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Author: Subject:  BajaChris's Adventures. CB turbo manifold arrived. CT26 mock up
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posted on September 19th, 2011 at 04:59 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by bajachris88
Daniel, you will be proud! Yesterday as a 'run of the mill' activity my mate and I and his bro in his hilux went to whats called the 'pine-o' in logan village. everyone goes there for these crazy 4wd tracks and water crossings through pine forests, its council property and they do dish fines for tresspassing lol, but you got to be unlucky to get busted. AMAZING!!! the kombi 3 rib box was outstanding. All i had to do was just feather teh brake up hills and down hills, no need for clutch riding or accelerating, the frog just crawled all over it! and the angle of approach is rediculous! i have never experienced this lol. the deep water crossings didn't allow me to go any further, until i do a bit more water proofing lol. Had as much ground clearance as the lux too :lol: the under carriage didn't even get kissed by the ruts. OH how i'm in love now :tu:

just gotta get the water proofing sorted :lol:


hahahahaha. good to hear you're out enjoying it. And using it for what it was built for!!
How is the ride and the suspension travel? If you drive one front wheel onto a mount does it flex out nicely?

and lol at the waterproofing. Once you do that the only problem you have is that car floating away (I can vouch for this :!: :!:)

And +1 on covering that battery!!! Even an old rubber floor mat will do for the short term. And make sure you strap or down really well, things have a tendency to work loose when you're rattling around offroad.

Also, pics or it didn't happen!!!!



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posted on September 20th, 2011 at 07:30 AM



Great job ..... the really good thing by taking the car back to metal is knowing what you have got ....trust me ...I have taken 10 layers of paint and ten layers of bog off my Safari ......I keep thinking ..the journey ... the journey ... the journey ...keep it up !



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posted on September 20th, 2011 at 10:00 AM



Camera batteries are on charge to see what you think about this broken tappet. At the moment, fuel economy is my issue at the moment. I took the bug from wolffdene to the spit, then to broadbeach and back up to wolfdene, was approx 102km's (from whereis.com.au). It cost me $30 in petrol. Anyways, it ended up being 20.3 litres / 100km's (11.59 mpg) REDICULOUS! surfed the web and found a pontiac GT v8 owner complaining about this kind of fuel economy.

For warwick (for me, 159ish km's) it would equate to about $44 of fuel one way. this is a rough figure, as it doesn't take into account street economy and highway economy.

I always remembered people saying these things ran on the smell of an oily rag lol. either that was for the 1100cc engine, or i got some serious tuning correction to sort out. What kind of fuel economy are you guys getting? I do notice that with the 3 rib gearbox i'm always looking for a 5th gear that just isn't there when screaming up and down the 100/110 kph highways. Could the loss of power from the cannon exhaust (making me have to put my foot down more perhaps??) be the issue? Carb turning could use a second opinion, i should drop it into southside vw. we'll see anyways.

Daniel i got some pics on another camera at a mates place of the spit trip yesterday :). the thing went great through the soft sand! Asian tourists were waving, smiling like crazy and video recording lol. A camry full of indians just up the road from the asians stopped inteh middle of the road and all smiled and waved checking it out haha. All the little kids love it too :). Still waitiing for the cops to suss it out yet haha.

Thanks Greg :tu:. yea your right, its hard work but its the right way. I have always had this problem with bandaid fixes biting me back lol. I bet those safari's would turn heads like no tomorrow down the gold coast :).

So when are we all going on a cruise? lol




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posted on September 20th, 2011 at 02:07 PM



Well done on resto chris ,great read and hope to see you at warwick.cheers TC:no:



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posted on September 20th, 2011 at 06:55 PM



Thanks mate :tu: will certainly see you there :)

Today i adapted a kombi 4-1 extractor setup for the baja. Although the J tubes run under the heads rather than at teh rocker covers, the street exhaust didn't extend below the rear barwork/cage anyways. I had to adapt a muffler and make it look back inside so it didn't extend outside the rear bar, nor interfer with my mesh cage. Again, pictures to come after batteries are found/charged SIGH! lol Welded up roughly, but strong. The difference is fantastic! i can hear myself think, power is there at foot, and i rekon the pickup is a million times better. cannons suck! lol.

