| [ Total Views: 155191 | Total Replies: 188 | Thread Id: 50894 ] |
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 tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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That really hurts doesnt it!
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| posted on June 3rd, 2007 at 10:29 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Stanley
Something like the attached photo. Won't be equal length but the merge/collector will be at the turbo flange.
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Altho equal length headers are desrieable, unless you have tuned the entire system to match you heads, cam timing and so-on the benefits are simply
not here over an unequal length interference setup when speaking turbo collectors.
Even a basic log manifold works quite well.
Its just not worth getting to concerned with M8.
Just rout your pipes up so they come together where you need to.
Use heavy walled steampipe ands youe turbo moving around issues will tend to go away as well.
See if you can securely bracket the dump pipe to some part of the head or exhaust studs as well.
Keep at it M8. Great job.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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Turbo54
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| posted on June 4th, 2007 at 05:04 PM |
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Don't bother with stainless unless your using bolier tube. Go Steel and have it ceramic coated.
Cant wait to see your next 1/4 time.
T54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
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Stanley
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| posted on June 4th, 2007 at 07:42 PM |
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aimimg for a test and tune on Wednesday the 27th June. I'm pretty sure Dangerous Dave will be there in his rocket testing the new exhaust.
I'm still in two minds about my exhaust. I will run it the way it is now and just see what improvements the elec ignition and more boost have. The
money might be better spent at this stage on a dyno session.
I'm still running it with the needle that came with the SU I bought from ebay and a swag (scientific wild arse guess) on the mixture.
I'm hoping to get into the 15's next outing. Might even try some 14'' wheels
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Stanley
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| posted on June 8th, 2007 at 06:12 PM |
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fitted a gated boost controller today so will be able to up the boost. i'm aiming for 9-10 psi.
Also found a place in Ipswich with a dyno so have booked the TAT in next Friday for a dyno session. This is specifically for setting the boost and
tuning the carb. I want to make sure it's not leaning out.
I'll let you know how it goes.
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Stanley
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| posted on June 15th, 2007 at 05:35 PM |
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Put the TAT on the dyno today to check and make sure it wasn’t leaning out and to set the boost after fitting the boost controller.
Mixed results….had all sorts of problems with the boost controller and best I could manage was 6.5psi for one pull and managed 88hp. After that it
all went down hill. Tried to get more boost but the boost controller started playing up and the only run I have on paper was 72HP@ not quite 5 psi.
As far as tuning the SU goes it was leaning out ever so slightly which I tried to richen with the mixture but all that achieved was a rough idle. I
will need to get a needle that richens the mixture at top end rather than at idle.
So for $95 I now know I need a new jet, I also now that once I get some boost in there it will certainly develop some HP and finally I don’t need to
rev it to 5500rpm as it makes it’s HP currently at 5000rpm.
Finally, I have 4 kids and that was pretty nerve wracking during their births but, watching some dude in your car flogging the crap out of it to
5500rpm multiple times was pretty traumatic I must say.
Now to fix the boost before the next T&T
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
Scirocco Rare
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| posted on June 15th, 2007 at 07:54 PM |
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Good stuff.
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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That really hurts doesnt it!
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| posted on June 15th, 2007 at 08:20 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Stanley
As far as tuning the SU goes it was leaning out ever so slightly which I tried to richen with the mixture but all that achieved was a rough idle. I
will need to get a needle that richens the mixture at top end rather than at idle.
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yes M8, that adjuster on the needle jet is simply for idle mixture.
One drama with that boost controller would have had me simply removing it in the short term and doing a couple of pulls @ 7psi or so. Whatever that
wastegate actuator is rated at.
You say it was leaning out slightly.
What EGO's did you return on that pull?
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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seagull
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| posted on June 15th, 2007 at 08:22 PM |
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Tass you have a PM !
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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seagull
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| posted on June 15th, 2007 at 08:26 PM |
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Finally, I have 4 kids and that was pretty nerve wracking during their births
I stayed at the head end during this .I think it was a smart move
good reading with this post
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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koolkarmakombi
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| posted on June 16th, 2007 at 08:04 AM |
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'Old skool doesn't mean cheap. The TAT owes me more than it cost to fit a suby to my sons kombi. But I did it just to do it basically. a 1916 may
have been cheaper but everyone has one of those......:P'
quoted from another post,
I was intrigued with the comment of cost -vs- the suby fit. I have always looked at that as a 4-5k job (ej22 so comparing apples), I then wondered on
how tightarse this is?. At a rough guestimate, not for discussion with wives nor bank managers... how tight is your arse?
