[ Total Views: 9661 | Total Replies: 220 | Thread Id: 15209 ] |
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Doug Sweetman
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posted on April 7th, 2004 at 03:02 PM |
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Ratty - good to see you havent fallen off the earth.
If you get it running, just slap a fuel tank and a seat on it, and drive the chassis there
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count
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posted on April 7th, 2004 at 11:02 PM |
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FI
G'Day Ppl,
I've come in on this thread a bit late
This Web Site might be of intrest:-
http://www.jefferies-au.org/My16M/index.htm
The bloke made a Fuel Injection from scratch
to replace a Weber Marelli unit.
Some of the info might be of intrest,
though he seems cool on it.
His are for MotoGuzzi.
Hey!! Push rod, aircooled, 2 valve head
They've got a bit in common
Ivan
Ivan in Oz
1976 Beetle 1600
Mitsubishi Delicious 2.8TDi 4X4
MotoGuzzi
You're only Young once,
You can be immature forever.
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ratty 63
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posted on April 8th, 2004 at 01:36 PM |
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Hi all,
Was a bit upset yesterday when my post (which took me 15 mins to type) didn't post correctly - or so I thought. It is here today, so its all good
now!
Modulus - any info on the VSS would be great! I didn't even think of looking into Jaycar for a kit....
As for slapping a seat on it along with a fuel tank and driving it there - if I didn't think I would get arrested in the process I would be up for
that challange! Might give that a go - only up and down the street though - call it 'fuel mapping'!:P I have done something similar with the Baja
before I started the resto job on it - no accelerator cable, a milk crate for a seat, only the handbrake to stop it, a jerry can and battery on the
back parcel shelf with jumper leads suppying power to the engine and my Bro hanging out of where the back window glass once was, acting as a throttle
cable/battery & jerry can tie down, whilst we rocketed up and down the street, much to the surprise of the neighbours who all came out to watch!
It was all in the name of gearbox testing (turned out to be a good one too!) Got it all on video too!!
Count, thanks for that link - I will have a closer look as soon as I get a chance.
So, any of you going to the Nats?
R
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modulus
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posted on April 8th, 2004 at 02:04 PM |
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"Silicon Chips" Speed Sensor
The basic design is very simple; a bobbin wound with 500 turns of enammelled copper wire; four magnets spaced around the driveshaft, and the bobbin is
placed at a gap of 10 mm from these magnets, each of which must have the same orientation. As the magnets pass the bobbin, they induce a pulse...
As this is part of a speed alarm, the smart bit is the calibration; you drive at 100 kph (by yr. speedo), set the alarm to 100 kph, and press
calibrate... the firmware works out how many pulses/second equate to 100 kph and stores that result. They note that 8 magnets might be required for a
VW-type application, as the drive shaft is rotating slower than for a rear-wheel-drive tailshaft.
The Jaycar kit which implements this includes a pre-wound bobbin. The trick to using it in yr. EFI application would be how to calibrate it or obtain
a "calibrated" signal. Jaycar part Kc-5279. More extensive write-up in "Silicon Chips Electronic Projects for Cars Vol 2".
hth
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ratty 63
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posted on April 21st, 2004 at 10:18 AM |
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Hmm, sounds like it would work, only one issue...where would you mount it on a swing axel vehicle? How about inside the brake drum? Any other
ideas?
R
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tassupervee
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posted on April 21st, 2004 at 03:35 PM |
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Ratty.
Main thing is is what "kind" of signal is the ECU actually asking for?
A possible indicator is the number of wires from the ecu running to the sender.
Just a thought thats all. May save you some bother further down the track.
Quite a few of the guys running turbo Pulsars (E15ET's) have removed the oem MAF sense EFI systems in favour of the MAP sense Delco systems out of
Camiras and they dont bother with any speed sensors at all.
On all the posts i have read on these ECU's never once was a speed sensor ever used or even mentioned. They just mounted up the CAS assembly into the
ET dizzy and wired the thing up.
Biggest hassle with Delco systems is getting the fuel maps right as (AFAIK) they dont have the advantage of real time tuning.
I dont know what the latest kalmaker software is like now as most guys simply dont bother with the drama of shoehorning all the Delco goodies into
their cars now in favour of simple and relatively cheap aftermarket real-time programmeable fuel and ignition ECU's. If they have difficulty with
getting a suitable dizzy they just remove the dizzy altogether and use a simple and cheap crank fired hall effect CAS which would be a doddle on the
kraut.