I also retuned the accelerator pump. it was tuned to 'fully open' on the little wheel. I wounded it back a whole third, and no longer get black smoke with bleep of the throttle, nor hesitation while driving, so it seems fairly happy there. Still, with the fuel consumption i am a little worried, there has to be a leak. theres mess all over the engine bay, i rekon its oil, but could be fuel mixed in with oil. i don't know. will inspect fuel pump for leaks and see :).

will report soon!
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posted on September 21st, 2011 at 10:41 PM



some spit pics :)

Baja took on the thick sand without a worry :). Here is some photo evidence of the 'Spit' trip last weekend. We parked on the grass, somewhere nice and hard and cool whilst we were swimming in the broadwater. A little fresh, but the sun kept us warm. bring on summer.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p86/bajachris88/bugspit.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p86/bajachris88/bugspit3.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p86/bajachris88/bugspit2.jpg




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posted on September 22nd, 2011 at 12:01 AM



It needs bigger front tyres!
And bigger rear tyres!
And a roofrack with at least 9 spotlights across it!
And more lift!
And King shocks!
And 3x3 rear arms!
And a V8!
And a...hula girl?

Maybe I should get some sleep, VWs are driving me crazy!



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posted on September 23rd, 2011 at 04:22 PM



Well the fun is all over now fellas. Didn't last long.

I could almost break down, no warwick weekend. :td:

At noon today, went to salisbury to drop into Leon's motors for some leaner, factory style main jets (compared to the crazy rich ones i had running that came with the carb) and some oil cooler seals for this bad oil leak i was having. Then went and visited Roger at southside vw for a stock emulsion tube for the 34 pict 3 to suit the leaner main. Then dropped into supercheap, got some fresh oil, an oil filter and a litre of Lucas Oil stabiliser (amazing stuff).

Got out this afternoon to get stuck in and drive her to work tomorrow, all ready for the Warwick trip. i fitted the new jet and emulsion tube then went to reseal the oil cooler after testing for leaks in the cooler unit itself. It was strange that it was leakings heaps, because the seals were near new. I refitted it and all excited. Picked up a can of degreaser to clean alll the oil mess left behind on the crank case below the cooler, and there it was, staring me in the face.

The crankcase has a friggen crack in it proporgating above cylinder number 3. F*^K! its toast. Explains why it was pissing oil out. Need a new donk now (short block anyways, long block would be nice. every ancillary on the cracked motor is new or been rebuilt.), money is scarce, will have to save up over the xmas holidays. The funs all over. :td:. Will put a pic up when i find some bloody non-flat AA's about this house.




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New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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posted on September 23rd, 2011 at 04:43 PM



Bum!

Sorry to hear that Chris.
Keep your chin up, there is always another day.




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posted on September 23rd, 2011 at 09:52 PM



oh bugger



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posted on September 23rd, 2011 at 10:03 PM



Major bummer dude. :td:



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posted on September 23rd, 2011 at 10:07 PM



put a pic up of the crack .....maybe a rightangle washer patch set-up with some magic glue is appropriate and u hve temporary transport....till u hve the $$
yepp done it b4 on nr 3 cyl!




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info.gif posted on September 24th, 2011 at 12:04 AM



Hi Chris

bad luck with Warwick and Your engine...

You can try to fix the crack so You can at least keep driving it.

Firstly the metal Must be perfectly clean...

along with inside the crack... for the metal filler to take hold..

either the two part cement that You nead with Your hands and then fill the crack and over lap as much as You can...

push into place with Your fingers...

the cement goes off fairly fast...