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't
quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons,
living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer
upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this
disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
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Stanley
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| posted on June 16th, 2007 at 09:27 AM |
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Statement might be ever so slightly exaggerated and it probably could have been done cheaper, but if I had to pay someone to do all the stuff I did
myself it might workout the same. It probably cost about 3 – 3.5k to do the kombi conversion because we did most of that ourselves.
This is about what the TAT owes me including the engine rebuild at a rough guess. It's taken a few years so the memory is not as good. Maybe this is
a good thing.
If anyone tells my wife I will hunt them down and do to them what she would do to me.
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Stanley
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| posted on June 17th, 2007 at 08:55 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by tassupervee
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Stanley
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You say it was leaning out slightly.
What EGO's did you return on that pull?
L8tr
E
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14.2 - 14.4 going by the graph if i'm reading it right?
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humpty
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| posted on June 17th, 2007 at 10:03 AM |
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Great development Andy.... Im diggin' this little project so much.... Real world shit.... Keep it coming...
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
Custom Title Time!
That really hurts doesnt it!
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| posted on June 17th, 2007 at 12:02 PM |
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| Quote: | 14.2 - 14.4 going by
the graph if i'm reading it right?
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K, thats sailing pretty close to the wind but with the low boost you are running along with low CR and very retarded ignition, id not be concerned at
all by that.
Its an expensive exercise to buy different needles so i used to procure old ones out of parts carbs and modify them to suit.
You need to measure the needle and divide it up into, say 3mm increments.
Then just measure off the needle with your trusty verniers along those marks to give you a thicknesses at each point.
All i used to do was grab the needle in a drill and grasp the needle with some light wet and dry between my fingers and run the drill.
All the while moving the paper along the needle sos not to create "grooves" from the sand paper sitting in the one spot.
Measure it off again and compare it to your original measurements top keep a track of where you have removed metal, and how much.
Finish off the needle with some Scotchbrite or some 600.
It would help if you knew what piston lift corresponded with the leanout but to determine that will cost you another hundred buck i spose!
It might be fair to say that it was wide open, or close to wide open (fully up) that was the culprit as you indicated the problem was up high.
Id try removing about .010 off the offending end of the needle and give it another run.
Thall fuel it up.
keep your AFR's at around 13 to 13.5 and youll be laughing.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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Stanley
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| posted on June 17th, 2007 at 08:13 PM |
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cheers E...thanks
Although after todays testing i'm starting to wonder whether I'm actually able to make any more than 5psi boost.
I'll do some more testing through the week.
BTW...if I pull my carb off and pump up my inlet manifold using a compressor will I hurt anything?
here's the dyno sheet...hope it is readable
[ Edited on 17-6-2007 by Stanley ]
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Stanley
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| posted on June 17th, 2007 at 08:27 PM |
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try again
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
Custom Title Time!
That really hurts doesnt it!
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| posted on June 17th, 2007 at 08:52 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Stanley
BTW...if I pull my carb off and pump up my inlet manifold using a compressor will I hurt anything?
[ Edited on 17-6-2007 by Stanley ]
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No!
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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Stanley
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| posted on June 18th, 2007 at 07:42 PM |
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Did some tests tonight. Borrowed an extremely accurate gauge from work and found my VDO gauge reads 1 psi low.
Also found I have no leaks n the intake manifold.
What I did find is that the gated boost controller I bought leaks air across the ball and seat which then leaks out the bleed hole.
What I want is a quick acting controller that doesn’t leak i.e. sees 10psi then snaps open and opens the wastegate. Thought about blocking or making
the bleed hole smaller. I guess this may play havoc with the wastegate closing.
Next Wednesday T&T I will try 2 things. Blocking the air bleed which should allow the wastegate to snap open at the desired boost, but hopefully
leaking enough to allow it to close again. If this fails I’ll disconnect the wastegate and prove once and for all if I’m even capable of making
boost. Hopefully if it does I can be quick enough to back off before bits of the TAT hit the track.
