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Author: Subject:  2715cc Pauter Build-up(New stuff most days!)
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posted on June 13th, 2006 at 05:39 PM



no way dave its vw based . i had a reply back from mario of pauter he said that type 4 gears with type 1 hole centres dont exist ,the gear set on the pauter is that 6 mm apart and the holes same as type 1 and crank dia same as type 1 .thanks john
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posted on June 15th, 2006 at 12:58 AM



Hey Dave,
I just sat down and reread all these posts.Alot of the things you have in this motor are things I have only seen in advertisements,again,thanks for the peek inside.With the journal overlap at the crank webbing,it won't flex or brake in the center main,very impressive! Bearings should hold up for a long time.When I was flow benching my heads years ago,my flow started to flatten out about 25% of the size of the valve head,so I ran a long duration cam to keep it in that sweet spot as long as we could and still have some bottom end,is that the idea behind your new cam and valve train? thanks, Mike
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posted on June 17th, 2006 at 07:44 PM



The cam profile in this engine is an extreme change from the one I have been running.
I want to experiment with more duration, to see what point the car loses performance at the track
with a different power and torque peak.
In theory the engine should see the higher flow points (of the heads) for longer,
and so produce more of everything.
Problem will be keeping the RPM up in the power with the gearing that I currently use.
The new cam has 20 more degrees@.050" than the one I have been using.
It will most likely produce less torque, but the peak will occur at a higher RPM,
thus producine a higher power output.
I have also refitted the higher ratio inlet rocker, than the other cam used.
The engine sounds totally different, so it should be fun and interesting to drive
...just waiting for the opportunity, it is all ready, just waiting for a run!




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That's mad Alan.
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posted on June 19th, 2006 at 04:48 AM



When you get a chance,e mail me your spec's,open and close times,I will run it through my simulator and send to you results.I know it works great on n/a because I have used it on my ghia and the dragster we had(hot vw's b/d mph holder car),we did not reset record but were trying, till we ran out of money,lol
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posted on July 15th, 2006 at 07:33 AM



Today the 15th of July was my last opportunity for a run before I become and unemployed bum...but it is raining out side...DOH!
Perhaps I will just walk the earth, and get into adventures, just like Cane off Kung Fu.




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That's mad Alan.
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posted on July 15th, 2006 at 09:52 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by dragvw2180................................ but were trying, till we ran out of money,lol


I very common theme.....................

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posted on July 15th, 2006 at 12:16 PM



So whats up Dave?.... Y u now a gold coast bum?



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posted on July 15th, 2006 at 04:42 PM



Been working on permanent casual, at Crankshaft Engineering for 10 years on the 29th of July.
So it is time to move on.
Have nothing planned but will have two months of being a Bum and getting into adventures.
Been thinking of a variety of options like self employment, study, or just unemployment.
Or may be a combination of all three.
I am sick of working for penuts, so would rather do nothing.
Whats that?... a tradesman shortage?... Plenty out there, they just dont have the incentive any more.




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posted on July 15th, 2006 at 05:38 PM



Come to WA Dave.... Plenty of work here and you could work for yourself too.... Besides... the surf and the beaches are better over here!!!!



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posted on July 15th, 2006 at 09:49 PM



it would be an absolute shame for your talents to go to waste. Freelance.
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posted on July 20th, 2006 at 06:03 AM



Had three runs last night but with mixed/dissappointing results.
Best was 11.44@114.8...close to my record, but engine is not too good...will report later.
Did run my best ever 60 foot time however...1.54...nice wheely too.
Better go down and see what carnage I have done....


Actually, 4 runs...

[ Edited on 20-7-2006 by dangerous ]




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That's mad Alan.
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posted on July 20th, 2006 at 07:22 AM



Ahhhh....would've come out if I had known you were out there.
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posted on July 20th, 2006 at 07:22 AM



Dropped the filter and not too bad, there is some fine particals in there but until I get inside the engine, wont know if it is metal, or just the never-seize, that I used on all the nuts and bolts.
The clutch was definitely slipping on the last run(11.59@114.7) off the line and into 4th gear.
Dropped the rocker covers off and all is sweet in there with my mega pushrods and .690 lift. That was one of my paranoia areas and it is fine in that department.
The oil pressure was a little low after each run so will look inside the engine on Saturday.
So, had four runs :
11.87@113.09
11.44@114.1
11.50@114.83
11.59@114.71...that bounced around like a mad man when the cluch finally bit in low gear.
Best 60 foot was 1.54 and best half track was 7.187@94.02(best is 7.185@94.22).
Overall it looks like it has more power, being that the fuel system was leaned off on
each run and that the cam was coming on at 4000, and really took off at above 6000...it only went 6600 in 4th and computor says 7600 is sweet.
More later.
Better go to work!!!!!!!



[ Edited on 28-7-2006 by dangerous ]

[ Edited on 27-9-2006 by dangerous ]




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That's mad Alan.
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posted on July 20th, 2006 at 01:10 PM



Excellent new Dave.... Its all coming together..... Now for some more tracktime....



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posted on July 20th, 2006 at 09:15 PM
Tear Down...cant wait until Saturday!


Well, dived in and pulled off the lid.
Checking the bearings on these Pauter blocks is so easy.
Had everything done and checked within an hour.
Lets see if the photos come out!

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Originally posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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posted on July 20th, 2006 at 09:18 PM



Removed the lid and cross bolts, and then the cap nuts.
This slide hammer is the one that Pauter supplys with the case.
It uses a VW 8mm head stud and nut.
Mains were in perfect shape.




