| [ Total Views: 53795 | Total Replies: 202 | Thread Id: 65678 ] |
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 Joel
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| posted on March 8th, 2009 at 08:34 PM |
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Nick, yea its a cover for the bearing but it also locates a circlip which locks in place the electric field magnet thing that pulls the clutch in
im running without it has been fine for 2000 odd KMs
i went thro a box of pulleys at the wreckers and found that one it had toyota 4A on it and i remember the exs AE92 corolla having one like it drive
the power steer and A/C
it just had 4 mounting holes from memory
i used the original clutch splined bit bolted to it
oil is piece of piss
my safistimacated NASA developed mount franklin bottle makes light work of it
Even if i still had points on that thing it changing and gapping them would be a walk in park compared to adjusting the powersteering/Aircon belt on
my ford
god damn front wheel drive twin cam frigging engines
u cant even see the f'king belt let alone get ur hands down there to adjust it
reminds me why im not working at the garage anymore
best trick i learned was dont drop spanners with the battery connected i once set off an Airbag on SB barina
now im paranoid ill do it to my own car
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 Bizarre
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| posted on March 8th, 2009 at 08:38 PM |
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that will teach you for getting a FORD
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Joel
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| posted on March 8th, 2009 at 08:39 PM |
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i have better standards than that
hehe the only thing ford about that car is the badges
its all mazda which is probably why im always broke after buying parts for it
i replaced that rubber hose between the AFM and the throttle body on monday
$98 for a piece of rubber bloddy hose 
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Joel
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| posted on March 8th, 2009 at 08:43 PM |
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the manual says im only allowed to touch the yellow parts
take it back to ford with a full wallet for anything else
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greedy53
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| posted on March 9th, 2009 at 05:31 AM |
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geday bloks i have been watching the thread and now want to put my 50 worth in joel the pulley system you are now using is the same as mine in tthe
rod .and a fellow blower man has been running 10 bl bost with great power gains nd it makes it at 3.4 revs but stays prett ymuch the same through to 5
rpm
as you know i ued a choped fan shroud with great workings .but the tear drop american fan shroud they use a lot on buggies is vertually the same, with
a small chop you can run the 14 ,the shroud looks like a tear drop with a normal 1-2 but the 3-4 is at the end that slopes from the top of the fan
hole to the end of the shroud
my job works well if you stand at the back of the bug the rotation is clock wise with the fan rotating from top and there it feeds the right side and
as it goes further it pushes the air across to the left side . the insides stock stop the air from going direct because it has passed through the oil
cooler so it hits a baffel redirecting the air up where a vacume causes it to hed towards the 3-4 , with the cut i am using it forces the air acrocc
to 3-4 because the area above it blocked off and haveing no baaffels to stop it makes it a must to alter the baffels to 1-2
shit riters cramp
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aintgotitmusthaveit
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| posted on March 9th, 2009 at 04:00 PM |
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Hey Joel,
Just figured out what you did.
Looks like you have screwed past the clutch plate into the other pulley you found?
Off to the wreckers this weekend to see what I can source.. Fingured crossed
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Joel
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| posted on March 9th, 2009 at 07:45 PM |
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yeah thats it
altho i just realised that pic i put up was attempt #1 which failed
i ended up drilling out the rivets and adding extra bolts for strength
that setup works but im gonna redesign it yet again to use the original denso pulley but run without the clutch
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Newt
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| posted on March 15th, 2009 at 08:26 PM |
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Greedy
I noticed that you laid the blower on its side. Given there is oil in the rear section of the blower, does this lead to lubrication issues?