The results they get at the end of the day are good enough tho without the bother of adding any other gizmos to the system that may not be
necessary.
Make sure that you are not chasing red herrings as far as speed sensing is concerned.
L8tr dude
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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ratty 63
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posted on April 22nd, 2004 at 08:19 AM |
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Yep, I have read this too and what you say is all true. The Delco system will run fine without the VSS, however I have heard the VSS allows for
better/smoother 'just open throttle' running (ie: very low speed, like you would find in a traffic jamb etc), basically making the system just a
little better to drive. The VSS is not really a big deal, however I considered that if it was going to be easy to create, then it may as well be
done. I'm just looking at all possible alternatives/options.
Oh yeah, one of the major functions of the VSS is for emissions control, something that is not all that high on my list of important issues (oh dear,
I can hear the greenies comments from here!:P)
R
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ratty 63
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posted on May 7th, 2004 at 02:23 PM |
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Update time...
...well not much has happened over the past few weeks - sort of ran out of money (for spending on the car anyway) so at my wifes instistance, I have
put the EFI system on hold for a couple of weeks - so close yet so far . I
only really have to mount the gearbox on the pan, then the engine o the box and finish the wiring loom mods - not a great deal of expence to do this
however the 'better' half sees any time spent working on the car as a waste of money at the moment so it is all going on hold until this 'issue'
blows over.
What this extra time has allowed me to do is update my website with more details regarding the EFI system (as well as more pics from the events we
have been to recently:thumb). The site is basically up-to-date so you can see what I have (and haven't) done. Any comments welcome.
...so, hows everyone else going? Anyone having more sucess than me? I have had a fair few thoughts about re-doing the end castings that I am going
to use as I feel that the modifications that I have had done to mine are just too rough and are likely to allow air to leak through where the
injectors are mounted. I will be leaving this until I have at least attempted to start the engine so that I know of any other problems to be aware of
before I re-do them. Other than that, I am reasonably happy with the way it is all coming together.....
R
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ratty 63
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posted on June 7th, 2004 at 11:40 AM |
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...ok, back again!
I have finally earned enough brownie points to be allowed back into the garage:thumb
During the last week I have laid the floorpan back down flat again (it was leaning against the wall to give me a bit more room) and have put the long
axels onto the box before fitting it to the pan. I attempted to reset the rear suspention, but gave up when I realised that the pan alone doens't
have enough weight to offer resistance against the forces of the torsion bars - I'll have another go at this once the body is back on the pan. I
then fitted the engine to the gearbox (isn't that a simple procedure when there is no bodywork in the way!)
I still have to fit the backing plates to the axels (and the axel boots now I think about it!), then fill the box with oil. The old exhaust system
has to be removed and my O2 sensor modified system fitted - then I can finish fitting the injectors and the injector hold down brackets.... then its
just the wiring and the plumbing (fuel) to be done!
I am hoping to have this up and running in the next week (or at least by Wednesday of the following week)
I still haven't made a decision on a temp sensor for the FI system yet - I need a temp conversion scale (deg F to deg C or the other way around) so
that I can do some comparasons between the temp sens II from the Kombi FI system and the origional Camira part - any suggestions? It was suggested
that I simply wire in a resistor and a switch - label the switch 'choke' and switch it on when it is cold - yeah...ok...it would work, but sort of
defeats the purpose of having such a high tech system doesn't it?
OK, I'm off now to go and raid my brothers garage in an effort to get back all of my 'missing' tools....:puke
R
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ratty 63
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posted on June 21st, 2004 at 01:06 PM |
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...just picked up a copy of 'Electronic Engine Management - Reference Manual' by Frank 'Choco' Munday - a new book written in Australia for people
that are just learning - a good read!
Choco is also a big fan of the Delco system that I will be using (as soon as everything else is finished) so it goes through the how and why of the
Delco too.
Just thought some of you might be interested....
R
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Jeza
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posted on June 21st, 2004 at 01:33 PM |
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Thanks Ratty
I will have to look out for that manual over here (NZ).
Written in Australian eh, oh well the NZ / Aussie accent isn't tooooo different so I should be able to understand it :thumb
Cheers
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
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nbturbo
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posted on June 21st, 2004 at 04:40 PM |
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R-where did you manage to score that?-I have been trying to get one thru' the Kalmaker Forum but haven't had any joy.
