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Author: Subject: aftermarket fuel injection
MemberDoug Sweetman
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posted on April 7th, 2004 at 03:02 PM


Ratty - good to see you havent fallen off the earth.

If you get it running, just slap a fuel tank and a seat on it, and drive the chassis there :)
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posted on April 7th, 2004 at 11:02 PM
FI


G'Day Ppl,
I've come in on this thread a bit late:(
This Web Site might be of intrest:-
http://www.jefferies-au.org/My16M/index.htm 

The bloke made a Fuel Injection from scratch
to replace a Weber Marelli unit.

Some of the info might be of intrest,
though he seems cool on it.
His are for MotoGuzzi.

Hey!! Push rod, aircooled, 2 valve head
They've got a bit in common;)

Ivan




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posted on April 8th, 2004 at 01:36 PM


Hi all,

Was a bit upset yesterday when my post (which took me 15 mins to type) didn't post correctly - or so I thought. It is here today, so its all good now!

Modulus - any info on the VSS would be great! I didn't even think of looking into Jaycar for a kit....

As for slapping a seat on it along with a fuel tank and driving it there - if I didn't think I would get arrested in the process I would be up for that challange! Might give that a go - only up and down the street though - call it 'fuel mapping'!:P I have done something similar with the Baja before I started the resto job on it - no accelerator cable, a milk crate for a seat, only the handbrake to stop it, a jerry can and battery on the back parcel shelf with jumper leads suppying power to the engine and my Bro hanging out of where the back window glass once was, acting as a throttle cable/battery & jerry can tie down, whilst we rocketed up and down the street, much to the surprise of the neighbours who all came out to watch! It was all in the name of gearbox testing (turned out to be a good one too!) Got it all on video too!!

Count, thanks for that link - I will have a closer look as soon as I get a chance.

So, any of you going to the Nats?

R




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posted on April 8th, 2004 at 02:04 PM
"Silicon Chips" Speed Sensor


The basic design is very simple; a bobbin wound with 500 turns of enammelled copper wire; four magnets spaced around the driveshaft, and the bobbin is placed at a gap of 10 mm from these magnets, each of which must have the same orientation. As the magnets pass the bobbin, they induce a pulse...

As this is part of a speed alarm, the smart bit is the calibration; you drive at 100 kph (by yr. speedo), set the alarm to 100 kph, and press calibrate... the firmware works out how many pulses/second equate to 100 kph and stores that result. They note that 8 magnets might be required for a VW-type application, as the drive shaft is rotating slower than for a rear-wheel-drive tailshaft.

The Jaycar kit which implements this includes a pre-wound bobbin. The trick to using it in yr. EFI application would be how to calibrate it or obtain a "calibrated" signal. Jaycar part Kc-5279. More extensive write-up in "Silicon Chips Electronic Projects for Cars Vol 2".

hth




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posted on April 21st, 2004 at 10:18 AM


Hmm, sounds like it would work, only one issue...where would you mount it on a swing axel vehicle? How about inside the brake drum? Any other ideas?

R




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posted on April 21st, 2004 at 03:35 PM


Ratty.
Main thing is is what "kind" of signal is the ECU actually asking for?
A possible indicator is the number of wires from the ecu running to the sender.

Just a thought thats all. May save you some bother further down the track.

Quite a few of the guys running turbo Pulsars (E15ET's) have removed the oem MAF sense EFI systems in favour of the MAP sense Delco systems out of Camiras and they dont bother with any speed sensors at all.
On all the posts i have read on these ECU's never once was a speed sensor ever used or even mentioned. They just mounted up the CAS assembly into the ET dizzy and wired the thing up.

Biggest hassle with Delco systems is getting the fuel maps right as (AFAIK) they dont have the advantage of real time tuning.
I dont know what the latest kalmaker software is like now as most guys simply dont bother with the drama of shoehorning all the Delco goodies into their cars now in favour of simple and relatively cheap aftermarket real-time programmeable fuel and ignition ECU's. If they have difficulty with getting a suitable dizzy they just remove the dizzy altogether and use a simple and cheap crank fired hall effect CAS which would be a doddle on the kraut.