Cheers
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
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greedy53
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| posted on March 16th, 2009 at 06:40 AM |
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good see the blowers have blank oil point that has to be drilled out and tapped you can use the same dipstick
and than block of the old hole with a brass blank plug. i draned the oil out and measured te amount rang toyota help and was told the oil stayed the
same a.mount so far so good
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Joel
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| posted on March 27th, 2009 at 05:03 PM |
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i figured some of the followers may be interested in this
a guy from germany contacted me the other day
he has a couple of those subaru AMR blowers hes playing around with
hes got an AMR300 that he's fitting to a 1200 engine bolted up to the original manifold and a bigger AMR500 on a 1300 DP mounted similar to mine
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Joel
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| posted on March 27th, 2009 at 05:06 PM |
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there was a 68 semi auto bug for sale near here a while back that had one of those AMR300s and a 2" SU
i saw it at warwick drags last year but unfortunatley the blower is long gone off it
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mymedusa
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| posted on May 7th, 2009 at 05:35 AM |
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hi joel,..funny to find that at a google search...
first the AMR300 is on a 36HP engine driven 3:1 ..the engine has some modifications but same stuff like stock engine just improved the most parts + a
cam grinded to porsche preA dimensions.
29,6mm inlet valves 28 outlet valves.
the engine runs but at the moment way to lean. but it pushes 0,9 bar =13 psi.
the engine has water/methanol injection what is in off position at the moment and i have no heating problems CHT goes to 125°C.
the engine goes like hell and i think it has something between 60-70 DIN PS. if the A/F ratio is perfekt i will go on a dynotest. at the moment the
clutch can't hold the power.
here some videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/mymedusa
the second engine is a 1200 engine with 1300 double port heads 35,5/32 valves, tsc 10 cam and and and...but engine is not build ready because i wait
since 3rd january 09 of my parts wich sould be machined  the engine has
also free programmable injection and ignition, watercooled intercooler...and some special stuff
it has time and i think i will change alot on the engine during the next months because my goal now is 150 PS out of that tiny engine
this is the 36HP engine but some small changes in optics will follow
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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| posted on May 7th, 2009 at 05:56 PM |
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I just finished reading this whole post and I have to say that you have done a brilliant job Joel. I'm really inspired to put a blower on my Baja
now. The torque would be such and asset offroad.
Roughly how much would this cost to do if I had an engine and just needed to get the blower, carb, make an inlet manifold and all the little things?
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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cb john
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| posted on May 7th, 2009 at 07:33 PM |
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The last kit I've built came to $ 1800...you certainly can get it cheaper by scavenging the junkyards....but if you can do some work yourself it gets
yet cheaper...
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Joel
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| posted on May 7th, 2009 at 08:25 PM |
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hey Kris good to see you found the place
coming along nicely
talk about a small world
smileyman that posted below you owns the maroon bug with amr300 that i posted
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Joel
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| posted on May 7th, 2009 at 08:32 PM |
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smiley, theres lots of varibles
blower cost being the big one
going rate for an SC12 these days if u can find one is $300-400
i was well stocked on them for a while but slowly started getting rid of them, Steve Carter got my last spare
but heres a rough list of the main things u'll need
blower
Carb and air cleaner
pulleys
belt
tenisioner
mounting brackets
manifold pipeing and rubber joiners
electric fuel pump
throttle cable
lots of fuel and vacum hose
BOV
etc etc etc
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mymedusa
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| posted on May 8th, 2009 at 04:45 AM |
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joel is right ...the blower is just a part.
my small amr300 coast 200 australian dollar and shipping to me 150$ ..funny right?
my beltdrive i had bought from a std gear builder in germany they do gears and all this stuff. maedler.de coast about 150 $ after machining them to my
dimensions + belt
the rest i did by my own. the carb i use is a new 34 pci from bmw700....because my engine is vintage speed...have to look like in the 50's
so my big parts without shipping
200
150
150=500 $
same price coast the water methanol injektion that i installed
and i think 100-150$ for smal parts ...pipes, metal, welding stuff, sealing , throttle cable, bolts....
so if you can do alot at your own you can hold the money low...i think my coasts could be less but i had a strictly clean plan in vintage stuff.
but now i have 13 psi of boost on a early 36hp engine ...judson, mag and pepco superchargers from the 50's and 60's goes up to 7 psi and coast 3-5
times of my build.
one special thing i use is a changed original 36HP distributor with under pressure tin from a saab9000 turbo.
this tin can not only hold pressure this tin also has a adjusting in late at boost...but i don't have testet it out how good it works....next step is
adjusting A/F ratio and ignition timing |
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fast68
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| posted on May 7th, 2012 at 04:47 PM |
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Any one got any new updates with there projects??