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ratty 63
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posted on June 22nd, 2004 at 09:58 AM |
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I picked it up at the Mudgeeraba Swap meet on Sunday - from Mountain Motor Books (based in Cooparoo, Brisbane. Ph (07)33976845 or email
freeway@eis.net.au)
The book goes over the basics of fuel injection - it's written in a 'EFI for Dummies' style - good basic info without the jargon and complex info
to bog you down. Lots of pictures to look at whilst digesting the info! Good reference section in the back too. Formulas for the more common
calculations are also included. It's not enough to get your EFI running, but it will certainly give you a good idea about where to start and which
direction to head in (and why you should and should not do certain things)!
One thing is for sure - the author definatly does NOT like carbs!:thumb
R
[Edited on 21-6-2004 by ratty 63]
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ratty 63
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posted on June 22nd, 2004 at 10:39 AM |
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...just has a closer look at the book. There is an address on the back you might also try:
Graffiti Publications P/L
PO Box 232 Castlemaine, Vic, 3450, Australia
PH: (03)54723653
Email: graffiti@netcon.net.au
Web: http://www.graffitipub.com.au
R
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ratty 63
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posted on June 22nd, 2004 at 12:55 PM |
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...man, I spend too much time sitting in front of this computer and not working on my EFI system!:puke
...however, I just did a comparason between the temp sender on the Camira and the Temp Sender II from the VW and once I had converted the figures to
the same temp measurement (deg F to deg C) a visual comparason showed them to be fairly close - I did graph them but I can't work out how to turn the
graph into something I can post here (eg a jpg or similar). There is almost no difference between the resistances at higher temps (remember that the
Delco and some of the better ECU's will go into damage control at high temps so the sender still has to work at these temps), and at the lower end of
the temp scale they are still fairly close. My only concern is that the VW sender can read temp values much higher than the Camira ones (head temp Vs
water temp) so I wonder what effect that will have on the operation.... Due to a lack of other information and options I think I will end up using a
temp sender II and just see how I go...
OK, back to the garage to finish the fuel plumbing (again!)
R
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Jeza
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posted on June 22nd, 2004 at 01:47 PM |
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Ratty
If you want to put a graph up, take a screen shot (ie on a PC hit the Print Screen button on the top right of the keyboard) and paste it into paint
(or similar) then you can cut out the part you want and save it as a jpg.
Sorry not very FI oriented advice....
CU
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
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ratty 63
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posted on June 23rd, 2004 at 12:09 PM |
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Thanks Jeremy,
I'll give that a go later this afternoon - have to deliver the company car to the mechanics right now for a service - I had thought of doing that but
thought that the picture quality might have suffered - to the point of it not being worthwhile, but I will give it a go - nothing ventured, nothing
gained.
R
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KruizinKombi
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posted on June 23rd, 2004 at 01:35 PM |
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Awesome reading!!! I too want to convert to programmable EFI down the track, but hadn't bothered investigating it because it is currently an
unrealistic financial goal. I am really pleased however to find that your system is probably going to come in at around $2000 - I had been guessing at
closer to $5000!!
Maybe the conversion isn't as far off as I thought! Mine will be on my current stock 1800 engine in my 75 kombi. I hope to use the manifolds and
plumbing straight off my 76 2 litre FI motor that I still have lying around. This should give it a 'factory look', while still having the benefits
of modern efi.
Keep us posted, this thread makes excellent food for thought! :thumb
Kruizin Kol
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nbturbo
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posted on June 23rd, 2004 at 02:02 PM |
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Thanks R-will certainly get that one.Have given up on my home brand FI- am getting some throttle bodies which are a replacement for my Webers-will
still use all the Delco stuff.Map sensor will be an issue but may be able to make a vaccuum pot with the 4 manifold pipes going into it.Will be better
than just using TPS.Settlement day today for the house we bought so am now in a position to know what my finances are- can now get back into the Beast
and get some of the big $ jobs done.
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ratty 63
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posted on June 24th, 2004 at 09:04 AM |
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Calcs for temp sender
OK, I think it is just because it is early in the morning, but I can't get the graph to display correctly in Excel....so I have decided that I will
just post the figures that I used - it is fairly obvious just by looking at the numbers that they are going to be close, with the only problem being,
what happens when the head temp goes beyond the limits of resistance of the Camira water temps sensor - will the ECU still be able to handle it?