My guess at this stage is that best I might see is about 8psi if I can fix the leaks and the creeping wastegate. Just waiting for some info on the
turbo housings to see whether it’s matched to my engine capacity. It’s off an EXA so by all accounts it should be. It’s starting to frustrate
me……..
Tried setting the boost but don’t know how much air to put in the manifold.
Any other suggestions?
[ Edited on 18-6-2007 by Stanley ]
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tassupervee
A.k.a.: Knob Jockey
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| posted on June 19th, 2007 at 08:42 PM |
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Altho in pushthru, those little turbos will make upwards of 16psi @ 6000rpm plus on a 1500 E15et engine so I seriously doubt the turbo is the
culprit.
Invoke the "K.I.S.S" principle here and go back to basics.
I would suggest your boost controller could possibly the culprit and my thinking is to remove it altogether in the short term.
E15et T2's are wastegated at around 7 to 8psi. They vary a bit but perhaps a PSI either way at the very most.
Honestly M8, those fandangled boost controllers are often a niucance and you cannot beat a simple tee-piece, a bit of hose, a needle valve and a
restriction in the line between the wastegate and the tee-piece.
Id also be disregarding things like boost creep, spooling times and so-on. It just isnt that much of an issue.
A T2 is a very small and fast responding turbo and so-what if the boost creeps a psi or so for half a second or so.....meh.
You wont feel the difference especially in a pull-thru setup which in itself, will introduce lag and slow down spooling.
Nor will you grenade and engine even if the boost spikes a bit.....relax.
One step at a time M8.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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koolkarmakombi
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| posted on June 20th, 2007 at 09:29 AM |
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Do you read Autospeed?
Do a search on there for boost controllers. They discuss a range of options like TSV explained.
http://www.autospeed.com
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't
quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons,
living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer
upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this
disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
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Stanley
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| posted on June 20th, 2007 at 04:02 PM |
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Thanks guys
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westi
Custom Title Time!
what the
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| posted on June 20th, 2007 at 08:45 PM |
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big fan of your work
i was thinking of doing the same kind of thing for shits and giggles.
i have an su like yours ,i think.
what fuel pump did you use ?
and did you do anything trick to the su to get it to work better.
the reason i ask is because we are going to atempt to do everything in one night.extractors,piping,etc,etc .ready to turn key.
if you have any info or trouble shooting tips that will aid me that would be great.
i will take some photo's the the one night stand,it should be good fun.
anyway keep the pics coming,
down sharon.
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Stanley
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| posted on August 19th, 2007 at 04:34 PM |
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The new exhaust which will allow me to run more boost without leakage and maybe even be more efficient.
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bond
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| posted on August 19th, 2007 at 04:42 PM |
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what did you have done stanley?
looks great!
nick
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koolkarmakombi
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| posted on August 20th, 2007 at 03:29 PM |
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sensational, more pics please mate!
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't
quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons,
living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer
upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this
disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
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Stanley
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| posted on August 20th, 2007 at 06:19 PM |
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The black system is what I have been running so far. it was a set of standard 1 1/2" thunderbird extractors with an "addition" however, the clamps
were leaking under boost me thinks.
The new set are 1 5/8" tube and connect to a set of empi flanged at both end "J" tubes. The only thing is the empi "J" tubes run very close to
the heads. Time will tell.
Good thing is everthing still fits under the decklid.
[ Edited on 20-8-2007 by Stanley ]
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Dasdubber
A.k.a.: Alan Agyik
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| posted on August 20th, 2007 at 08:32 PM |
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So mate - you reckon the TAT will be right for warwick?
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Stanley
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
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| posted on August 21st, 2007 at 06:55 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Dasdubber
So mate - you reckon the TAT will be right for warwick?
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absolutely Alan....can't wait
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Stanley
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| posted on August 27th, 2007 at 12:23 PM |
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For anyone who's interested here's the new exhaust all ready for warwick.
http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j37/stanley111/?action=view¤t=NewExha...
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njg02
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| posted on August 27th, 2007 at 01:32 PM |
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Love it Stanley. Gotta be street and strip surely.
Neil
71 super in progress.
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