I have used it with success ... perfectly clean metal .. is the key....

cheers

Lee




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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 11:42 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
Hi Chris

bad luck with Warwick and Your engine...

You can try to fix the crack so You can at least keep driving it.

Firstly the metal Must be perfectly clean...

along with inside the crack... for the metal filler to take hold..

either the two part cement that You nead with Your hands and then fill the crack and over lap as much as You can...

push into place with Your fingers...

the cement goes off fairly fast...

I have used it with success ... perfectly clean metal .. is the key....

cheers

Lee



I agree with Lee. You can at least try to fix it in the short term so you can drive it until you organise another engine.


If you look at page 18, about half way down, of my build thread you can see the repair process I went through to fix my block when I ripped the chunk out of it.

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=80275&page=18 


You need to get the block super super clean, I'd use brake cleaner or another alcohol based cleaner, because it evaporates away afterward.

Because you haven't broken a piece out of the block you might not need to use a metal repair putty, just some form of sealer or silastic to seal the crack and stop it leaking. I'm not sure what product to use.
But when Wayne Penrose was building his Oval a while back and added a 5th head stud to the block he coated the areas he had welded in white sikaflex 252 to help stop any oil leaks that could develop. On page 16 about half way down, http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=36521&page=16 


You had better not give up now Chris!!! Not after all the effort you've put into the car over these last few years!!
You car had better be at Warwick. It's just one small problem, hook in, get keen and fix it!! That's what I do.

You have one week till Warwick, pull that engine and fix it, and we'll all see you there!



Smiley :)




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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 11:46 AM



I agree with Smiley, you have come this far, don't give up now!

Do as much as you can to get it ready for Warwick, and then after, save for a new engine case and what not.

Just remember, don't give up!




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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 12:19 PM



Thanks for the support guys, i really appreciate it.

I went to dan murphys and had a couple stiff drinks, felt a bit better. My concerns is whether that point in the case is a structural issue, and what the chances are of it becoming a problem when i'm 2 hrs away from home at warwick. (if the crack gets worse etc, i can't afford a 2 hr tow to get home).

If i did repair it, I would drill out the crack to remove the stress concentration and relieve the elastic zone of the tension (haha, did crack propagation mechanics this semester at uni, just my luck my life has forced me into applying the stupid theory).

I have good news, well it might be. My mate's brother whom i'm seeing this afternoon has a 1600tp donk in his shed. It was working, was removed, and has been sitting for a few yrs in dry storage. I might get lucky and get away without having to pay much, if at all. Will see if i can trade parts or something, i don't know what i got that might interest him but. we'll see. Or he might be happy for me to do a payment plan. Time will tell.

I can't throw away this project, but i might be delayed in using it.

What do you guys think of the longevity of just a patch job? Does anyone know if thats a serious structure point on the case? Would a whack of silicone suffice?

Thanks all for your condolences, folks rekon its character building, i rekon its BS lol.




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69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. :tu:
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 01:09 PM



Heres some photos of the crack. Small enough to make a darn huge mess and drop the oil like its going out of fashion. Engine bay is all lubed because of it.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p86/bajachris88/P1060386.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p86/bajachris88/P1060385.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p86/bajachris88/P1060384.jpg

Will keep yas updated.
Chris.




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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 01:23 PM



IMO a patch job isn't a very long living option but the point is it's only an oil leak, keep it topped up and it will get you home. Good advice above, so go for it dude. The case is all structural, that's why it carcked, that and a few billion heat cycles with vibration and a probably a few overheats thrown in. But the right sealant to seap into the crack is wht you need. Iwas going to say, don't go using that theory stuff you learnt at uni, this is real world dude, think about it, keeping oil in is the priority and drilling holes won't help that BUT, if you can stop the crack from increasing, the repair will last far longer, so if the location allows, maybe you could use your theory, nd drill the end of the crack and tap a thread as a plug to seal the hole.......just an idea.