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ian.mezz
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| posted on May 7th, 2012 at 06:33 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by fast68
Any one got any new updates with there projects??
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more here
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=68443
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Joel
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| posted on May 7th, 2012 at 08:53 PM |
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Ha, back from the dead after 3 years.
My blower's still hiding out in the shed with my VW engines, been half arsedly looking for an engineless bug to put it in.
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aintgotitmusthaveit
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| posted on May 7th, 2012 at 10:38 PM |
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MInes been going strong for over a year now. Summer proved I needed an oil cooler- not much air coming in thru the 356 deck lid
I'm actually building up a kit for a mate of mines buggy
Doing it a bit different- building it cheap!
I let you all know once it's in- its a stock 1600dp
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fast68
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| posted on May 8th, 2012 at 06:20 AM |
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some pic,s would be great, just picked up a sc12 the other day got most of the bits to build a nice 1914, but would like some Opinion's on cams.
currently looking at a web 86, fk-41 and clay smith cs-65 with some pauter 1.3 i have.
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Joel
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| posted on May 8th, 2012 at 12:49 PM |
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Gotta be careful with cam choice, you don't want too much overlap.
My 1776 has a Tighe416C cam which is pretty well same specs as an Engle 110 and with the 2 twin throat webers Idled as smooth as an old 1200 but the
blower was choppy as hell till it got over 1200rpm
The 1600 with the stock cam didn't have this problem at all, idled like a stocker thanks to the wonders of the stock cams pissy duration.
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fast68
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| posted on May 8th, 2012 at 02:52 PM |
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The cams i have listed all have less duration than the one you had in your 1776. Tryed to look for under 240@0.050", but unsure on the lift? toss up
between the Web and the claysmith maybe?
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jamiesc
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| posted on May 10th, 2012 at 11:25 PM |
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hey joal would you be interested in selling your whole blower setup or know anyone that has one laying around mate?
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Smiley
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| posted on May 11th, 2012 at 04:29 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by jamiesc
hey joal would you be interested in selling your whole blower setup or know anyone that has one laying around mate?
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But he's going to fit it to his Subie engine 
Smiley 
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
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jamiesc
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| posted on May 11th, 2012 at 06:08 PM |
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haha yeah just incase he changes his mind.
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Joel
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| posted on May 11th, 2012 at 07:08 PM |
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Yeah sorry Jamie, I'm hanging on to it, they are too hard to get hold of.
Keep an eye on ebay, they do come up periodically.
A turbo is probably a more realistic option these days.
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tweety
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| posted on May 11th, 2012 at 07:50 PM |
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Yes, have already asked Joel if his SC12 is for sale....nope!!
But I have found one and its being freighted as we speak.
Should go well on top of the Ea81 in tweety. Draw through set up. Want to seek out a 2" SU carbie. My SC12 has a clutch pulley.
My ea81 has a 150mm double crank pulley v-belt. I want to utilise this pulley for the SC. Apparently a v-belt is ok as it will give and slip a little
if required. Will see if I can mounth the SC with it rotating for v-belt adjustment rather than a flat pulley on the back of the v-belt.
Should be interesting. Read as much as I can on the web. Looking at 5-8psi. my calculations resulted in me needing a 150-130mm SC pulley for max revs
of 5000 on 1781cc. On/off switch for towing yeh!
A SC on top of the engine might just look ok!
and if I hear one more time "should have gone EJ" or "might as well have bought a car" I'll scream!!!! am still happy I went EA. after all
its a cult engine now guys!!
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Joel
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| posted on May 11th, 2012 at 10:35 PM |
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You can't use the clutch in a drawthrough carbed setup, blower has to be running all the time.
The blower clutch is for the fuel injected toyota setup where the computer compensates for the blower not running and has a bypass valve around the
blower.
In a carbed setup the ignition timing is limited for boost so to disengage the blower you would have to run more advance as its no longer boosted.
I had a couple of instances where the belt came off or the clutch lost power and it will run but not happily due to limited timing and no boost.
Besides it's not achieving anything in a draw through setup, the blower is only doing anything when you nail it, the rest of the time when the engine
is not under a load the blower is just free wheeling with the manifold vacuum.
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