The results they get at the end of the day are good enough tho without the bother of adding any other gizmos to the system that may not be necessary.

Make sure that you are not chasing red herrings as far as speed sensing is concerned.

L8tr dude
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posted on April 22nd, 2004 at 08:19 AM


Yep, I have read this too and what you say is all true. The Delco system will run fine without the VSS, however I have heard the VSS allows for better/smoother 'just open throttle' running (ie: very low speed, like you would find in a traffic jamb etc), basically making the system just a little better to drive. The VSS is not really a big deal, however I considered that if it was going to be easy to create, then it may as well be done. I'm just looking at all possible alternatives/options.

Oh yeah, one of the major functions of the VSS is for emissions control, something that is not all that high on my list of important issues (oh dear, I can hear the greenies comments from here!:P)

R




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posted on May 7th, 2004 at 02:23 PM
Update time...


...well not much has happened over the past few weeks - sort of ran out of money (for spending on the car anyway) so at my wifes instistance, I have put the EFI system on hold for a couple of weeks - so close yet so far:(. I only really have to mount the gearbox on the pan, then the engine o the box and finish the wiring loom mods - not a great deal of expence to do this however the 'better' half sees any time spent working on the car as a waste of money at the moment so it is all going on hold until this 'issue' blows over.

What this extra time has allowed me to do is update my website with more details regarding the EFI system (as well as more pics from the events we have been to recently:thumb). The site is basically up-to-date so you can see what I have (and haven't) done. Any comments welcome.

...so, hows everyone else going? Anyone having more sucess than me? I have had a fair few thoughts about re-doing the end castings that I am going to use as I feel that the modifications that I have had done to mine are just too rough and are likely to allow air to leak through where the injectors are mounted. I will be leaving this until I have at least attempted to start the engine so that I know of any other problems to be aware of before I re-do them. Other than that, I am reasonably happy with the way it is all coming together.....

R




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posted on June 7th, 2004 at 11:40 AM


...ok, back again!

I have finally earned enough brownie points to be allowed back into the garage:thumb

During the last week I have laid the floorpan back down flat again (it was leaning against the wall to give me a bit more room) and have put the long axels onto the box before fitting it to the pan. I attempted to reset the rear suspention, but gave up when I realised that the pan alone doens't have enough weight to offer resistance against the forces of the torsion bars - I'll have another go at this once the body is back on the pan. I then fitted the engine to the gearbox (isn't that a simple procedure when there is no bodywork in the way!)

I still have to fit the backing plates to the axels (and the axel boots now I think about it!), then fill the box with oil. The old exhaust system has to be removed and my O2 sensor modified system fitted - then I can finish fitting the injectors and the injector hold down brackets.... then its just the wiring and the plumbing (fuel) to be done!:D

I am hoping to have this up and running in the next week (or at least by Wednesday of the following week)

I still haven't made a decision on a temp sensor for the FI system yet - I need a temp conversion scale (deg F to deg C or the other way around) so that I can do some comparasons between the temp sens II from the Kombi FI system and the origional Camira part - any suggestions? It was suggested that I simply wire in a resistor and a switch - label the switch 'choke' and switch it on when it is cold - yeah...ok...it would work, but sort of defeats the purpose of having such a high tech system doesn't it?

OK, I'm off now to go and raid my brothers garage in an effort to get back all of my 'missing' tools....:puke

R




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posted on June 21st, 2004 at 01:06 PM


...just picked up a copy of 'Electronic Engine Management - Reference Manual' by Frank 'Choco' Munday - a new book written in Australia for people that are just learning - a good read!

Choco is also a big fan of the Delco system that I will be using (as soon as everything else is finished) so it goes through the how and why of the Delco too.

Just thought some of you might be interested....

R




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posted on June 21st, 2004 at 01:33 PM


Thanks Ratty

I will have to look out for that manual over here (NZ).

