower, but that will give you something to compare to yours.
Front
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/74690f21.jpg
Rear
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/0f810bf0.jpg

And a few up-to-date pics of how it's looking.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/70a39811.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/115ef2c2.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/11f0c4e7.jpg




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posted on February 15th, 2012 at 11:37 AM



Looks tops mate, nice work.
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posted on February 15th, 2012 at 05:21 PM



Looks great! Love it!!



1969 1500
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posted on February 16th, 2012 at 02:59 PM



I bought a steering boss the other day (thanks Calcool!)
Drove all the way up to Brissy to pick it up, and i was pretty bummed when I got home, and it wasn't the same bolt pattern as my wheel :td:
So, I figure I could MAKE it fit.
I marked out the bolt pattern of my wheel on to the Boss.
Set it up in the drill press and drilled a bunch of 4.8mm holes.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/6586e91f.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/3398f5d7.jpg

Then tapped it using my el-cheapo tap & die set, with a 1/4 tap
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/d20db91f.jpg

And hey presto - the wheel fits, and now its a multi-fit steering boss. haha
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/7be5235a.jpg




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posted on February 25th, 2012 at 07:57 AM



great read mate
givin me some ideas for mine when it gets started
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posted on February 28th, 2012 at 08:30 AM



Thanks Cressy.

I'm really working on getting the 1600TP finished and in, now. Picked up a pair of Dual Port Manifolds, which I just need to clean up. Only a few more parts now, and I can start putting it all together.
Got some stainless gravel guards too.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/09cebd44.jpg

I've been thinking a lot about engine cooling also, for when the new motor goes in. I don't want to cut vents into the decklid. The new W lid is fibreglass, so I can't even get louvres punched in it. I'm thinking this might be a solution though. Cutting 3 x 3.5" holes behind the rego plate, then spacing the top of the plate out, so it acts as a scoop (kinda). This would let hot air escape when in traffic too, and would be pretty well hidden.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/cc819acd.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/6d9957a2.jpg

Your thoughts? Am I on the right track, or do the vents need to be at the top of the decklid?




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posted on February 28th, 2012 at 10:46 AM



Thats a solid idea, well hidden and definately worth giving it a go.
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posted on February 28th, 2012 at 10:51 AM



Might try it on the original decklid for now, since its toast anyway :lol:



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posted on February 28th, 2012 at 01:39 PM



Nice build thread. I was going through it and saw you cut the door cards and went "nooooo". but as I kept reading the rest of what you'd made me go "stuff it, nice stance". Good work hombre.
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posted on February 28th, 2012 at 03:50 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by BlackBug
I've been thinking a lot about engine cooling also, for when the new motor goes in. I don't want to cut vents into the decklid. The new W lid is fibreglass, so I can't even get louvres punched in it. I'm thinking this might be a solution though. Cutting 3 x 3.5" holes behind the rego plate, then spacing the top of the plate out, so it acts as a scoop (kinda). This would let hot air escape when in traffic too, and would be pretty well hidden.


Your thoughts? Am I on the right track, or do the vents need to be at the top of the decklid?


Hot air only escapes out the bottom of the engine, the decklid vents are only for the fan to draw in fresh air, and with a doghouse 1600 engine in you definately need some sort of venting.
Behind the plate will be fine, or just prop the bottom open abit, it's only so the fan can pull in enough air.

It's a very common mod in the Germanlook world for the number plate to be spaced out and vents behind:

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posted on February 29th, 2012 at 02:42 PM



Thanks Joel, thats the sort of thing I was going for! :tu:



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posted on March 14th, 2012 at 09:24 AM



Well, still going trying to get the 1600 finished. I'm hoping to have it in within the next 2 weeks for my trip down to Port Mac. Someone should buy my 1200 engine! :)

Pretty much done cleaning the engine up
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/70770abe.jpg
And have started putting bits and pieces back on
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/693e5f73.jpg
Last few bits and pieces arrived Monday. Just need plugs, leads, belt and j-pipes now.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/d629c8fc.jpg
And I shot some clear on my tinware.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/9ab0a96d.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/516f2b85.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/d0037cbc.jpg

My fuel tank sprung another leak. After bodgy quick fixes 6 times now, I'd had enough and needed to get the new tank sorted.
I had a Herculiner bed liner kit left over from a previous project, so I decided to coat it with that. It's a rubberised coating like Rhino Liner and its indestructible!

Old Tank!
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/8cbbd7c1.jpg
New Tank, and the bedliner kit
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/911267ed.jpg
Done
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/545bc60b.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/447196d0.jpg

It's good being able to put a full tank of fuel in, and not worry whether its leaking out or not. haha




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posted on March 22nd, 2012 at 09:46 AM



Well it doesn't look like i'll have the engine in in time. I think I'll have the motor all together, but I won't have enough cash to get it installed with a new clutch and trans mounts before next weekend.
It's coming along..
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/88095f62.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/fefdd469.jpg

Also picked up a nice ratty reverse light. (Thanks Al!!) Just needed a new bulb. Anyone know if there's a way to hook this up so it comes on when reverse gear is selected?? Or are they normally just hooked up to a manual switch on the dash?
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/754a8ba9.jpg

Also scored a pair of ski's for my ski rack. $5 on ebay :smilegrin:
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/3e95dd95.jpg




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posted on March 22nd, 2012 at 10:01 AM



That #4 exh pushrod tube looks fairly fubar.

You get a pretty epic oil leak when the rod rubs through.
Now's an easy time to replace them.

If you're lucky there may be a bung in the nose cone of the tranny for a reverse light switch.

Some people rig microswitches on the shift rod coupler but a toggle switch is the easy fix.
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posted on March 22nd, 2012 at 10:02 AM



Good to see the light still works mate. Depends on your gearbox - on the nose cone there should be a reverse switch (looks like a an oil pressure switch but with two tangs)....later boxes had them but not early. If you don' thave the switch on the gearbox you'll have to manually switch it on the dash.
Al




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posted on March 22nd, 2012 at 10:25 AM



Yeah all the pushrod tubes look pretty average. I'm yet to pull the heads and replace all of them, and give them a clean. I will probably leave that to GC Veedub also.

I'll have to get under and have a look at my gearbox. Thanks guys ;)




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posted on April 3rd, 2012 at 04:11 PM



Out of interest do you think the rear end is softer now that you have lengthened the arms.
The reason i ask, i have done the same, added half an inch. i reckon it has dropped slightly but now is softer, it makes sense by making the arm longer it has more leverage hence softer but didn't know if i was dreaming ;)

If so is there heavy duty torsion bars??
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posted on April 3rd, 2012 at 07:50 PM



Hmm, not that I've noticed. I know what you mean, I'm just not sure it would make a notable difference.



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posted on April 8th, 2012 at 08:40 PM



Went down to Port Macquarie for a Minitruck show last weekend. Brought home a trophy for best old school. Pretty stoked! She ran really well there and back too.
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/15b3a01b.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/885da3b4.jpg

And this weekend I did this....
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/6a2c21ae.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/ce4afebf.jpg
http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss282/Ill5lamyou/0be74ed1.jpg

Pretty happy with how it turned out. Exactly how I pictured it.




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posted on April 8th, 2012 at 09:46 PM



Gotta love a rattle can two tone :tu:

looks good
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posted on April 8th, 2012 at 11:45 PM



looking good! how did you learn to do all this stuff? is it your trade? or just years of tinkering?
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posted on April 9th, 2012 at 07:18 AM



Are you still going to cut the holes in you deck lid??



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