Whilst the temp sensor is mainly used for cold start, the Delco ECU can also go into 'damage control' mode if things get too hot (inject fuel but
switch off spark to cool the cylinders), it would be nice to be able to use this feature too.....
...just a quick note about the figures - the temps for the VW sender are rounded to the nearest degree, as the original figures that I recieved were
in deg F, and the conversion to deg C has caused some longish decimal places to be created - shouldn't make any difference though...
Temp Sender II (head temp):
Temp Deg C Ohms
20 2290
36 1453
49 981
63 611
76 408
89 286
100 187
115 138
128 103
135 85
154 62
163 51
Camira Sensor (coolant temp):
Temp Deg C Ohms
0 6000
20 2500
30 1800
40 1200
70 450
90 250
100 190
110 110

KrusinKombi, I wish that I could have used the factory standard stuff (manifolds, etc) on my engine, but finding FI manifolds to suit a Type I engine
is next to impossible in Aust., plus there was some question as to how restrictive the factory manifolds are, compared to a set of modified twin port
end castings. The manifolds are one of the biggest issues when setting up an EFI system (in my opinion ). My Brother is bugging me to set up his Baja (Type IV powered with Porsche fan) with EFI - we will still
have to mod the manifolds to clear the fan, but at least we will be able to use all the factory Type IV fittings.... Going to get mine running first
before we start anything else!
NBTurbo, I have seen these castings that you are planning on using - very nice. What sort of price range are they in (if you don't mind me asking)?
As for the MAP sensor - what I have seen done on other twin TB vehicles is the MAP sensor is connected to the balance pipe between the two TB's,
giving an average vac reading from both the manifolds...do the castings you are planning on using have provision for a balance pipe?
OK, back to the garage - must get this finished.....
R
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ratty 63
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posted on June 24th, 2004 at 09:07 AM |
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D'oh:cussing
The figures were all set out neatly, with headings and all, when I typed them, but now they are posted, all the spaces have been removed making them a
little harder to read.... do they still make sense?
R
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nbturbo
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posted on June 24th, 2004 at 11:38 AM |
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I priced them about 12 months ago and came in about $600 each-so decided to home build.If I added up the expense so far,I think at $1200 for 2 would
have been a lot cheaper to just buy them at the start.Just wanted to make my own for personal satisfaction-never mind. Still have to buy a fuel
pump-can get a "fuel miser" replacement for a Commudoor for $250 from Repco or a second hand for about $80.Will get a new one though-any ideas for a
cheaper option.
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ratty 63
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posted on June 30th, 2004 at 01:39 AM |
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Arrrrggggg!
I have been trying to make sense of the Camira wiring loom all day and I think it might be time to give it a break!
I have discovered that the loom not only includes wiring for all the EFI sensors, injectors, and fuel pump, but also the wiring for the charging
circuit, Air conditioning, starter motor and for the Auto trans control (fancy such a ....er .... crappy .... yeah, that will do:P, fancy such a
crappy car having an electronically controlled auto box, still basic by todays standards though...). This means that I will have to remove all the
excess wiring in the loom so that I end up with only what I need .... :bounce
I think I will leave the A/C control wiring in the loom for a future project....
I have come across an interesting thing whilst searching through the wiring diagrams: The GM's appear to have the oil pressure switch connected as
part of the fuel pump circuit. It would appear that the oil pressure switch has some sort of control over the fuel pump along with being responsible
for triggering the warning light on the dashboard. Not sure what effect it has on the pump circuit yet, anyone have any ideas? The wiring diagrams
don't show the internal working of the switch, so I can't see exactly what they do....
Still have a couple of plugs to ID but I think I will leave that until tomorrow (...er...actually it will be later today - 1:34am)
C'ya
R
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ratty 63
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posted on June 30th, 2004 at 12:51 PM |
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Hey!
I posted a fairly lengthy blurb here very early this morning (about 1:30am) and now its not here - actually it didn't come up when I posted it
either, but I have had that happen before so I wasn't too worried - wots going on? Admin?