Written in Australian eh, oh well the NZ / Aussie accent isn't tooooo different so I should be able to understand it :thumb

Cheers
Jeremy




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posted on June 21st, 2004 at 04:40 PM


R-where did you manage to score that?-I have been trying to get one thru' the Kalmaker Forum but haven't had any joy.
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posted on June 22nd, 2004 at 09:58 AM


I picked it up at the Mudgeeraba Swap meet on Sunday - from Mountain Motor Books (based in Cooparoo, Brisbane. Ph (07)33976845 or email freeway@eis.net.au)

The book goes over the basics of fuel injection - it's written in a 'EFI for Dummies' style - good basic info without the jargon and complex info to bog you down. Lots of pictures to look at whilst digesting the info! Good reference section in the back too. Formulas for the more common calculations are also included. It's not enough to get your EFI running, but it will certainly give you a good idea about where to start and which direction to head in (and why you should and should not do certain things)!

One thing is for sure - the author definatly does NOT like carbs!:thumb

R

[Edited on 21-6-2004 by ratty 63]




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posted on June 22nd, 2004 at 10:39 AM


...just has a closer look at the book. There is an address on the back you might also try:

Graffiti Publications P/L
PO Box 232 Castlemaine, Vic, 3450, Australia
PH: (03)54723653
Email: graffiti@netcon.net.au
Web: http://www.graffitipub.com.au 

R




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posted on June 22nd, 2004 at 12:55 PM


...man, I spend too much time sitting in front of this computer and not working on my EFI system!:puke

...however, I just did a comparason between the temp sender on the Camira and the Temp Sender II from the VW and once I had converted the figures to the same temp measurement (deg F to deg C) a visual comparason showed them to be fairly close - I did graph them but I can't work out how to turn the graph into something I can post here (eg a jpg or similar). There is almost no difference between the resistances at higher temps (remember that the Delco and some of the better ECU's will go into damage control at high temps so the sender still has to work at these temps), and at the lower end of the temp scale they are still fairly close. My only concern is that the VW sender can read temp values much higher than the Camira ones (head temp Vs water temp) so I wonder what effect that will have on the operation.... Due to a lack of other information and options I think I will end up using a temp sender II and just see how I go...

OK, back to the garage to finish the fuel plumbing (again!)

R




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posted on June 22nd, 2004 at 01:47 PM


Ratty

If you want to put a graph up, take a screen shot (ie on a PC hit the Print Screen button on the top right of the keyboard) and paste it into paint (or similar) then you can cut out the part you want and save it as a jpg.

Sorry not very FI oriented advice....

CU
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posted on June 23rd, 2004 at 12:09 PM


Thanks Jeremy,

I'll give that a go later this afternoon - have to deliver the company car to the mechanics right now for a service - I had thought of doing that but thought that the picture quality might have suffered - to the point of it not being worthwhile, but I will give it a go - nothing ventured, nothing gained.

R




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posted on June 23rd, 2004 at 01:35 PM


Awesome reading!!! I too want to convert to programmable EFI down the track, but hadn't bothered investigating it because it is currently an unrealistic financial goal. I am really pleased however to find that your system is probably going to come in at around $2000 - I had been guessing at closer to $5000!!

Maybe the conversion isn't as far off as I thought! Mine will be on my current stock 1800 engine in my 75 kombi. I hope to use the manifolds and plumbing straight off my 76 2 litre FI motor that I still have lying around. This should give it a 'factory look', while still having the benefits of modern efi.

Keep us posted, this thread makes excellent food for thought! :thumb




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posted on June 23rd, 2004 at 02:02 PM


Thanks R-will certainly get that one.Have given up on my home brand FI- am getting some throttle bodies which are a replacement for my Webers-will still use all the Delco stuff.Map sensor will be an issue but may be able to make a vaccuum pot with the 4 manifold pipes going into it.Will be better than just using TPS.Settlement day today for the house we bought so am now in a position to know what my finances are- can now get back into the Beast and get some of the big $ jobs done.
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smile.gif posted on June 24th, 2004 at 09:04 AM
Calcs for temp sender


OK, I think it is just because it is early in the morning, but I can't get the graph to display correctly in Excel....so I have decided that I will just post the figures that I used - it is fairly obvious just by looking at the numbers that they are going to be close, with the only problem being, what happens when the head temp goes beyond the limits of resistance of the Camira water temps sensor - will the ECU still be able to handle it? Whilst the temp sensor is mainly used for cold start, the Delco ECU can also go into 'damage control' mode if things get too hot (inject fuel but switch off spark to cool the cylinders), it would be nice to be able to use this feature too.....