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posted on July 20th, 2006 at 09:25 PM



Then the rod nuts were removed from the #3 and #2 rods.
From experience I know that if the engine suffers from oil starvation
at any brief moment, the rod bearing closest to the pump is the one that suffers the most.
I had a low pressure situation on a couple of runs as I backed off at the end of two runs,
and this has shown up on the #2 rod bearing shell but not #3.
These are not too bad but will check the others and replace as neccesary.
Will have to rehash the oil grade and system pressur to ensure a constant supply.

[ Edited on 20-7-2006 by dangerous ]

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Quote:
Originally posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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posted on July 20th, 2006 at 09:33 PM



When I back off the throttle after a run, the oil surges forward and uncovers the pick-up that is in the sump.
The oil capacity is 5 litres plus the filter volume, and with the latrge main bearing diameter and the oil clearance that I have set up,
there is very little oil left in the sump at the end of the track.
I was concerned about this and so ran less system pressure using an external bypass that recurculates to the pump suction,
and also a small 26mm pump.
Will most likely inspect everything and then change to a heavyer grade of hot oil viscosity.




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That's mad Alan.
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posted on July 21st, 2006 at 09:28 PM



Dave,
I know you have a minimum weight you HAVE to run on your car,Why haven't you added a dry sump system to your car,would eliminate the oiling problems.Did not know if you could remove some weight to allow for it.
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posted on July 22nd, 2006 at 08:51 AM



Hi Mike,
I am still 50 lbs over min weight .
But I have plans for some lightening (wheels), and can slot a dry sump system in.
That will solve many problems and allow me to run a little more system pressure
without the starvation.
May put some rocker cover drains on too.




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posted on July 26th, 2006 at 01:55 PM



the only thing good about all that oil in the heads is that it is transfering heat to that oil so it can disapate and keep the temps down. Too bad you can't expand your sump for another another couple liters oil capacity w/out doing dry sump.
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posted on July 26th, 2006 at 04:35 PM



Dave going dry sump is the smart move.
That way, the bulk of the engine sans deep sumps and the like can be kept down and there is NEVER an issue with oil sloshing about on launch. Crankwheels paddling in oil surged back in the sump, further aerating it ceases to be an issue as well

The remote oil tank can be made in ANY capacity he desires and the real issue there is actually getting enough heat INTO the oil in the first place.
The oil temp is not influenced by the heat of the cases and since there is no big slug of oil sitting in the sump heat is lost much fasterby the sprayed oil runniong down the cases than with the oil sitting in there.

My tank holds just over 5 litres but he can make it whatever capacity that gives him a stiffy!
Oil likes to be at its specified operating temp to perform as advertised. Thats usually specified at 100 Deg. C
I addressed this issue with a 100w 240V heater element mounted inside my remote tank.
The oil is heated up to about 75Deg.C after about 1 hour plugged in and stays pretty much there after that.
Mine is scientific as i got the heater element very cheaply but nothing more scientific than a 4" sealed beam 100W driving light aimed close to the tank will work almost as well.

Moroso make immersion heaters that look a bit like a fish tank heater as well that run on 12V and there are lots of flat, pad style heaters that can be wrapped around the tank, or that tank sat directly on.

The engine will rarely, if ever pump any aerated oil as by the time the oil runs down the pan, goes thru coolers, filters and spun around the remote tank, it has pretty much been totally de-aerated. Not to mention the time it will spend in the remote tank before it gets used again.

Another cool thing for him is that the primary work has been done in preparation for dry sump conversion in that the existing oil pumps supply and delivery lines are already external and the job of ganging up the scavenge pump, say at least 30% larger than the pressure pump will be a doddle for him.

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posted on July 26th, 2006 at 09:12 PM



I have nearly everything I need for the dry sump system, just need a spot to mount the tank, that wont requre a ton of hose and fittings.
The car is IRS so it may have to be mounted ahead of the tortion tube.




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posted on July 27th, 2006 at 05:17 AM



Hey DAVE,
Would you save any weight by using hard line rather than braided for the main line from and to the tank with short hoses attached to pump?Seems like you could run them lower that way also.I know that all the braded line we had when we ran HILBORN injection was pretty heavy when put in a box compared to a roll off aluminum hard line.
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posted on July 27th, 2006 at 04:01 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by dangerous
I have nearly everything I need for the dry sump system, just need a spot to mount the tank, that wont requre a ton of hose and fittings.
The car is IRS so it may have to be mounted ahead of the tortion tube.


What oil capacity are you looking at Dave?
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posted on July 27th, 2006 at 08:27 PM



Currently running 5 litres plus the filter, which should be more than enough.
But any where between that and 7 litres I guess.




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posted on July 27th, 2006 at 08:42 PM



Yup.
Im running the same really.
Tank holds 5.3 litres full but i just upend a 5 litr oil container. Makes it pretty straightforward!
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posted on July 29th, 2006 at 08:09 AM



I added a photo of the car at the track.
It is above the most recent engine photos.




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posted on July 30th, 2006 at 08:06 PM



Finished the bearing inspection and all was fine except No 2 cylinder, which I replaced the bearing shells.
Before running again I will double check the pump holes for alignment,
and investigate the use of restrictors for the valve train. Also drain backs for the valve covers.

[ Edited on 30-7-2006 by dangerous ]

[ Edited on 27-9-2006 by dangerous ]

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That's mad Alan.
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posted on July 30th, 2006 at 09:00 PM



Can't wait to see it back in action again Dave! :bounce



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