R
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MickH
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posted on June 30th, 2004 at 12:59 PM |
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It came up cause I read it!!!!! Is it the one you posted at 139 am??It is still there
tssnq.com.au
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tassupervee
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posted on June 30th, 2004 at 05:28 PM |
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Ratty
"remember that the ECU and software is worth just over $1100 - a big chunk of the $2000".
Is this how much you have actually paid for the delco ECU and software or are you quoting against aftermarket stuff??
l8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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ratty 63
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posted on July 1st, 2004 at 10:27 AM |
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Hi all,
Looks like my posts are back - yay! :thumb I was starting to wonder if I had done something wrong....
tassupervee, the $1100 was for the Kalmaker Streetpro 3 package, which includes the Delco ECU fitted with the real time modification, Streetpro 3
software, cabling (from ECU to laptop PC) and instructions.
nbturbo, I understand what you mean when you say you wanted to make your own manifolds for personal satisfaction, however, I also know why you are now
looking at buying them! Not the easiest thing to set up....I'm still going with my home made manifolds at this stage, but any hint of trouble with
them and I'm going to lash out and have something professionally made to do the job.
For those of you who are planning on having a go at the Delco set-up, my comments above about the wiring diagram in the Gregorys manual not being 100%
correct appear to be true. Also, the oil pressure switch IS connected in line with the fuel pump in the GM cars! No one quite knows why, perhaps so
that the fuel pump doesn't start to operate until the engine has oil pressure.... thats the best explanation so far - but I have been told that it is
not necessary to connect the loom in this way, so to make it easier for myself I'm going to leave the oil pressure switch out of this loom. I was
sent this link to a zip file, which answers a few questions and clarifys things a little. Worth a look if you are going to tackle the Camira loom.
ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/pub/gmecm/manuals/1227808/je.zip
OK, back to the wiring for me!
R
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Baja Wes
Bishop of Volkswagenism
V6 Baja Pioneer
    
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posted on July 1st, 2004 at 12:52 PM |
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The reason why the oil light is connected to the fuel pump is a safety issue.
EFI systems have various forms of fuel cuts that are designed to act in the case of an accident. It's so when you crash and the fuel line ruptures,
the pump doesn't continuous spraying fuel at a very high flow rate all over the crash scene.
Mechanical pumps don't have the prob, cos if the engine stops then they stop.
Sound like the camira was wired so when the engine stopped, the oil light come on and the fuel pump stopped.
More modern EFI use other methods of feed back to decide whether the engine is running (the tacho being useful), and turn the fuel pump on and off
accordingly.
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nbturbo
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posted on July 1st, 2004 at 01:24 PM |
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Ratty63-Your question on Kalmaker about coils.As I told you ,I am using a modified Volvo distributor(for now) and because it is the same size as a 009
it only has a small diameter cap.My EFI Wizard got me to buy a standard 12 volt coil because high output ones will destroy the cap-hence the use of
large diameter caps on EFI cars-well thats how he explained it to me,because the spark is so fierce it arcs across the terminals.We are investigating
getting the gear off a late Lada Niva engine to go with crank angle sensor fired ignition.Can even use 4 spark plug coils then.
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ratty 63
A.k.a.: Rossco
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posted on July 2nd, 2004 at 10:52 AM |
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Wes, I thought of the saftey issue too - it makes sense to me, however I have been told (by one person) that the fuel pump does not stop if you loose
oil pressure (once the engine is running), however the fuel pump relay won't pull in until the engine has oil pressure(when starting)... the wiring
diagram doesn't have enough detail to show exactly how it works so without doing tests on a Camira or a Commodore I won't know exactly. It's not
of vital importance to me - I was only making sure that the oil pressure switch does not necessarily need to be wired into the loom. I will continue
to investigate, and may include a GM switch in my set-up if it turns out to be a worthwhile addition.
Hmmm, nbturbo, I can see the theory behind your choice of coils. I may have to go that way in the future as my brother has now decided that he is
going to go with the Delco too (in the future) on his Type IV powered Baja, and he is starting to collect the necessary parts to do the conversion.
The first thing he noticed is that the modified Camira dissy is going to be a very close fit to the fan shroud (Porsche style) due to its extra
diameter and actually may not fit, so the Volvo dissy is one item we are looking into to get around this problem. If this we end up having to go for
the Volvo dissy, then it would appear that I will have to use a 'standard' coil too.....
I'm off to the garage again, must get this wiring finished.....
R
[Edited on 2-7-2004 by ratty 63]
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