...just a quick note about the figures - the temps for the VW sender are rounded to the nearest degree, as the original figures that I recieved were in deg F, and the conversion to deg C has caused some longish decimal places to be created - shouldn't make any difference though...

Temp Sender II (head temp):
Temp Deg C Ohms
20 2290
36 1453
49 981
63 611
76 408
89 286
100 187
115 138
128 103
135 85
154 62
163 51

Camira Sensor (coolant temp):
Temp Deg C Ohms
0 6000
20 2500
30 1800
40 1200
70 450
90 250
100 190
110 110

:)

KrusinKombi, I wish that I could have used the factory standard stuff (manifolds, etc) on my engine, but finding FI manifolds to suit a Type I engine is next to impossible in Aust., plus there was some question as to how restrictive the factory manifolds are, compared to a set of modified twin port end castings. The manifolds are one of the biggest issues when setting up an EFI system (in my opinion:) ). My Brother is bugging me to set up his Baja (Type IV powered with Porsche fan) with EFI - we will still have to mod the manifolds to clear the fan, but at least we will be able to use all the factory Type IV fittings.... Going to get mine running first before we start anything else!

NBTurbo, I have seen these castings that you are planning on using - very nice. What sort of price range are they in (if you don't mind me asking)? As for the MAP sensor - what I have seen done on other twin TB vehicles is the MAP sensor is connected to the balance pipe between the two TB's, giving an average vac reading from both the manifolds...do the castings you are planning on using have provision for a balance pipe?

OK, back to the garage - must get this finished.....

R:)




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posted on June 24th, 2004 at 09:07 AM


D'oh:cussing

The figures were all set out neatly, with headings and all, when I typed them, but now they are posted, all the spaces have been removed making them a little harder to read.... do they still make sense?

R




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posted on June 24th, 2004 at 11:38 AM


I priced them about 12 months ago and came in about $600 each-so decided to home build.If I added up the expense so far,I think at $1200 for 2 would have been a lot cheaper to just buy them at the start.Just wanted to make my own for personal satisfaction-never mind. Still have to buy a fuel pump-can get a "fuel miser" replacement for a Commudoor for $250 from Repco or a second hand for about $80.Will get a new one though-any ideas for a cheaper option.
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biggrin.gif posted on June 30th, 2004 at 01:39 AM
Arrrrggggg!


I have been trying to make sense of the Camira wiring loom all day and I think it might be time to give it a break!

I have discovered that the loom not only includes wiring for all the EFI sensors, injectors, and fuel pump, but also the wiring for the charging circuit, Air conditioning, starter motor and for the Auto trans control (fancy such a ....er .... crappy .... yeah, that will do:P, fancy such a crappy car having an electronically controlled auto box, still basic by todays standards though...). This means that I will have to remove all the excess wiring in the loom so that I end up with only what I need .... :bounce

I think I will leave the A/C control wiring in the loom for a future project....;)

I have come across an interesting thing whilst searching through the wiring diagrams: The GM's appear to have the oil pressure switch connected as part of the fuel pump circuit. It would appear that the oil pressure switch has some sort of control over the fuel pump along with being responsible for triggering the warning light on the dashboard. Not sure what effect it has on the pump circuit yet, anyone have any ideas? The wiring diagrams don't show the internal working of the switch, so I can't see exactly what they do....:(

Still have a couple of plugs to ID but I think I will leave that until tomorrow (...er...actually it will be later today - 1:34am)

C'ya:)

R




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posted on June 30th, 2004 at 12:51 PM


Hey!

I posted a fairly lengthy blurb here very early this morning (about 1:30am) and now its not here - actually it didn't come up when I posted it either, but I have had that happen before so I wasn't too worried - wots going on? Admin?

R




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posted on June 30th, 2004 at 12:59 PM


It came up cause I read it!!!!! Is it the one you posted at 139 am??It is still there:mad:



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posted on June 30th, 2004 at 05:28 PM


Ratty
"remember that the ECU and software is worth just over $1100 - a big chunk of the $2000".