On a professional level, I always recommend replacing the case. As we all know, never a cheap option.




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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 02:10 PM



yep a few more stiff drinks n grab some saw dust, bananas, zip ties, gaffer tape, chewy (raspberry flavor works best cause of the colour) sikafex 255 and a handful of self raising flour will get the hole plugged ;)
n if not the old 2 raw eggs will sort it when you warm up the donk :crazy:




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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 02:37 PM



or just dry sump it
drain the oil he he


i have 1500 case and most there cept J pipes and muffler

u can build a fresh'n althouh this ran
come an get it




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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 05:22 PM



I saw my mates brother about his spare 1600tp donk...

Turns out that after many years of this dubs and motor sitting, after he saw my car and we hit the dirt, i have motivated him to get back into the project. So he wants to keep it lol. Good in one way i guess....

Hmm. Matt i spose its like how longs a piece of string, but if i were to patch fix it (without drilling) whats the chance of it lasting say 4 to 6 months? I guess i would have to baby it and not go offroad for the time being?

bushed you have u2u. :tu:

Chris.




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info.gif posted on September 24th, 2011 at 05:29 PM



there is a chance it would last a long time Chris

as there isn't any oil pressure there unless its an oil passage..

but it looks like You have a free engine...

cheers

LEE




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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 05:35 PM



Mate, no idea from the pic realy. Looks not so good. I posted before your pics were up, so hadn't seen it, but if its that line along the edge that turns down at the front, it's a wopper. Are you sure it's a crack and not casting flash? Every cracked case I've seen has been hairline damn near impossible to see type of crack. Untill you highlight it with dye or whatever.



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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 05:39 PM



THanks Lee :tu:

Theres still hope lol.




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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 06:00 PM



I would just drive it to Warwick. The best investment would be an RACQ premium membership. They will have to tow you home. Yeah? I had a friend have his car towed from Sydney to Melbourne, and he was even put up for a night in a hotel, and given a flight home.



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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 06:11 PM



Chris as mat has said if that is the crack along the corner it is huge . But if not then a repair is very possible and could last you a year plus , even offroading .
Just thinking , did it have this crack/ bad leak previose to your offroad adventure the other day and if not i'dd be guessing you may have dunked the motor in a waterhole while hot which may have caused the crack .
My advise at this point would be to give it a good degreasing in that area and then start it up to find the precise leak point and post more pics here if you want but with an arrow or so to show us the spot , then if it is possible to repair then lets look at the options .
I will home all day tomorrow if you want to bring it over here for an opinion .
And lastly , i am taking a car trailer to Warwick and come the end of the weekend i can hopefully drive my rat home so you would have the option of trailering your car home if nessasery .
Call me if ya wanna come over tomorrow for details

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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 06:14 PM



woah! that could be good lol. I'll contimplate because thats another option too. I'm going to have to have a long think. still a week till Warwick, we'll see what happens.

i degreased teh crack and ran the motor, definitely oil seepage from that crack you saw Matt as per your description. Its big at the top, but goes fine inside and becomes that hairline, but long enough to make a mess.




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69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. :tu:
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 06:17 PM



OH! yea to confirm crack is the one just above the tinwear, below the cooler to the right of the photo, away from the end of the case. at the corner just below the lip. i will highlight it when i get back home later. i think you guys have spotted it by your description anyways. :tu;



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69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. :tu:
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 06:19 PM



I dropped a sump full of oil after spitting the welsh plug behind the flywheel because of a huge crack once.
So i drilled a small hole at the end of the crack, ground it out a bit and applied epoxy metal mend,
worked a treat and lasted years;)




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posted on September 24th, 2011 at 06:19 PM



Thanks Andrew, very kind of ya :tu: I'm working tomozza, but will again think and ponder and get back to you.
I appreciate the offer.

This is one think i like about the vw community, mateship and helping each other. Don't get this in the ricer community.




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69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. :tu:
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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