Is this how much you have actually paid for the delco ECU and software or are you quoting against aftermarket stuff??

l8tr
E




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posted on July 1st, 2004 at 10:27 AM


Hi all,

Looks like my posts are back - yay! :thumb I was starting to wonder if I had done something wrong....

tassupervee, the $1100 was for the Kalmaker Streetpro 3 package, which includes the Delco ECU fitted with the real time modification, Streetpro 3 software, cabling (from ECU to laptop PC) and instructions.

nbturbo, I understand what you mean when you say you wanted to make your own manifolds for personal satisfaction, however, I also know why you are now looking at buying them! Not the easiest thing to set up....I'm still going with my home made manifolds at this stage, but any hint of trouble with them and I'm going to lash out and have something professionally made to do the job.

For those of you who are planning on having a go at the Delco set-up, my comments above about the wiring diagram in the Gregorys manual not being 100% correct appear to be true. Also, the oil pressure switch IS connected in line with the fuel pump in the GM cars! No one quite knows why, perhaps so that the fuel pump doesn't start to operate until the engine has oil pressure.... thats the best explanation so far - but I have been told that it is not necessary to connect the loom in this way, so to make it easier for myself I'm going to leave the oil pressure switch out of this loom. I was sent this link to a zip file, which answers a few questions and clarifys things a little. Worth a look if you are going to tackle the Camira loom. ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/pub/gmecm/manuals/1227808/je.zip

OK, back to the wiring for me!

R




40hp, 6V and ...er... slowly making improvements :lol:

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posted on July 1st, 2004 at 12:52 PM


The reason why the oil light is connected to the fuel pump is a safety issue.

EFI systems have various forms of fuel cuts that are designed to act in the case of an accident. It's so when you crash and the fuel line ruptures, the pump doesn't continuous spraying fuel at a very high flow rate all over the crash scene.

Mechanical pumps don't have the prob, cos if the engine stops then they stop.

Sound like the camira was wired so when the engine stopped, the oil light come on and the fuel pump stopped.

More modern EFI use other methods of feed back to decide whether the engine is running (the tacho being useful), and turn the fuel pump on and off accordingly.




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posted on July 1st, 2004 at 01:24 PM


Ratty63-Your question on Kalmaker about coils.As I told you ,I am using a modified Volvo distributor(for now) and because it is the same size as a 009 it only has a small diameter cap.My EFI Wizard got me to buy a standard 12 volt coil because high output ones will destroy the cap-hence the use of large diameter caps on EFI cars-well thats how he explained it to me,because the spark is so fierce it arcs across the terminals.We are investigating getting the gear off a late Lada Niva engine to go with crank angle sensor fired ignition.Can even use 4 spark plug coils then.
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posted on July 2nd, 2004 at 10:52 AM


Wes, I thought of the saftey issue too - it makes sense to me, however I have been told (by one person) that the fuel pump does not stop if you loose oil pressure (once the engine is running), however the fuel pump relay won't pull in until the engine has oil pressure(when starting)... the wiring diagram doesn't have enough detail to show exactly how it works so without doing tests on a Camira or a Commodore I won't know exactly. It's not of vital importance to me - I was only making sure that the oil pressure switch does not necessarily need to be wired into the loom. I will continue to investigate, and may include a GM switch in my set-up if it turns out to be a worthwhile addition.

Hmmm, nbturbo, I can see the theory behind your choice of coils. I may have to go that way in the future as my brother has now decided that he is going to go with the Delco too (in the future) on his Type IV powered Baja, and he is starting to collect the necessary parts to do the conversion. The first thing he noticed is that the modified Camira dissy is going to be a very close fit to the fan shroud (Porsche style) due to its extra diameter and actually may not fit, so the Volvo dissy is one item we are looking into to get around this problem. If this we end up having to go for the Volvo dissy, then it would appear that I will have to use a 'standard' coil too.....

I'm off to the garage again, must get this wiring finished.....

R

[Edited on 2-7-2004 by ratty 63]




40hp, 6V and ...er... slowly making improvements :lol:

It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!

Founding member of the Gold Coast Dub Club Inc. :)
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